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Fumoto drain valve


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Here is Fumoto info.

https://www.fumotousa.com/?target=level_front_page
Looks like lower drain is 18mm and side drain is 22mm.

F94FA1B0-C853-45FD-93FF-ADD96ED2A108.thumb.png.44274870d12610b76e28644346d29867.png

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The Fumoto, or any drain valve that isn't protected from road debris, scare me.  I had one event where the ruts were deep (surprised the stairs and gen pipe made it out alive).  The thought of unknowingly losing engine oil . . . .

But the ValvoMax and Stahlbus look a little more robust (no valve to knock off) and still offer a clean oil change.  Just a thought. 

https://www.amazon.com/ValvoMax-Oil-Drain-Valve-M18-1-50/dp/B077ZJYTFF/

- bob

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3 hours ago, cbr046 said:

The Fumoto, or any drain valve that isn't protected from road debris, scare me.  I had one event where the ruts were deep (surprised the stairs and gen pipe made it out alive).  The thought of unknowingly losing engine oil . . . .

But the ValvoMax and Stahlbus look a little more robust (no valve to knock off) and still offer a clean oil change.  Just a thought. 

https://www.amazon.com/ValvoMax-Oil-Drain-Valve-M18-1-50/dp/B077ZJYTFF/

- bob

I like the Fumoto valves, but on low clearance cars where it's an issue, I've used this type with success.
They used to be sold under the FRAM name, and were a LOT less expensive then.

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Quick drains are great! Really handy..... but since I do my own oil changes and they seem to be once a year event, I'm staying with the good old fashion 'plug'. 

Mine has a built-in magnet, quickest, best way to know if there is a problem in your engine.  Easier than cutting the filter open and faster than waiting for an oil sample result.

If you are not doing your own oil changes, WHY would you make it easier for someone else??  And risk it's failure (in many ways.. already mentioned here)???

Ken

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Ken,

It also prevents wear on the pan threads, and prevents some grease monkey from overtightening the plug and pulling the threads out completely.

In over 3 decades of using these valves, I've NEVER had a problem with one of them.

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I too have used them for years without issue. Just looking for the correct fit.  Trying to figure out just how similar this ISB is to the ones I have had in pickups. 

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According to info I have found your lower drain is M18x1.5 and your upper side is M22x1.5.

Lower:

5.9L CPL2071, 8.3L 
Most ISB , ISC , ISL , 6B , 6C, QSL, ISLG, ISQ, B&C Series, 4BT3.9, 6BT5.9, 8.3L, QSC, 355
Pre 1995 , Dodge 5.9L Diesel 2003-2006 Dodge 5.9L Diesel Dodge 6.7L Diesel, QSB (bottom)

M18X1.5

Upper:

Some, ISB , ISC , ISL , 6B , 6C, QSL
Other 6.7L Diesel, 3.3L , 4.5L ,QSB (side)

M22X1.5

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What is the upper side drain for, draining off a possible overfill? I don’t recall seeing two on my 8.3

Edited by tmw188
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17 hours ago, dl_racing427 said:

Ken,

It also prevents wear on the pan threads, and prevents some grease monkey from overtightening the plug and pulling the threads out completely.

In over 3 decades of using these valves, I've NEVER had a problem with one of them.

David,

Oh I like quick drains... I just do not see the ROI in this application.

Based on the fact that I change my own oil, the 'grease monkey' is not using an impact gun to remove or install the plug, the threads are not going to wear out or get stripped or cross threaded. (One trip to Jiffy Lube wiped out the threads of a pan that I had done the oil changes on for 180k miles back when we changed oil every 3k miles so I know that pain is real).

I also safety wire my drain plug.... guess I am OCD.

Ken

 

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My reason to install is to be able to stop the flow when draining, doing my own oil change. I have a couple different drain pans but neither will hold all 17ish quarts. 

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I agree with Bob regarding using Stahlbus. I have installed on on my GM gas engine and it works very well, no mess. 
Now to find a solution to the mess an oil filter makes ….

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