No 120v Power and no Charger on Trace Model RV2012M

[Dr4Film]

9 hours ago, thompson_skip said:

I have found the domestic solenoids in the engine compartment on the right side of the engine as you look into the compartment. I will get someone to help me tomorrow and see if I can check the solenoids.  I am not sure where to find the distribution panel?  When I was working on cleaning the battery cables I attempted to remove the red wires the of the part pictured, whatever it is, came apart. It is corroded and fell apart. Any idea what it is what it does?  It has a spring loaded plate in the bottom that the screws must have touched.  I’m wondering if I can just attach the wires together and eliminate the destroyed plastic part.  If not any idea where to go a replacement part. Nice Cheyenne, Wy sunset 😎😎. Thanks so much for your help!!!

That photo above looks similar to a BEP Battery Disconnect Switch. The BEP switches are well known RV fire hazard and have been documented here MANY times over as a warning to owners to remove them or risk complete loss of the coach due to a fire. Possibly this is an earlier version of one.

I have attached photos of a failed BEP switch below. They should be replaced with a Blues Seas, Guest or Perko battery disconnect switch.

[Tom Cherry]

Richard has a good point about the switches.  However, not even being a Dynasty owner, I know from talking to several, very knowledgeable, that their electrical system does not use the higher current ANL Fuses and the Battery Buss or distribution point is protected with many CB.  The design in the picture is a typical, self resetting….presumably after the short of high resistance is corrected.  I have used them in several non MH applications such as heavy duty current in truck winches. This one took a direct hit,  one does not see them implode.  Typically they get flaky.  
 

This issue my be getting past ordinary electrical trouble shooting.  The battery buss panel where this one was probably located needs inspection.  The cable path downstream of it needs interiors.  This ain’t your ordinary short….

 

1 hour ago, wamcneil said:

This thread describes the 80a klixon circuit breaker located in the battery compartment

Most of the house loads don't go through that breaker. The normal house loads all go through the high current run bay on the right side of the engine compartment.

Thanks for posting and also for providing a great explanation as well as the sizing of the resettable CB.  Any quality brand of 80 A resettable CB will work,  This is something that NAPA or even Northern Tool sells or probably an exact replacement on Amazon.

We’re making progress…

 

[wamcneil]

12 hours ago, thompson_skip said:

I have found the domestic solenoids in the engine compartment on the right side of the engine as you look into the compartment. I will get someone to help me tomorrow and see if I can check the solenoids.  

Look at page 131 of the wiring diagrams 'Low Voltage - High Current'. 12v positive goes from the battery, through the battery switch and then back to the high current box on the right in the engine compartment. The first connection is to the large battery isolator. If you've got 12v on the house terminal of the battery isolator you should be able to verify 12v all the way through that box. You should have two large solenoids on the lower right side of the box that are for house loads (via salesman switch), and should be able to verify 12v on the output of those two solenoids.

Unless the battery negative terminal is disconnected from the chassis...

I'm still thinking you might have missed the ground wire from the inverter to the chassis ground when you installed the inverter. If that ground wire was missed, then ground is disconnected for all your house loads. The inverter would still work, but that ground wire is the only path for house loads to get to the battery negative terminal. Having the house ground disconnected would look a whole like not having 12v to the house. And if that ground is disconnected you won't have 12v between the house battery positive terminal and the chassis.

Edited July 21, 2022 by wamcneil

[thompson_skip]

1 hour ago, wamcneil said:

Look at page 131 of the wiring diagrams 'Low Voltage - High Current'. 12v positive goes from the battery, through the battery switch and then back to the high current box on the right in the engine compartment. The first connection is to the large battery isolator. If you've got 12v on the house terminal of the battery isolator you should be able to verify 12v all the way through that box. You should have two large solenoids on the lower right side of the box that are for house loads (via salesman switch), and should be able to verify 12v on the output of those two solenoids.

Unless the battery negative terminal is disconnected from the chassis...

I'm still thinking you might have missed the ground wire from the inverter to the chassis ground when you installed the inverter. If that ground wire was missed, then ground is disconnected for all your house loads. The inverter would still work, but that ground wire is the only path for house loads to get to the battery negative terminal. Having the house ground disconnected would look a whole like not having 12v to the house. And if that ground is disconnected you won't have 12v between the house battery positive terminal and the chassis.

I just removed the Red, black, and green cable’s coming to the inverter and reinstalled them to the rebuild inverter so did think the ground cable could be disconnected. 

[thompson_skip]

On 7/20/2022 at 11:03 AM, Tom Cherry said:

First, hope you have the above or even BETTER....the Manual.  Look at pages 124, 125 and 126 of the "FILES".  That will be pages 131, 132 and 133 of the PDF as the index at the front adds pages.

You have, and the prints are slightly hard to read, even blown up, one or two leads from the "Domestic Solenoids.  The first one Page 124 (PDF 131) shows the master layout of all the 12 VDC...a BIG SUCKER.  Then the next page, 125 (PDF 132) has the HVAC wiring and the main distribution panel. If you are NOT getting power there, then the issue has to be "faulty" Domestic Solenoid....there are TWO.  Did you replace BOTH or ON...?  This page has the HVAC wiring and we "know" that Monaco ran the Thermostat feed from the main 12 VDC distribution panel...and the print shows that...

Look at Page 125 (PDF 133). Two Solenoids, I assume are there. If you look on the INCOMING side of the Solenoids, both go to the Battery Buss (my term).  You need to find where all the high current fuses are located. I can NOT tell from the drawing if there are high current (ANL Type) which have a visible "element" or if you have, like the newer Dynasties do, Circuit Breakers (I believe resettable). 

My advice....Check BOTH Solenoids to see if you have 12 VDC on one side....Personally, I don't see the need for them as they are the idiotic Salesman's Switches. They can be bypassed for a total of $15 from NAPA...  781144 - 2 needed...one for each solenoid. 

You have to find the incoming power for them....and it looks like you have an upstream issue....or if you ain't got power on the incoming of the Domestic Solenoids...you ain't gonna have it down stream.

That is as much as I can do from the prints....and my limited knowledge of the early Dynasty configurations.

Good LucK 

Tom I found the two solenoids in the rear distribution box.  Only one of the clicked when my wife turned the salesman switch off and on.  They both were quite hot to the touch.  The one that clicked doesn't have any voltage across the terminals, the other one has 12 v across the terminals.  I'm thinking of getting the napa 781144 battery cables and bypass the solenoids.  I assume I attached them to the two main terminals, is that correct?  Thanks so much for you help!

[Tom Cherry]

29 minutes ago, thompson_skip said:

Tom I found the two solenoids in the rear distribution box.  Only one of the clicked when my wife turned the salesman switch off and on.  They both were quite hot to the touch.  The one that clicked doesn't have any voltage across the terminals, the other one has 12 v across the terminals.  I'm thinking of getting the napa 781144 battery cables and bypass the solenoids.  I assume I attached them to the two main terminals, is that correct?  Thanks so much for you help!

YES and NO. 

Number ONE....the Solenoids WILL be hot to the touch. There is current going through the coils and the contacts are passing upwards of 100 or more amps.  Thus the HEAT. 

Number TWO....which one did NOT work?  I am a little "Fuzzy" as I said and without pouring for hours in the prints, I can't tell you that they BOTH are working off one control.  BUT...if one clicks and the other doesn't....then it is a safe bet....from all our experience, that one is BAD.  Spend a few hundred OR, say GOODBYE to the Domestic Solenoids. You need TWO jumpers and you just JUMPER the studs. I suggest that you have your wife TURN OFF the switch....and eventually they will cool down. NOW, you remove (mark or take a picture) the two smaller wires...probably TWO or maybe THREE.  That then "depowers" the solenoids.  These are NOT on/off Solenoids....they LATCH IN.  SO, you want the armature UNLATCHED.  Otherwise....REMOVE THEM.  I pulled mine out and just wired it direct. But for you, the safer thing is to KILL or TURN OFF the Switch....let them COOL DOWN....Bypass.

NOW....You MUST fix whatever is wrong.  The FIRST step is to replace the Zapped Circuit Breaker and then reestablish the circuit. You do NOT, nor can you get POWER to the one that is powering the Domestic Fuse Panel without doing that.... OR, if it works, then you need to figure out WHERE the zapped one goes and which circuits....it is NOT GOOD. 

That was you ORIGINAL ISSUE...other than the AC. You must make sure that you have restored, with the proper CB rating, the circuit. NOW, if there is a dead short downstream....odds are the CB is gonna POP again. Without knowing WHY it blew up....then your only option is to repair and test....it is commonly called the SMOKE test. Odds are....something has been overcooking that CB over the years....or it took a tremendous current hit....something that I don't understand.

Hope this makes SENSE...

Turn OFF the SOLENOIDS.  Remove the smaller control wiring leads (2 or 3). Install the Jumpers on each one....just overlap the studs....some folks have enough cable to move one to the other side....the Jumper works fine.

THEN...put in the NEW CB and connect everything back up. You SHOULD have power to the lights...and all the fuses in the Domestic Fuse Panel.  If you DON'T or if the CB trips OUT.....I suggest that you get someone with some electrical experience and have them start to troubleshoot the circuit...

Good Luck...Let us KNOW> 

[thompson_skip]

Well thank the Lord I replaced the two battery cutoff solenoids, there are both controlled by the single cutoff switch and I now have 12v so back to normal. One other question, I have always just left the battery it off switch on, is that wise or should I shut it off when we are not using the coach. AGAIN THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR ASSISTANCE,  I COULDN'T HAVE FIGURED IT OUT WITHOUT YOUR HELP!!!

[Tom Cherry]

4 hours ago, thompson_skip said:

Well thank the Lord I replaced the two battery cutoff solenoids, there are both controlled by the single cutoff switch and I now have 12v so back to normal. One other question, I have always just left the battery it off switch on, is that wise or should I shut it off when we are not using the coach. AGAIN THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR ASSISTANCE,  I COULDN'T HAVE FIGURED IT OUT WITHOUT YOUR HELP!!!

They are for your “chassis” or gage and other items that are “needed” when the ignition is on and engine running.  Continue to do as you would…no engine needed….no runnee…

You are most welcome.  Glad I could help.  Learned about those solenoids from helping another person. Good for you.