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Shifting Slide Out Gaskets


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Slide out gaskets are shifting after taking several trips.  See pic below.  Only seems to happen at the top of only two slides outs.  I have replaced these with new gaskets, cleaned the frame of any previous adhesive, and I still get the shifting after several trips.

I have to believe someone has had this issue and figured out a way to keep the gaskets in place.  Suggestions and experience welcome.

Slide Out Gasket.jpg

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Not sure from the photo if these are friction fit double bulb seals or a different design. Assuming you are properly cleaning and preparing your seals with 303 or silicone seal 3M spray, if the seals are still rolling off it may be that the slides need adjusting. That is the slide may be too tight on one side or too loose a fit on the other. Earlier this year I had my slides adjusted at Talin RV. It is my understanding over time, with travel and moving the slides in and out, the slides, which are a box in an opening held in place mainly by fit and weight, will shift and need to be re-aligned. While this might be a DIY for some, I would not attempt it without experience and knowledge.

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Did your coach always have that ribbed vertical seal?

My '08 model has a small bulb seal around the inner perimeter of the slide facia which presses against that piece of trim when the slide is fully retracted.

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My 2005 Safari has a double bulb with wiper (friction fit) around the slide opening and a ribbed (adhesive attached) on the inside face of the slide trim. I think the gasket arrangement will vary from year to year and model to model.

 

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50 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Did your coach always have that ribbed vertical seal?

 I am the third owner and just bought it last September. So I can’t say if that was original but those were the type of gaskets that were on there when I bought it. I went online and found ones that look exactly the same and replaced all of them around the couch. All of the seals were worse when I bought it. This is the only issue I have left With the slide out seal/gaskets.

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35 minutes ago, 1nolaguy said:

My 2005 Safari has a double bulb with wiper (friction fit) around the slide opening and a ribbed (adhesive attached) on the inside face of the slide trim. I think the gasket arrangement will vary from year to year and model to model.

 

I guess!

Like I mentioned, mine has nothing on that black trim strip, then when I bring the slide in, a small bulb seal around the slide presses against it.

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1 hour ago, 96 EVO said:

a small bulb seal around the slide presses against it.

This is what I have around the slide out that closes on the ribbed seals.  
 

3 hours ago, 1nolaguy said:

if the seals are still rolling off it may be that the slides need adjusting


Maybe a tad bit off to cause this.  Slide outs function well.  Not sure I want to go to that much effort to resolve this in two small areas.   

Any thoughts about maybe using a small amount of a stronger adhesive than relying on what is already on the back of the seal? 

3DB4408B-C690-4154-99F8-A9A9FD018281.jpeg

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Yeah, that bulb seal you have around the slide facia, is all I have. Compresses to that black trim, and seems to work just fine keeping water and air out when the slides are closed.

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Bill R,

Those ribbed weather strip that is glued on to the black band on the coach wall is exactly what I have.   I got some weather strip adhesive from an auto parts store, spread it on the back of the ribbed strip, as well as on the black band.   It doesn't take much but be sure to cover entire back of the ribbed wx strip.  Let it cure a few minutes--you want both surfaces 'tacky' and push it together.  It's been a couple years now with no further issue.   I had the original glue with a clear thin cellophane that was on the rubbed wx strip come off and stuck to the coach.   I think I can see it as well on your first picture.  Clean that all off first.

My ribbed weather strip that goes horizontal over the slide was a little more of a challenge.  I repaired/replaced those using the same method, but I had to take the topper covers off to access them. 

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My o

09 knight has both ribbed and bulb seals. I replaced all my ribbed ones three years ago and now some are doing just like yours.

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In my opinion, the ribbed seals need a very good clean surface to adhere to. Looks to me like the slide may be moving a little while driving and causing the weaker adherence to be dragged away. We replaced our seals about 2 years ago and are looking at re doing these. Surface prep with denatured alcohol and, where needed, with acetone is important.

Getting the correct alignment is important and next time I will use masking tape to mark the slide outer edge before applying new rubber seals.

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Looking at both pictures it appears that Bill R ( OP ) has ribbed seals on the coach wall and on the slide. That would have a seal facing a seal, doesn't seem right to me.  I'm pretty sure when the coach is in motion the slides move around some so a ribbed seal facing a ribbed seal can lock together and means something has to give. 

My coach has ribbed seals on the coach side only.  I have had them come loose in places over the years and I replaced them with what looks like thae same seal from Lowes.  I have wondered if those from Lowes may not have a good enough adhesive. 

I like the idea of a bulb seal, I think those may be better suited for that area.  I have seen bulb seals that are approx an inch and also much smaller very flexable seals like on my bay openings,  Anyone have a picture or link ?

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2 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

Looking at both pictures it appears that Bill R ( OP ) has ribbed seals on the coach wall and on the slide. That would have a seal facing a seal, doesn't seem right to me.  I'm pretty sure when the coach is in motion the slides move around some so a ribbed seal facing a ribbed seal can lock together and means something has to give. 

My coach has ribbed seals on the coach side only.  I have had them come loose in places over the years and I replaced them with what looks like thae same seal from Lowes.  I have wondered if those from Lowes may not have a good enough adhesive. 

I like the idea of a bulb seal, I think those may be better suited for that area.  I have seen bulb seals that are approx an inch and also much smaller very flexable seals like on my bay openings,  Anyone have a picture or link ?

Ray, that second picture Bill R posted showing the seal around the perimeter of his slide facia is a bulb seal. 

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1 minute ago, 96 EVO said:

Ray, that second picture Bill R posted showing the seal around the perimeter of his slide facia is a bulb seal. 

Ok thanks Ben,  I thoight it looked rather flat and a faint hint of ribs, but I was wrong once before.  LOL  😁   Old eyes 👀

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Yeah, they have about a 2" flat back to give them some area to stick to the surface. The bulb is on the edge.

16 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

  but I was wrong once before.   

I'll bet it was your wife that discovered it 😁!

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Thank you all, glad I am not the only one with this issue.  I will attempt to clean, and then reattach with weather strip adhesive.  Will report results.  Such a great forum.

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8 minutes ago, Bill R said:

Thank you all, glad I am not the only one with this issue.  I will attempt to clean, and then reattach with weather strip adhesive.  Will report results.  Such a great forum.

I did not understand whether you meant a squirt tube or a liquid or gel or spray adhesive versus an adhesive tape. I would chose the adhesive tape based on my own experiments with the 3M VHB.  I had door gaskets peel off, original Monaco.  I purchased the 3M VHB and reattached. They are STILL there...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7EXTQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

or search Amazon for this. 3M VHB Heavy Duty Mounting Tape 4910, Clear, 1 in width x 5 yd length (1 Roll)

I was "on a trip" and found a roll of 3/4" at an office supply store. It is used for PERMANENTLY attaching name plates to doors or windows. It is only 0.04 thick.  My technique was to use WD-40 (Acetone if you are CAREFUL) and removed the adhesive from the mating surfaces....the seal and the mounting surface. Then you need to wash off the WD-40 with dishwasher detergent and rinse. I used a hair dryer to finish it off.  THEN, I used a light touch and wiped down the mating and seal surface with Acetone. The Acetone seems to activate the rubber so the tape crosslinks. I put the tape on the gasket and trimmed off the excess. Then I reapplied or put the gasket on like it was original. IT STUCK LIKE A BANDIT. 

As a note, I looked up the peel strength tests and it unbelievable. I have also patched in a few places on some other seals where the original adhesive (tape) did not seat well. TO ME, this is easier and you get a better bond. I have used weatherstripping glue and it was messy and erratic.

My Samsung Refrigerator's mounts are "double stick taped" to the top and in 25K, that refrigerator has not moved a micron. This stuff HOLDS...

 

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