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Refrigerator lock types discussion


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NOTE.  This is a previous topic that was merged into the NEW topic for Refrigerator lock types discussion.
I searched the forums and could not find information on Frdige Fixer use on Fisher Paykel French door models.
Anyone here install the Fridge Fixer on FP RF170?  As this variant is installed via adhesive strip rather than mounting with hinges on other manufacturer models. I am requesting any "first hand" information on its strength, durability & reliability w/ FP RF170.
After reviewing options for RR upgrade and checking into demision restrictions with prospective installer,  we determined best option is installing new FP RF170 in our 07 Diplomat 40 SKQ  - was only French door model/manufacturer that fit with space limitations in the slide-out (all others manufacturers are too tall).
Thanks for comments/assistance.
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6 hours ago, nyrngrz said:

I replied to your question via email but it looks like I can't just reply using email. Anyway, I have the RF170 and have been using the adhesive Fridge Fixer for at least 3 years without any problem whatsoever.




Thanks for the input.  I had a couple others state the same thing on  another site.  So I will plan on going with fridge fixer to secure the doors.



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  • 1 year later...

I saw a post on the IRV2 forum showing this refrigerator lock.  Looked like a viable option so I ordered the parts to make and install. 

The lock uses a Push Button Quick Release Hood Pin Lock.  It has to be a longer one, this was the best option I could find, there are a bunch of short ones listed on Ebay but they aren't long enough, you need the ~4" shaft due to the thickness of the doors.   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09NC7W4ZP?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Also needed a long Coupling nut, I looked at different sources and this was the best price even though I ended up getting 4 of them left.  https://www.ebay.com/itm/353793632859

From Lowes I bought a couple 1.5" diameter fender washers and a short tapered screw and I found a ~2.5" diameter floor protector.  I had some good two sided adhesive tape. 

I used two of the fender washers and the tapered screw to attach the coupling nut to the washers.  Drove the screws in with an impact driver to get it really tight.  I then took my side grinder and ground the head of the screw flush with the washer.  I put the adhesive tape on using alcohol to clean the surface but did not remove the film yet. 

I took the floor protector and drilled an 11/16" hole in the center, this was the diameter of the the push button lock, it was a tight fit, had to use a channel locks to screw the push button into the floor protector, I didn't use any glue because of the tight fit, eventually I may have to redo but for now it is tight. 

Put the long threaded pin in the coupling nut and attached the push button lock and test fitted to the fridge, I ended up cutting about 3/4" off the threaded shaft.   Once I was satisfied it was the right length I used a jam nut to lock the long shaft into the coupling nut.  I used alcohol to clean the fridge, peeled the tape film off the large washers and fit the the assembly onto the fridge positioning it so the push button lock with floor protector would hold all three doors closed.   I did paint the floor protector black.  The threaded shaft and washers seem to be pretty solid,  I gave a couple of hard jerks on the door and it all held fast.  

Here are some pictures of what I did,  Jury is still out as to how this will work and hold the doors closed,  My wife is getting ready to take a trip next week so I can report back then.  

Fridge lock 1.jpg

fridge lock 2.jpg

Fridge Lock 3.JPG

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What made you decide to use this method versus many other proven ones?

The Samsung RF-197 fridge that was installed in the Windsor back in 2012 uses a 14-inch Velcro strap to hold the French doors locked. The installer used two 3 lb. Southco RV drawer/door latches that are typically used in the 02 Windsor on each door, but I hated the way I had to tug to open and push hard to close. So, I removed those latches and went with the Velcro strap. They used a very unique locking system for the freezer drawer. It is simply a L bracket screwed to the face of the fridge where the door hinge hardware is located so it was a very safe place to drill in to. Then a small hole in the top of the freezer drawer which is also a safe bet. You simply place the pin in through the L bracket and into the hole. Locked solid.

With our Dynasty, I didn't have a choice as the Samsung RF-197 already had a locking system on the fridge when I purchased the coach. It uses two Sugatsune latches. Each main body is mounted to the face of the freezer drawer under each of the doors with the receiving latch on the underside of each French door. Works find and is a really strong positive lock.

Amazon.com: Sugatsune, Lamp HC-85/S Catches and Latches, 304 Stainless Steel, Brass, Satin : Industrial & Scientific

I have attached photos of the system in the Windsor and the Dynasty.


Samsung French Door Lock CU.JPG

Samsung Fridge Door Lock - Open.jpg

Samsung Fridge Door Lock - Closed.jpg

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  • Tom Cherry changed the title to Refrigerator lock types discussion

I did a search for one of the most popular, or at least from the comments at the 2018 Gathering about Refrigerator upgrades and locks.  It is called the Fridge Fixer.  I only found one post that mentioned it here.  So, I combined it into the recent one.

I have the Fridge Fixer lock on my Samsung.  Jim's solution looks pretty neat.  I would like to see a few more pictures as I have difficulty in totally understanding.

I also found this which was a great discussion.  


I am ASSUMING....which might be a MISTAKE that everyone knows that drilling into the door or cabinet of ANY refrigerator to install a lock is flirting with disaster.  There are coils and heating elements.  SO, the consensus of the discussion in 2018 was NO DRILL is the solution.  I put mine in around the fall of 2017.  I had already ordered the Fridge Fixer and it took maybe 30 minutes to install.  LESS had I not been the OCD engineer.  I used two small patches of  VHB 3M tape to secure the bar across the front....so that when you attached them and got them adjusted, there was a small dot of tape and then tightened the screws down.  I can tell you that after almost 15K miles.....it works like a charm.  

My "Memory Crutch" is to open the Samsung when in storage for airing and venting.  I take the "LOCK" part and put the ignition key loosely through it and put that on the steering wheel.  That way when I shut down for storage, I have to REMEMBER to close it up and then lock it.  When on the road, we keep it in a convenient place and that is one of our "Tear Down" checklist items.

Many folks, in the past, have come up with some homemade units or also used other ones.  I talked to the owner and he probably has made some improvements. 

Just passing this along....so that all the info that I found is here.  Good Topic...

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Tom, drilling into the cabinet is flirting with disaster except where there are locations where hinges are located.

One member if you remember suffered the consequences of drilling in a location into the side of the cabinet. POOF, there went all of the system coolant. He had to purchase a new fridge.

Drilling into any of the doors or drawer is a no brainer as there are no coolant lines to accidentally puncture.

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1 hour ago, Dr4Film said:


What made you decide to use this method versus many other proven ones?


I think some of the options out there are ridiculously expensive for what they are.   I'm always trying to do something different, if I can save money all the better.

I spent ~$15 not counting the extra parts that I didn't use   I'll take my chances and hope it works.  I'll post after my wife's trip. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

So my wife took a trip this weekend and the refrigerator lock did the job.   I am going to rig up a way to hang/mount the lock portion on the fridge door, just like everything else you have to remember to put the lock on for it to work, she said she almost forgot when she was leaving the dog show she was at. 

I explained how I made this in the above post, someone asked for clarification.  So here is a picture of the parts I used in order. 

Tapered screw bought from Lowes, thread to match coupling nut

2 large fender washers

30 mm long coupling nut  https://www.ebay.com/itm/353793632859

Quick release hood lock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09NC7W4ZP?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Floor protector, from Lowes, I found this on clearance

Good two sided Adhesive Tape I had some in my shop but this is available from multiple sources.





Fridge lock parts.jpg

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