Bob Keating Posted October 27, 2022 Posted October 27, 2022 Hello all, I recently installed slide plates on the drivers side living room(raised) slide. No I have rattle that is tied to road vibration. I have isolated this to a steel wheel on the front C channel guide for the slide. Apparently, the thickness of the plate was just enough to take the pressure off of this wheel, so it is free to rattle on its steel axle. Is their an adjustment that I can make to put more pressure on the wheel? The slide rides on wedge blocks, are they adjustable. Sorry, this part lives above the fuel tank, and the only way I can see it is through the filler door. their is not enough room to take a photo. Thanks in advance.
Martinvz Posted October 27, 2022 Posted October 27, 2022 If you have an endoscope you would be able to snake it thru for a photo. Just a suggestion.
Steven P Posted October 28, 2022 Posted October 28, 2022 Have you tried talking to Chris at Talin? They are always very helpful. 1
throgmartin Posted October 28, 2022 Posted October 28, 2022 Bob: Almost all rollers are adjustable. You typically access them from underneath the slide by pulling down the bottom wiper seal. Once you find the roller, pull down the seal and then you can then see the adjustment bolt staring at you. NEVER adjust a roller with the weight on the slide. Jack it up. You can and will break a roller or its axle by trying to adjust a roller with weight on it. I should mention that some rollers on the galley slide have inverted rollers. These are adjusted by removing a false bottom panel located inside one of the cabinets. Inverted rollers have the plastic or rubber roller pointing downward and it rolls on the inside floor of the coach. If you need further assistance call Bethany - 352-942-2653. Ask to speak with me and I will call you back. BTW, on many coaches those bottom panels are held on and hinged at the bottom beltline. If you look underneath of the panel you should see two screws. Remove them and the entire panel will swing up from the bottom. Most of the time these screws go through a scrap piece of aluminum and into the body panel. The other end of the scrap aluminum screws into a brace connected to the frame. I have several panels on my coach that I can swing up using this procedure. It makes getting at things behind it much easier as you have full access. Just as a side note, I have a gear pack that went on my wardrobe slide assembly. The only way to change it out is to remove the dual rear wheels to gain access to the hatch where the gear pack is hidden. Sometimes Monaco made jobs simple. They also made some jobs very difficult. 1
Bob Keating Posted October 28, 2022 Author Posted October 28, 2022 Thanks, Steven & Chris I will take another look at this today or tomorrow and post what I find. Chris, the body panels on my Cayman appear to be secured by screws. I will take a closer look at this also.
Solution Bob Keating Posted October 28, 2022 Author Solution Posted October 28, 2022 Greeting Chris and all, I figured out what the source of the noise is. The slide is coming in a bit too far and taking the load off of the rear roller. The steel roller is vibrating on its axle and against the track. The slide is a Lippert 2 x 2 hydraulic slide. My question is, how do you set the inbound stop for the hydraulic cylinders? The photo shows the adjustment system for each side.
Bob Keating Posted November 16, 2022 Author Posted November 16, 2022 There is a steel wheel on the rear (inside) track on each side of the slide. When I would retract the slide until the hydraulics let me know it was fully retracted, the slide would tilt up just enough to take pressure off of the wheel. If I bump the extend one time, the wheel then regains contact with the track (no rattle). I am sure a slide adjustment would take care of this; however, the slide is still sealed, so I will leave it alone for the time being. I my original post, I stated this noise started after the installation of Guardian Plates. I want to make it clear the issue was not caused my any defect in the plates. I love them. My guess is the slide was always out of adjustment, and the minute thickness of the plates pushed it over the edge. Thanks to everyone that replied. 1
96 EVO Posted November 16, 2022 Posted November 16, 2022 There will be another large nut on the end of your hyd cylinders, inside the U shaped mounting brackets. To get the slide to retract less, you would back those nuts off a turn or two (counterclockwise).
Tom Cherry Posted November 16, 2022 Posted November 16, 2022 4 hours ago, Bob Keating said: There is a steel wheel on the rear (inside) track on each side of the slide. When I would retract the slide until the hydraulics let me know it was fully retracted, the slide would tilt up just enough to take pressure off of the wheel. If I bump the extend one time, the wheel then regains contact with the track (no rattle). I am sure a slide adjustment would take care of this; however, the slide is still sealed, so I will leave it alone for the time being. I my original post, I stated this noise started after the installation of Guardian Plates. I want to make it clear the issue was not caused my any defect in the plates. I love them. My guess is the slide was always out of adjustment, and the minute thickness of the plates pushed it over the edge. Thanks to everyone that replied. Good and correct statement. Both my bed (Lippert motor with the…clicking) and my front, larger drop down Lippert hydraulic slide works great. I had one of Chris’ trusted folks in Elkhart tweak the drop down, but that was just to tune it up and also correct a bulging of the lower belt from a Monaco install error where the access hole or opening for the umbilical was not cut or positioned properly. That same individual walked me through, at no cost and with Chris’ help my first Guardian install. However, his advice was to check overhead for clearance. I did on that one and the later big slide. I didn’t on the bedroom wardrobe slide as there was NO ADJUSTMENT. JUST Monaco and BAL negligence. Monaco had the crown molding tight against the slide header and it “creaked” or popped. A HR dealer, under warranty removed the mating pieces and there was clearance. OPPS…Not enough for the Guardian plates. Found it out on the road. Fixed at it. Fixed finally at home. Later found damage was done to the lower right inner cable of the 8 cable “extend/retract” spider or loom. Entire whole wardrobe slide cabinetry had to come out to replace one cable. Cost of cables about 8% of total bill and the tech was highly experienced and knew instantly how much of a PITA it was gonna be. He then, also made table saw cuts and used a planer to square up the gap between the header top (slide) and interior crown molding. His reinstall is flawless….only I know. Bottom line. Look and plan first. Noise or issues, get them fixed or adjusted. Repeated use does have consequences…..and I addressed mine early, but the fraying and strain on the cable happened almost immediately. Had I not addressed it in the field, I might have been pushing and pulling that slide for our entire 3 month trip.
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