2004 Signature Factory Toad Air Brake Connection at Coach Rear-How to test?

[Lee Smith]

My coach has a factory supplied air brake connector at the rear (next to toad towbar connection).

How do I test this connector for air flow?

Here are pictures:

 

Thank you,

Lee Smith

Edited January 2, 2023 by Lee Smith
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[Ivan K]

With a 120+ PSI pressure gauge if you want to see its proportionally or just open it up to confirm that it dumps air when on the brake.

[Tom Cherry]

34 minutes ago, Lee Smith said:

My coach has a factory supplied air brake connector at the rear (next to toad towbar connection).

How do I test this connector for air flow?

Here are pictures:

 

Thank you,

Lee Smith

First, I would go to the M&G as well as the AirForceOne sites and download their install manuals.  Then look at their instructions and follow the air line from the fitting to the rear brake system.  As LONG as it is plumbed in like they say, you are good to go.  NOW, bear in mind, AirForceONE (or they did a while back) want you to install a separate device or component that gave you protection from severing a line.  I do NOT know if Monaco did that.  The M&G (which I have and I installed) did not go into that.  There were just explanations and pictures.

ALSO, if you plan on using it, I would look at the hose and how it is plumbed and run. I used a piece of 3/8" air line (cut off on each end) and used it as a protective jacket for my air brake line.  Less change of abrading and damaging....

The OTHER way is to go to a OTR truck shop and ask them to look at the plumbing.  All you want is a "T" in the line from proper spot on either or the rear brake cannisters.  Testing it would be complicated....BUT, you could.  Hook up an air hose and run it through the hatch in the rear bedroom area and put a gauge on it and drive and have them call out pressures.

Why you would want to know that if it is plumbed according to M&G or AirForceOne....would be redundant....but that is my call and my understanding.  If it is PLUMBED properly....it is gonna have air pressure when you hit the brakes...

[K9 Exec]

Hi Lee,

The best and most accurate way to test that port, is with a gauge that accepts up to 150 psi. I do not have one laying around any longer, but you could source it online for sure. You will have to adapt it most likely, from 1/4 to 3/8 or whatever the gauge you get terminates to. 
 

Once you do have it connected, air your tanks up, release your airbrake then have your helper hit your service brake pedal while you are looking at it, and you should see how many PSI you are getting at that location.  
 

Another option is to remove the plug, have a helper hit the brake with you back there, and the air should flow. 
 

Best of luck,

 

Nick

[96 EVO]

If it is an AF1 system they installed, the air line feeding that fitting will be coming from a small (9 or 10" long if I recall) air tank.

[Lee Smith]

41 minutes ago, K9 Exec said:

Hi Lee,

The best and most accurate way to test that port, is with a gauge that accepts up to 150 psi. I do not have one laying around any longer, but you could source it online for sure. You will have to adapt it most likely, from 1/4 to 3/8 or whatever the gauge you get terminates to. 
 

Once you do have it connected, air your tanks up, release your airbrake then have your helper hit your service brake pedal while you are looking at it, and you should see how many PSI you are getting at that location.  
 

Another option is to remove the plug, have a helper hit the brake with you back there, and the air should flow. 
 

Best of luck,

 

Nick

Just to prove that I have never worked on an air brake system:  How do I remove the plug?

When you look straight into the connection, there is a hex connection. Does that remove? Or are you talking about removing the whole connector?

Thank you,

Lee

[Ivan K]

Remove just the brass plug with a hex tool.

[K9 Exec]

Thanks Ivan, you beat me to it! Hello Tom and Ivan, Happy New Year to all! 

[Lee Smith]

8 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

Remove just the brass plug with a hex tool.

So that is just a plug. Should turn it counterclockwise?

Do I leave it removed and then hook the quick connector up?

I was thinking it was just a plug, but I am always afraid of breaking something and it comes out hard. I will likely need to put a wrench on the backside to keep the whole valve from turning. 

The amount of thread for the quick connector looks slim. I think I can adjust it for more thread.

Thank you again.

 

[Lee Smith]

45 minutes ago, Lee Smith said:

So that is just a plug. Should turn it counterclockwise?

Do I leave it removed and then hook the quick connector up?

I was thinking it was just a plug, but I am always afraid of breaking something and it comes out hard. I will likely need to put a wrench on the backside to keep the whole valve from turning. 

The amount of thread for the quick connector looks slim. I think I can adjust it for more thread.

Thank you again.

 

Okay, I get it now. I did my research. It is just a brass plug to seal off the end of the unused air-line. Due to the fact that there is a plastic line connected to the brass 90 I cannot heat it. I will soak it with Kroil oil and try to remove it tomorrow. I will adjust the fitting for more thread for the quick connect I will add.

Thanks everyone.

[K9 Exec]

Yes sir, you won’t need a wrench. Just give it 8-10 turns counter clockwise, that will remove the brass plug. All the plug does is prevent air from escaping.

I just saw this, sorry for the late reply. 
 

 Nick 

[96 EVO]

Like you mentioned earlier, if there is a way to getting a wrench on the back to hold it, may be the way to go.

[Guest Ray Davis]

A wrench right there on the face should hold it while removing the plug, no need to hold the back side.

[Tom Cherry]

15 hours ago, Lee Smith said:

Okay, I get it now. I did my research. It is just a brass plug to seal off the end of the unused air-line. Due to the fact that there is a plastic line connected to the brass 90 I cannot heat it. I will soak it with Kroil oil and try to remove it tomorrow. I will adjust the fitting for more thread for the quick connect I will add.

Thanks everyone.

You may not need two wrenches….if you blow up the picture, the flange nut looks like it may be welded on.  But it will not hurt to put one on it.  Let it soak for a while.  I would have a new brass plug with a s square nut or “head” on it.  The soft brass recess of the Allen head plug may be damaged getting it broken loose after all these years.and one for the plug.  Pump the brakes to purge and moisture. 

I have a question.  I assume you are going to install an air brake system, such as the M&G or AirForceOne.  Tapping into the line on the brake canister is simple.  Crawling under the MH and chasing the air line is also simple.  If you have determined that you do want an air brake system, then install it.  Once you brake the plug loose, I would have the correct Quick Disconnect fitting and it needs to be DOT Rated and the right fitting style ot size.  I would have the system in hand and install the one provided.

I’m a believer in taking something apart once and completing the job.  Worst case scenario, you abandon the nut and drill a hole and put in a threaded nipple with two locking nuts which will be supplied with the system you buy.  Otherwise, if you just want to see it go whoosh, then you have to reinstall and hope it seals and then leak test it.  Why do that twice once you get your system?

your call….