Kept me up for nights

[JDCrow]

Realized I should be posting here. Anyway if moderators want to move the last few topics to here, great! 
 

So I noticed the roof had let go and pulled back about 2’ in length. It made sense on how to do the repair. But after digging into it, the rivets failed, and there is a strip bonded to the sidewalk and the roof rivets into that strip. 
 

Well they didn’t hit the holes right at the factory, missed some of the strip. I was worried about using rivets again, tried a self tap screw to no avail.

While this might not be the right application, I decided to use 3M marine adhesive. The stuff is solid once cured. 
 

After cleaning up and drilling out some rivets, I gave it a go. And it set up nice. 

today got the trim piece in and caulked the strip. Turned out way better than I thought it would. 

[timaz996]

It looks good! How did you hold it together while the 5200 was curing? Just trying to put it in my memory bank in case that I ever need it.

[JDCrow]

1 minute ago, timaz996 said:

It looks good! How did you hold it together while the 5200 was curing? Just trying to put it in my memory bank in case that I ever need it.

I bought 1/2” Rivets and got just enough bite in them to suck it in. I was worried as well and was ready to Jamb a 2x4 staked in the ground up against it. 

[Tom Cherry]

That 5200 be good.  Don’t ever get your bottom glued to a toilet seat with it.  For you and other folks info.  Any high strength adhesive EXPANDS during curing.  When i glued on and pop riveted Chris Throgmartin’s Guardian Plates (did 3 so not a novice), I always put the “T Posts” back under each piece and lifted the slide, on each side, maybe 1/4” so that the 24 hour cure time was under compression.  They are smooth and never moved.  I try to clamp all high strength adhesives like PL and Liquid Nails.  Never had any buckling or such.  The Loctite PL tech support passed along that tip…

[JDCrow]

3 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

That 5200 be good.  Don’t ever get your bottom glued to a toilet seat with it.  For you and other folks info.  Any high strength adhesive EXPANDS during curing.  When i glued on and pop riveted Chris Throgmartin’s Guardian Plates (did 3 so not a novice), I always put the “T Posts” back under each piece and lifted the slide, on each side, maybe 1/4” so that the 24 hour cure time was under compression.  They are smooth and never moved.  I try to clamp all high strength adhesives like PL and Liquid Nails.  Never had any buckling or such.  The Loctite PL tech support passed along that tip…

Yeah installing my Talin plates gave me the idea for the 3M. Good to know on the expansion. I’ll have to keep an eye on it. 
 

I almost bought the fast cure version, but feared if I had a blow out I’d be in trouble and end up with the grinder. 

[Gary 05 AMB DST]

JD, what roof do you have?

Gary 05 AMB DST

[JDCrow]

1 minute ago, Gary 05 AMB DST said:

JD, what roof do you have?

Gary 05 AMB DST

2 piece Aluminum with the Big buck rivets down the center. 

[Gary 05 AMB DST]

JD, My MH also has the aluminum roof. As I was doing the recaulking along the top of the roof trim piece, I noticed that there were spots that had pulled away. I pulled off the rubber(?) trim that covered whatever was holding the trim piece on. I had screws in every 2-3 holes of the trim piece, some were broke. What I did on the roof line trim was the same that I did on the lower side trim piece. I replaced existing screws and put screws in every hole on the trim piece. If the existing screw broke, I would put a new one in next to it. The screws I used were size 10-16x1" SS self-drilling (Tek) screws, 5/16 hex head. I had to grind down the diameter of the 5/16 hex head driver bit to fit in the trim piece slot. Couldn't replace the trim piece screws that are under the slide topper, but reached in as far as I could. I couldn't believe they used pop rivets in the beginning years of assembly to hold on the trim pieces.

Gary 05 AMB DST

[JDCrow]

1 hour ago, Gary 05 AMB DST said:

JD, My MH also has the aluminum roof. As I was doing the recaulking along the top of the roof trim piece, I noticed that there were spots that had pulled away. I pulled off the rubber(?) trim that covered whatever was holding the trim piece on. I had screws in every 2-3 holes of the trim piece, some were broke. What I did on the roof line trim was the same that I did on the lower side trim piece. I replaced existing screws and put screws in every hole on the trim piece. If the existing screw broke, I would put a new one in next to it. The screws I used were size 10-16x1" SS self-drilling (Tek) screws, 5/16 hex head. I had to grind down the diameter of the 5/16 hex head driver bit to fit in the trim piece slot. Couldn't replace the trim piece screws that are under the slide topper, but reached in as far as I could. I couldn't believe they used pop rivets in the beginning years of assembly to hold on the trim pieces.

Gary 05 AMB DST

I tried some 1 1/4” self tappers and couldn’t get them to go in. So went with the 3M and rivets. Would have liked to get some screws in 

[Gary 05 AMB DST]

3 hours ago, JDCrow said:

I tried some 1 1/4” self tappers and couldn’t get them to go in. So went with the 3M and rivets. Would have liked to get some screws in 

JD, Did you do the entire trim piece? The self drilling, pro name Tek, screws has an actual drill bit on the end. Hardware store should have them. I used a 1" length Tek. Remember I'm a retired "Union" sheet metal worker.

Gary 05 AMB DST

[JDCrow]

10 hours ago, Gary 05 AMB DST said:

JD, Did you do the entire trim piece? The self drilling, pro name Tek, screws has an actual drill bit on the end. Hardware store should have them. I used a 1" length Tek. Remember I'm a retired "Union" sheet metal worker.

Gary 05 AMB DST

I did just the 2’ or so that peeled back from the front cap.