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2007 Monaco Signature - Stairs will not retract.


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Entry steps will not retract on the Coach. 

Checked the 20amp fuse in the rear - Good

Checked the 5 amp fuse for the switch on the dash panel - Good

Ran a magnet along door jam, specifically at the bottom left AND on the door itself. 

Nothing is getting it done.

Thoughts?

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Can you hear the motor running?  If so, it’s likely the motor is shot. Plastic gear can break. Easy to replace and cheap. Do a search. Lots of threads on it. 
 

It could also be the module that sits close to the motor. Check for power coming in and out of the module. If no or little power coming out, it may need replacing. Its easy to replace but relatively costly. 

There is also an inline fuse behind the switch at the door.  Mine was inside the passenger armrest  

Make sure while your under there the coach is supported and keep all body parts and clothing clear of the steps. 

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13 minutes ago, Tony G. said:

Red is typically not a ground. On mine the red goes from the motor to the controller box20230729_114724.thumb.jpg.9c8d8ddd4b7c443d0ba34429302717f5.jpg

@Tony G. & @Andy S.  Just so I don't get confused and I am usually the first one.  The 98 Dynasty has the Kwikee steps with a motor that does NOT look like what is on my Camelot....nor any of the pictures that folks have posted.  The Stromberg Carlson (owned Kwikee) and the CoachStep (owned by Lippert).  I helped someone offline this morning...  Andy needs to identify his steps by the documents below.  They also have TROUBLE SHOOTING steps.  There MAY be some repeats...but these are what most people successfully use...

Andy....TIME for the VOM and starting to take harnesses apart.  Easy to follow instructions.  You MAY need a spare 20A line that you steal and run.  You can use a FUSED line directly off the House battery to test the motor rather than ripping it out.

MY EXPERIENCE...  The controllers, if you have a CoachStep, PROBABLY, were or could have been made by them in the Texas factory before Lippert shut it down and moved to Indiana.  IF SO, the controller was "weak" as in the PCB inside the enclosure was prone to moisture (think hitting a mud puddle or just water from the road).  Lippert identified that (WARRANTY) and then revised the design.  They had the PCB in the controller "POTTED" or sealed in a glob (if you don't know what POTTING is) of Silicone or some other waterproofing material.  Even after that, MOST techs when they installed a new one would seal around the ingoing wiring harness.

NEXT UP...I would FIRST plug and unplug every connection...I think there are TWO.  I would also find the GROUND and clean the metal under it.  I actually bought some "Aluminum toothpaste" called NoAlox.  It is a anticorrosion compound to prevent to dissimilar metals (Aluminum and Copper) from corroding once the they are mechanically BONDED (inside a wire nut on on a terminal strip.  Manufactured housing had or maybe still does...AL wiring...mixed with Copper).

OK...the compound has metal so it conducts.  I pulled mine apart (I use this on the umbilical from time to time) and used a toothpick and lightly coated each end or the terminals.  The Techs will ALSO use RTV sealant on the connectors to waterproof them.  I got a new controller under warranty. A week later...NOTHING.  Called the tech (had his cell).  PLUG and UNPLUG and see.  It worked.  Follow the test procedure and it will show you the issue.

That's it...but IDENTIFY FIRST and then use the right guide and go from there.

Lippert Coachstep.pdf Lippert Universal Step manual pg_2005steptrainpart2.pdf ccd_0001619.pdf CoachStepElectric - Instructions - Stromberg Carlson.pdf

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Getting under the coach to really get a look is a challenge, but I will. Planning on the unplug-plug operation in the early am hen it's not 108 down here south of Houston. 

I know red is never the color of a ground wire, but the gauge is so small, I was thinking it might have something to do with the magnet. (from a post above).

More to follow.

THANK YOU everyone for the help.

Best website EVER!!

I have more issues, so I'm not done with you!!!😀

What I REALLY NEED, is a mobile tech from Houston, San Antonio or Austin....Anyone got a lead for me?...Please and Thank you

Andy

 

 

 

FYI, Mine is a SCS/Frigette step

Edited by Andy S.
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Have you changed the position of the step switch next to the door by accident…step won’t retract with it off?

While under there check that the 3 bolts that hold the motor are there and tight. Fortunately you do not have any plastic gears but everything is exposed.

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  • 2 months later...

First post here, long time user of IRV2's Monaco forum. I had a few problems with my step over the years. I had to pull the whole step out of the coach to clean out the corrosion and replace the controller. Try to avoid this if possible as it uses blind bolts to put it back in.

The end the hardest one to fix was the wire to the door sensing magnet runs out of the rear of the door frame into the wheel well where there was an electrical but connection that wasn't even in shrink wrapped even though it hung in the direct spray zone of the front wheel. Monaco build quality was very sketchy in the 2005 - 2006 period, so this wasn't that surprising. The connection was severely corroded and when I was tracing the wire it just collapsed in my hand. Intermittent step malfunction solved. I put on a new but connection and marine heat shrink and it hasn't given me any more trouble.

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