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UPDATE - Bay lights not working - Possible CCM MPX system issues.


JTerry

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5 minutes ago, Frank McElroy said:

On your coach for the battery cut-off switch to work you must press and hold the switch for more than 3 seconds.  This will then shut off house battery power to the coach.  To turn it back on, press once.

That's a better setup!

I've pressed mine by accident in the dark a couple of times!

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5 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

That's a better setup!

I've pressed mine by accident in the dark a couple of times!

Yes, it is absolutely a great feature.  The next time I get a RRB #6 circuit board in for repair and if it has that 3 second delay feature, I'll copy the program on the board PIC IC so I can put it on my coach.  I really like that delay feature.  

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11 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

That's a better setup!

I've pressed mine by accident in the dark a couple of times!

Two things you might consider.  I installed an LED in parallel with the outside light (porch light) that comes on when you use the keyfob or the keypad to unlock.  That LED is mounted (drilled a small hole) above the overhead fluorescent living/kitchen light switch on the lower passenger console on the left as you enter.  That activation is a timed pulse and stays lighted for 30 seconds.  So, when the porch light comes on, then you open the door.  The switch you want to turn on, the 3 fluorescents,  is right under the LED…so…even in the dark…you know which switch to push.  Family loves.

Second thing…   Simply add a Push to Operate momentary contact (push button) switch directly above the Battery cutoff switch.  Series string the “unlatch” signal from the Battery cutoff switch with the push button new switch.  Thus, if you bump the Battery cut off switch (down) by mistake it doesn’t operate.  To cut off the salesman switch, you hold the push button (new) switch in with your first finger (or thumb).  Then use your thumb and press the switch.  Like a 2 hand control on an Industrial machine (press 2 palm buttons) to activate.  Other option is a spring loaded toggle switch…. Must hold the toggle switch ON and press the spring loaded Battery cutoff switch. 

I had mine jumpered for years….then had to do some work inside the RRB and just removed the Solenoid…. 

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I have a 2007 Cheetah.  I have a switch for the bay lights on the panel in the wet bay.  I had this same issue and found the switch in the wet bay to be in-between off and on.  When I put it into the on position the lights came on and the switch just inside the entry door worked also.

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Bob K.

Thanks for your info regarding the bay lights. The only step light switches that are not working are the Bay Light and the Porch Light. The others appear to work. I will check the VCF-8 fuse in the FRB.

 

Bobby Linn,

Thanks for the info regarding Bay Lights. My coach does not have a Bay Light switch in the wet bay. The only switch I have found is on the left of the entry door. I'm going to keep searching but I think the final solution is to wire a new set of lights.

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Bobby Linn,

Thanks for the info regarding Bay Lights. My coach does not have a Bay Light switch in the wet bay. The only switch I have found is on the left of the entry door. I'm going to keep searching but I think the final solution is to wire a new set of lights.

Ben,

My bay lights do not have switches. There is a florescent light in the wet bay that is apparently on a different circuit, it works.

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Jay, you have a chassis multiplex coach.  If you have a short in both the PS and DS bay light circuit they both will not turn on.  Since the switch light turns on, the CCM is getting the signal.  So, you either have an unplugged/corroded connector, a shorted wire, a shorted light or both CCM MOSFETS have failed. Are all the other dash switches working?

You do NOT have any bad fuses - the MOSFETS are your fuses. The MOSFETs in the "rear" CCM (located in the first bay ceiling between the frame rails and behind the steer axle) will prevent them from lighting. 

You need to verify that there is no short in connectors RF-19, RF-18, SC-9, SC10, or FC15 and that they are connected and that there is no short in any of the bay lights or the service light up front or the engine compartment light.  There are two wires as outputs from the rear CCM - they are labelled.  One for the PS and the other for the DS bay/service/engine compartment lights.  Remove the J3 connector from the rear CCM and with all the bay and service light bulbs removed be sure the is no shorted wire to ground on the rear CCM connector J3 pins R (bay light DS) and S (Bay lights PS).  Also, verify that connectors RF-19, RF-18, SC-9, SC10, and FC15 are in fact connected as per the wiring diagram.

See drawing number 38080148 ( p 84) in the link below.

 

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