OPEN NEUTRAL - WITH LOAD - Xantrex Freedom 458 damaged. Concerns and Assistance requested.

[Bob Wightman]

Last night the neutral wire connection to the plug on the 50 amp electrical extension cord we use to run our RV in the driveway before we leave for a trip come loose.  I only knew about it (as I was doing other things) as the wife said "Something is going on with the AC's in the RV".  The surge suppressor lights showed me the cord had a problem, found and fixed the problem but once the power was restored I found there was more damage (those who know what happens to an RV when you loose the neutral wire on a 50 amp 220V cord to an RV are expecting this), the biggest of which that I've discovered so far is that the Xantrex 458 Converter/Inverter blew up, also found the fuse on the refrigerator blown up too (but was still running on LP, so hopeful thats all it is).  So, since we were going to leave for a weekend trip tomorrow...and I cant get a new converter until sometime next week...has anybody bypassed the electrical circuits on the converter (not the charger to the house batteries) to McGiver their way through a trip?  I'm going to be running on generator the whole trip so will have AC power available...if this is not a good idea I found I do have some outlets that run on the generator and can use extension cords to get me through until I can replace the converter.  Also, recommendation on where to buy the new converter. Thanks in advance for the advice.   2004 Knight 34PDD, Onan 7500 W Diesal generator 

[Tom Cherry]

12 minutes ago, Bob Wightman said:

Last night the neutral wire connection to the plug on the 50 amp electrical extension cord we use to run our RV in the driveway before we leave for a trip come loose.  I only knew about it (as I was doing other things) as the wife said "Something is going on with the AC's in the RV".  The surge suppressor lights showed me the cord had a problem, found and fixed the problem but once the power was restored I found there was more damage (those who know what happens to an RV when you loose the neutral wire on a 50 amp 220V cord to an RV are expecting this), the biggest of which that I've discovered so far is that the Xantrex 458 Converter/Inverter blew up, also found the fuse on the refrigerator blown up too (but was still running on LP, so hopeful thats all it is).  So, since we were going to leave for a weekend trip tomorrow...and I cant get a new converter until sometime next week...has anybody bypassed the electrical circuits on the converter (not the charger to the house batteries) to McGiver their way through a trip?  I'm going to be running on generator the whole trip so will have AC power available...if this is not a good idea I found I do have some outlets that run on the generator and can use extension cords to get me through until I can replace the converter.  Also, recommendation on where to buy the new converter. Thanks in advance for the advice.   2004 Knight 34PDD, Onan 7500 W Diesal generator 

You had what is called an OPEN Neutral....as in the Neutral side of the 50 A service was not connected.  Unfortunately, this is the worst scenario for our motor homes.  What happened then was the L1 and L2 (HOT or Line side) of the circuit could NOT find the Neutral.  Therefore, they went in search of the other side or circuit.  Then, they "paired up".  That means that the L1 and L2 legs each had the potential of becoming 230 VAC and not the normal 115 VAC.  Typically, you will see upwards of 175 VAC on the 115 circuit.  Obviously, the over voltage will do damage.  The damage will depend on what devices were ON.  In one of the worst cases I can remember over the past 14 years, the entire MH had to have all the 120 VAC devices replaced.  That was both AC's, the TV's, Home Entertainment Center, Microwave, etc. 

Since the Inverter was ON and supplying power, the main control board got fried.  Remember that your interior outlets and the Microwave 115 VAC service comes INTO the Inverter...and if there is power (as in Shore or Genny), then there is an internal Automatic Transfer Switch (ATS) on the circuit board and that "passes" or allows the Shore/Genny power to go directly to the Outlets.

The heaters on your refrigerator had a massive current surge.  That is why the fuses blew.  Therefore, you MAY (and I do NOT KNOW...wish I did) whether the heater elements were damaged.  Think of them as being big toaster elements enclosed in a ceramic and housed in a metal tube.  The DC (control side) of the refrigerator was not impacted, so it did revert or switch over to LP when the fuses finally blew.  You will just have to test them or see if they work when you restore main power.

The Inverter is SHOT.  It is NOT worth, due to the age, having it repaired.  PERSONALLY, I would purchase a Magnum ME2012 (Square wave like you had) or upgrade to the Magnum MS2012.  The hookup will be the same.  Incoming power (120 VAC from the 30 Amp breaker), Two Outgoing 120 VAC lines (just like you have now...and the Battery cables.  If your Xantrex remote is on a "Phone Cable", then that will probably work.  The remote is just plugged into the inverter via a phone (data) cable. IF you have the Automatic Generator Start, that will have to be replaced with the Magnum AGS.  I do NOT know if your Xantrex AGS will work with a NEW one.  We have more knowledge of Magnums and the tech support is better.  If the AGS (assuming you have one) was functional and you use it, then contact Xantrex and ask them for compatibilty or what the options are.  If you don't use the AGS, then I would replace with a Magnum.  There is MORE help and knowledge on the Magnum here than the Xantrex.

Odds are that the Automatic Transfer Switch was damaged....  No way to tell.  NOW, here is what you MIGHT (and I say MIGHT do.  If you are NOT comfortable with Electrical Repairs, then perhaps a friend or a residential electrician can help.  Here is a link to the manual.  Go to page 25.  There is a 30 Amp breaker that feeds or is the MAIN or POWER in line to the Xantrex.  There are TWO circuits OUT. You can get a junction box ( called a 4X4 metal) at Lowes or a hardware store.  You MARK the POWER IN cable.  You mark the POWER OUT and designate which which is #1 and #2. MAIN PANEL POWER OFF and NO SHORE and TURN OFF (Trip) the Circuit Breaker on the Genny.  Then remove the three cables...which will have to be done later on.  Then put them into the junction box.  Connect all the WHITES with a wire nut....use the RED.  Same for the Blacks and Ground.  Make sure you FIRMLY TWIST each nut.  After you do all 3, go back and then tighten each one.  Put on the Junction box cover....  HOW you have power to each outlet....    THE ONLY WARNING.  It would be POSSIBLE, if you plugged two HIGH current (think TWO microwaves ) into the SAME outlet.  So, do NOT overload any of the internal outlets.  I would NOT USE the REFRIGERATOR...  but, it is on a separate breaker...so you can try.

https://xantrex.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/445-0193-01-01-Rev-A-online-revisedFreedom-458-Series-Owners-Manual.pdf

THIS ALL ASSUMES THAT YOUR ATS IS OK AND IS SWITCHING POWER.  IF that is NOT the case, then you will NOT have any power from the ATS....THAT IS AN UNKNOWN....  You NEED TO UNDERSTAND...regardless of Genny or SHORE..... the Automatic Transfer Switch (ATS) supplies or switches power....this is the TEST... 

TURN OFF the Inverter Breaker (30 Amp).  Turn OFF the AC Breakers....  Unplug the refrigerator power cord from the receptacle in the rear access.  NOW....use the Genny....let it run.  Then plug in a device or 115 volt anything to the refrigerator outlet.  You SHOULD, if the ATS is working...have power there.  If NOT, then the ATS is FRIED.  If the ATS is fried or damaged...you will NOT have ANY INTERNAL POWER OR such...  You SHOULD NOT ATTEMPT to bypass it.  The wiring is complicated and unless you understand it, do NOT ATTEMPT...

Wish there was a better answer...but this is the facts, based on what I understand from you.

Unfortunately, you have a surge suppressor (assuming from your explanation) that only WARNS you about an OPEN Neutral.  If you had had one that "SHUTS DOWN" and kills the power, then you would not have had the damage as the Open Neutral would have shut off power.  The Progressive HW50C (in is installed inside or in the power circuit) has OPEN Neutral protection.  I had the same thing happen to me.  I bumped the plug (the bay door tapped it) on the pedestal.  That dislodged the Neutral ....it was NOT properly crimped...inside the power plug.  LOST POWER.  I used the Genny for the rest of the trip.  Trouble shot the wiring and found the bad plug...replaced it.  No damage or issues.

That's it.  Others may chime in...but this is my analysis of what you posted...

[Bob Wightman]

Hi Tom, thanks for taking the time to reply to my post.  I'm a General Contractor with quite a bit of electrical experience (also have an electrical engineering degree from a previous career) so totally understand your descriptions and commentary.  I tested the ATS and fortunately it still works, shut down the breakers on the AC supply at the house and fired up the generator, with the normal delay of the AC's both came on and worked.  Found all my ac outlets in the house are out except for the two on the night stands in the bedroom, and on the outside the outlet for the block heater still works.  Figured I could run everything I need by extension cords if i had to, but since I will have to remove the converter anyway I could jump the two circuits to the supply side inverter breaker and fire up the outlets inside the house, and then split them again when the new converter arrives...pretty simple to do.   The only drawback would be charging the house batteries, which I do have solar for and could run the engine to let the alternator do.  I was just going to replace the converter with the same so the panel in the house would work, which surprisingly it still seems normal now.  If the Magnum converter will plug into (by the telephone wire) to the house panel then its probably a pretty good upgrade...if not I never had a problem with the Xantrex.  Any others that have feedback would be appreciated.  VERY busy day today so "IF" I'm going to do this i need to get it done after work today/tonight or cancel the trip. 

[Tom Cherry]

2 minutes ago, Bob Wightman said:

Hi Tom, thanks for taking the time to reply to my post.  I'm a General Contractor with quite a bit of electrical experience (also have an electrical engineering degree from a previous career) so totally understand your descriptions and commentary.  I tested the ATS and fortunately it still works, shut down the breakers on the AC supply at the house and fired up the generator, with the normal delay of the AC's both came on and worked.  Found all my ac outlets in the house are out except for the two on the night stands in the bedroom, and on the outside the outlet for the block heater still works.  Figured I could run everything I need by extension cords if i had to, but since I will have to remove the converter anyway I could jump the two circuits to the supply side inverter breaker and fire up the outlets inside the house, and then split them again when the new converter arrives...pretty simple to do.   The only drawback would be charging the house batteries, which I do have solar for and could run the engine to let the alternator do.  I was just going to replace the converter with the same so the panel in the house would work, which surprisingly it still seems normal now.  If the Magnum converter will plug into (by the telephone wire) to the house panel then its probably a pretty good upgrade...if not I never had a problem with the Xantrex.  Any others that have feedback would be appreciated.  VERY busy day today so "IF" I'm going to do this i need to get it done after work today/tonight or cancel the trip. 

I certainly did not intend to besmirch you or talk down to you.  You seem to have it under control.  The real test will be when you get the inverter replaced.  HOW, I DO have a question.  Are you SURE that your Alternator will charge the House Batteries.  UNLESS something (memory) was done, I do NOT think that there was a BIRD (Bi-Diectional) charging system on your MH.

SIMPLE FIX.  Run a Jumper Cable between the House Positive and the Chassis Positive.  That will ensure that your batteries are charged. 

DISCONNECT and TAPE OFF the battery leads from the Xantrex.....that will take care of any "shorting".

Your background is great...  Good Luck....  IF nothing was ON...as in operating....like a TV or AC, then there will be no DAMAGE.  BUT, whatever AC appliance or device was turned on...  it got a high voltage....

That's it....  Keep us posted....  We rarely have such...and this is on the third or fourth since I joined in 2009 and started moderating in 2010 or so...

[hex_nut]

Bob

Just a few comments from someone who has gone through this exact scenario a few years ago.  My Freedom 458 fried.  I had become extremely frustrated with Xantrex lack of quality control, so I chose to replace the entire system with a Magnum product.  I did have to replace the remote and the automatic generator start module as well as the battery monitor system.  All of those components did make it a rather expensive upgrade, but I have been happy for many years with the results.  I went with the MS2012, the ME-ARC50, the ME-AGS-N and the ME-BMK.  I was able to reuse the physical twisted pair cable between the components, BUT did have to redo the end terminal connections to match the Magnum wiring schematic.  In your case, for ease of replacement, I would probably go with the Xantrex product (I would hope they have improved their quality control).  I would certainly suggest you go with a pure sine wave inverter rather than a modified sine wave product.  They are a bit more expensive, but your sensitive electronics will thank you.  Good luck with your replacement.

Richard

Bob

Just to satisfy my own curiosity, I went looking on Amazon to see what the current Xantrex product was selling for:

https://www.amazon.com/Xantrex-815-2012-Freedom-Inverter-Charger/dp/B006M4KINC/ref=dp_fod_sccl_1/144-3699834-4970466?pd_rd_w=G00os&content-id=amzn1.sym.c1d527b2-d053-4e09-ac20-091579b51534&pf_rd_p=c1d527b2-d053-4e09-ac20-091579b51534&pf_rd_r=Y24PKSNHTTRKB2010ARF&pd_rd_wg=sp1Ml&pd_rd_r=48aa7f1f-670b-45b8-9fc1-de28943a2df9&pd_rd_i=B006M4KINC&th=1

Richard

[hex_nut]

As expected, the modified sine wave version is a few hundred dollars less expensive:

https://www.amazon.com/Xantrex-Technology-81-2022-12-Inverter-Charger/dp/B004C5PDEC/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3PC6WTOVFF59X&keywords=xantrex%2B2000w%2Binverter%2Fcharger&qid=1693591479&s=automotive&sprefix=xantrex%2B2000w%2Binverter%2Fcharger%2Cautomotive%2C125&sr=1-1&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.765d4786-5719-48b9-b588-eab9385652d5&th=1

[Bob Wightman]

Ok, to keep everybody updated, I was able to fabricate a bypass for the inverter.  I bought a Square D 2 pole service disconnect, replace the 60 amp breaker switch with two single pole breakers (15A & 20A), removed the inverter all together, took the 30 amp feed from the inverter and wired it into the service disconnect box, jumped the two hot terminals together to share the 110V, brought in the two circuits from the inverter and put the hot leads under the two breakers and wired together all the whites and grounds.  Worked like a charm...worked so good I got a second service disconnect and did the same thing.  This time I branched the 30 amp feed off the input of the first disconnect and fed the second disconnect, added a 30 amp breaker and a 20 amp breaker to the second disconnect, ran a #10 wire out of the disconnect to feed the new converter when it arrives.  Set an electrical box in the battery bay and connected it to the 20 amp breaker.  On that box I plugged in battery chargers (two of them- one to each pair of 6V batteries to total 12 volts) to charge the house batteries.  So far all that is working good and all the AC power is back on everywhere.   I did all this with the idea that converters fail, usually when you need them most so a way to bypass them would be nice to have already installed.  My only concern is the output of the converter had a white & black for each circuit, my plan is to connect the output of the new inverter to the same output lugs as the first disconnect so that I can choose to power the house from the batteries or the generator/shore power by just flipping some breakers.  I would think the appliances would be happier running off shore power/generator supply than the inverter.  My plan is to kill the breakers on the inverter when I want to bypass it, but let it still charge the house batteries.  Gonna have to see how this all works out next week but seems like it will work.  My only concern is with connecting the two separate white wires coming out of the inverter...but since it works now it should work with the inverter.

The only bad thing so far is the refrigerator.  I put in the new 5 amp fuse and it was running on AC, I felt the back of the freezer get cool and the heating section on the refrigerator get hot so I thought all was good.  Not so, when I got home the fridge was hot and had a beeping no co code.  I tried to reset the board per what I found online and it didn't work.  But, my Norcold fridge has the updated control board in it to mate with the new control board on the inside...which doesn't look like the board on the "how to reset the no co code".  Too tired to research further, think I need to replace the control board AGAIN to fix it.  Planing on carrying food in coolers this weekend but still planing to go now that everything else is working.  Any input on the fridge problem is appreciated, and I hope my bypass McGiver works for someone else.

[Tom Cherry]

37 minutes ago, Bob Wightman said:

Ok, to keep everybody updated, I was able to fabricate a bypass for the inverter.  I bought a Square D 2 pole service disconnect, replace the 60 amp breaker switch with two single pole breakers (15A & 20A), removed the inverter all together, took the 30 amp feed from the inverter and wired it into the service disconnect box, jumped the two hot terminals together to share the 110V, brought in the two circuits from the inverter and put the hot leads under the two breakers and wired together all the whites and grounds.  Worked like a charm...worked so good I got a second service disconnect and did the same thing.  This time I branched the 30 amp feed off the input of the first disconnect and fed the second disconnect, added a 30 amp breaker and a 20 amp breaker to the second disconnect, ran a #10 wire out of the disconnect to feed the new converter when it arrives.  Set an electrical box in the battery bay and connected it to the 20 amp breaker.  On that box I plugged in battery chargers (two of them- one to each pair of 6V batteries to total 12 volts) to charge the house batteries.  So far all that is working good and all the AC power is back on everywhere.   I did all this with the idea that converters fail, usually when you need them most so a way to bypass them would be nice to have already installed.  My only concern is the output of the converter had a white & black for each circuit, my plan is to connect the output of the new inverter to the same output lugs as the first disconnect so that I can choose to power the house from the batteries or the generator/shore power by just flipping some breakers.  I would think the appliances would be happier running off shore power/generator supply than the inverter.  My plan is to kill the breakers on the inverter when I want to bypass it, but let it still charge the house batteries.  Gonna have to see how this all works out next week but seems like it will work.  My only concern is with connecting the two separate white wires coming out of the inverter...but since it works now it should work with the inverter.

The only bad thing so far is the refrigerator.  I put in the new 5 amp fuse and it was running on AC, I felt the back of the freezer get cool and the heating section on the refrigerator get hot so I thought all was good.  Not so, when I got home the fridge was hot and had a beeping no co code.  I tried to reset the board per what I found online and it didn't work.  But, my Norcold fridge has the updated control board in it to mate with the new control board on the inside...which doesn't look like the board on the "how to reset the no co code".  Too tired to research further, think I need to replace the control board AGAIN to fix it.  Planing on carrying food in coolers this weekend but still planing to go now that everything else is working.  Any input on the fridge problem is appreciated, and I hope my bypass McGiver works for someone else.

Very good write up and logic.  Thanks.  You might want to consider a conversion to res refer.  We have way too many (hundreds…I dare say) that have only one regret….why didn’t I do it SOONER?  But, you have a plan and when things calm down and you do your research, maybe a solution….but, the time may be right snd fate interceded…

As a rule, we always ask this question.  Assume you are aware of the issues with the recalled IOTA ATS 50R.  If you have one, be aware it is dangerous.  Then, based on your experience, I am glad that I opted for taking a loss on a barely used SurgeGuard portable did not have a “SHUTDOWN” feature and installed the Progressive HW50C….as Imhad the same incident as you did.  Just a tiny bump dislodged the poorly crimped Neutral.  You might want to check your home power.  There are some that think that if the Neutral and Ground were properly bonded, per code, that the open neutral in the downstream line would have prevented damage.  I don’t know…but I do know that my pedestal at the CG was OK and maybe the HW50C was sensitive…as it shut down instantly.

Keep us informed and have a good trip…you deserve a break….

[pulsarjab]

Please be very cautious this weekend. I am not an expert and do not understand some of things recommended or the things you have done to get things going, but I have had a transfer switch melt down and take out two TVs, microwave, Norcold, and inverter. Luckily, my computer equipment was plugged into surge protector cord and it only fried the cord. But, when I say the transfer switch melted down, it really did. This happened in the middle of the night and we are very blessed that there was no fire. The transfer switch, on our 2000 Diplomat, is located right under the bedroom.

[cbr046]

@Bob Wightman you can also think about a small electric fridge like this one - https://www.walmart.com/ip/VEVORbrand-55L-Portable-Car-Refrigerator-58-Quart-Compact-RV-Fridge-12-24V-DC-110-240V-AC-Vehicle-Truck-Boat-Mini-Electric-Cooler-Driving-Travel-Fish/176905630?athbdg=L1700&from=/search

They make sizes from 10qt to 55qt+ and SURELY you'll be passing a Walmart somewhere . . . . beats hunting for bags of ice.  Plus it makes for a nice Norcold backup . . . . and gives you cold drinks up front.  👍

 

3 hours ago, pulsarjab said:

Please be very cautious this weekend. I am not an expert and do not understand some of things recommended or the things you have done to get things going, but I have had a transfer switch melt down and take out two TVs, microwave, Norcold, and inverter. Luckily, my computer equipment was plugged into surge protector cord and it only fried the cord. But, when I say the transfer switch melted down, it really did. This happened in the middle of the night and we are very blessed that there was no fire. The transfer switch, on our 2000 Diplomat, is located right under the bedroom.

I'm curious if you were running the AC at night, electric heaters or other high loads that would have caused a loose connection in your transfer switch to heat up?   Torquing the connections periodically isn't a bad idea . . . .

- bob

[pulsarjab]

Yes, we were running AC. I suspect the wires were loose in the switch, at lease they were when we pulled it out, but everything inside was fried so hard to tell. I agree with you, annually pull the box cover and torque the screws. Make sure no current is present , no generator, not plugged into shore power, and just to be safe, both battery sets turned off. Not an expert but a quick learner. One time, I found loose connections in a fifth wheel parked next to us. Found his transfer switch. tapped it, and power came on. Not a good sign.

 

[cbr046]

49 minutes ago, pulsarjab said:

One time, I found loose connections in a fifth wheel parked next to us. Found his transfer switch. tapped it, and power came on. Not a good sign.

 

That can take both of you out . . . . and more! 

- bob

[Bob Wightman]

On 9/1/2023 at 10:41 PM, Bob Wightman said:

Ok, to keep everybody updated, I was able to fabricate a bypass for the inverter.  I bought a Square D 2 pole service disconnect, replace the 60 amp breaker switch with two single pole breakers (15A & 20A), removed the inverter all together, took the 30 amp feed from the inverter and wired it into the service disconnect box, jumped the two hot terminals together to share the 110V, brought in the two circuits from the inverter and put the hot leads under the two breakers and wired together all the whites and grounds.  Worked like a charm...worked so good I got a second service disconnect and did the same thing.  This time I branched the 30 amp feed off the input of the first disconnect and fed the second disconnect, added a 30 amp breaker and a 20 amp breaker to the second disconnect, ran a #10 wire out of the disconnect to feed the new converter when it arrives.  Set an electrical box in the battery bay and connected it to the 20 amp breaker.  On that box I plugged in battery chargers (two of them- one to each pair of 6V batteries to total 12 volts) to charge the house batteries.  So far all that is working good and all the AC power is back on everywhere.   I did all this with the idea that converters fail, usually when you need them most so a way to bypass them would be nice to have already installed.  My only concern is the output of the converter had a white & black for each circuit, my plan is to connect the output of the new inverter to the same output lugs as the first disconnect so that I can choose to power the house from the batteries or the generator/shore power by just flipping some breakers.  I would think the appliances would be happier running off shore power/generator supply than the inverter.  My plan is to kill the breakers on the inverter when I want to bypass it, but let it still charge the house batteries.  Gonna have to see how this all works out next week but seems like it will work.  My only concern is with connecting the two separate white wires coming out of the inverter...but since it works now it should work with the inverter.

The only bad thing so far is the refrigerator.  I put in the new 5 amp fuse and it was running on AC, I felt the back of the freezer get cool and the heating section on the refrigerator get hot so I thought all was good.  Not so, when I got home the fridge was hot and had a beeping no co code.  I tried to reset the board per what I found online and it didn't work.  But, my Norcold fridge has the updated control board in it to mate with the new control board on the inside...which doesn't look like the board on the "how to reset the no co code".  Too tired to research further, think I need to replace the control board AGAIN to fix it.  Planing on carrying food in coolers this weekend but still planing to go now that everything else is working.  Any input on the fridge problem is appreciated, and I hope my bypass McGiver works for someone else.

UPDATE: I wanted to followup with anybody that might have been interested in the converter bypass I built when the converter burned up from an open neutral with load.  The circuit breaker bypass worked excellent with the converter removed...but it has to be removed completely to direct wire the two load circuits that feed the house outlets as standard electrical wiring.  Now that i'm back from the trip and the new converter has arrived i have determined that the bypass cannot stay wired as an option in case of convert failure due to each supply and load circuit having its own neutral (white) wire.  So, I removed one of the service disconnect boxes, rewired the other to have a 30 amp breaker for a converter shutoff in the bay with it, and a 20 amp breaker that I hardwired to an outlet box in the battery bay to keep the engine batteries charged while in storage.  I think the battery bay electrical is a nice upgrade but wanted it breaker protected in case there was any problems with the charger I added to the wall of that compartment.  All good on the electrical supply side, now (when the parts arrive today-new heaters) get the fridge fixed and the rig will be back to normal (or better)

[Bob Wightman]

21 hours ago, Bob Wightman said:

UPDATE: I wanted to followup with anybody that might have been interested in the converter bypass I built when the converter burned up from an open neutral with load.  The circuit breaker bypass worked excellent with the converter removed...but it has to be removed completely to direct wire the two load circuits that feed the house outlets as standard electrical wiring.  Now that i'm back from the trip and the new converter has arrived i have determined that the bypass cannot stay wired as an option in case of convert failure due to each supply and load circuit having its own neutral (white) wire.  So, I removed one of the service disconnect boxes, rewired the other to have a 30 amp breaker for a converter shutoff in the bay with it, and a 20 amp breaker that I hardwired to an outlet box in the battery bay to keep the engine batteries charged while in storage.  I think the battery bay electrical is a nice upgrade but wanted it breaker protected in case there was any problems with the charger I added to the wall of that compartment.  All good on the electrical supply side, now (when the parts arrive today-new heaters) get the fridge fixed and the rig will be back to normal (or better)

Last Update:  Put two new heaters in the refrigerator and a new control board (just to be safe) and still had the "no co" code.  Now I am sure (by resistance/ohm test...BTW/FYI readings on both new ones was 59 Ohms) that the heaters were bad, and I'm almost sure there was nothing wrong with the control board so couldn't understand why it still said "no co".  Figured the control board needed to be reset, but I had previously upgraded the control board and keypad to the newer models and couldn't find the procedure for how to reset the 628661 model board.  Finally after much searching I found it and wanted to share with everybody to save you some time looking.  Attached is a link to the reset for both the older and newer stile Norcold control boards.  This worked for I'm happy to report it works and I now have the refrigerator fixed, it ran over night and "Baby it's COLD inside!"

https://rvfridgeguys.com/blog/norcold-refrigerator-in-lockout-mode-do-you-need-to-reset-your-power-board-/. 

[Tom Cherry]

30 minutes ago, Bob Wightman said:

Last Update:  Put two new heaters in the refrigerator and a new control board (just to be safe) and still had the "no co" code.  Now I am sure (by resistance/ohm test...BTW/FYI readings on both new ones was 59 Ohms) that the heaters were bad, and I'm almost sure there was nothing wrong with the control board so couldn't understand why it still said "no co".  Figured the control board needed to be reset, but I had previously upgraded the control board and keypad to the newer models and couldn't find the procedure for how to reset the 628661 model board.  Finally after much searching I found it and wanted to share with everybody to save you some time looking.  Attached is a link to the reset for both the older and newer stile Norcold control boards.  This worked for I'm happy to report it works and I now have the refrigerator fixed, it ran over night and "Baby it's COLD inside!"

https://rvfridgeguys.com/blog/norcold-refrigerator-in-lockout-mode-do-you-need-to-reset-your-power-board-/. 

@Gonzalo

@Bob Wightman

Bob, glad you got it solved.  i am linking a recent Norcold issue topic for your information….you may already be aware….scroll to the end..  this is the video about a “locked” or perhaps a high limit issue.

Gonzalo,  you have not responded as to whether the magnet reset fixed your issue.

HOWEVER, We Moderators encourage research and the search tool is a great resource.  Both of you may be aware of it…. BUT MANY ARE NOT….so take this a an opportune time for a TEACHING MOMENT.

Before posting a new topic or if one gets stymied, we suggest that the SEARCH function be used.  It is in the UPPER RIGHT.  Use a key word like REFRIGERATOR.  There is a dropdown menu if you click (once) on EVERYWHERE.  The first approach is usually to select TOPICS.  Every post that has your keyword will be listed.  Then you can select the first one…click and skim and scroll.  If you use the < or BACK ARROW, in your browser, you will return to the original sort and then go to the next post….the one NOT from the Topic you just explored..  repeat until you have found or skimmed all the topics.

The second option is one I frequently use.  There are ways of navigating to our FILES.  I usually need electrical prints.  The KEYWORD will be WIRING as all the files with them have that word to facilitate searching…WIRING….then select FILES..  BINGO…. you will find 3 pages.  Other words such as MAGNUM will get the tutorial file on setting up the inverter using the remote as well as info on it and the default settings. BATTERY is the multipage tutorial on understanding how our deep cycle batteries work, what SOC means, maintenance information, etc.

OK…CLASS DISMISSED….  Play nice during recess.