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2003 HR Navigator 3 AC's


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Our coach has 3 15,000BTU Dometic AC's. Front unit has a 10 button thermostat with only 1 zone. Center AC and rear AC operate on a 2 zone 5 button thermostat. Problem is the thermostat is located in the bedroom while the center AC cools or heats the center area of the coach. Would seem that each AC unit should have their own respective thermostat and be located in the area they cool/heat. During hot weather it isn't as much an issue as during colder weather and we use the heat pump cycle. Is it feasible to install another thermostat for the center AC?

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Your center A/C has a remote thermostat located either in the bathroom or the kitchen/living room.  They are round white plastic vent covers with 2 screws holding it to the wall.  

Your front A/C was replaced from the original and has the new style Comfort Control thermostat.  

Edited by vito.a
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Each unit should have it's own temperature sensor. I only have 2 units on 1 thermostat. The front unit (zone 1) works off of the sensor that is in the t-stat because it is up front. The rear unit has a separate temperature sensor (zone 2) in the bedroom. 

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9 hours ago, vito.a said:

Your front A/C was replaced from the original and has the new style Comfort Control thermostat.  

You are correct, the previous owner replaced the front unit with a new one and installed a new 10 button thermostat. I had 3 soft starts installed on the AC's to lesson the start up current load. 

I appreciate all the feedback and have scoured the coach for the temperature sensor for the center unit but have not yet found it. Will keep looking. If I have to replace the center unit and install a new unit will I need to upgrade to a 10 button thermostat? If I do will the rear AC be able to run from the newer design?

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11 hours ago, Russ R said:

Each unit should have it's own temperature sensor. I only have 2 units on 1 thermostat. The front unit (zone 1) works off of the sensor that is in the t-stat because it is up front. The rear unit has a separate temperature sensor (zone 2) in the bedroom. 

That’s interesting my 02 Windsor is just the opposite. I don’t like the rear unit sensing from the 10 button Dometic stat while on cooling because it short cycles, it doesn’t take long for it to satisfy. I’ve tried pointing the vents away from the stat some and has very little affect.

Edited by tmw188
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Bill, when the time comes to replace your old middle or rear A/C you will need to make some choices.  The new A/C units are not compatible with the old 5 button thermostat. 

You can replace both A/C units with new and use a new 10 button thermostat.  

You can try to find a retrofit control board for your new A/C and use it with your old 5 button thermostat, but these boards have been difficult to find.    

You could move the front A/C to the back and then pair it with a new A/C and your 10 button thermostat.  Then move your remaining old A/C and 5 button thermostat to the front so it is operating by itself.   

Hope this helps.

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It has been my experience in life that swapping one of the rear to the front, swapping out thermostats to "hang on" to an "old 5 button thermostat" is not being proactive but rather reactive. The front is relatively new, works very well and I have no issues with it. The rear or bedroom unit works very well as it probably has the lowest use of the two rear units. The center unit is used the most, especially the heat pump cycle. If I have issues with either AC unit I will bite the bullet and replace both units as well as installing a new thermostat. On my last RV (5th wheel) I swapped out the 5 button for a Micro-Air and after the learning curve I really liked them. Your thoughts on a Micro-Air for running the two rear AC's? Otherwise I could just install another 10 button thermostat and keep everything uniform.

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13 hours ago, Joint Venture said:

You are correct, the previous owner replaced the front unit with a new one and installed a new 10 button thermostat. I had 3 soft starts installed on the AC's to lesson the start up current load. 

I appreciate all the feedback and have scoured the coach for the temperature sensor for the center unit but have not yet found it. Will keep looking. If I have to replace the center unit and install a new unit will I need to upgrade to a 10 button thermostat? If I do will the rear AC be able to run from the newer design?

Here is the print.  YES, there IS a sensor.  Now WHERE....who knows.  NOW, did Monaco forget it?  MAYBE....that happens.  NOW to the rest of your questions.

First...  when you convert or upgrade the rear system (hall and bedroom), they are on ONE Thermostat.  So, you must (OK, you COULD do it piecemeal, but you would have to purchase the Conversion Control Module....and us the old thermostat....which is no longer available new and they are $150 as Refurbished (NW RV Supply).  YES, MicroAir makes on.  BUT, it is not a DUAL purpose.  So, spend $250 - $300 and chose your poison.  If you put in a NEW unit and keep an old one.  Then you buy the Conversion kit ($200 or so) and pay an hour or so to have it installed.  Then, if the 5 button fails....you can replace it with an NEW "Microair" 5 button...  BUT, then when you eventually upgrade...it is trash (unless you can peddle it on ebay).

So, MOST bite the bullet and put in a NEW 10 Button CC2 (control system....different from the old 5 button CC) and two new units. 

YES....they have to be installed with the Interconnection data cable.  

BUT....IF you could run a data cable down through or on a wall (wire mold) and get it hooked up to the CENTER unit....that would be a separate 10 Button and it would work alone.  You would NOT hook up the data cable.

The system is a complex multiplex.....so that hard wiring was not needed.  The Thermostat is powered by the Control Module.  The system has to be configured or "reset" to make it work.  Then after programming, it will work until there is a Data Cable breech or open circuit.  Fix that....reset it and good to go.

Yes, you CAN run a Micro-Air (Microair) and it will work on multiple systems....just like the 5 button does.  BUT, be advised....Microair does NOT troubleshoot or provide tech support for a "faulty" Penguin installation.  Dometic does not provide tech support for anything but the UNITS.  If you have a Microair, then all they will tell you is to make sure they are wired up properly.  

My CHOICE....I will pop for BOTH front and back (only 2) and stick with the Dometic 10 button.  That way, if there is ever a problem, I or the tech can get FULL support from Dometic.  If it is a failed Microair Thermostat, they will say....NOT OURS....GOODBYE.  We have had issues where a Microair system was funky.  Microair agreed to ship a new Thermostat.  BUT, the member got info here and found out.  NOT A THERMOSTAT.  He was given help and swapped one of the control systems.  BINGO....the problem moved to the other unit.  SO, he installed a NEW control module.  If he had been paying a tech...I do NOT know how it would have been done.

So, that is the options.  Look at the print.  It is pretty straight forward.  If Monaco DID short you....then you can purchase the Remote (very reasonable) and run it up to the control unit.  It plugs in.  

Hope this helps.

2003 HVAC Dyn Exec Nav Sig.pdf

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10 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

My CHOICE....I will pop for BOTH front and back (only 2) and stick with the Dometic 10 button.  That way, if there is ever a problem, I or the tech can get FULL support from Dometic.  

Found the sensor, mounted under the medicene cabinet above sink in shower room. Reading your post I see a lot of thought and wisdom here. Since my front unit already works well with the Dometic 10 button thermostat I will follow "My CHOICE" and keep it simple and easy to troubleshoot. Thank you for the prints and advice.

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1 hour ago, Joint Venture said:

Found the sensor, mounted under the medicene cabinet above sink in shower room. Reading your post I see a lot of thought and wisdom here. Since my front unit already works well with the Dometic 10 button thermostat I will follow "My CHOICE" and keep it simple and easy to troubleshoot. Thank you for the prints and advice.

You are most welcome.  YES, I do tend to be a bit prejudiced....BUT if a member fully understands how to install and operate and trouble shoot the Dometic system, then the alternative thermostat, which some like the features of, is their choice.

But, if you are dealing with the run of the mill tech and put in aftermarket components, which that individual MAY not be familiar with and the tech has to discuss with Dometic....the learning curve, which you, the owner, are paying for may resemble Mount Everest....or a BIG PILE OF LOOT.

Glad that you have a better insight....Glad that you have located the sensor.  We have had a LOT of folks with a lot of knowledge tell us...  "This or that ain't there"....and finally, come back.  Yes it was.....and that fixed it.

So, we, the staff, try to use the prints as the "start here" and also inject, when we feel confident, our own knowledge and experience and do a little "Teaching".  That is part of our satisfaction.  We enjoy helping folks...

Now you know....and you can plan accordingly and understand the options.

Reread your post.  The soft starts "extend" the life of an AC unit when the current gets too high....and the breaker would "Trip".  There have been many discussions about adding a Soft Start as a Preventative when a new unit is installed.  Based on everything that we have found on line and comments from folks with a lot of HVAC experience, there is no formal study or data measurement that would say..."Yep, them Soft Starts kept my AC running for 40 years"...  Pardon my sarcastic approach to teaching.  BUT, if you have them, then I would install them....assuming they are functional and not damaged.  OR, one could run with the existing capacitors....and hold them in reserve so that if one ever had, say 10 years from now, an issue, then they could be installed.  From what we know and can read and can "trust", there is no "lessening" of the startup current so the motor is not being "babied"....  Judgement call.  I am sort of a "this is the way my brain works".  If the new capacitor works....leave it in".  THEN, when it gets old or it has a premature failure....my soft start has less run time and should be more effective and then, as the unit ages, it will give me more life.  BUT....if someone has more insight and experience....and posts that....  That is how we all learn.

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In the next couple of months I will select an RV repair shop that has the expertise to install 2 new Dometic Penguin II 15,000 BTU W/ Heat Pump and replace the existing thermostat with a 10 button Dometic CC2 version. This will make all 3 of my AC units and thermostats the same. Yes it's costly but it's being proactive rather then reactive and I can afford it. Now looking for a top notch repair facility to do the work that is located in southern states and not in California. Buying this coach was a totally new experience for me and i spent hours researching models, drive trains, brands and options. The HR we purchased kind of fell into our lap so to speak and we liked it for many reasons. Spending a few bucks to make it "ours" has been part of the journey. I appreciate all of the wisdom, advice and suggestions I have received on this forum and others I read to improve my education. Thank You very much.

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8 hours ago, tmw188 said:

Where in the southern states are you thinking, that would get some referrals. Sometimes a reputable one man mobile service might be better, low overhead and no rush to get the job completed under the company’s time frame. Just a thought. 

I'll be leaving Cambridge, OH Nov 1st. Plan on a month in Springfield, MO and then onto Gulfport, MS for a month. After that on to TX, NM and AZ. A month in each state. No particular locations either. Not against a reputable one man mobile service but they need to be able to do a complete job with a new thermostat change over. Generally pay cash for a good job.

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Well, if you head up I95 and get into NC, hang a left on I40 W.  Frank’s RV is the only person that will swap mine.  He has done a 3 unit swap for another member and all is well.  Small shop. Book early.  Very conscientious and knowledgeable.  Listed in Clayton, NC.  Easy to find.

 

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1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

Well, if you head up I95 and get into NC, hang a left on I40 W.  Frank’s RV is the only person that will swap mine.  He has done a 3 unit swap for another member and all is well.  Small shop. Book early.  Very conscientious and knowledgeable.  Listed in Clayton, NC.  Easy to find.

 

Checked out his web site and he appears to be well qualified and sent him an email for a price quote & time frame that he could do the install. Thanks for the tip.

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11 hours ago, tmw188 said:

Look up NRVC National RV Centers I think they might be in your travel route and I believe their reviews are good around their locations. But are probably high because of their size.  

Appreciate the suggestion. We are in fact going thru 3 of their locations and will send them a request for a quote.

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17 minutes ago, bgfleck said:

When replacing A/C units if yours have remote drains, (they don't drain in the roof), you'll need to purchase the remote drain kits. Don't ask how I know. LOL

All 3 of my AC units have remote drains. Thanks for the heads up about the need to purchase remote drain kits.

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