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Refrigerator outside vent cover


Hancoman

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No help to you now, but, I have fans attached to my covers, so in order to not have to disconnect their wires when I remove the covers, I attached a pair of 12" stainless fishing leaders to each cover.

If mine ever came off, they would be flapping around, but they would stay with the coach!

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6 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

No help to you now, but, I have fans attached to my covers, so in order to not have to disconnect their wires when I remove the covers, I attached a pair of 12" stainless fishing leaders to each cover.

If mine ever came off, they would be flapping around, but they would stay with the coach!

That's a good idea,  I have a fan there too and plenty of fishing stuff. Have a pic of the attachment?

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Since you have converted to a residential fridge, you will want to insulate and enclose the original vent opening.  The best option is to remove the entire plastic housing and replace with an aluminum panel with an insulated segment to fit the opening.  That is on my "to do" list, but has not been done yet.

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I converted to a residential frig.  What is the purpose for blocking off that vent?  Seems as if the airflow would help keep the rear of the frig cooler and thus the coils cooler.  Thanks.

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1 hour ago, 2003 Dynasty said:

I converted to a residential frig.  What is the purpose for blocking off that vent?  Seems as if the airflow would help keep the rear of the frig cooler and thus the coils cooler.  Thanks.

The new residential refrigerators will malfunction and shut down if the temperature outside drops into the low 30’s or so.  When the conversion was done, ALL the insulation around the gas refrigerator or on the walls should have been removed.  It was there to protect the interior from carbon monoxide poisoning…PRIMARY reason.

You insulate the roof vent from the top.  Use batts or whatever to close it off.  You insulate the cover…cut foam wedges and use HVAC and Duct tape. You insulate the louvers in the frame…if there are open spaces.

The insulation around the old gas unit kept you from loosing the heated for cooled air as well. Leaving the cover open and the vent (roof) open is like opening a window on one side and opening a window on the other….  Think about how that would impact the HVAC or furnace systems.

The side walls and top and under the residential refrigerator needs AIR FLOW.  That is why you do NOT need insulation.  Many home refrigerators are next to a wall and have a cabinet on the other side.  They work fine.

This is the way that NOW, the OEM refrigerator comes from the factory.  I had mine installed in the mountains of NC.  The first night, it dropped to 28.  Shut OFF.  The Samsung “locks up” . It does NOT cool.  Have to unplug…wait a few minutes….plug back in.  A few hours later….OFF.  Nursed it through the night. Worked fine during the day.  Got home.  Insulated the top (have a side vent…not a roof….same deal).  Insulated the back lower vent. Called Samsung and they sent out a REAL FACTORY Samsung tech. He laughed. Folks put the newer Energy Star refrigerators on back porches or in garages.  He says when it gets cold….they quit.  Does about 10 them in the fall.  That was 7 years ago.  Have used the MH for about 6 months out….and in some cold temps….and heat. No issues.

Now, if you want a freezer for the garage or back porch, you have to order an “all weather” or COLD weather model.  Lowes in the mountains of NC always stock them.  They are NOT the same as the normal freezers….price we pay for uograding the eddiciency. The compressors don’t run at extreme temps and are designed for INDOOR normal ambient temperatures.

INSULATE….

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