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2009 Camelot 42PDQ Driver Side Bedroom Slide Clicks, then works sometimes


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just attempted to open up driver side bedroom slide. never a problem before. Slide moved 6" then the clicking sound started (used to hearing it when slide fully in or out). After several attempts, in and out, slide did finally fully extend. Don't know where to start? This slide has been opened only 3 or 4 times in last few years. Coach is plugged in, newer batteries. Thanks in advance!

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The clicking noise is the clutch slipping as it is supposed to do when it encounter resistance at end of travel. But yours is encountering resistance before reaching end of limit. 
 

I’m sure you have inspected along the floor where the bed box goes across the floor to make sure nothing is in the way. It would be good to look against the wall when the bed slide is all the way in. I put shoes along side of bed box and have them get in the way of the bed slide fully extending. 
 

Another place of high resistance is when the bed box rollers dig into the bottom of the bed box, leaving wood splinters to be seen on the carpet when the slide is all the way extended. Many of us have put a steel plates along the roller path on the bottom of the bed box.

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23 minutes ago, Happycarz said:

The clicking noise is the clutch slipping as it is supposed to do when it encounter resistance at end of travel. But yours is encountering resistance before reaching end of limit. 
 

I’m sure you have inspected along the floor where the bed box goes across the floor to make sure nothing is in the way. It would be good to look against the wall when the bed slide is all the way in. I put shoes along side of bed box and have them get in the way of the bed slide fully extending. 
 

Another place of high resistance is when the bed box rollers dig into the bottom of the bed box, leaving wood splinters to be seen on the carpet when the slide is all the way extended. Many of us have put a steel plates along the roller path on the bottom of the bed box.

Piggy backing on Harry’s explanation…which I was typing…

This system is pretty robust.  But….if you have something that is binding on the inside, like a box wedged on the other side of the bed…TROUBLE.

The next place….inside the bed box.  If some “Monaco” left over assembly debris just sort of “wandered” or vibrated around….then it can jamb the mechanism.

https://support.lci1.com/electric-bed-slides

There are TWO rollers that the slide moves on.  The back one is maybe 18 - 24” towards the front (measured from the slide”. The front one is maybe 6”.

These rollers are rubber covered.  They MUST Rotate freely.  

My experience and I have almost 70K and we used the motor home a lot….would stay out for 6 weeks per season…snd average maybe 2.5 nights per stay…

I hit a BUMP or maybe “curbed a tire”.  That JOLT caused the slide to go up and slam down.  The rear roller “dented” the underside of the slide….you could see the indent and as you used it….that dent elongated.  I filled that with Bondo and installed the Talin Guardian plates.  

The underside is not even 1/4” thick. A piece of thin plywood with a laminated plastic coating.  

OK……WHAT TO DO?  Lots..

Verify that nothing is on the sides of the slide.  It could be something like s bedroom shoe stuck under the frame.  Look carefully at both sides of the entire frame…lay on your side and look with a flashlight….use a thin metal yardstick and see if there is an obstruction.

Jack up the slide…maybe 1/4”…and verify that the rollers are free turning.  Look under…maybe one roller’ adjustment has dropped down, so the bottom part of the slide is binding or running on the sidewall.  

Take apart the bed….it ain’t that hard…once you get the mattress out and inspect…you have to pull the wood panel where you store stuff….BTW…first look inside the storsge area under the bed….is anything sticking out or got stuck.

 

 

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Posted (edited)

Another Windsor owner had to replace his slideout switch, it was working intermittently

Here's what the bottom of my bedbox looked like when I redid the floor.  I added metal plate and it rolls much easier and is level.  Rolls easy now

Prior to fixing the bedbox I found that the pieces of angle that held bedbox to slide had worked loose, most of the screws had worked their way loose and it actually allowed the slideout to tip back and forth while bringing in/out the slide.  Had to remove the cover over this area under the bed to get at the screws, I replaced with larger and more screws. 

Both of the above help my slide smoother/easier.

Floor bed frame bottom 2.jpg

Floor bed box bottom reinforce.jpg

Edited by jacwjames
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3 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

Another Windsor owner had to replace his slideout switch, it was working intermittently

Here's what the bottom of my bedbox looked like when I redid the floor.  I added metal plate and it rolls much easier and is level.  Rolls easy now

Prior to fixing the bedbox I found that the pieces of angle that held bedbox to slide had worked loose, most of the screws had worked their way loose and it actually allowed the slideout to tip back and forth while bringing in/out the slide.  Had to remove the cover over this area under the bed to get at the screws, I replaced with larger and more screws. 

Both of the above help my slide smoother/easier.

Floor bed frame bottom 2.jpg

Floor bed box bottom reinforce.jpg

Jim has a lot of great information.  My comment on the switch.  Since the slide moves a little bit…6” and the clutch CLICKS….that means the switch is OK.  If it dropped DEAD….no noise….and then started up….bad switch.  Easy to test….the two switches will pop out.  Pull them out.  Label and take a picture of the back of each switch…SWAP THEM.  Odds are, same situation….just my take…

A simple inspection and pictures of the bottom of the sldie..where the roller are or run….  THAT WOULD HELP and focus the recommendations 

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On 5/22/2024 at 10:37 AM, Tom Cherry said:

Piggy backing on Harry’s explanation…which I was typing…

This system is pretty robust.  But….if you have something that is binding on the inside, like a box wedged on the other side of the bed…TROUBLE.

The next place….inside the bed box.  If some “Monaco” left over assembly debris just sort of “wandered” or vibrated around….then it can jamb the mechanism.

https://support.lci1.com/electric-bed-slides

There are TWO rollers that the slide moves on.  The back one is maybe 18 - 24” towards the front (measured from the slide”. The front one is maybe 6”.

These rollers are rubber covered.  They MUST Rotate freely.  

My experience and I have almost 70K and we used the motor home a lot….would stay out for 6 weeks per season…snd average maybe 2.5 nights per stay…

I hit a BUMP or maybe “curbed a tire”.  That JOLT caused the slide to go up and slam down.  The rear roller “dented” the underside of the slide….you could see the indent and as you used it….that dent elongated.  I filled that with Bondo and installed the Talin Guardian plates.  

The underside is not even 1/4” thick. A piece of thin plywood with a laminated plastic coating.  

OK……WHAT TO DO?  Lots..

Verify that nothing is on the sides of the slide.  It could be something like s bedroom shoe stuck under the frame.  Look carefully at both sides of the entire frame…lay on your side and look with a flashlight….use a thin metal yardstick and see if there is an obstruction.

Jack up the slide…maybe 1/4”…and verify that the rollers are free turning.  Look under…maybe one roller’ adjustment has dropped down, so the bottom part of the slide is binding or running on the sidewall.  

Take apart the bed….it ain’t that hard…once you get the mattress out and inspect…you have to pull the wood panel where you store stuff….BTW…first look inside the storsge area under the bed….is anything sticking out or got stuck.

 

 

Thanks for the information! Limited time to check the coach, however I did close and reopen the slide. It Closed relatively quickly. Opening however took 2 - 3 times longer than closing. Not totally sure I don't have a low voltage issue adding to the problem. I have replaced the house batteries with Lithium, however have not yet changed out the magnum inverter so the batts are only charging to 13.2 volts. Our main awning, since the coach was new, seems to move very slowly and we have been hesitant using it. 

If I am understanding correctly, I have 6 rollers. 4 on the floor for the bed, and 2 raised for the slide out? The steel plate several have installed attaches to the underside of the bed. Correct?

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59 minutes ago, jimtaylorville said:

Thanks for the information! Limited time to check the coach, however I did close and reopen the slide. It Closed relatively quickly. Opening however took 2 - 3 times longer than closing. Not totally sure I don't have a low voltage issue adding to the problem. I have replaced the house batteries with Lithium, however have not yet changed out the magnum inverter so the batts are only charging to 13.2 volts. Our main awning, since the coach was new, seems to move very slowly and we have been hesitant using it. 

If I am understanding correctly, I have 6 rollers. 4 on the floor for the bed, and 2 raised for the slide out? The steel plate several have installed attaches to the underside of the bed. Correct?


What Dennis says makes sense.  BUT, there are some issues with the 2009 Camelot that you need to be aware of.  As an Owner of one and the tale of tears that cost several thousand dollars to fix...but I finally resolved it...this is what I recommend.

First.  Low batteries will damage a motor.  The motor is trying to pull the max torque.  When the voltage drops....the current draw will spike up.  That then puts the motor at risk of heat damage. My front Hydraulic system motor burned out.  More on that later and there is an ERROR in the FRB of the Camelots that need to be corrected...

NOW.  This is what I would do first.

Take a set of Jumper cables and jumper between the House and the Chassis.  DO BOTH SIDES.  If you have a faulty (Corroded) Ground, that will cause a voltage drop. I had this.  SO, Positive to Positive and Negative to Negative.  NOW run the rear slide and see how it works.  From what you said about the clutch clicking, I think that Dennis is right.  BUT, if you have an obstruction, then you clutch could be fine and replacing that would be futile.

Your comments about your awning concern me.  I had the same issue.  I spent days trouble shooting trying to find out why the house voltage up front to the Hydraulic was about a half volt low...and then under load...it really DROPPED.  I had ordered a new Hydraulic package from Lippert.  I installed a Blue Seas Battery Selector Switch so I could operate the front slides on Chassis OR House.  They worked faster, visibly so, on Chassis...  Then, one day, I was doing some cleaning and such and found that the House Switch had a voltage drop.  I had tested that, and measured that, UNDER LOAD (the proper way) but the intermittent was "Bounce Related".  The switch would be fine....drive it and you never knew. SO, that is on my list of TO DO's.  

NOW...if there is NO change in the rear slide....and it continues to click, then odds are "MECHANICAL".  As to the rollers.  I have NOT had my bed side apart.  As I said, there are only TWO ROLLERS that the underside of the house runs on.  They are at least 10" or so wide.  You can look under with a flashlight and pull back the seal and easily see them.  IF ONE IS CANTED....That is a major issue.

NOW...if you Chassis batteries are WEAK...then the next test is to turn OFF BOTH Disconnects.  Take your Vehicle and use Jumper Cables from the Battery to the HOUSE.  Connect them on both ends.  Then start the Vehicle.  THEN turn on BOTH Disconnects.  That protects from Arcing.  NOW run the slides...NO DIFFERENCE...then it is NOT low voltage.  Past that....start checking the rollers and then disassemble the bed. NOW....remove the Jumpers just like you installed.  TURN OFF the Vehicle.  Then turn off the Disconnects.  Then remove the Jumpers..  THEN turn back on the Disconnects.  BTW.  If you ever need to JUMP the Engine...  THIS IS THE METHOD.  By having the Disconnects OFF...you protect from an arc.  When you turn ON the Disconnects...that is a POSITIVE ON...not the arcing when you put on the clamps...  

NOW....I would personally REPLACE the Blue Seas House Switch.  Not a hard job.  Not expensive.  I spent a lot of time and should have...as a common sense thing...done that.  

Next.  There are TWO Ground Cables behind the Battery box (as you shinny under). I lost my Genny as in NOT starting.  Simple.  The studs were corroded.  LOOKED GREAT.  BUT, I measured and there was a HIGH RESISTANCE.  Remove the two nuts...clean up and "shine" the terminals and the chassis.  Re attach.  That is GOOD Preventative Maintenance (PM).

Next.  Up Front, there is a 150 Amp Circuit Breaker in the lower Left.  Monaco GOOFED.  In 2008, they have an 80 Amp.  Your Hydraulic motor is FLA 65 Amps.  Monaco intended to add a second hydraulic unit for the Genny.  OPPS....they got ahead in their wiring.  They installed (it is on the PRINTS) a 150 Amp.  That Breaker never tripped and I burned up the hydraulic motor.  Put this in Amazon.

80 Amp Automotive Circuit Breaker with Manual Reset Switch Button12V - 48V DC, Waterproof 80A

Amazon sells these for $26.  The brand is T Tocas....and I THINK that is exactly the same brand.  Otherwise, if you have the DREADED Lippert Motor CONNECTION...you will have issues.  Look at the Lippert Motor on the Hydraulic unit.  There is a Solenoid above it.  Check the terminals on the solenoid...clean and tighten... 

The MOTOR is tricky...and it took a while.  Pull OFF the cables.  Then NOTICE the nuts on the studs or bolts.  CAREFULLY put a wrench or socket on them...and TIGHTEN.  Do NOT overtorque...like you can do on a steel ground stud.. just tighten and probably you will get up to half a turn...it needs to be snug.  The other side of the stud is a recatangular head that fits into a terminal block. IF there is looseness or play, the head slips around or back and forth.  That was what burned up my motor.  SO....snug down the locking nuts on the studs.  Then put the cables back on.  I tighten my NEW motor about once every 2 years.

That's it..  

Good Luck...  Let us know what happens...

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On 5/23/2024 at 6:16 PM, Tom Cherry said:


What Dennis says makes sense.  BUT, there are some issues with the 2009 Camelot that you need to be aware of.  As an Owner of one and the tale of tears that cost several thousand dollars to fix...but I finally resolved it...this is what I recommend.

First.  Low batteries will damage a motor.  The motor is trying to pull the max torque.  When the voltage drops....the current draw will spike up.  That then puts the motor at risk of heat damage. My front Hydraulic system motor burned out.  More on that later and there is an ERROR in the FRB of the Camelots that need to be corrected...

NOW.  This is what I would do first.

Take a set of Jumper cables and jumper between the House and the Chassis.  DO BOTH SIDES.  If you have a faulty (Corroded) Ground, that will cause a voltage drop. I had this.  SO, Positive to Positive and Negative to Negative.  NOW run the rear slide and see how it works.  From what you said about the clutch clicking, I think that Dennis is right.  BUT, if you have an obstruction, then you clutch could be fine and replacing that would be futile.

Your comments about your awning concern me.  I had the same issue.  I spent days trouble shooting trying to find out why the house voltage up front to the Hydraulic was about a half volt low...and then under load...it really DROPPED.  I had ordered a new Hydraulic package from Lippert.  I installed a Blue Seas Battery Selector Switch so I could operate the front slides on Chassis OR House.  They worked faster, visibly so, on Chassis...  Then, one day, I was doing some cleaning and such and found that the House Switch had a voltage drop.  I had tested that, and measured that, UNDER LOAD (the proper way) but the intermittent was "Bounce Related".  The switch would be fine....drive it and you never knew. SO, that is on my list of TO DO's.  

NOW...if there is NO change in the rear slide....and it continues to click, then odds are "MECHANICAL".  As to the rollers.  I have NOT had my bed side apart.  As I said, there are only TWO ROLLERS that the underside of the house runs on.  They are at least 10" or so wide.  You can look under with a flashlight and pull back the seal and easily see them.  IF ONE IS CANTED....That is a major issue.

NOW...if you Chassis batteries are WEAK...then the next test is to turn OFF BOTH Disconnects.  Take your Vehicle and use Jumper Cables from the Battery to the HOUSE.  Connect them on both ends.  Then start the Vehicle.  THEN turn on BOTH Disconnects.  That protects from Arcing.  NOW run the slides...NO DIFFERENCE...then it is NOT low voltage.  Past that....start checking the rollers and then disassemble the bed. NOW....remove the Jumpers just like you installed.  TURN OFF the Vehicle.  Then turn off the Disconnects.  Then remove the Jumpers..  THEN turn back on the Disconnects.  BTW.  If you ever need to JUMP the Engine...  THIS IS THE METHOD.  By having the Disconnects OFF...you protect from an arc.  When you turn ON the Disconnects...that is a POSITIVE ON...not the arcing when you put on the clamps...  

NOW....I would personally REPLACE the Blue Seas House Switch.  Not a hard job.  Not expensive.  I spent a lot of time and should have...as a common sense thing...done that.  

Next.  There are TWO Ground Cables behind the Battery box (as you shinny under). I lost my Genny as in NOT starting.  Simple.  The studs were corroded.  LOOKED GREAT.  BUT, I measured and there was a HIGH RESISTANCE.  Remove the two nuts...clean up and "shine" the terminals and the chassis.  Re attach.  That is GOOD Preventative Maintenance (PM).

Next.  Up Front, there is a 150 Amp Circuit Breaker in the lower Left.  Monaco GOOFED.  In 2008, they have an 80 Amp.  Your Hydraulic motor is FLA 65 Amps.  Monaco intended to add a second hydraulic unit for the Genny.  OPPS....they got ahead in their wiring.  They installed (it is on the PRINTS) a 150 Amp.  That Breaker never tripped and I burned up the hydraulic motor.  Put this in Amazon.

80 Amp Automotive Circuit Breaker with Manual Reset Switch Button12V - 48V DC, Waterproof 80A

Amazon sells these for $26.  The brand is T Tocas....and I THINK that is exactly the same brand.  Otherwise, if you have the DREADED Lippert Motor CONNECTION...you will have issues.  Look at the Lippert Motor on the Hydraulic unit.  There is a Solenoid above it.  Check the terminals on the solenoid...clean and tighten... 

The MOTOR is tricky...and it took a while.  Pull OFF the cables.  Then NOTICE the nuts on the studs or bolts.  CAREFULLY put a wrench or socket on them...and TIGHTEN.  Do NOT overtorque...like you can do on a steel ground stud.. just tighten and probably you will get up to half a turn...it needs to be snug.  The other side of the stud is a recatangular head that fits into a terminal block. IF there is looseness or play, the head slips around or back and forth.  That was what burned up my motor.  SO....snug down the locking nuts on the studs.  Then put the cables back on.  I tighten my NEW motor about once every 2 years.

That's it..  

Good Luck...  Let us know what happens...

Rear Driver Side Slide Update:

removed Bed. some wood damage to underside so ordering Talin plates to install on the bed underside. I also noticed the aluminum L channel that attaches bed to the slide all 4 screws were loose. Any problem with drilling new holes and remounting the L channel?  Also, the large slide assembly that the motor is attached to appears to have some sort of rollers and a dry graphite lubricant or similar applied. Suggestions on lube? Thanks again for all suggestions!

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4 minutes ago, jimtaylorville said:

Rear Driver Side Slide Update:

removed Bed. some wood damage to underside so ordering Talin plates to install on the bed underside. I also noticed the aluminum L channel that attaches bed to the slide all 4 screws were loose. Any problem with drilling new holes and remounting the L channel?  Also, the large slide assembly that the motor is attached to appears to have some sort of rollers and a dry graphite lubricant or similar applied. Suggestions on lube? Thanks again for all suggestions!

I’d use common sense and secure the L channel.  Now assume it is on the top surface of the “foam sandwich”.  The bottom of the side is a vacuum formed sandwich. There are cross braces or perlines that run front to back as well side to side.  The entire bottom was “laid up” as a sandwich and pressed together in a big “clamp”.  Then the expanding foam was injected and a vacuum pulled to disperse the foam.  It is not a typical studded wall style panel.  Many members toured the Monaco factory and commented on this.

I’d use either larger screws or belt and suspenders….larger in existing and maybe add one more.  Don’t go longer. I’d call Lippert tech support and get guidance on the lube

The Guardian plates are a little bit of work, but not anything a person with some DIY skills can’t handle.  PM me and I’ll share two tricks that I learned.  Monaco actually, I think, installed the original “covers” or plastic strips on each side….upside down.  I reversed mine.  Much more effective 

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Posted (edited)

I have fixed several bed slides with larger aluminum. Once the aluminum is installed and the bed box brought into place fasten the box to your predrilled aluminum in one of two ways.  If the bed is solid wood, (5) #8 sheet metal screws work great, on each side.  If the bed box has hollow sidewalls, use bolts and nuts with fender washers.

The inner elevator bolts are placed from the inside.

Snapseed.jpeg

IMG_4313.jpeg

Edited by Happycarz
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