Signature Windshield Wiper Control Arm.

[John Van Hengel]

On my way back from picking up the 2006 Monaco Signature, the wipers quit. When I got home I found the nut holding the arms on the motor was missing. I bought a new nut and reattached them and they tested ok. Failed again.
I have the nut tightened down solid. The motor turns, but the shaft rotates in the arm. The motor shaft has some ridges that look worn. I think the nut was loose for a while and rounded out the arm plate.

Is the short connecting arm replaceable?

Do I have to buy a new motor?

[Dr4Film]

I had the same identical problem when picking up our 06 Dynasty in Salt Lake City then two days before arriving back to Florida I had to use the wipers. they worked for a few minutes then on one swipe the entire wiper mechanism quit with the driver's wiper off the window.

I had to drive those last two days without wipers.

After troubleshooting the problem, it appeared that the wiper motor was new based on the paperwork I received and the nut holding the crank to the new motor was fine but the crank arm was stripped out. So it had no splines to grip on.

I ordered a new crank arm from Rome Truck Parts, Rome GA and installed it. It's been fine ever since. You have to remove the old one then read the numbers embossed on it to get the correct crank arm.

If the splines are too damaged on the motor end you will have to replace the motor also.

Edited June 5 by Dr4Film

[nvrtoofast]

A nylon locknut or blue lock-tight wouldn't hurt on the new install either. As a roadside fix to this one time I utilized tin foil around the splines to increase diameter and grab the metal. This works as a roadside fix to get you to a proper fix. The tin foil typically eventually breaks after heavy use, as would be expected. 

[Ron Shantos]

Some may not like this solution, but it works long term.  I had this happen last year on vacation.  I positioned the wiper arm in it's correct position, drilled the ARM & SHAFT and pinned it.  It is still working.....  The down side is that if you ever have to remove or reposition it cutting the shaft will be required.

 

[Georgia Mike]

4 hours ago, Ron Shantos said:

positioned the wiper arm in it's correct position, drilled the ARM & SHAFT and pinned it.

I did the exact same thing over a year ago on the drivers side arm. It stripped twice and then I pinned it. I have used it a lot since and still no play in it at all. 

[Paul J A]

Windshield Wiper Parts

Here are a few sources.

http://www.dieselequipment.com

http://rometruckparts.com/

http://www.amequipment.com/

https://www.wiperparts.com

https://midwestbusparts.com/index.php?main_page

 

Use a 1/4" roll pin in the motor shaft. Also shorter wiper blades, 26"-28" . Easier on the linkage and motor.

[John Van Hengel]

I guess I am unsure how putting a roll pin in it works.

A picture would help.

Thanks.

[Ron Shantos]

Position the wiper arm in the position where you want it on the motor shaft.  Drill a hole the size of the roll pin you select through the wiper arm and the motor shaft.  Use lots of lubricant/oil when drilling. Warning: the wiper motor shaft is a VERY hard material. Insert the roll pin.

Mine has functioned without any problem for over the past year.

Ron

[Paul J A]

44 minutes ago, Ron Shantos said:

Position the wiper arm in the position where you want it on the motor shaft.  Drill a hole the size of the roll pin you select through the wiper arm and the motor shaft.  Use lots of lubricant/oil when drilling. Warning: the wiper motor shaft is a VERY hard material. Insert the roll pin.

Mine has functioned without any problem for over the past year.

Ron

Spot on Ron.

[waterskier_1]

I would first recognize how the system was designed.  The motor shaft is hardened steel.  The wiper arm is soft metal.  I'm not a metallurgist so I don't know the exact composition, and it doesn't matter.  If you look closely under the threaded portion of the motor shaft, you can see what remains of a knurled or "grooved" or "spline" portion of that shaft.  If you take a wire brush, I've even used the tip of a knife, and clean out all the "soft metal" between the grooves, that will prepare the shaft for the wiper arm.  Since the arm is a much softer metal, when you torque down the nut, you will "groove" the inside of the wiper arm hole to match the "splines" of the motor shaft.  This takes a lot more torque that most would apply simply to hold the nut from backing off.  If this works, it will save $100's on replacement parts.  Note that a new wiper arm alone will not solve the problem, since it would still need to be "grooved" by the shaft, which need to be cleaned to expose the "grooves" or "splines" to accept the new arm.

  -Rick N.

[Tom Cherry]

19 minutes ago, waterskier_1 said:

I would first recognize how the system was designed.  The motor shaft is hardened steel.  The wiper arm is soft metal.  I'm not a metallurgist so I don't know the exact composition, and it doesn't matter.  If you look closely under the threaded portion of the motor shaft, you can see what remains of a knurled or "grooved" or "spline" portion of that shaft.  If you take a wire brush, I've even used the tip of a knife, and clean out all the "soft metal" between the grooves, that will prepare the shaft for the wiper arm.  Since the arm is a much softer metal, when you torque down the nut, you will "groove" the inside of the wiper arm hole to match the "splines" of the motor shaft.  This takes a lot more torque that most would apply simply to hold the nut from backing off.  If this works, it will save $100's on replacement parts.  Note that a new wiper arm alone will not solve the problem, since it would still need to be "grooved" by the shaft, which need to be cleaned to expose the "grooves" or "splines" to accept the new arm.

  -Rick N.

Rick and I, I think, on the same page.  There is a reason for the selection of the materials….cost and common sense.  The shaft is made to be HARD.  That way, it stays or doesn’t wear.  Much cheaper to replace an arm. The shaft is turned and machined from STEEL.  Now, “Hardened?”.  Maybe?  A buddy and his lab, if he knew the number or composition of the original steel could tell me, after testing.  BUT it was designed to NOTE WEAR.

OK…the ARM.  I visited one the largest “wiper” manufacturers’ plant many time as I was on a corporate auditing team.  I walked through the processes many times…and consulted for them in two separate areas.  The base, grooved head or what attaches to the shaft was die cast.  Zn or Al….can’t recall.  It was cast.  Then powder coated…. NOTHING metallurgically done to it other than any machining to attach the “rest of it”.

IT WAS DESIGNED that way.  A&M equipment selected that plant to do ALL the development of the arm and blade and such.  It was to FIT on the end of the A&M motor or crossbar shaft….PERIOD.

So, if the soft or “as cast” aluminum or zinc wears or the shaft nut comes loose….the sacrificial member is the ARM.  When one drills that shaft….and that takes a tremendous amount of perseverance….then one should HOPE that there are not burrs in the hole…and that one put in the roll pin and left enough clearance, on the other side or it can be rotated enough to DRIVE OUT the pin…otherwise new motor or shaft….$$$ & LABOR.

The simple thing…save the labor and frustration of drilling.  Mix up a little JB WELD. Put it on the stay.  It breaks or the arm wears out…use a grinder and cut it off….you’ll probably not be able to get enough PRESS FIT on a new arm…nor will it seat and torque down.  The amount of metal in tne grooves, was, NOW WE KNOW, marginal.  Most folks that have followed this saga drop back to 28” blades.  Diesel Supply, which now makes replacements, tested the joint or how the arm engaged….and recommend ONLY 28” blades.   They made some tweaks in the casting and also reduced the drag in the arm design.  They say THEIR arm is now superior….should work with 32” blades….but recommend 28”.

That was what they told me a few years ago….

Just what I know….from being in the factory that made all the A&M arms and blades for at least 10 - 15 years….and talking to and working with the  manufacturing and design engineers…

[John Van Hengel]

Hmmm, I guess I am just not getting it. I could drill a hole though the motor shaft, but I don't see how I could put a hole in the flat crank arm that would line up with the hole in the motor shaft. 
However I lucked out ant it turns out REV had the part, #4 on the diagram PN 10122422 in stock. 

I will use a dremel wire wheel to clean out the splines on the motor shaft. Hopefully that will work. Otherwise the motor is available for $230.

[Tom Cherry]

18 minutes ago, John Van Hengel said:

Hmmm, I guess I am just not getting it. I could drill a hole though the motor shaft, but I don't see how I could put a hole in the flat crank arm that would line up with the hole in the motor shaft. 
However I lucked out ant it turns out REV had the part, #4 on the diagram PN 10122422 in stock. 

I will use a dremel wire wheel to clean out the splines on the motor shaft. Hopefully that will work. Otherwise the motor is available for $230.

OK....it LOOKS like this has MORPHED a bit.  The solutions such as drilling and pinning (you drill through the ARM and then the shaft and THEN the drill comes out on the other side....and you PIN or permanently, essentially, affix the arm to the shaft (which can be either the motor or the crank arm on the other side).

https://revrvparts.com/search?keyword=10122422  NOW folks know WHAT you needed....and the MORPHING about drilling and pinning would NOT have helped....if I understand what you are now saying....

BUT, in the future, you CAN always contact A&M Equipment.  The were the prime supplier.  Their Parts Department has a "LIST" of the YEARS and Models and such of every system they installed.  

They will be MUCH, radically....if my guess is true based on REV...  cheaper.  BUT, to my amazement....REV actually was able to locate the part.  

Folks have called in with MUCH simpler questions and got totally FRUSTRATED and the final line was "You have a LEGACY model, built before REV acquired the Monaco line....SORRY...CLICK".

SO.  Good for you.  @Frank McElroy  This does not per my memory appear to be a high breakage...but it broke.  Think it would be a good candidate for the next PL update.

[Dr4Film]

Part #4 is the crank arm. Curious as to what REV is charging you versus what Rome Truck Parts charged me for mine.

Can you post the amount?

Edited June 6 by Dr4Film

[Tom Cherry]

1 hour ago, Dr4Film said:

Parr #4 is the crank arm. Curious as to what REV is charging you versus what Rome Truck Parts charged me for mine.

Can you post the amount?

Click on the link above….that is the PN & PRICE.  I forgot the amount.

[Dr4Film]

Have no idea what REV will charge for shipping however, their price for the crank arm is totally inflated.

I paid $11.95 for the crank arm and $4.95 for shipping from Rome Truck Parts in GA.

So REV's price is almost double what Rome Truck Parts charges. That's what happens when you buy from a "RV" place versus a place where they don't inflate the price just because it is for a RV.

By the way, I have no idea how this thread got to "drilling and pining" versus what he really needed was a crank arm. I suggested that in my very first post, #2. I guess some people just react versus reading first.

[John Van Hengel]

Thanks Dr4Film,
I will try Rome Truck Part first next time.

John

Tom Cherry,
Could you post a link to A&M Equipment. I tried looking them up and I don't think I am finding the right place.

Thanks,

John