Monacoers Daily News

Thank you for your very thorough recommendations.

Victron equipment is highly rated, although expensive. There are many alternatives now such as EG4. I like some of the newer all in one units now coming out.

I already have some equipment on my travel trailer that I can reuse possibly, a Renogy DC DC charger, a 4000 Giandel inverter, lots of various gauge welding wire, a Victron Smart BMV712 which I love the Bluetooth monitoring, etc. I won't be reusing the 4 Valence lithium batteries but will upgrade to newer batteries, or the 4 Rich 190 solar panels, or the 2 EP Ever solar controllers.

I plan on phasing in the installs a piece at a time.

1. Get a new AGM chassis battery 

2. Get 1 or 2 new heated, or low temp cutoff lithiums to replace the 2 house batteries under the steps.

3. Figure out how to disconnect the chassis, house boost function.

4. Get a PD lithium replacement for the WFCO converter charger.

5. Add the dcdc charger and 712 shunt.

That will be the initial install. After that, I'll consider a separate lithium install to run the AC side of the coach, and eventually solar.

There's a YouTube and site out there called 5112 by Mike Mas that has the AC, DC systems separated, very interesting approach.

Anyhow, thank you so much for taking the time to reply to my post and for your recommendations.

JD

2012 Monaco LaPalma 32SBD gasser

16 hours ago, Mike H said:

I've towed both a 2012 and now a 2019 both with the Eco boost engine BUT they HAVE to be 4x4's.  After 2019 or 2020 they started doing some funky things with the towing set up procedure.  Setting it up to be towed disconnects everything so no milage is recorded.

My 2017 doesn’t record mileage when towed. 

Can you post a picture of the part that is broke?

Thanks.  Mine has a molex as well.  It does seem that I'm not getting 12 v to the 3amp fuse in the unit.  I'll check the pins in the molex next.  Will any rj12 phone cable work to test the thermostat directly at the unit? And how can you tell which port is the one for the thermostat.  Both of them go into that sheathed bundle so I can't tell. 

AC air conditioner block diagram.pdfThe ports are parallel, that is they should be identical. There is no where I can find in my diagrams that have much information. I just did some testing with the breakout box and determined there was voltage on two pins on both of the cables.

My previous post suggest disconnecting both of the RJ cables to do the test directly at the AC unit. There is likely a coupler that connects the short cable from the AC to the thermostat and one to the next AC unit. You should be able to connect to the cable that drops down from the AC unit without even buying a test cable. 

DO NOT grab or buy just any cable. You need to look closely at the diagrams of the pinouts. Holding the connectors next to each other with the locking pin on the bottom the wires should go to the same pins.

There are cables that could easily switch the positive and negative and blow a fuse. The data pins probably don't care but it is possible they are not allowed to be reversed. 

The amazon picture shows the connectors side by side if you can zoom in very close as a reference. 

We just completed our first long trip in our new to us and first Monaco.  2200 miles back to WI for the summer in 5 days. Our previous coach was a 2013 Allegro Bus with the 450 ISL Cummins engine. The difference in performance is significant even though the Monaco is 1000# heavier. Total weight with my Avalanche tagging along was 48,000#. I drove at 63 mph and averaged 7.2 mpg for the trip. I am very happy with that especially fighting a strong cross wind through NM, TX, and OK. At that speed, the 1450 rpm was just above peak torque. It didn't downshift on many of the hills where the 450 ISL would have. The boost would peak out @ 42 psi and just hang in there to the top. It did downshift on some of the steeper long hills in Missouri. The engine and transmission never got to 200 degrees even on the longest hill in 85 degree OAT. Of the seven motorhomes we have owned in the last 25 years, this is the first Monaco and first ISM. We couldn't be happier. Well,,,,,,,,, maybe the ISX or the Detroit engines might have been better, but I'll just make do with this one.  

The truck has 69,000 miles on the odometer with maybe 3,000 miles being towed.  No major mechanical issues, just routine maintenance.  

The truck has 69,000 miles on the odometer with maybe 3,000 miles being towed.  No major mechanical issues, just routine maintenance.  

10 minutes ago, StephenW said:

The truck has 69,000 miles on the odometer with maybe 3,000 miles being towed.  No major mechanical issues, just routine maintenance.  

The coach and truck looked so pretty you had to post twice👍

Funny thing happened on the way to the forum Caesar... came home from a wedding late last weekend to a lock cylinder that the key just turned, nothing happened.  11:30...dark but got out the drill and drilled out the cylinder until I could open with a screwdriver.

Yep after extensive searching lock is no longer available.  ODD non standard bolt throw.  I got a Schlage BN60 and have modified/mated the bolt from the old lock and finishing install this morning.  I did take pics because this is going to be a problem for others someday too....will post later.

I’ve heard the ISM was a great engine. Sounds like you agree! Congrats on your new coach. 

Here are a few pictures. The bolt attaches to a tube.There is a slot in the tube has opened up

 I can fix that. But the plastic bushings are worn.

43 minutes ago, birdshill123 said:

Here are a few pictures. The bolt attaches to a tube.There is a slot in the tube has opened up

 I can fix that. But the plastic bushings are worn.

List of salvage yards parting out Monacos:

https://www.monacoers.org/topic/769-rv-salvage-yards/

As mentioned above, when I replaced the Aqua-Hot I installed brass in-line ball valves in both heater hose lines to the furnace. Since I was already deep into that bay, I located them right near the Aqua-Hot. If I had the luxury of more time to think more broadly, I might have put the valves closer to the engine. As an aside, I also installed small ball valves in the supply and return fuel lines to the furnace, just in case.

Bob. My problem is with the deadbolt. An entrance lever lock uses a spring loaded bolt

 Not the same

 I went to that website and did not find anything

 However I am going to visit a few of the warehouses that supply commercial locks. Might find something. Thanks

.

Thanks Jim J, I’m not sure what I did to make the post duplicate. I thought I only hit the submit button once but my fat fingers might have missed the mark?  

On 5/1/2024 at 8:04 AM, Scotty Hutto said:

Just a reminder that while we let most discussions run their natural course here on Monacoers, the owners, administrators, and moderators reserve the right to remove or hide any post that goes against site rules, including advice that *might* cause others (particularly newer, less experienced members) to endanger themselves.

This is extremely rare, but when the collective group who run the site have discussed it and agree, we will remove a post.  Very rarely will we remove a post based on one person’s opinion (we may hide it until we discuss it as a group); the four of us talk almost daily (some of us more often)

Thank you for your understanding and support on this issue. 
 

Dave Pratt
Scotty Hutto 
Frank McElroy
Tom Cherry 

You do an excellent job.   Thanks for all your work.

Congratulations Doug.

NM crosswinds. Know those well. 

I've never been satisfied with the performance of my ISL 400. Trucks with similar horsepower go by me like I'm parked. I understand that they are larger displacement engines with more torque. I don't know why Cummins phased out the very reliable ISM. Seems like the perfect displacement for a midrange engine. 

5 hours ago, vipeboy2000 said:

Thanks.  Mine has a molex as well.  It does seem that I'm not getting 12 v to the 3amp fuse in the unit.  I'll check the pins in the molex next.  Will any rj12 phone cable work to test the thermostat directly at the unit? And how can you tell which port is the one for the thermostat.  Both of them go into that sheathed bundle so I can't tell. 

Followup….

First, you will have to go to the drawings and MAYBE start looking at the Pins and the “input” and output side.

@Frank McElroy is our expert on the Dynasty….he has a 2008.  PM HIM.  Odds are he KNOWS exactly which fuse provides the power 

NOW….Myron has given you a lot of help.  BUT….your question is a little “higher level”.

The system, per Dometic design, is configured or “designed” for ONLY one 12 VDC point.  To state another way.  For each group or “section”….you only need ONE of the Control Modules…..wihich is on the Dometic breakdown as “AC Board” or something like that.  BUT, Monaco, chose to run a hard 12 VDC power line to every HVAC Unit.  That is a HARD AND FAST RULE. If I understand your problem…you have no 12 VDC to the front….that is a SINGLE control or single UNIT.  

NOW the rear is a little different…..read and UNDERSTAND this.  The 12 VDC to the front AC is the same “feed” or FUSED  circuit as the rear.  Your rear is a bit tricky.  12 VDC goes to the Rear (Zone 1) and Middle (Zone 2).  BUT THEN…Monaco broke their LOGIC or maybe CHEATED.  There is a Hidden, standalone AC Board buried….it does NOT, per Frank’s digging, a SEPARATE 12 VDC.  It works as ….HEY, here is my Data Communications cable….it gives me 12 VDC on ONE Pair.  I get my Digital MPX command signal from the OTHER Pair.

From a practical or troubleshooting plan, this is HOW I’d DO IT.

Does the REAR Thermostat have Power?  YES….YEA! I didn”t blow the house FUSE….and I know the issue is in the FRONT…

if NO!…the Thermostat is dead.  STOP any further chasing and FIND the HVAC fuse.  It IS on the House Board.

Also, since Myron is an advocate of simplicity…..start reading page 105…it has all I just, in both posts, said and explans howeach zone works.  IT IS NOT a trouble shooting guide….but unless you know the basics….as Myron does…his issues and such and his innate knowledge may not be adequate to help you.

NEXT UP…read section 8.  BUT, the Dynasty does NOT have the “panel” labels in the manual  if yours is missing, all the labels are shown in the print. BE AWARE…you may NOT have an HVAC FUSE LABEL.  My HVAC fuse is labeled “SATELLITE”.  No WHERE is that also shown as HVAC….except in the prints.

NEXT UP.  Here is what I would do….and this ASSUMES that you have found the fuse and have POWER to the rear Thermostat…..BTW…this answers the “HOW TO TEST”.  Look in the trouble Shooting guide….or download the manual for your unit,  towards the back there is section on “how to wire and install”.  Find the Ground and PLUS 12 VDC to the “AC Board”.  I THINK…and wager that the pins or the RJ connector leads, are on the print.  So…VOM on continuity…..use the GROUND connection and then check each of the 4 Pins.  THEN do the same for the 12 VDC…those two PINS are the power.  Members hace pinned out the RJ many  times before.  Think you messed yours up?  Go to the roof and pull the cover off the rear.  Pin out all 4 leads….then see if you have the same upfront. If you fried the board…then the Data Cable will not work.  You CAN swap boards or move the thermostat…..as Myron did.  

BTW….the leads are INTERCHANGEABLE.  The Data cable can come into the Zone 1 rear….to the Thermostat….and the other one goes to the Zone 2.  You can SWAP the cables.  Domietic did that for ease of installation….the Controller is basically a “Parallel” connection….so the two dangling RJ’s will work on either cable,

That’s the way….from knowing the system and helping at least 50 - 100 folks, like yourself, troubleshoot….once you have the basics of how it works,,,,testing is easy.

Good Luck…

Doug; You have a perfect Weight/Horsepower ratio Coach. The ISM or Detroit DD60 are 2 of the best.

A few simple changes to the intake and exhaust components will make a significant improvement to the performance and fuel consumption. 

2 hours ago, Gary Cole said:

Congratulations Doug.

NM crosswinds. Know those well. 

I've never been satisfied with the performance of my ISL 400. Trucks with similar horsepower go by me like I'm parked. I understand that they are larger displacement engines with more torque. I don't know why Cummins phased out the very reliable ISM. Seems like the perfect displacement for a midrange engine. 

Probably was a victim of emissions. 

Thanks for all the ideas and info

On a 2009 Monaco Signature Commander the step slide will not retract.  It appears a switch module adjacent to the passenger seat may have failed.

Does anyone have input on accessing part for 2009 unit?

I have been unsuccessful.

thanks,

Tom Miller

706-669-2363

@Mike H, @StephenW - did you disable the steering wheel lock on your Fords?  If so, how did you accomplish that?

- bob

My 25’ road side super slide goes out crooked, in that the rear moves first, with the front lagging behind 5-6”.  $500 later, two shops & one mobile mechanic have just topped off the fluid and said nothing else to be done.  What say you?

1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

Followup….

First, you will have to go to the drawings and MAYBE start looking at the Pins and the “input” and output side.

@Frank McElroy is our expert on the Dynasty….he has a 2008.  PM HIM.  Odds are he KNOWS exactly which fuse provides the power 

NOW….Myron has given you a lot of help.  BUT….your question is a little “higher level”.

The system, per Dometic design, is configured or “designed” for ONLY one 12 VDC point.  To state another way.  For each group or “section”….you only need ONE of the Control Modules…..wihich is on the Dometic breakdown as “AC Board” or something like that.  BUT, Monaco, chose to run a hard 12 VDC power line to every HVAC Unit.  That is a HARD AND FAST RULE. If I understand your problem…you have no 12 VDC to the front….that is a SINGLE control or single UNIT.  

NOW the rear is a little different…..read and UNDERSTAND this.  The 12 VDC to the front AC is the same “feed” or FUSED  circuit as the rear.  Your rear is a bit tricky.  12 VDC goes to the Rear (Zone 1) and Middle (Zone 2).  BUT THEN…Monaco broke their LOGIC or maybe CHEATED.  There is a Hidden, standalone AC Board buried….it does NOT, per Frank’s digging, a SEPARATE 12 VDC.  It works as ….HEY, here is my Data Communications cable….it gives me 12 VDC on ONE Pair.  I get my Digital MPX command signal from the OTHER Pair.

From a practical or troubleshooting plan, this is HOW I’d DO IT.

Does the REAR Thermostat have Power?  YES….YEA! I didn”t blow the house FUSE….and I know the issue is in the FRONT…

if NO!…the Thermostat is dead.  STOP any further chasing and FIND the HVAC fuse.  It IS on the House Board.

Also, since Myron is an advocate of simplicity…..start reading page 105…it has all I just, in both posts, said and explans howeach zone works.  IT IS NOT a trouble shooting guide….but unless you know the basics….as Myron does…his issues and such and his innate knowledge may not be adequate to help you.

NEXT UP…read section 8.  BUT, the Dynasty does NOT have the “panel” labels in the manual  if yours is missing, all the labels are shown in the print. BE AWARE…you may NOT have an HVAC FUSE LABEL.  My HVAC fuse is labeled “SATELLITE”.  No WHERE is that also shown as HVAC….except in the prints.

NEXT UP.  Here is what I would do….and this ASSUMES that you have found the fuse and have POWER to the rear Thermostat…..BTW…this answers the “HOW TO TEST”.  Look in the trouble Shooting guide….or download the manual for your unit,  towards the back there is section on “how to wire and install”.  Find the Ground and PLUS 12 VDC to the “AC Board”.  I THINK…and wager that the pins or the RJ connector leads, are on the print.  So…VOM on continuity…..use the GROUND connection and then check each of the 4 Pins.  THEN do the same for the 12 VDC…those two PINS are the power.  Members hace pinned out the RJ many  times before.  Think you messed yours up?  Go to the roof and pull the cover off the rear.  Pin out all 4 leads….then see if you have the same upfront. If you fried the board…then the Data Cable will not work.  You CAN swap boards or move the thermostat…..as Myron did.  

BTW….the leads are INTERCHANGEABLE.  The Data cable can come into the Zone 1 rear….to the Thermostat….and the other one goes to the Zone 2.  You can SWAP the cables.  Domietic did that for ease of installation….the Controller is basically a “Parallel” connection….so the two dangling RJ’s will work on either cable,

That’s the way….from knowing the system and helping at least 50 - 100 folks, like yourself, troubleshoot….once you have the basics of how it works,,,,testing is easy.

Good Luck…

 

Thanks! So there is a hidden rear thermostat? or are you saying on yours there is.. My single thermostat controls all 4 zones in ours. I believe i found the a/c control fuse, tied in with my bedroom ceiling fan and doorbell.. that fuse and all the other fuses are fine in my bedroom wardrobe panel, FRB and RRB. 

Good to know that the connections for the data /therm cables don't really matter. Thanks!

So I  THINK I have narrowed it down to either damaged front board or somehow the thermostat... I will check power going to the board either tonight or tomorrow.. Have downloaded and read and will re-read all those troubleshooting documents many many times as I go through each item this weekend. I do have one control board and a new Micro air thermostat on order as well to cover my bases (hopefully they arrive soon) 


Thanks guys so much. 

I was experiencing leaking from the bottom of the AC/Heater core box attached to the firewall of the coach.  

See below, the rust that has developed  on the firewall where the AC/Heat box attaches.

I noticed a drip after a days travel last fall when we had to use chassis heat one morning. 

Heater/AC evap box removed: 

I pulled the heater core, plugged one side and applied pressure, 25 psig, and no leaks were evident. The core released pressure when I removed the air.  I was expecting to see something in the area below.  The only rusty area on the entire core. 

I increased pressure to 35 psig and experienced the same result. 

What kind of pressures does this system operate at during normal conditions?   I wondering where else this leak could be coming from?

Should I increase pressure and test again?

The AC seems to drain well, I notice the drips on the pavement when that system is running, so I doubt this rust is caused from the AC evaporating.  

From the date code this appears to be the original heater core.  Someone has been in here before; new hardware and broken box flanges were found. 

Thanks!!

30 minutes ago, cbr046 said:

@Mike H, @StephenW - did you disable the steering wheel lock on your Fords?  If so, how did you accomplish that?

- bob

 

On my 2019 the procedure is as follows:

1. Press the START button without starting the engine
2. Shift to NEUTRAL
3. Press and HOLD the brake pedal then rotate the 4x4 control knob five times from 2 wheel to 4 wheel drive
4. Message shows up on the dash display saying "Vehicle is now ready for towing"
5. Press the START button again without starting the engine
6. Be prepared to select which security alarm mode you desire

You should really check you owner's manual, especially for the newer models, because Ford changed that procedure on the new trucks.

Here are the instructions from the manual for a 2013 model year.

1. Turn the ignition to the on position. Do not start the engine.
2. Press and hold the brake pedal.
3. Shift the 4WD switch to 2H.
4. Shift the transmission to position N.
5. Rotate the 4WD switch from 2H to 4L and back to 2H five times
within seven seconds.
• If completed successfully, the information display shows
NEUTRAL TOW LEAVE IN N or NEUTRAL TOW ENABLED
LEAVE TRANSMISSION IN NEUTRAL. This indicates that
your vehicle is safe to tow with all wheels on the ground.
• If you do not see the message in the display, you must perform
the procedure again from the beginning.
• You may hear an audible noise as the transfer case shifts into its
neutral position. This is normal.
6. Leave the transmission in position N and turn the ignition as far as it
will go toward the off position (it will not turn fully off when the
transmission is in position N. You must leave the key in the ignition
while towing. To lock and unlock your vehicle, use the keyless entry
keypad or extra set of keys.
7. Release the brake pedal

So key stays in ignition with it turned all the way off. 

Check your manual, there should be a section on the pressure to charge the AC system. 

Not sure what the heater core sees for pressure.

48 minutes ago, vipeboy2000 said:

Thanks! So there is a hidden rear thermostat? or are you saying on yours there is.. My single thermostat controls all 4 zones in ours. I believe i found the a/c control fuse, tied in with my bedroom ceiling fan and doorbell.. that fuse and all the other fuses are fine in my bedroom wardrobe panel, FRB and RRB. 

Good to know that the connections for the data /therm cables don't really matter. Thanks!

So I  THINK I have narrowed it down to either damaged front board or somehow the thermostat... I will check power going to the board either tonight or tomorrow.. Have downloaded and read and will re-read all those troubleshooting documents many many times as I go through each item this weekend. I do have one control board and a new Micro air thermostat on order as well to cover my bases (hopefully they arrive soon) 


Thanks guys so much. 

Too much verbiage….  My fault.  Each system is unique.  The manual shows TWO thermostats.  OK….you got ONE.

SO…simple.  Data cable starts at the Thermostat. Runs to the front.  Then, presumably to the middle.  It MAY loop down into that rabbit hole called Zone 4….then back to the Bedroom.  The HIDDEN device is a Standalone Controller. There is NO HIDDEN THERMOSTAT….just a BURIED Controlled. There will be THREE “wall” or under counter “REMOTE TEMPERATURE SENSORS.  The front Thermostat is USUALLY the one for the front.  Now JUST TO DRIVE YOU CRAZY….SOME Patriot Thunders ( a Dynasty Clone)….actually had an UP FRONT remote temp sensor….so the MAIN Thermostat got a reading from each one.

OK….now be ready to learn SOME MORE.

If you call Dometic and say….HELP ME….it don’t work….then tell them you do NOT have a complete Dometic system….as in the OEM 5 Button Thermostat….they will say.  Sorry…..we only offer help for a Dometic system.

Call MicroAir….tell them NO WORK.  Sorry, we do NOT know or provide help on a NON FUNCTIONAL Dometic control system.  Your existing Dometic system MUST be functional.  YES… I called and asked….  We have had Members that had a MicroAir.  One unit failed.  The MicroAir folks said….send back (still under warranty).  The member was sharp enough and followed the help here.  OPPS.  He had a FAILED controller.

NOW, that you have given out MORE information….I would proceed as follows.

Remove the Thermostat.  You’re gonna replace it anyway or maybe NOT.  ASSUMING you have power to the fuse….and we don’t know that.  Here is the way.

Go UP TOP….rear UNIT.  Follow the wiring.  Find the INCOMING 12 VDC.  MEASURE and VERIFY that you have 12 VDC there.  Then unplug, downstairs, both cables.  Mark the mating ones if you want….does NOT matter.

Then….Plug in the Thermostat to any of the two CONTROLLER cables (NOT the ones connecting the zones.  NOW reset the Thermostat per instructions.  If it WORKS…..NOT A THERMOSTAT issue. 

OK….keep going.  Pull the control unit out,  take it to the front. Take a picture of the DIP switches….and set the REAR ONE just like the Front.  Go downstairs.  Plug in the Thermostat like in the rear.  If it works….bad controller. IF NOT….something is wrong in the AC unit…and if you can’t figure it out….call or get a tech.

You have to isolate which component is bad….and until you do the above, you are guessing as well as getting frustrated.

Texted you and will help off line

r

Has every one of them had to top it off? Is the front side also behind the same when retracting? And what type of hydraulic system is it, assuming it has a synchronizing cylinder?

Are the labels lit up on the switch module rockers?  If not, press and hold the Dimmer + rocker to make them brighter.  If all the rocker labels light, then the switch module is likely good.  If the switch module does not light up, send me a PM (I can repair Eaton multiplex dash switch modules).

If the switch module does light up, check the step cover fuse and associated relays in the FRB (Front Run Bay) below the driver's seat. (By step slide, I'm assuming you mean step slide cover.)

27000652_B Vehicle Cabin PCB.pdf

Heater core pressure should not exceed the engine radiator cap rating. You would likely know it it was coolant leaking. Leaky evaporator would be nasty oily. Condensation is a nature of beast.

Thanks guys, I'm confident the AC evaporator is good, the AC works well and holds pressue, just had it serviced last September.  

Im just surprised I didnt see an obvious leak with the heater core.   I may be a little low on test pressure, I'll check the cap and see if there's any info. 

The cap will be half or less of your test pressure unless stuck and you would be likely having other leaks at that point 

The 20 amp fuse labeled SCER (step cover extend retract), relays SCE (step cover extend) and SCR (step cover retract) are circled in red and are on the large PCB in the FRB.

Replacement for Panasonic Pop out radio
JerryC 11 hours ago

Replacement for Panasonic Pop out radio
Ivan K 9 hours ago

You seem to be looking for this box. Pretty good size, maybe 10"x6" or so. Mine was behind the center console, with probably 10+lbs of rolled up cables attached to it. All the speaker connections were in one large connector.

Replacement for Panasonic Pop out radio
JerryC 9 hours ago

Reviving this old topic. My new to me 02 Sig has a four piece Panasonic system, which I’m working to RIP. I’ve already replaced the old see vision with a completely separate camera system. Challenge, This system has a display screen unit and a nav unit in the front dash with a CD changer in an overhead cabinet. It also has a control unit… somewhere. In a place I haven’t found yet. The control unit appears to be amp and is what the speakers are wired to some need to find it. Any ideas on where it may be hidden would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Ivan! I looked there and found a speaker, the block for the see vision thing that no longer exists and only floor.it looks like there could be room behind the drawer that seems to be in a metal box or maybe behind the entire console. How far did you have to disassemble?

Slide goes out crooked
johncvandoren@gmail.com 9 hours ago

Well, the first two shops charged me to do so, but I didn’t see what they did—or did not do. The independent tech just checked & said it was OK.  Of course, it did not malfunction then, but did next day.  No, it retracts evenly.  What I’d like to know is if there is some sort of shuttle or equalizing valve that can be adjusted.

2006 Knight 40DFD

08 dynasty thermostat issue
MyronTruex 8 hours ago

Remember, just because a fuse looks good, you need to measure voltage on each end while it is in circuit. Check your bedroom fuse panel with a voltmeter.

I discussed my two unit system. The front is the zone 1 on mine. There is 12 volts fed to the molex pin on it. There is NOT 12 volts fed to the rear molex plug on AC zone 2.  There is 12 volts on the blue wires on both of the AC units. This feeds my furnaces.

The 12 volts goes through the molex, into the RJ plug, into the AC control board and there it supplies power though the 3 amp as far as I can tell. If the 3 amp fuse is popped, the thermostat is dead. Does not light up.

Taking the thermostat in hand to the rear one and plugging it in directly it did not light up. I found there was no voltage on that 3 amp fuse in AC unit 2 without the RJ cable bringing voltage to it. So there is no voltage getting to the circuitry needed in my rear one. Until the RJ cable feeds it. So in order to operate my rear ac in an emergency I would have to run power to that molex plug to get the thermostat to power up.

Hope this is clear and simple. 

IF your front AC is the first in line, it needs 12 volts. Until you get that voltage there you are spinning your wheels. 

 

Heater Core or AC Evaporator Issues?
cbr046 8 hours ago

Radiator cap is 14 psi?  Whatever it is, that's the pressure throughout the system.  If it survived 35 psi it's a good heater core.

If it "leaks" make sure your AC compressor isn't engaged and the evaporator isn't forming condensation.  If the AC compressor is on the low pressure tube (the larger diameter one) will be cold and may be sweating.  Easier to touch the tube at the front vs opening the rear bedroom hatch and looking at the AC clutch.

- bob

Slide goes out crooked
Ivan K 8 hours ago

Still don't know what system you have but with my HWH two ram system, both cylinders are t-ed and share the same valves through synchronizing cylinder on one side. No adjustment there, the only time I had it happening was with a leak and then air in the plumbing. Missing fluid would indicate a leak if that was the case. If air, there are bleeding procedures, somewhat messy. Don't know if you might have a mechanical issue effecting only one direction, I have adjustment nuts on ram pistons but they could not explain 6" difference) however air in extend line would be suspect in my case. Holding the button past retract stop might purge it, maybe.

Electric power reel worn out
Warren B 8 hours ago

I had a problem with mine a couple of years ago, and if I remember correctly, Southwire bought Shorline. I found the TRC Southwire RH54331RMK was a perfect replacement.  I see several online sellers have them.

Electric power reel worn out
windsorbill06 8 hours ago

Here's a used one.

Direct Replacement for Trace Legend 1500?
VinceB 8 hours ago

According to the inverter guru at Visone, this is a direct replacement except for the control panel but both units use the same control cable. As far as 2 outputs, he said to just wire the existing 2 circuits to the Xantrex as it is wired to handle the load.

So I bought it because the price was right and the increase in wattage gives me enough power to run the microwave which was just on the edge with the Legend.

As luck would have it, my Legend is working again - loose connection. So now I have a spare.

ISM Performance
Paul J A 8 hours ago

Doug

Replace all the intake pleated duct with aluminum tubing and use rubber fittings like truckers have.

Gets rid of air friction . Great simple improvement. 

Buy stuff from Electric power reel worn out
Dave Shackelford 7 hours ago

1 hour ago, Rick Rutel said:

Dave, we have an ‘08 Monaco Camelot 42pdq.  This past summer, we had a heck of a time trying to find an electrical fault in which power was not being distributed correctly.  Of all things, it turned out to be the reel.  Inside the reel are electronics that seem to be problematic. In researching the reels and rather often issues with them, we took it out.  The wires from the exterior of the reel are easily spliced.  Yes it is a bit annoying to have to place the power cord back into the coach, but the peace of mind is worth the extra five minutes.  You might find a used replacement at an rv salvage. 
Good luck.

I prefer new.

thanks  Rick

19 minutes ago, Warren B said:

I had a problem with mine a couple of years ago, and if I remember correctly, Southwire bought Shorline. I found the TRC Southwire RH54331RMK was a perfect replacement.  I see several online sellers have them.

This works.

many thanks,

Dave

Grease caps
Spirit5js 7 hours ago

So this is a photo of what I am looking for.  Note the cracks.  I want to replace before it fails completely.

Thanks

Slide goes out crooked
johncvandoren@gmail.com 7 hours ago

I believe it too is HWH.  I’ll try bleeding it out at the end of retract next time I’m at the coach in storage.  Thanks.

Thoughts on a 2013 Ford F 150 Platinum Ecoboost
Mike H 5 hours ago

3 hours ago, dennis.mcdonaugh said:

That's not an explicit part of the tow setup, but one of the steps probably accomplishes that task.

When the transmission gets shifted into neutral the steering wheel is unlocked.

ISM Exhaust Manifold
Jdw12345 2 hours ago

A couple of things to consider, imo, how long are you planing on keep the coach, and if that answer is a number of years, then I would say you should probably remove the entire exhaust manifold and replace all of the exhaust manifold gaskets…… and be done with it.

 Coming from running our own trucking business it’s more cost effective to fix these types of issues once and not have to deal with it again. I haven’t heard about a significant amount of ISM’s with manifold issues like the ISL’s but I’m not an ISM owner so I don’t look for problems with that power plant. Chances are that there’s another gasket issue right around the corner but then again maybe not, you never know, at 24 years old it’s a crap shoot! JMO!

New Downloads

Blue Sea ML-ACR
Frank McElroy Wednesday at 11:00 AM

Blue Sea Magnetic Latching - Automatic Charging Relay (ML-ACR) Application Overview and Installation Instructions.

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