Scotty Hutto

@stacyhall Do you still have yours?

I *believe* they may be made by AutoMotionShade. https://automotionshade.com/en-us/ The full part numbers from the Dealer Parts List are FLX-615MW-3600-4200 (36”) and FLX-615MW-3200-4200-51 (32”). While not listed on the website, it may be worth a call to their support number

You really need to get someone to connect Cummins Insite to your ECM and find the cause of the warning light. Could be as simple as low coolant; could be much more serious. In any event to proceed without knowing what’s causing the light could potentially destroy your engine. (or Bluefire or a Scan Gauge, something that can read the codes and tell you what the issue is)

Mike, Would love to see pics of the inside of the older Michelins once you’ve taken them off the wheels. I’ve always heard that’s where they deteriorate, but since my wife insists I replace steers at 5 yrs and drives at 7 (long story), I’ve never seen the inside of older tires. Just curious.

Dwight, Just as confirmation of what you mention above, the owners manual for my 2006 Diplomat shows separate belts for the alternator and AC compressor, but it came from the factory with one single serpentine belt. Would it be possible to get the clutch on the AC compressor to unlock (it uses 12v to “lock” the clutch), disconnect the clutch wiring, and leave the compressor in place? Finally, as for the AC compressor, it’s likely a Sanden. See if you can find the (typically) 4 digit part number on the compressor label. I was able to find one for my coach from Aero Climate Control in Rockwell, TX phone +01-972-772-5506 or online at https://www.acparts.com/. They have stock of older Sanden compressors that are no longer produced by Sanden. Good luck!

Here is my suggestion for getting the tile up... It's been a few years (and I've since replaced my fridge with a residential and replaced all of my flooring with engineered wood), but here's exactly what I did: 1. Remove the quarter round (shoe mold) 2. If you can find a Harbor Freight, buy a "toe-kick" saw. About $70... (The blade is arranged for this type work) (If you're near Marietta, GA, you are welcome to borrow mine) https://www.harborfreight.com/68-amp-3-38-in-toe-kick-saw-62420.html 3. Use a diamond blade for tile - you'' have to buy this extra (i *think* it's a 3", but please confirm) https://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-professional-continuous-rim-diamond-tile-blade-58961.html 4. Cover everything in close proximity (lots of dust) 5. Use the toe-kick saw to saw the tile right at the base of the cabinet 6. Clean, fix, etc. whatever you can to make the tile lay flat 7. use appropriate adhesive or thinset to reset tile. I would suggest the small bucket of premix thinset from a home improvement store) 8. Grout as appropriate (sanded caulk from a home improvement store makes a nice temporary fix if you can find something close in color) 9. Replace quarter round. It should cover the cut made with the toe-kick saw. Hope that helps.

It’s a Carefree Freedom OTD Awning. Here are some useful manuals.. Carefree Freedom Window & OTD Illustrated Parts List.pdfCarefree Freedom Window and OtD Awning Installation & Operation Manual.pdf

Yes, we frequently have posters post coaches for sale helping someone - especially someone who's lost their spouse.

Congrats!

I can’t speak specifically to your exact coach, but Monaco mostly used Atwood water heaters, which have an aluminum tank. IF you have a separate water heater and it’s original to the coach, it likely needs flushing and a new filter per Tom’s comments. If your hot water is provided by an Aquahot, others will have to help you out there. 😁

Not so well known Camp Host Terminology… Like many professions, camp hosts have their own terminology which does tend to vary from region to region. Some of them are obvious, others not so much. Here are a few examples: (and of course, we know Monacoers would never do any of this…) Canvas Kings: Last of a dying breed of hard core campers. Easily identified by an old canvas tent (generally Coleman) with a green or red (white gas) lantern sitting on a rock or picnic table and an old axe lightly buried in a log round to keep the edge sharp. A blue or red coffee pot warming near a perfect size campfire. These folks are highly respected, knowledgeable, and enjoy the outdoors for what it is. They do not care about surge protectors, water heaters or toilet paper debates. Rolling Hotel Crew (RHC’s): The opposite of the Canvas King. These folks are so addicted to all the comforts of home that when they head out into the great outdoors, they pretty much just bring the entire home with them, sometimes including the attached garage. To qualify as an RHC, your rig must be 45ft minimum length and weigh at least 30,000 pounds dry. Landing Strip Camp (LSC’s) For these folks it’s Christmas year around. Easily identified at night. They will generally have a mile or two of rope lights weaved in, out, and under their rigs. Every tree branch within reach will be adorned with some type of flashing, blinking color changing illumination. The brighter, the better and they absolutely must leave those lights on all night long just in case the camp raccoons want to disco dance at 3am. The Uninvited DJ: These campers are always equipped with a sound system large enough for a football stadium. It is their primary goal to ensure that every camper within a half mile radius can enjoy the music of their choice. More often than not, the UDJ will also qualify in the LSC category as it’s absolutely unheard of to put on an unwanted concert without appropriate lighting. E-Bike Hoodlum (EBH) Now just because you ride an E-Bike, doesn’t mean you qualify. This term is reserved for those who truly believe that the camp posted speed limit does not apply to 40 MPH bicycles. They are easily identified and can generally be found piled up on the side of the road usually after the speed bumps near a playground. Junior Bike Hoodlum: Basically the same as the above; however, you must be 15 years of age or younger for this category and any form of bike applies. Club rules generally mandate that you have a plastic bright orange or fluorescent green Mohawk glued to your helmet. Dog Doody Dufus (Triple D): These folks can easily be spotted standing on a strip of grass with a fuzzy buddy dangling from a leash and their head spinning in all direction. Eyes scanning the horizon to ensure that nobody is watching them as they have absolutely no intention of cleaning up after their dog. The dog generally doesn’t look around, they have one job to do and they don’t care who sees them or not. Torcher: These are the folks who skipped basic campfire class and resort to lighting full sized logs with a propane tank and brush torch for twenty full minutes. Easily identified as the specific campsite sounds like a rocket launch pad on a daily basis. Loggers: These are the folks (usually also torchers) who burn up all the fire wood they brought on day one and now resort to hacking away at protected oak tree branches with dull Walmart hatchets. This group is a particular favorite of the Park Rangers. There are more, but that’s enough for one day. A good day to all. (Shamelessly stolen from a friend)

I did the same thing… back over a smal bollard (not big enough to affect anything but the flap) and messed mine up pretty good. Bent around double… I did exactly what @Tom Cherry says above, and it looks good. Not perfect, but good. After all, it is a MudFlap hanging under a motorhome! 🤣 A new one would look great until the first dirt or gravel road, then it would look about like mine after I fixed it…

I’ve had Coach-Net for several years and used them once for a tow. All went exactly as I expected. As “additional ‘for what it’s worth’ info”, my brother-in-law owns of the biggest large vehicle towing services in the southeast (think 18 wheelers, Buses, Motorhomes, cement trucks) with about 12 wreckers, multiple other specialty two vehicles, and -to the point here- a specialty low-boy “bus trailer” for towing large motorhomes and buses. He will not take calls for motorhomes from anyone but Coach-Net. He said “the others” (he didn’t call them by name) try to beat towing companies down on price, then don’t pay on time. Coach-Net pays agreed pricing and pays promptly.

Happy to hear you're going to hang around and continue sharing your knowledge! Thanks for the many times you've helped me!! Scotty

There are at least two check valves that I’m aware of in my coach (YMMV). 1 - At the city water inlet in the wet bay. On my coach this is attached to the ball valve (white handle below) that directs incoming water to either the fresh water tank or directly to the coach plumbing. The check valve is on the output to coach plumbing such that it does not backfeed to the hose reel and maintains pressure in the plumbing system. I had problems with this last year and learned a lot about how it works (or doesn’t). I replaced the ball valve and check valve at the same time 2 - At the output (hot) of the water heater. This prevents reverse flow through the water heater. I don’t have an Aquahot on my coach, so I’m not sure how those factor in… There may be others that I’m not aware of, or if you have an Aquahot and not a dedicated water heater, your system may be plumbed differently.

The check valve for the typical Atwood water heater is located where the hot water exits the tank. The one for my coach looks like this: my $0.02… there are ones with plastic guts and ones with stainless steel guts… pay the extra $2.00 and get the stainless steel… It goes into the back of my water heater here:

There are a couple of different manufacturers of these slideout motors that Monaco used (and these three were all used during different production runs of a 2006 Diplomat!): Venture (M8910-1.2 or M9600) Klauber (K01285L150) While the metal gear on Amazon will fit many, the other failure point is the metal clutch gear. If your failure point is the clutch gear, the metal gear will only make it worse. I suspect that the nylon gear was a “sacrificial” part designed to fail to save other parts, as Paul mentions above. Mine lasted 18 years, so I’m thinking if I can get another 18 years out of another nylon one, I’m good If you want to replace the nylon gear AND the clutch gear for the Venture M8910-1.2 version, you can find them as a set here for about $108. https://amzn.to/3SBG8DQ The other point of failure for the above floor (bedroom) slideout is the “gear pack” (aka the 20 or 21 tooth gear that drives the rack in/out). Fortunately I haven’t had to do that. Yet. Maybe Chris @throgmartin Can shed some light, but again, it appears Monaco used multiple variations - even on the same year/model Coach.

My 06 Dip has a 2005 ISL400 also. My boost readings vary from 0-27psi. Normal level road driving is around 5-15 psi.

As @DavidL says, the countertops are Corian, and the sink bowls are also made of Corian and glued to the bottom of the countertop, then polished. I’m sure a SS sink could be mounted underneath, but I would be concerned about damaging the countertops in the process of removing the sinks. You would also need to rout the edges so they mated with the new sink. Maybe someone who has worked with Corian and is more knowledgeable will speak up. if they are looking rough, you can polish (sand) them so the look better.

I’ve installed a few Leviton brand in my coach. I would also consider Eaton a reputable brand. I have a MSW inverter (Magnum ME2012) and haven’t had any issues in the 3+ years since I installed them. You can get them at the Amazon link below or just about any big-box or local hardware store. https://amzn.to/3UvYxoa As a side note, the walls are thinner than a house, so you’ll need to use a shallow old work box.

Sharing my experience and what I’ve observed on the site over the years… - Progressive “typically” gives a teaser rate the first year, then increases every year after. - National General held their rates for the first and second year, then increase. - Safeco (aka Liberty Mutual), my current carrier, has held the same rate (about $700/yr) for four years now. My auto went up 40% for 2024 but RV stayed the same. 🤷🏻‍♂️ I’ve had one claim (windshield) and Safeco was really easy to deal with, FWIW.

Interesting stuff! And a good warning to check voltages before hooking up - or AT LEAST make sure and use your surge protector! A surge protector will catch the 208v as “high voltage” and prevent damage to the motorhome. I may be a dinosaur, but I have a device that I use to test every new pedestal before I hook up. Has saved me a time or two… (pedestal tester made by our member Richard Smith @Dr4Film)