Dr4Film

Joe, one question I do have is that you need to check whether the headlights turn on when you activate your wipers or not. Get back to me when you find out. I just went through the fuse and relay layout in Section 9 of the manual and found a 25 amp Headlight fuse located in the small Monaco #2 box which is located in that Front Run Bay under the drivers window. You might want to check that fuse also.

Joe, Don't you have an owners manual? There is one in there under section 12 starting on page 31. If you don't have that I can send a copy of mine to your PEM.

If you install a Haier Fridge such as a model 15 cu/ft you won't have to do any modifications to the enclosure that I know of or you could install a Fisher-Paykel which is larger and more expensive but again no modifications that I know of. Plus you would NOT have to change out your inverter or add more batteries, etc. unless you are mostly a boondocker. I installed a Samsung RF-197 back in 2012 and didn't have to do anything other than increase the height of the old NotSoCold opening.

Maybe check your ATS (auto transfer switch) to make sure power is being transferred to both legs of your coach when the generator is running. Each AC runs on one 50 amp leg of power when hooked to shore power and the same would be true for the generator. Are there other 120 VAC outlets not working too?

I also recommend Stone Vos Inc. for your awning work and Josam's in Orlando for your steering box leak and any other chassis work that may need attention. In regards to replacing your water pump, if you are planning to attend the Monacoers Gathering at Lazy Days from February 11 -16, I can replace your water pump providing you have a new one already in hand. They are not that difficult.

I saw a video on Facebook taken at the Ramblers Maintenance Session demonstrating this device and frankly I was not impressed with how long it took to activate the device to extinguish the fire. Plus it was located inside a small enclosed clear container. If you are a Facebook user and also belong to the Monaco RV Owners Group then use this search phrase "Monaco RV Owners group Proteng fire extinguisher video" it will bring up the video so you can view it and come to your own conclusion.

To close out this topic I wanted to do a follow-up with the final results. I went to NAPA and purchased a section of new vacuum line which goes from the reservoir tank to the vacuum generator. I then took my compressor and blew out the ventrui in both directions and reassembled it back onto the firewall. Started the coach up to air up the system and voila, the dash air flow system is back working correctly. Now to be fair, I believe that the main cause was self-inflicted in that I must have accidentally knocked off the tiny vacuum line that goes from one port on the vacuum reservoir through the firewall into the dash controls. I didn't realize it and frankly that tube is so tiny that I had to go looking for it as it wasn't quickly apparent to me. Ivan helped a lot in explaining the operation because I didn't even realize that there was a tube missing. Thank you Ivan!

Well it's about time! Congratulations! Now your life is entering "phase two" which I have been in for the last 10 years now and I am still trying to figure out when I had time to work at my previous 46 year career.

Ivan, Thank you SO much for the explanation and the photo. After reading your post I went to my coach to look closer at the entire system. Lo and behold, while working around the firewall area this past summer on a special project I had inadvertently knocked off the tiny tube from the second port of the vacuum reservoir by accident and didn't realize it. So most likely my vacuum generator is operating just fine. But since I have it all apart I am going to do some cleaning on it anyway, replace the vacuum hoses and assemble it back together. At least now I understand how this operates better and all of the connections. Thank you again. You have saved me lots of work.

Thanks! I guess I need to trace the vacuum line from the reservoir as it appeared to head over towards the vacuum generator ONLY but based on your explanation there must be a T someplace between the round black reservoir tank and the vacuum generator. I will look closer but it's difficult with so much wiring, hoses and air lines in that area of the firewall. I appreciate the explanation.

Joel, I have sanitized my fresh water tank only once and that was right after purchasing the coach back in 2003. Since I was a Full-Time RV'er at the time I have not done it again. I have flushed it out a few times but I like your idea of adding a small amount of bleach to the tank every so often. Now that I am a Part-Time RV'er I will start to do that most likely once a year as I use the water from the tank routinely so it doesn't reallysit in there for too long.

Joel, There are multiple categories for submitting posts regarding topics that fit into that category. You posted your "water" post/question in THIS category which is primarily for topics that pertain to "Procedures on New Site". Whereas you should have selected the category labeled "water systems" which is located further down the web site HOME page. You need to send a request to a moderator to have your Fresh Water Tank post moved to the correct category.

Bob, this is not a MAC device. It only has one input airline which goes directly into the venturi unit. Then two wires and one vacuum hose that also go into the black box. The other end of the vacuum hose goes into a round black plastic reservoir ball.

Back in October I posted a question on the old site about my Dash AC system when the proverbial problem hit my dash AC system where you lose control of the vents and all of the air comes from the defrost vents. There was a post from a member, Jim M. with a 2002 Knight that I saved to work on the problem later. Here is his post below. Jim M, or anyone else reading this post, I would love some more specific advice as to what to do as I now have the box and components removed from the firewall. Do I just use my compressor and blow air down through the venturi from the top? Is there anything else I need to do before reassembling it back to the firewall? If this doesn't solve the problem I will most likely purchase an electric vacuum generator to put in it's place. However I am very confused as to how THIS vacuum generator operates the air flow direction control when I don't see any vacuum hose going through the firewall into the dash area. Does anyone know how this all works because I don't! Thanks so much!

Thanks, guys! 90 minutes should give members PLENTY of time to decide whether their post needs to be edited or not. However, I and one other member posting in this thread was able to edit posts within the 5 minutes that was previously set up for this site so I believe it was working. It just wasn't long enough for others. One member was attemping to edit their post the next day.

OMG, the next day! Phillip, I am assuming this platform does not allow for an unlimited amount of time to edit your post. I don't know what the time limit is but my guess would be 15 minutes or less, certainly not hours or days.

Then do you think maybe you went past the window of time allowed to edit your post?

Bill, possibly the default is for privacy reasons, don't know but just a thought.

Phillip, you can edit your post directly AFTER you had posted it most likely for some "period" of time. But once that time limit has expired you lose that ability. There is an "EDIT" selection at the bottom of your post to accomplish that task. All you do is click on it. Make the changes you desire and then click SAVE. There is also a block to input the reason for your editing. Exactly like how the iRV2.com forum is run.

Yes, I see your signature as I have copied and pasted it below. Bill Graham 2003 Lexus GX470 pushing our 2009 Monaco Camelot 40QDP

Bill, 2002 Windsor PBT plus it is listed in my "signature" below each post that I make.

I was responding to Rich O's post not yours. We both posted about the same time only yours must have been a few seconds or minutes before mine.

I disagree! I find this new home FAR better than what Yahoo had offered in the past. It has more flexibility and the posts are instantly available for anyone to read and respond.

Here is the link to the location where you post your attendance.

There has always been a LOT of confusion when people start describing the auxiliary braking system on their coach. There are two basic ones, an Exhaust Brake and an Engine Brake. Each one operates VERY differently. Here is one link that explains the operation of each one. https://tinyurl.com/wheg99l From reading what you posted it sounds to me like your speed at the time you engage your Exhaust Brake is way TOO high. Exhaust Brakes are pretty useless with speeds at 55 mph and higher. If you are in 5th gear doing 55 and cresting a grade you are in for a "scary ride". When I was Full-Time RVing, I had an over-weight coach (+300 lbs) and towing a 11,400 lb cargo trailer and traveling to Alaska every two years. I had to learn how to effectively use my Exhaust Brake quickly. First off because my ECM had been Flashed with the "Latching" program I was able to have my Exhaust Brake switch located on the drivers dash turned ON all the time even while using the Cruise Control. So that alleviated having to think about or look to see whether the switch was on or not. Next, I learned very quickly at what speed points my Allison MH3000 would up-shift to the next higher gear. That's when I discovered that the Exhaust Brake was totally useless in 5th gear when traveling 55 mph or higher. So when I crested a hill I made sure I was in 4th gear or less doing about 45 mph or less. SO once I took my foot off of the fuel treadle, the Exhaust Brake would kick in but depending on the steepness of the grade the Exhaust Brake would either hold speed (not too often) or my speed would slowly climb. I also knew that once my speed reached 53 mph I needed to JAB the brakes hard to bring my speed back down 5-10 mph or more. If I had let the coach get to 54 mph or higher it would up-shift to 5th gear and we were off on the ride of a lifetime changing our underwear once reaching the bottom of the grade. If the grade was pretty steep, I would even crest the hill doing 35 mph or less as I knew that I would be jabbing the brakes even more. The PacBrake Exhaust Brake that I currently have is the upgraded PRXB one which I had installed having the original one removed after returning from our first trip to Alaska. It works much better and I was happy with the changeover and increased exhaust compression. So bottom-line, the Exhaust Brake works best in the lower speeds like 30-45 mph versus the higher ones 50+ mph. Hope this helps!