Dr4Film

Mel S, I would have suggested to set up a POLL to actually find out how many people prefer the old site to this new one BUT unfortunately this site doesn't have a POLLING option. My money would be on that the majority find it far better than Yahoo Groups which puts those that don't in the minority. However, that doesn't negate your specific personal opinion.

This new platform is 1000 times better than what we had with Yahoo! Thank you for putting Monacoers first.

I would think that you need to have a some sort of screen pop up on your TV first BEFORE you even attempt to connect to any hotspot or Internet connection. How else would you even know what type of Internet connection you are attempting to achieve?

Are you sure it actually was powered up?

I have also been undulated with multiple digests which started this weekend sometime. I keep deleting them.

You did not state that you connected specifically to HDMI Port 5 where you have the Fire Stick plugged into. Is that a misprint?

Why did you give up on the Mobley?

Maybe it's time for a new kitchen faucet. There are hundreds to choose from.

Yes, that is funny! Some people just lack even a little bit of common sense. I use a fitting on my 3 inch sewer hose where the output hose from the water softener is attached. That water goes directly into the sewer while the regen process is taking place. Once done I remove the hose and attach my normal water hose going into the coach.

Bob, with my OEM radiator the temps would be 180F for the engine and 175F for the Allison for the most part unless climbing grades. With my new CG&J radiator both the engine and transmission temps are more like 185F- 190F. Cooler temps are certainly better than hotter temps but you lose mpg with the fan WAO. The Allison needs a minimum of 140F to be able to measure the oil level so anything above that and below 250F is acceptable.

I agree with Dennis, a photo of the faucet would be helpful. Never had that problem with any of the faucets I have installed in the kitchen. However, after purchasing the coach back in 2003 that was the very first item to be replaced due to the amount of mineral deposits and the fact that it was plastic.

Sorry to hear the mess you are in with the wires. As a suggestion for the future when needed I always pickup a 12 VDC source from the large terminals either on the firewall inside the front generator compartment or the electrical box in the FRB aka front run bay or the RRB aka rear run bay if needed more for the rear of the coach. Here is an example.

Because Monaco has switched owners multiple times most historical data is long gone. You might try some of the motorcoach furniture manufactures to see if they could help.

That Latching Solenoid requires a completely different type of switch and wiring for it to work versus the original wiring and switch that are used for the Continuous Duty type solenoid.

To add on to Bob Nodine's post in regards to custom AC mufflers, I had two made for me back in 2015 and had done a write-up with photos on the old Monacoers Yahoo site. I have resurrected it for this post below. I made up a conceptual hand drawing of what I wanted for my AC mufflers. PDF diagram below. I then purchased the red oak lumber from Home Depot and contacted a local finish carpenter to construct the wood frames per my drawing. I also had left-over marine vinyl material from having my captains chairs recovered to use on the covers. I purchased the sound deadening foam from an online vendor. I chose to have the direction of the opening facing to the side of the coach versus either front or back. Below are a few before and after photos. The dB reduction was significant and have been VERY pleased with the improvement. Air Conditioning Muffler Frame.pdf

History has proven otherwise. Waste of time and money re-gassing old RV rooftop AC units versus using that same money towards new units. JMHO

The data cable is the same for both the old AC units and the new ones. I used a Data Cable Tester to test the integrity of the four wires prior to installing them into the connectors just in case I had to redo one or more of the plastic connector ends. I did have to redo one of them which was at the CCC-II Control. I purchased the same size units for both the front and back no difference.

Tried that last month, no joy.

Sounds to me possibly your clock-spring in your steering column has failed. I discovered that mine had failed when I no longer can activate the cruise control but for now everything else works fine. I plan to order one from Veurinks.com

Gary, I am able to find almost anything that I am searching for by using the "search" feature located at the lower right hand of the large RED header at the top of the page.

Woody, if you don't back-flush the resin bed beads the softener loses its capacity to produce soft water.

Except for having all of my water supply stuff placed in a Bay (no room left) we also do not drink ANY supplied water from and source. It only gets used for showers, sink and toilet use. Plus I also use ALL stainless steel washing machine hoses with quick disconnects from the spigot all the way to my coach. One line from the pressure reducer to the water filter, another line from the filter to the water softener and a final line from the softener to the coach. I have been using these hoses for 15 years now. I do not waste my money on drinking line hoses since we never drink the water.

Bill G is correct. Paul Whittle is building a replacement. He has a working prototype on his toilet.

My genset parts list only shows one fuel pump for my 7.5 KW generator.

I don't, Mike. I have never felt the need to secure mine. Although if someone wanted to they could simply chain it up to the pedestal or spigot. My water delivery system is hooked up this way: Pressure reducer at the spigot, followed with a single household charcoal type water filter for sediment and next is the water softener then a line into the coach.