Dr4Film

To each their own. In your case the TV is not in the way when people enter the coach. With some of the older coaches that have the TV in the center of the cabinets over the dash like mine I hit my head on that TV cabinet more times that I can remember. Hence the main reason for removing the "head-knocker".

I purchased the DJI Phantom 3 Advanced model with removable blade guards. I have four batteries and a backpack carrying case. I purchased it to use for an add-on real estate business but never got that business going before everyone was into it and most real estate companies were purchasing their own. Now I use it for recreational purposes plus I use it for when my brother and I go surf fishing in Flagler beach during the winters. It allows us to place our fishing lines significantly out further than either one of us could ever cast. Well out beyond the second sand bar.

The TV has to be removed first then you should see a number of locations where it is secured to the sides and maybe even the top. It's been so long since doing this that I can't exactly remember the locations and how many but there were quite a number of them.

Does this happen at every water faucet or just the shower? I always have both the onboard water pump switch on whether I am hooked to shore water supply or not. That way I always have good water pressure.

If you stick with the same style and not switch to a different one, yes. In my case I had to use the black base plate over again if I remember correctly. Here is an old discussion on iRV2.com in regards to the Essex Keypad replacement which I was a part of at the time. https://www.irv2.com/forums/f84/essex-ke-1601-keyless-entry-230232.html

Ken, There was no plug so the wires had to be combined together with an electrical union. The wires were all colored coded so I just followed the colors and used the manual as a reference to double check everything Then you should reprogram the new keypad just to be safe.

Don't know the brand of YOUR keypad but mine is made by Essex. I had one key go in my original keypad back in 2009 and had to replace the entire keypad which I had purchased from Northwest RV Supply. That one lasted only about 5 years and again one key stopped working . That's when the company said that the original old style was very susceptible to sitting in the sun a lot. They recommended that I order the upgraded keypad version from a company in southern California. That one is still working and has been there for over 6 years now. The company is called A-1 Electric https://www.a1electric.com/index.htm

Jerry, those are On/On and On/Off switches not momentary. Slide switches are always momentary otherwise the motors would burn up.

Jim, I really don't think you need a SPDT switch as you describe. Slide switches are momentary and in your case it would need to be a double throw momentary. The one in the link is not a momentary as it is a SPDT, it stays in one direction or the other, not in the center like a momentary switch. You picture is showing a momentary switch for the slide which has a center resting position. Edit: I just realized that momentary switches can be SPDT also.

Try eBay. Here is one link that I had found for those switches. https://tinyurl.com/yc7q92bt

Good luck in finding one. My operators manual had both 12 VDC and 120 VAC diagrams which didn't even include my floor-plan. The 120 VAC ones are pretty crude at best. You'll be lucky just to find a diagram with the layout of where your 120 VAC power is terminated.

I had an empty blank near the left side of the main driver's dash panel just below the headlight switch and another blank at the right side of the center dash panel. I installed two, one in each location so both myself and my wife have access to lower or raise the main wide white windshield shade anytime it is needed. We just have to be careful that both of us don't try to activate the switches at the same time. That will blow the fuse. I also use a tiny micro switch to program the shade for its travel stops which then gets removed after programming. Photos of driver's side and center console are below.

Whatever the distance is from engine to front wouldn't you need to double that?

The Factory GPS that came with my 2002 Windsor was obsolete by the time I had purchased the coach from the original owners in 2003. I ripped it out except for the roof top antenna and installed a Garmin Nuvi 465 LMT. When Garmin came out with the RV-760-LMT I purchased that for the coach and now use the Nuvi 465 in our car. Satisfied with both but as with all GPS devices we never rely on them 100%, trust but verify.

Jerry, Glad you finally found the Battery Cutoff Relay and fixed your problem. The Isolator Relay is used to combine the House Battery Bank to the Chassis Battery(s). There should be an AUX START switch on your dash panel which when pushed will activate that solenoid and combine the two separate battery banks together. Your auto charging system should also activate that solenoid when needed. I would suggest carrying a spare 6 gauge jumper wire with eyes on each end to use if/when your alternator takes a dump. You simply use that jumper cable and install one end on each side of the Isolator Relay. Then start your generator. It will keep the chassis battery fairly charged enough which prevents the engine and transmission from shutting down due to low voltage. It will allow you to drive hundreds of miles to a reputable shop where they can rebuild your alternator. Do NOT try to drive at night under this situation as the headlights will draw down the voltage too much.

Find the Battery Cut-Off Solenoid that is controlled by the switch up front by the entry door. Then simply bypass the 12 VDC Solenoid and be done with it. I never understood why anyone would ever want that solenoid in the first place seeing that they are high failure item's. Their only purpose was for lazy sales people to shut 12 VDC power off to the coach after showing the inside to perspective clients. Mine has been bypassed for the past 15 years and haven't missed it for one nano-second.

Remove existing antenna and from the roof run a wire fish over to the cable area or start fresh and install a new antenna in a new location. Not knowing exactly how the old antenna is mounted I would choose the latter.

https://www.beverlybeachcamptown.com/

Slide Lock Mech.pdf Here is what you need.

Beverly Beach Camptown Resort between Flagler Beach & Palm Coast.

The bottom won't help you. It has to enter at the top and coat everthing from the top on down at out the bottom.

While the slide is open I lubricate them 2-3 times every year by pouring or spraying Tri-Flow down from the top opening. Chris T. recommends motor oil. Then I take a pair of vice-grips and clamp it to the bottom lever and work it down and up several times making sure the mechanism is moving freely. I've never had to remove the covers but I know others have had to due to breakage.

The unit was never disassembled before it was shipped back to the factory.

I don't remember the exact price but it was between $6K & $7K for the complete job. The shop bought a rebuilt unit from the AH Colorado plant then shipped my failed one back for the core charge. A lot cheaper back then versus today. it would most likely be over $10K now and that's probably just for the rebuilt unit with no labor.

I have stated this previously in some other thread but after spending $6K back in 2005/6 for a rebuilt Aqua-Hot due to a fresh water leak in the external coils, if my current unit fails it will be replaced with an Espar Diesel System. Gene Howe had done that to his 2003 Diplomat when he removed his two propane furnaces. I happen to stop at his sod farm to stay one night and got to see the Espar in action. What prompted this conversion was he wanted to install a Samsung Residential fridge in place of his NotSoCold but he had a furnace under the fridge which prevented him from doing that easily so he removed both of the furnaces. The Espar system comes with heat ex-changers and hot water on demand. The diesel fired burner is also much easier to work on and more accessible.