Dr4Film

Still have mine after 15+ years of service with most of those while Full-Time RVing. If you are concerned about it growing legs there are ways to make it more difficult for thieves to walk off with it.

Reversing valves for the heat pumps are cheap and easy to replace. Plus their failure rate is VERY low and sometimes all it takes is a rap with a wooden handle to free it up. I have Aqua Hot and use the HP's rarely but I do use them in Florida during the winter time to exercise the generator and the AC/HP's. It's always nice to have a backup plan when things fail which I have had that happen to my Aqua-Hot at the most inopportune times. I also carry 2-3 ceramic heaters but they don't put out the heat like the heat pumps do.

Joe, glad you figured it out. You can prime the genset by holding the bottom of the switch (which is the OFF side) you will hear the same clicking sound. Then release and hold the top of the switch to start the generator. As I stated earlier there will be times that you may have to hold it a LONG time.

Yes, it has a starter solenoid. Does the switch light flash on and off when attempting to start? Have you tried starting the coach engine first then try starting the generator? Are there any flash codes displayed on the start switch?

Joe, depending on the outside temperature you may have to hold the start button longer.

Mike, I haven't needed to change resin beads as they get cleaned each time you backwash the beads. Plus I use an Iron Cleaner once a year as a precaution. If your resin bed gets permanently damaged due to excessive Iron or chlorine in the water then yes you would want to change it out. Or if someone just really wants to start out again with fresh resin bed then 10-15 years would be normal for a change interval. If you are running out of soft water very quickly in a day or two then chances are you have a damaged resin bed that will need to be changed. I actually added more resin beads to my TravelSoft into the area where you would normally add the salt. I did that to increase the time between regen's. I left just enough room to make sure that the resin beads have room to expand when back-washing. I now regen using a method that I had developed using a clear water filter canister. Back-washing IS part of the regen process. The steps are, 1. turn the valve to Backwash, flush for 15 minutes. 2. Turn the valve back to normal and regen using Motons Crushed Salt Crystals. I normally use three canisters full to do a compete regen. 3. After salt has been added, I flush the system for about 5 minutes to remove excess salt. I then fill my on-board water tank first then switch it over to normal coach use. Hope this helps!

I have owned a TravelSoft Water Softener for over 15 years and would not be without it. I have modified the regen process that works for me and it certainly does not take a lot of water to accomplish the task. Can't speak for the On-The-Go unit as I have no experience with that one but I would highly recommend the TravelSoft for use with any hard water locations. Just remember that the frequency of regen is dependent on how hard the water is at your location and the amount of demand. It really helps with reducing calcium buildup in your lines, hot water tank, faucets, sinks, shower, etc.

When I was researching replacement Dometic AC units the customer service tech stated that he gets far more repair calls for the Penguin II versus the Blizzard. I was about to order two of them when I discovered that they are taller than the Penguin II's. Since I am height limited when parked under my house with only 2 inches to spare I went with the Penguin II's. I purchased mine from PPL in Texas when they were having a sale. I bought the CCC-II from a vendor at eBay. I purchased new drain cup kits on Amazon. Installed both by myself except for the help from a neighbor who had a tractor to lift them up to the roof and remove the old ones from the roof.

It wasn't Josam's as Barry doesn't do repair work on engines. However it was Barry who suggested i go to Action Mobile not far down the road from Josam's. I have been there twice now and the owner, John, used to own a Class A coach so he is familiar with them. Plus his tech's are top notch guys.

I dropped my coach off to my favorite shop in Orlando back in late February prior to my trip to Alaska for two weeks. I had them replace my cracked exhaust manifold on the ISC 350 engine along with doing the yearly engine and chassis PM. The final cost just for the exhaust manifold was Parts = $988.77 and labor was 6 hours = $591. Add in about $102 for tax and the total ends up round $1681. This was significantly less than what Cummins Orlando had quoted me for the same identical job which was $4950. After adding in for the complete PM to the exhaust manifold change-out the total bill was $2122.42

Dave, I purchased M144 Toyo tires size 295/80R/22.5 from Josam's in Orlando last year. No problem with suppliers.

Sent email to sarge48@jnjpl.com and received an email back stating it was undeliverable. What's up with that? ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Message not delivered There was a problem delivering your message to sarge48@jnjpl.com. See the technical details below. LEARN MORE The response was: The recipient server did not accept our requests to connect. Learn more at https://support.google.com/mail/answer/7720 [jnjpl.com 104.192.84.71: timed out]

Yes, I do that now versus having to start the engine to build up air pressure. The HWH compressor sends air directly to the leveling air bags and not the front & rear tanks. Since I don't leave it in AUTO mode it never comes on. I normally have to tweak the leveling in manual to get the coach level to my liking. Since the HWH was up front I didn't have to block the coach. I simply raised the front to it's maximum with the air then held it there with the HWH. The HWH is isolated from the ride height system. The noise from the compressor is about the same as it was before in its original location. it doesn't bother me as I don't leave it in AUTO mode.

Hi Folks, Just to close out this thread with a follow-up, some photos and description of what I did to relocate the failed air compressor for the HWH Air Leveling System. After the complete unit was removed from under the coach where it was housed in a cage just to the rear of the front axle (VERY poor location - what were they thinking????) I removed the defective air compressor, relay and pressure switch. I then verified that the air/moisture spitter valve still worked by hooking it to a 12 VDC battery. I removed the filter above the valve and that did not need any further maintenance so I replaced it without any maintenance. I then cleaned up the base and proceeded to install the three new components. I had previously purchased a new air compressor, Viar Model 450C, an Emerson Relay Model 120-105711 and a Viar Pressure Switch Model 90100 which is On @ 90 psi / Off @ 120 psi. All three were obtained from Amazon. I also purchased 10 feet of 3/8 air line, one air-line union-coupling, some wire and split loom from the local NAPA store. I extended the two wires using crimp connectors and heat shrink. I installed the air-line coupling onto the line coming from the rear of the coach that goes to the rear 6 pack valves and also hooked it to one end of the new air-line. I then removed the old short air-line coming from the front 6-pack valves and attached the other end of the new air-line to the 6-pack valve. I used spilt-loom to cover all of the wires and air-lines for protection. All of those extensions were routed through a chassis frame which went directly into the adjacent bay where the diesel fuel and LPG tanks were located and where the new location will be for the air compressor. I had previously constructed a wooden shelf over the passenger side of the LPG tank which will hold the air compressor unit. The Viar Air Compressor came with rubber isolators but I added the springs that were used on the old Thomas Air Compressor to the mounting also. I also used some new springs between the base of the unit and the shelf to help further isolate and help dampen any vibrations coming from the compressor. I positioned the complete unit so it was easily accessible for routine maintenance if needed. Due to my installation of the compressor unit onto the wooden shelf I installed a ground wire from the metal base of the unit to the chassis to form the ground needed to run the system. I have attached photos of the rebuilt base unit installed in its final resting place. I am VERY pleased with the outcome and appreciate all of the help from my Workamper neighbor who was hired to do all of the work under the coach while I assisted him from outside with tools and materials. I am now able to re-level the coach without having to start up the engine to air up the system plus I no longer will have to worry about the air compressor failing once again from exposure to the elements, road debris and whatever it was exposed to in its previous location.

Joe, it is bolted to a bracket hanging from the frame just aft of the front axle directly in front of the bay that holds the fuel/LPG tanks. I relocated it to inside the fuel/LPG bay. I had posted the project on the old Yahoo Monacoers site with photos but that is long gone now. I still have a copy of that post in my email file. I will re-post it here for interested members.

Joe, The manual is correct. The leveling process for the HWH goes like this: Coach in ride height, slides deployed, HWH auto activated, coach will dump air as needed to level coach first and may raise the coach also depending on whether the rear has run out of room or not. As time goes on the coach will dump or add air, that's when the the small HWH air compressor comes into play to keep the coach at its level state if air is needed. My HWH auto leveling puck sensor is out of calibration and needs to be adjusted because whenever I do an AUTO level I always need to put it into manual then tweak it to meet my expectations. I have just been procrastinating over the years and have always leveled manually. My auxiliary HWH air compressor had not worked for many years. I just replaced it this past summer and relocated it to be better protected against the elements and for easier servicing too.

Joe, At the bottom of the red block at the top click on BROWSE then DOWNLOADS.

Kinda surprised that people don't put that on the top of their list for immediate purchase and installation right after purchasing their new or used RV. My Progressive Industries EMS-HW-50C has prevented numerous power problems since 2010 when we first started on our full-time travel. I had a portable TRC SurgeGuard prior to that where we were living full-time in Santa Clarita CA prior to retirement but luckily learned later how superior the PI-EMS unit performed.

Joel, I would try Visone RV Salvage. Don't just look on their web site but call them directly as they have lots of coaches in their parts yard. https://rvparts.visonerv.com/

What was the fix for you, fuse, latching relay, other?

Whenever I had to disconnect from the trailer it sat exactly where it was parked until I was ready to leave to continue on my trip.

Ron, I pulled a 30 foot Pace Cargo Trailer for over 8 years while were full-timing. I never had problems finding places to stay or park. Some places I had to disconnect while others I did not. The only major thing I really paid attention to was when needing fuel and when needing to pull into unknown places. I made sure that I had an easy ingress and egress when entering and exiting places. Only once I got myself in a jam back in 2015 when my GPS took me into a cul-de-sac instead of a Camping World where I wanted to dump my tanks. With some neighborly help I was able to use two driveways to get enough room to get turned around back to the main road. Right after that happened I notified Bob Towes from Truckdown.com of the incorrect GPS coordinates which were corrected for later updates to the Garmin database.

Bob, Here is an except from the Lambert Battery Maintainer Manual. "When you are dry camping, your Model LE-415 will sense that your converter/inverter is not powered up, and it will shut itself down. This feature protects your coach battery from being drained in the event that your chassis battery has gone bad. When you resume your trip however, your Model LE-415 will resume its normal operation. The green pilot lamp will glow whenever the Model LE-415 is operating." It sounds to me like your maintainer has the chassis and coach batteries connected when it should not. Thereby draining both your chassis and coach batteries.

Bob, I read the maintainer information as saying that when everything is off, shore power, generator and engine, the green light should be off which means that the maintainer has been deactivated. Is that incorrect? You are saying that your maintainer still has the green light on when it should be off and deactivated. I am confused.

If you are not hooked to shore power or have the generator on plus the engine is not running which is typical when boondocking the Green light should be off indicating that the maintainer is deactivated. I would say that your maintainer is defective or there is another device in the circuit which is causing the maintainer to stay on. My maintainer took a dump back in 2017 while on a long National Park tour out west. I replaced it with the Amp-L-Start.