Dr4Film

Greg, not sure which manual you have or you are referring to but according to my RC7-GS manual the Charge LED flashing "fast" is normal when your battery bank is in FLOAT charging mode. If it is a "very fast flash" then your charger is in "equalizing"" charging mode. So to me it appears your Inverter is acting normal. I will upload the RC7-GS Manual that I have to the Files Section for you to compare to yours.

Dave, I TOTALLY agree! This site is a million times better than any of the Yahoo Groups I had belong to. Thanks to everyone who worked very hard with I am sure many long hours of computer time to make this happen.

Bob, Frankly I don't remember as it was over 10 years ago and I went directly to the Borg store in Tujunga CA as I was living close by at the time. The owner who was still alive at the time took care of me and came out from the back with everything I needed. I then went over to the Parkhouse Tire shop in San Fernando Valley to have the stems and a set of new tires installed. I did have one small problem with one of the rear dully stems when the large size Dyna Beads would keep getting clogged inside the stem which wasn't supposed to happen. I went back to Parkhouse Tire shop and had them remove the stem, then drove over to Borg with it and they replaced the stem with a new one, no charge. That one gave me no problems whatsoever with the same beads for over 9 years. I have since gone to Balance Masters on the rears and got rid of the beads as the price on the beads plus shipping from Las Vegas was almost as much as the Balance Masters.

Pretty simple! On the MAIN home screen up top in the RED banner lower right hand corner is a SEARCH function. When you click on that it brings up a menu of FILTERS you can select. If you choose EVERYTHING it will search in ALL places on this forum. Once you type in your search term or phrase click on the little magnifier. It will bring up everything relative to whatever you typed in. For example I typed in parts an got this list: https://www.monacoers.org/search/?q=parts

Joe, it most likely comes from Monaco #2 where the 25 amp fuse for the headlights is located. The only way to locate it is to unwrap the spilt-loom and look for headlight identification possibly on the wire. Monaco used a lot of WHITE wires exactly for that purpose of identification. I don't see any relay associated with the headlights only the fuse. I like a previous posters suggestion of cleaning the connectors, pins and sockets real good with contact cleaner then place a small amount of electrical contact grease on the connector before sealing it back together. Yes, my Dr4Film handle is blocked from iRV2.com for life. I still go there occasionally to read some stuff but I no longer post. I could have re-upped with a different handle and email but the moderators would have zeroed in on me eventually, that I am sure, due to being TOO outspoken for them. There is life after iRV2! I mainly stick to this very friendly group.

Yes, it the FRB (aka Front Run Bay). It should have white wires marked with DRL on it.

I had my Hamsar DRL relay fail a number of years back which caused my headlights to come on and stay on. Plus the relay was so hot to the touch I had to use pliers to remove it. I pulled it out then researched where to purchase another one and it was going to cost $125 !!! Nope! Instead I have been using a set of LED's that I installed in place of the Hella Fog Lamps which come on as soon as I hit the ignition key. Those are now my DRL's. I doubt that the Hamsar relay is a cause to your problem but easy to test. Just pull out the relay from the socket and test your headlights.

Technology has changed a lot since I purchased the one that I am using in my coach which is an older version of Street Guardian Model SGZC12SG back in 2015. I also installed a 128 GB SD Card inside. I have been very happy with the performance and actually have taken some clips from it. One of a near Moose collision in Alaska, another of some grisly bears meandering across the highway and another of some road rage that took place in VA on my way back to Florida one year. https://streetguardian.info/sgzc12sg-v2-pro

Joe, There are other lamps that are included with the headlights. Are the headlights the ONLY ones not working?

Joe, one question I do have is that you need to check whether the headlights turn on when you activate your wipers or not. Get back to me when you find out. I just went through the fuse and relay layout in Section 9 of the manual and found a 25 amp Headlight fuse located in the small Monaco #2 box which is located in that Front Run Bay under the drivers window. You might want to check that fuse also.

Joe, Don't you have an owners manual? There is one in there under section 12 starting on page 31. If you don't have that I can send a copy of mine to your PEM.

If you install a Haier Fridge such as a model 15 cu/ft you won't have to do any modifications to the enclosure that I know of or you could install a Fisher-Paykel which is larger and more expensive but again no modifications that I know of. Plus you would NOT have to change out your inverter or add more batteries, etc. unless you are mostly a boondocker. I installed a Samsung RF-197 back in 2012 and didn't have to do anything other than increase the height of the old NotSoCold opening.

Maybe check your ATS (auto transfer switch) to make sure power is being transferred to both legs of your coach when the generator is running. Each AC runs on one 50 amp leg of power when hooked to shore power and the same would be true for the generator. Are there other 120 VAC outlets not working too?

I also recommend Stone Vos Inc. for your awning work and Josam's in Orlando for your steering box leak and any other chassis work that may need attention. In regards to replacing your water pump, if you are planning to attend the Monacoers Gathering at Lazy Days from February 11 -16, I can replace your water pump providing you have a new one already in hand. They are not that difficult.

I saw a video on Facebook taken at the Ramblers Maintenance Session demonstrating this device and frankly I was not impressed with how long it took to activate the device to extinguish the fire. Plus it was located inside a small enclosed clear container. If you are a Facebook user and also belong to the Monaco RV Owners Group then use this search phrase "Monaco RV Owners group Proteng fire extinguisher video" it will bring up the video so you can view it and come to your own conclusion.

To close out this topic I wanted to do a follow-up with the final results. I went to NAPA and purchased a section of new vacuum line which goes from the reservoir tank to the vacuum generator. I then took my compressor and blew out the ventrui in both directions and reassembled it back onto the firewall. Started the coach up to air up the system and voila, the dash air flow system is back working correctly. Now to be fair, I believe that the main cause was self-inflicted in that I must have accidentally knocked off the tiny vacuum line that goes from one port on the vacuum reservoir through the firewall into the dash controls. I didn't realize it and frankly that tube is so tiny that I had to go looking for it as it wasn't quickly apparent to me. Ivan helped a lot in explaining the operation because I didn't even realize that there was a tube missing. Thank you Ivan!

Well it's about time! Congratulations! Now your life is entering "phase two" which I have been in for the last 10 years now and I am still trying to figure out when I had time to work at my previous 46 year career.

Ivan, Thank you SO much for the explanation and the photo. After reading your post I went to my coach to look closer at the entire system. Lo and behold, while working around the firewall area this past summer on a special project I had inadvertently knocked off the tiny tube from the second port of the vacuum reservoir by accident and didn't realize it. So most likely my vacuum generator is operating just fine. But since I have it all apart I am going to do some cleaning on it anyway, replace the vacuum hoses and assemble it back together. At least now I understand how this operates better and all of the connections. Thank you again. You have saved me lots of work.

Thanks! I guess I need to trace the vacuum line from the reservoir as it appeared to head over towards the vacuum generator ONLY but based on your explanation there must be a T someplace between the round black reservoir tank and the vacuum generator. I will look closer but it's difficult with so much wiring, hoses and air lines in that area of the firewall. I appreciate the explanation.

Joel, I have sanitized my fresh water tank only once and that was right after purchasing the coach back in 2003. Since I was a Full-Time RV'er at the time I have not done it again. I have flushed it out a few times but I like your idea of adding a small amount of bleach to the tank every so often. Now that I am a Part-Time RV'er I will start to do that most likely once a year as I use the water from the tank routinely so it doesn't reallysit in there for too long.

Joel, There are multiple categories for submitting posts regarding topics that fit into that category. You posted your "water" post/question in THIS category which is primarily for topics that pertain to "Procedures on New Site". Whereas you should have selected the category labeled "water systems" which is located further down the web site HOME page. You need to send a request to a moderator to have your Fresh Water Tank post moved to the correct category.

Bob, this is not a MAC device. It only has one input airline which goes directly into the venturi unit. Then two wires and one vacuum hose that also go into the black box. The other end of the vacuum hose goes into a round black plastic reservoir ball.

Back in October I posted a question on the old site about my Dash AC system when the proverbial problem hit my dash AC system where you lose control of the vents and all of the air comes from the defrost vents. There was a post from a member, Jim M. with a 2002 Knight that I saved to work on the problem later. Here is his post below. Jim M, or anyone else reading this post, I would love some more specific advice as to what to do as I now have the box and components removed from the firewall. Do I just use my compressor and blow air down through the venturi from the top? Is there anything else I need to do before reassembling it back to the firewall? If this doesn't solve the problem I will most likely purchase an electric vacuum generator to put in it's place. However I am very confused as to how THIS vacuum generator operates the air flow direction control when I don't see any vacuum hose going through the firewall into the dash area. Does anyone know how this all works because I don't! Thanks so much!

Thanks, guys! 90 minutes should give members PLENTY of time to decide whether their post needs to be edited or not. However, I and one other member posting in this thread was able to edit posts within the 5 minutes that was previously set up for this site so I believe it was working. It just wasn't long enough for others. One member was attemping to edit their post the next day.

OMG, the next day! Phillip, I am assuming this platform does not allow for an unlimited amount of time to edit your post. I don't know what the time limit is but my guess would be 15 minutes or less, certainly not hours or days.