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Rick There are separate air supply lines from the air tank to the height control valve and the HWH six-pack. It sounds like you have an air supply issue to the new height control valve or the new valve is faulty or improperly installed. I would zero in on the height control valve, it sounds like your leveling system is just fine. Richard

It is possible that the rubber seals can get stuck particularly if you have been parked for an extended amount of time in hot weather. You would have to have someone energize the Travel mode solenoid while you were tapping on it to do any good. The few times I have had a sticking problem after being parked for an extended time, I solved the problem by exercising the unit multiple times. (I raised the coach as high as possible and then hit Travel mode and then dumped all air and then hit Travel mode. After a few cycles of this, all was good.)

Scan through the illustrations in the HWH text book to see what the T-handles look like and then crawl under and take a look at your six packs to see if they are there. I have the model 2000 and mine has the T-handles, but I have seen others that do not. I have no idea why they exist on some units and not on others. It may be that one (or both) of the Travel mode solenoids have failed, either electrically or physically stuck. I actually carry a spare solenoid for insurance (Murphy's law says that if you carry the spare parts, you will never need them. Ha! Ha!). The solenoid electric coils are all the same and they are fairly easy to remove and replace if you want to do some swapping for troubleshooting purposes. The important part is that the solenoid in each position is connected to the correct wiring harness. So, if you swap the solenoid coils, make sure you swap the corresponding wiring connections in the harness. The connections are about 12 inches back on the wires from the solenoid. You can remove the electric coil portion from the solenoid valve without air loss but do NOT remove the base of solenoid valve from the manifold without firmly blocking up the coach and removing all air from the system. You don't want the air suspension dropping with you under there. Good luck and be careful. Richard

Tim Depending on which version of six-pack manifold you have, there should be small "T" handles one on each side of the manifold. Those "T" handles are needle valves that screw in below the Travel solenoids. If you open those valves, you will manually bypass the Travel mode solenoids and you can drive the vehicle with normal height control via the ride height valves. That way you can drive it home and troubleshoot there. I have attached a copy of the HWH air leveling text book for your reading pleasure. Richard HWH Air Leveling Systems Text Book.pdf Sorry, message was for Rick, not Tim. My bad. Richard

Ivan and Frank Thank you for your insight. My 8K is obviously built different than your 10K. I had to remove the entire top (about a dozen hard to get to bolts). Then I could move the coolant surge tank out of the way and get to the circuit breaker. After installing the new breaker, everything works correctly under load. Yipee! If anyone is in need of the 35 amp double pole breaker that Onan used on the 7.5 and 8K units, I found it available on Amazon from the OEM manufacturer (AIRPAX, IEG66-28333-2-V) at about 2/3 the cost of the Cummins part #. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KW6N539?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Richard Just a p.s. My circuit breaker was not tripping, but any load over about 20 amps would cause the breaker to lose voltage below the minimum required to keep the ATS contactor energized. I initially thought my ATS was failing, but after much testing, determined it had to be the generator dropping voltage. Richard

The circuit breaker on my QD8000 is starting to fail (after 17 years, I am not surprised). Does anyone have experience in replacing this circuit breaker and can tell me how deep I will have to go in disassembling the unit in order to replace the breaker? Thanks Richard

Here is a set on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Black-License-Plate-Screws-Fastening/dp/B07QNN8NX7/ref=asc_df_B07QNN8NX7?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80814224251698&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584413752197037&th=1

Dennis My 40250 is the same vintage as yours and it is having the same issues although mine is disconnecting on both shore and generator power after it gets hot (about 2 hours). I assume the relays in the contactor are aging out and no longer holding. There seem to be no new or used replacement contactors available any longer. From what I have been able to determine, our vintage ATS units precede the use of the RV-C protocol that is currently used, so the 40350, 40450, etc... would not communicate with the Aladdin system. I called Southwire to ask a tech if there newer ATS systems could be made backward compatible with the Aladdin. He asked "What is an Aladdin?" So, no joy there. I would like to know if I can take the parts out of the 40250 and use them to make the 40350 communicate with the Aladdin, but I have not found anyone with an answer. So, if anyone on this "brain trust" can answer that for us, I would greatly appreciate it. Richard

I was told that the outlet that was not wired thru the inverter was for items that you NEVER want running off battery power (electric space heater for example).

I was faced with the same issues a few years ago. To upgrade our current coach or look for a newer more modern coach. We looked around, but did not find anything that came close to the quality of our Monaco built Beaver. I was not impressed with anything from the REV group. Nor would I consider anything from Thor or Forest River. We updated our old Beaver and have been very happy with the result. We do have to keep our significant others happy, but I would certainly be hesitant to trade off what is a known good quality coach for a pig in a poke. Just my 2 cents. Richard

Hi Mike! Functioning Aladdin Joysticks with associated control boards have become as rare as hens teeth. Visone has used ones for $250 plus shipping. NWRVsupply has new joysticks without the control board for $75, but you have to very carefully solder it onto your functioning control board. If you still have one that functions, I would consider yourself lucky. I only have one left that functions also, so if you find any that are reasonably priced, let me know. Richard

It sounds like you have hydraulic (or electric) jacks for leveling and not air leveling (air leveling uses the air springs to level the coach while parked). Your coach should have two ride height control valves on the rear axle and one in the center of the front axle. The ride height control valves are not solenoid valves, but mechanically activated air valves that are attached to the axles with rods and lever arms. The lever arms are adjustable so that you can adjust the correct air level for in motion travel. The rods and arms are often connected with clamped rubber bushings that fail over time. If you are going to make adjustments or corrections to this system, I would highly recommend that you spend the time learning how to safely make any adjustments. If you are under the coach when the air system loses all air, the results can be catastrophic. Please be careful. If I am going to get under mine, I run it up on 4" blocks and then put jack stands under the frame. Having 35,000 pounds fall on me is not a pleasant thought. Good luck exploring the source of the issue. I am surprised that some of your air springs are deflating but not that one. I think my coach has a single dump valve for deflating and I assume yours does also. Richard

The answer depends on whether you have air leveling or not. If you have air leveling, you have a problem with a solenoid sticking. If you do not have air leveling, then you probably have a broken or maladjusted ride height valve on that side. Richard

Thank you all for your helpful comments. It does seem that it is receiving a false shutdown signal. I had not even considered the AGS. I will reprogram the AGS and see if it makes any difference. The difficulty of course is that it is a random happening. I don't seem to be able to force it to happen. At times I have let it run for hours in my driveway under load and it has run fine. At other times, it will run for a couple hours and then shut down. I will keep your comments in mind and continue to observe its functioning to see if I can determine what is causing the shutdown. Does anyone know which particular lighted Carling switch was used to control the generator from the dash? Thanks! Richard

Thanks Ivan! However, when my generator quits, the light on my generator is not lit (it is lit when the generator is running). No light, no blinking, nothing. I don't seem to be getting any error codes. Does the light on the dash switch also indicate error codes? The light on that switch has been burned out for years. I have just gotten along without it since I could not find a direct replacement for the switch or a way to replace the micro bulb in the switch. Richard

My Onan QD8000 is also randomly shutting down after 2 or 3 hours run time in the heat. I have tried to retrieve the fault codes (blink codes) with no success. Either no fault code is being set or I am doing things wrong. I have tried to follow the description for retrieving the codes printed in the manual, but nothing displays. Can someone give me a quick tutorial on this process? Thanks Richard

Tim I am having the same problem with my Magnum remote. Evidently the button contacts are corroded and not making contact. If anyone has knowledge as to disassembling and repairing, I am also in need. Richard

By chance is the pedal assembly part # 19837 the same part just a different color (white)? Might be your only option. They seem to be available.

James I also have an old AT&T Mobley SIM card that I use when traveling. I used to have a T-Mobile cell phone, but found the coverage to be terrible unless in urban areas. I switched my cell to the Verizon senior plan with unlimited hot-spot data. I either use AT&T or Verizon whichever has the best throughput where we are located. It is usually the AT&T Mobley, but right now we are down on the White river in Arkansas and Verizon is working better. Richard James I have also been considering the WeBoost RV cell signal booster. My grandson has one when he travels and he really likes it. However, the $500 price tag has been a deterrent to me. Richard

Richard I think you missed the part in that picture where the bolt head has cut a groove in the side of that Toyo tire. The other Richard.

Be careful with solvents on phone cable connectors. I once grabbed the wrong can and sprayed an RJ11 connector with carb cleaner. The plastic connector fractured, shattered and fell apart in my hand. I had to go find a new connector and crimper to rebuild the cable end. Richard

Mike Another member with the same vintage coach was having the same issue (I do not remember if it was here or on IRV2). He solved the issue by having the tire shop install spacers behind the wheels. Good luck. I also wonder if installing a slighter narrower tire would solve the issue (11.00R22.5). Richard

I replaced my fresh water dump valve on my '06 Beaver Monterey this past winter. It is simply a 1.5 inch gate valve just like the ones that dump the grey water. There is a rectangular shaped sheet metal housing screwed up to the bottom below the fresh tank (about 6 screws). Remove that and you will find the gate valve with a small 12 volt powered actuator motor. Removing and replacing the gate valve with a new one is relatively straight forward. When I put it back together, I did have to make a few minor adjustments to the mechanism to get the gate valve to fully close (it is just clamped onto the plastic gate valve body). Good luck with your replacement. Richard

Take a look at this video from Darren at MY RV Works Inc in Port Angeles Washington. He shows the control box he built from off the shelf components.

Sorry Mike! I just mailed it to Brad Henderson in Canada. Richard