hex_nut

I do NOT understand why you would go back to an absorption type refrigerator. I have had a dozen or so absorption refrigerators in my RVs over the last 50 years. Five years ago I dumped the last failed absorption refrigerator and replaced it with a Samsung RF18. I will NEVER willing go back to an absorption refrigerator. Can you please explain your reasoning in wanting to do so? Respectfully, Richard.

The most popular replacement shower unit for RV's is the Oxygenics Body Spa. It has low water usage but still produces a good stream of oxygenated water. https://www.amazon.com/Oxygenics-26481-Brushed-Nickel-Shower/dp/B00AZOWSJM/ref=sxin_17_pa_sp_search_thematic-asin_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.e403baaf-842d-4a91-9b90-181ad3737ce2%3Aamzn1.sym.e403baaf-842d-4a91-9b90-181ad3737ce2&cv_ct_cx=oxygenics+shower+heads&keywords=oxygenics+shower+heads&pd_rd_i=B00AZOWSJM&pd_rd_r=6a1757fb-167c-457b-a304-81da44ef96e9&pd_rd_w=VH9cY&pd_rd_wg=Ua9sg&pf_rd_p=e403baaf-842d-4a91-9b90-181ad3737ce2&pf_rd_r=GPFVRGH11PQ4NKPKVJEJ&qid=1680543179&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sr=1-1-4a643ae4-6005-4b15-bc31-2c5125e2b25b-spons&psc=1

There are two common vacuum break units for Dometic (Sealand) toilets. The one without a handheld sprayer is 385316906. The one with the handheld sprayer is 385230335. Richard

I had the same issue on a Freightliner chassis. I did the rear axle myself, it was straightforward and fairly easy. Then I stewed and puzzled on how to get that nut off the front air spring when it was so close to the front axle. I finally took it to Freightliner. They put the coach on a lift and lowered the front axle. Even after that, they had to use a big impact wrench to get that nut loose. It was worth it to me to pay their labor charge, I simply could not have done that job myself. Richard

Gene Y How are you doing with your fridge? I am sorry to not have responded to your question a couple weeks ago (I have been boondocking on the Texas gulf coast with no internet connection). If your fridge is not defrosting correctly, there are three plug replaceable components behind the back cover inside the fridge (four counting the updated defrost clip mentioned by others). In my frustration with mine, I ordered all 4 components (defrost heater, temperature sensor, thermal fuse and the new design of defrost clip). Replacement solved my problems, but I wanted to know what had actually failed. With a little diagnostics, I determined that my defrost heater was fine and the temperature sensor was fine. However, the thermal fuse had failed. Samsung used a standard thermal fuse that cannot be wet. Since this is a wet environment, they encapsulated the thermal fuse in a sealed plastic bubble. The seal had failed on mine and it was full of water. So, I had found what had failed and I could have just replaced the thermal fuse. Others have found this to be a common failure point on the RF18, BUT of course the failure can be any of these components. I hope you have solved your issues, but if not, perhaps this will help you on your way. Richard

Todd The failure point in the RF18 fridge defrost circuit is most commonly the small thermal fuse that Samsung encapsulated in a plastic bubble to seal it from moisture. The plastic bubble fails and then the thermal fuse fails. If you have not as yet replaced that part of the wiring harness, I suggest you try that before you give up on it. Richard

When I installed my residential fridge (5 years ago), I initially just plugged it into the existing inverter circuit from the original ice maker. However, I soon realized that the large inverter (2800 watts) used lots of power when it was just idling. My solution was to install a small dedicated inverter just for the fridge (1000 watt Xantrex). I also installed it's own transfer switch so that the fridge is powered from shore or generator if either are present, but switches to battery power through the inverter if they are neither available. I am much happier with this configuration and it has worked flawlessly for years. Good luck with your conversion. Richard I should have mentioned that now I only turn on the big inefficient inverter when I want to use the microwave or watch TV. Richard

After installing the baseplate and aux. brakes (found a nice used Roadmaster Brakemaster air unit on Ebay for $200) and then running taillight bulbs and wiring (the CRV's actually have a spare light socket hole in the taillight lens), I am into it for about $13,000. I still have all 3 of the CRV's that I have owned. The original '99 is close to 300,000 miles and still going strong (my granddaughter is driving it to college). If you can find a nice 2014 all wheel drive CRV at a reasonable price, that would be my recommendation. Richard

My last three toads have all been Honda CRVs, bought used never new. The new CRV's are not towable anyway (after 2014). The recent one is a 2013 that I bought and set up last year. I was looking for a 2014, but could not find one in good condition at a reasonable price. Since I have Blueox towbars, I installed a Blueox baseplate on the 2013 CRV (about $500 and an afternoons work). I do not need (or want) a serious off-road vehicle, so I have been hesitant to even consider Jeep. I looked for toads that were already set up, but found the market extremely limited, so in all cases have purchased a good used vehicle and set it up myself. Good luck with your search. Richard

I have had a Samsung RF18 for the last 5 years and am very happy with it. I lowered the floor as much as possible (my wife is vertically challenged). With the removal of the front leveling legs, and the attachment of angle brackets, the lower front was firmly attached to the framework. Wooden wedges were attached at the top rear and small black aluminum plates were attached to the framework on each side at the top that fit between the fridge door and fridge cabinet (see upper right in photo). The installation has been solid thru 5 years of travel. My home built key lock for the doors and freezer is obvious. Someone told me the new RF18 does not have external handles, so another form of latch would have to be fabricated. Richard

I am confused. I have never seen an absorption fridge wired thru the inverter. They are wired directly from the junction box (circuit breaker). So, if you have power to the coach, your fridge 120 volt heating element should function. To answer your question, it can take many hours to cool an absorption fridge. Many people turn them on a day before they want to load them to allow them to get down to temperature. Since your propane burner functions, I would certainly give it multiple hours to see if it will respond. If there is any yellow powder around the cooling unit, or if it smells like ammonia then the cooling unit has vented its chemicals and it is toast. Richard

Take a look at the Fisher Paykel RF17 series. It is a couple of inches shorter than the Samsung RF18 and may fit with less modifications. As noted above, AJMadison is a good place to check dimensions.

I cannot find anything on a Samsung model RF12. Was that a typo?

Georgia Mike That shroud listed on Amazon from ICON will fit just fine, BUT if you have heat pumps you should use the ones with vent holes in the sides to better vent when in heat pump mode. Richard

If you have a rear radiator, access should be rather easy from the bottom. In fact it should be directly available on the drivers side of the engine. My C9 powered coach has a side radiator and the access is much more difficult because of so much more stuff in the way. Richard

Thanks to Frank McElroy and Paul Whittle I have replaced the broken switch panels. I ordered the 4/6 button panels from NWRVsupply and the 10 button switch panel direct from Paul. Thanks to everyone. Richard

As far as a solvent to penetrate and loosen the shaft, carb cleaner would probably work as well as something like PB Blaster. Both will vapor off rather quickly. After you loosen it up, you will still need to lubricate it with some kind of high-temperature lubricant. Getting it loosened up is the primary issue. Richard

I found it easier to remove the unit and take it to my workbench to work on. But, mine was seized and needed some serious cleaning. I soaked mine in a homebrew recipe of half acetone and half transmission fluid. It took quite a bit of soaking and working the flapper back and forth to free mine up. In your case, I think I would take the actuator arm loose and see how tight the flapper is in the housing. If it moves but is just tight, I would lubricate it in place and see if it loosens up. If it does, you might avoid taking it off. It was not difficult to remove, but it could be a problem if the clamp threads are rusted badly. You will just have to play it by ear as you look at your individual situation. Richard

The exhaust brake flapper mechanism with it's actuator would be installed on the drivers side of the engine right close to the turbocharger. I am currently running a CAT C9 (big brother to the C7) and it is set up the same way. Many of the Cummins engines installed on other Monaco branded motorhomes use totally different exhaust and engine brake systems. When Monaco acquired SMC (Safari and Beaver coaches), SMC was contracted with CAT to provide engines. That is why most Monaco motorhomes have Cummins engines, but the Safari and Beaver derivatives were CAT. Hope that all makes sense. Richard

I have been a previous owner of a 2005 CAT C7 powered motorhome. Mine had the Pacbrake brand exhaust brake, I suspect your is the same. The first time I used it, it closed the cast iron flapper and it stuck closed (it had evidently not been used by the previous owner). I had to crawl under and take a hammer to knock it back open. When I got home, I took the exhaust brake off and soaked it in solvent and worked all the rust out. With proper lubrication, it worked correctly for the rest of the time I owned that motorhome. If exhaust brakes are not used regularly, they will rust up and seize. Cleaning and lubricating becomes important. Richard

When I was faced with this issue while traveling, I used a chrome metal valve stem cap to glue over the post in place of the original bushing. It worked just fine for the rest of my trip. When I got home, I ordered the stepped brass bushing and replaced the valve stem cap. Richard

Just a FYI to avoid confusion by others. These are called "ride height valves" not "leveling valves". I have an air leveled coach and "leveling valves" are something totally different. Richard

Gary Did you ever determine where the Beede temp sensor was installed? My temp gauge has failed and I have determined that the dash gauge does NOT use the same sending unit as the engine ECM. I am not sure how to troubleshoot the dash gauge to determine if my gauge has failed, or if the sending unit has failed. What did you do with the original temp gauge that you removed? Did it still work? Any idea where I can look to find a replacement if I determine that it is my gauge that has failed? Any assistance you can provide in pointing me in the right direction is greatly appreciated. Richard

In reference to your other comment about ice makers. It was common in the vintage of your motorhome to install U-line brand ice makers (you can do an internet search on U-line to see what they looked lie). They were a bit failure prone and replacement parts were prohibitively expensive (a common appliance ice maker replacement unit was about $100, the U-line replacement was $500). So, when they failed most people just took them out. There are much better options today for ice makers in RV's than there were 20 years ago. The Samsung compressor type fridge I installed in my motorhome has a built in ice maker that works very well, so I wouldn't consider other options. Richard

My wife and I are of the opposite opinion as Chuck B. We have installed Splendide washer/dryer combo's in our last 3 motorhomes. We neither one like RV park laundry facilities and even more dislike commercial laundromats. The combo units do have limitations: they do small loads and take a while to dry (they only have a 1200 watt heating element). But, once you get used to using them, we find it much more convenient than other options. You do of course have to have full hookups, but that is what my wife prefers (she is not a boondocking type person). I do recommend that if you are installing a new one that you go with the vented model. (The unvented model that relies on condensation drying takes much longer than the vented model.) They are a bit of a struggle to get thru the door and down the hall to install, but we believe they are well worth the trouble. So, as with residential and absorption refrigerators, you will find differing opinions as to what people prefer (we put in a residential fridge and love it). Richard Sorry Charles! I got to honking on and forgot to answer your questions. I managed to install the Splendides in 3 coaches without having to do any disassembly of the units (1 was a replacement of a failed unit, the other 2 were virgin installs). I did put the plastic pans under the units to catch any drips or leakage (wasn't really necessary, but it is like buying insurance). Richard