hex_nut

Dennis My 40250 is the same vintage as yours and it is having the same issues although mine is disconnecting on both shore and generator power after it gets hot (about 2 hours). I assume the relays in the contactor are aging out and no longer holding. There seem to be no new or used replacement contactors available any longer. From what I have been able to determine, our vintage ATS units precede the use of the RV-C protocol that is currently used, so the 40350, 40450, etc... would not communicate with the Aladdin system. I called Southwire to ask a tech if there newer ATS systems could be made backward compatible with the Aladdin. He asked "What is an Aladdin?" So, no joy there. I would like to know if I can take the parts out of the 40250 and use them to make the 40350 communicate with the Aladdin, but I have not found anyone with an answer. So, if anyone on this "brain trust" can answer that for us, I would greatly appreciate it. Richard

I was told that the outlet that was not wired thru the inverter was for items that you NEVER want running off battery power (electric space heater for example).

I was faced with the same issues a few years ago. To upgrade our current coach or look for a newer more modern coach. We looked around, but did not find anything that came close to the quality of our Monaco built Beaver. I was not impressed with anything from the REV group. Nor would I consider anything from Thor or Forest River. We updated our old Beaver and have been very happy with the result. We do have to keep our significant others happy, but I would certainly be hesitant to trade off what is a known good quality coach for a pig in a poke. Just my 2 cents. Richard

Hi Mike! Functioning Aladdin Joysticks with associated control boards have become as rare as hens teeth. Visone has used ones for $250 plus shipping. NWRVsupply has new joysticks without the control board for $75, but you have to very carefully solder it onto your functioning control board. If you still have one that functions, I would consider yourself lucky. I only have one left that functions also, so if you find any that are reasonably priced, let me know. Richard

It sounds like you have hydraulic (or electric) jacks for leveling and not air leveling (air leveling uses the air springs to level the coach while parked). Your coach should have two ride height control valves on the rear axle and one in the center of the front axle. The ride height control valves are not solenoid valves, but mechanically activated air valves that are attached to the axles with rods and lever arms. The lever arms are adjustable so that you can adjust the correct air level for in motion travel. The rods and arms are often connected with clamped rubber bushings that fail over time. If you are going to make adjustments or corrections to this system, I would highly recommend that you spend the time learning how to safely make any adjustments. If you are under the coach when the air system loses all air, the results can be catastrophic. Please be careful. If I am going to get under mine, I run it up on 4" blocks and then put jack stands under the frame. Having 35,000 pounds fall on me is not a pleasant thought. Good luck exploring the source of the issue. I am surprised that some of your air springs are deflating but not that one. I think my coach has a single dump valve for deflating and I assume yours does also. Richard

The answer depends on whether you have air leveling or not. If you have air leveling, you have a problem with a solenoid sticking. If you do not have air leveling, then you probably have a broken or maladjusted ride height valve on that side. Richard

Thank you all for your helpful comments. It does seem that it is receiving a false shutdown signal. I had not even considered the AGS. I will reprogram the AGS and see if it makes any difference. The difficulty of course is that it is a random happening. I don't seem to be able to force it to happen. At times I have let it run for hours in my driveway under load and it has run fine. At other times, it will run for a couple hours and then shut down. I will keep your comments in mind and continue to observe its functioning to see if I can determine what is causing the shutdown. Does anyone know which particular lighted Carling switch was used to control the generator from the dash? Thanks! Richard

Thanks Ivan! However, when my generator quits, the light on my generator is not lit (it is lit when the generator is running). No light, no blinking, nothing. I don't seem to be getting any error codes. Does the light on the dash switch also indicate error codes? The light on that switch has been burned out for years. I have just gotten along without it since I could not find a direct replacement for the switch or a way to replace the micro bulb in the switch. Richard

My Onan QD8000 is also randomly shutting down after 2 or 3 hours run time in the heat. I have tried to retrieve the fault codes (blink codes) with no success. Either no fault code is being set or I am doing things wrong. I have tried to follow the description for retrieving the codes printed in the manual, but nothing displays. Can someone give me a quick tutorial on this process? Thanks Richard

Tim I am having the same problem with my Magnum remote. Evidently the button contacts are corroded and not making contact. If anyone has knowledge as to disassembling and repairing, I am also in need. Richard

By chance is the pedal assembly part # 19837 the same part just a different color (white)? Might be your only option. They seem to be available.

James I also have an old AT&T Mobley SIM card that I use when traveling. I used to have a T-Mobile cell phone, but found the coverage to be terrible unless in urban areas. I switched my cell to the Verizon senior plan with unlimited hot-spot data. I either use AT&T or Verizon whichever has the best throughput where we are located. It is usually the AT&T Mobley, but right now we are down on the White river in Arkansas and Verizon is working better. Richard James I have also been considering the WeBoost RV cell signal booster. My grandson has one when he travels and he really likes it. However, the $500 price tag has been a deterrent to me. Richard

Richard I think you missed the part in that picture where the bolt head has cut a groove in the side of that Toyo tire. The other Richard.

Be careful with solvents on phone cable connectors. I once grabbed the wrong can and sprayed an RJ11 connector with carb cleaner. The plastic connector fractured, shattered and fell apart in my hand. I had to go find a new connector and crimper to rebuild the cable end. Richard

Mike Another member with the same vintage coach was having the same issue (I do not remember if it was here or on IRV2). He solved the issue by having the tire shop install spacers behind the wheels. Good luck. I also wonder if installing a slighter narrower tire would solve the issue (11.00R22.5). Richard

I replaced my fresh water dump valve on my '06 Beaver Monterey this past winter. It is simply a 1.5 inch gate valve just like the ones that dump the grey water. There is a rectangular shaped sheet metal housing screwed up to the bottom below the fresh tank (about 6 screws). Remove that and you will find the gate valve with a small 12 volt powered actuator motor. Removing and replacing the gate valve with a new one is relatively straight forward. When I put it back together, I did have to make a few minor adjustments to the mechanism to get the gate valve to fully close (it is just clamped onto the plastic gate valve body). Good luck with your replacement. Richard

Take a look at this video from Darren at MY RV Works Inc in Port Angeles Washington. He shows the control box he built from off the shelf components.

Sorry Mike! I just mailed it to Brad Henderson in Canada. Richard

Some time back (i don't remember how long), someone was looking for a battery temp sender for a Xantrex inverter/charger. While cleaning my garage recently, I stumbled on a new one that I had kept many years ago. I also have the remote on/off switch and cable for the inverter/charger. These are new, never used. If anyone out there still needs either of these, let me know. For $20 I'll package it and ship it to you. Richard

I have been chasing the same issues on my '06 Beaver. My issues have come about because I spend Winters on the Texas gulf coast. Moist salt air seeps in and attacks the aluminum. If you scrape off the paint, you will find the powdery white oxidation of salt corrosion of the aluminum. The only solution is to remove the oxidation down to bare metal and prime and paint. I keep small cans of touch up paint that match the colors on my coach. I notice on your first picture, streaks down the side below the corner of your slide. That is an indication of water intrusion from above. I would suggest a careful inspection of the top of the slide and any openings in that slide. The tops of my slides have been sealed with Eternabond tape to minimize such intrusion. Please stay on top of this, water intrusion is a huge factor in RV deterioration. Richard p.s. Recaulking all seams regularly and keeping the coach well waxed goes a long way toward minimizing these issues.

I ordered that battery powered FM transmitter. It is cheap and I want to see how it works. I searched to see if I could find one that is 110 volt AC powered so I could plug it in with the TV and not have to deal with replacing batteries. Alas, I was not able to locate one. If anyone knows of one that is permanently powered, please share with the rest of us. Thanks. Richard

Thanks Ray! That is the one that was recommended.

Help! A few days ago someone posted a recommendation to use a small FM transmitter plugged into the TV headphone port to get access to the amp and use the on board speakers for the TV. I made a mental note of the brand of the transmitter and then had a senior moment and lost the note. I have searched for the original post and have not been able to find it. Can someone point me in the right direction. Thanks. Richard

The sad part about this design of slide topper is that the first 4 inches or so of the material is exposed to the elements. Over time and sun exposure that 4 inches of material will be destroyed. When we first purchased our 2006, we addressed that issue (it was not as bad as yours). We removed the fabric from all of our slide toppers (4), and found there to be an excess of material rolled up on the roller that was like new. We cut off the 4 inches of bad material and resewed all the seams (the thread was deteriorating also). The material was installed reversed to it's original orientation to take advantage of the like-new material on the other end of the roll. That was six years ago. The material now needs to totally be replaced, but at least we got an extra six years out of them. Whatever you do, be cautious and safe and make sure you correctly pin the spring wound rollers before removing them. Serious damage can be done with all that stored energy in those springs. Richard

We have not had any response from the OP (Stephen). Makes me wonder if he just "poked the hornets nest" to see what kind of response he would get. Richard