Steven P

I initially thought it was gonna be the door, but with my wife standing inside and me outside w a water hose, it did not leak until we got the water above the awning. I appreciate all the input and will be looking at each idea and report back. Keep em coming in the meantime. Thanks!

@klcdenver thanks for the input. Yes, please post a pic.

I have been chasing a water leak above the door when it rains. Today I cleared out old silicone and dicor and added new proflex above the door, awning, upper beltline etc in the area above the door. I also added eternabond tape where there was none. Unfortunately the rain moved in again before I could add dicor back and the leak was just as bad as always. I don't think the dicor is gonna help. Has anyone dealt w similar issues? What worked?

Thanks. I've had that pair at least 5 to 6 years and holding strong.

Tim Lazaroe at rvcams.com knows his stuff and can help out w just about anything.

I finally replaced my kitchen faucet with a new one with the built in sprayer. I used shark bites to add shut off valves to the sink since there were none previously. I also replaced my old Weldex camera with a new one that was direct plug and play from rvcams.com

Ed, I pulled my interior covers (4 screws and whole plastic cover) and w the ACs running I found that my ceiling liners were being sucked into the ducts. With it not running, they hang free and it's not noticeable. I easily trimmed those parts and that greatly improved airflow in the affected registers. It's well worth checking. One duct was blocked about 80%!

Maybe someone familiar w those will chime in. Did you look on the underside of the covers? My gasket was supposed to be there but wasn't on the replacements. Also, get the model #s and Google original documents and maybe you can find a schematic or pics showing them. Good luck.

I did that very thing last year. Took my inside covers off and w the ACs running it was pulling part of the ceiling into the duct. Of the 4 ducts total (2ACs), only one wasn't partially blocked. One was about 75% blocked. That helped a lot. Thank you for the congrats. Maybe I'm wrong, but I do not think the Diplomats came with drain lines. @Scotty Hutto @Doug Hoegh do you guys know? I don't have pics I took, but drilled based on this pic.

I thought I'd post an update after adding foam gaskets to my ACs and also drilling holes in the shroud where holes were optional to allow the hot, fan blown air to escape easier. Much better!! Yesterday the heat index here was just over 100 and the bedroom was actually cycling on/off staying at 72 degrees. The front unit ran the whole time but kept it comfortable around 77 deg. My front area has always been harder to keep cooler like all these motorhomes. The one thing I could use some help with that has started since I made these changes is I have a drip from only the front AC. When I added the foam, I checked it over good and saw no blockages. When I remove the inside cover, the drip appears to be condensation coming off the blower housing. I tightened the 4 housing bolts w/no success in stopping the drip. I haven't tried opening the register fully at the AC to dump the air there as it gets so much louder. Thoughts? Thanks in advance.

I installed one soft start in the bedroom and was looking forward to less of a thud when the compressor starts. It seems to be the same or maybe even more of a thud now. I haven't tried on less than 50a yet.

With the soft starts, may I ask what you like about them? Using on 30A or 15A? Or something else?

Just installed my new Micro-Air thermostat last night and am very satisfied with it. The only issue I had was one screw broke off when mounting it to the wall plate. Maybe if I had drilled a larger pilot hole? Maybe the screws they send are cheap. My phone did tell me the app is frequently crashing and recs keeping the app closed when not using. I have an android. But so far, so good.

I grew up towing things. Boats, utility trailers, bush hogs and discs on tractors. Largest thing I ever towed was a Contender 31 fisharound --probably about 40 feet counting trailers/motors behind my F250. I always thought I'd have a travel trailer but my wife's small bladder always slowed us on trips so I saw the advantage of a MH. Rented a 32' class C and put just over 1k miles on it in a week w/no issues (other than how loud it was and the sway/wander). Bought our 40' Diplomat 2 weeks later and learned it by watching YouTube videos and as much online as I could. After 3 years, I've only gotten a couple of curbs w/the rear tires but no damage. Oh, and one PVC pipe and a few flowers in a turn one night. Our maiden voyage was 9 hours to Disney w/no cameras, only half the gauges worked and I had only driven about 75 miles in it so far. We left about dusk and of course it was raining. Got blown off onto the shoulder by a semi in a curve and then had a motorcycle and a Honda challenging each other close to me. Made it to our first stop and had a cold beer. The next AM, I turned R instead of L bc I didn't think I could make the median turn. Downtown Tallahassee was getting closer and closer when I found a church parking lot I could turn around in. Next someone cut me off for their exit and that was close and next I saw lots of braking and swerving outside of Orlando in 4? lanes of traffic. As I got closer I was able to avoid the Chevy truck's driveshaft laying in the middle of the interstate. Got parked at Disney and another cold beer. That maiden voyage got me learning to use the mirrors and rely on them and gave me the confidence I needed. One time, I almost pulled over and stopped to reconsider this, but didn't and kept going and relaxed. Now all my gauges work, most cameras work most of the time (lol) and I enjoy driving it. I love learning and knew I could learn to drive "Larry" and have no regrets. Still working FT so I don't get to use it as much as I hope to one day.

One of my first changes was to get rid of the Iota in my 06. I, too, read the different opinions regarding it but ultimately felt my and my family's safety and peace of mind were worth the change. I went w the Esco. I did the swap myself. Took maybe 2 hours? It wasn't bad, but wire length can make it a little tough as the Esco has the terminals differently than the Iota. When I announce I made the swap, I had many "why?!" "Keep the terminals tight and you're fine!" But in the end, I wanted better peace of mind and have that now. I have had no issues w my Esco and follow the turn off genny before plugging in rule, etc.. Steven

I saw your question before it was deleted. This was what I used.

My front AC (duo therm) started doing that before going to the Keys a few years ago. They do default to heat and I replaced the reversing valve ($35?) And no more issues since then.

My levelers were set to auto and one night the whole curbside was lifted off the ground. I recalibrated the system but since then I have only manually leveled. I have hydraulics, no air leveling.

@amphi_sc here is a pic of mine. I believe I got it about 2.5 years ago. No readings showing as I just turned it on.

I thought I'd give an update. After 2 to 3 weeks of the AC doing well, it started short cycling again. I realized that w the front AC set several degrees higher than the bedroom, the rear would cycle more often and sometimes short cycle. When I lowered the front room temp, the rear did better. When it started short cycling, I had installed the little sensor cover under the picture just for comparison and that made changes even though the sensor's position was relatively the same. I did a hard reset on the thermostat w no change. Now I have the pic down again and the sensor moved and will see how it goes. That sensor seems to be very sensitive.

Mine is not the color monitor. I have the monochrome version.

I've had a TST 507 about 2.5 years with no issues. I just changed 2 batteries for the TOAD. Those are the only batteries that needed changing so far. I have flow thru sensors for the coach and cap sensors for the Toad. The only alarms I have had were the low battery alarms. Hopefully it will stay that way.

Nice. Like my situation, that should help a lot. Post pics if you can please.

I found my pic from my original cover where the service dept broke it. No holes in passenger side. No pics of driver side.

I just went to their website and see optional driver side venting. It makes sense you'd want to let the heat out best you can. I wonder why it's "optional"? Did the original covers come with vents back in 2006? If not, why not and were they added later for better performance? Also, why no passenger vents for the same reasoning? It'd be interesting to run some before/after tests w vents.