Steven P

I like that camera. Have you gotten used to using it. Likes, dislikes? I've been thinking about getting one.

I know a lady whose husband just passed. They have a Tiffin she's wanting $75k for. She thinks it's around an 06. Last I saw it, it looks to be 40ft. Spanish Fort, AL

I pull out the lever in the front of mine.

Well, I wanna thank you guys. Microwave is back up and running. Added a new plug to it, removed the old outlet, installed an old work, shallow box and a 20a heavy duty receptacle. I only measured 7.6A on the microwave on high and measured it across the hot and neutral before I put the plug cover on. Hardest part of this is trying to make sure I canceled the microwave I ordered from Sharp. Their seems to be a little language barrier when talking with some of their help desk. 🤔 I'm hoping this was the source of my gfci in the bathroom tripping.

My ampmeter only shows amps used if on genny or maybe inverter, not while plugged into 50a. I'll look more. Definite corrosion in the receptacle, but I'm not seeing other signs. I wonder how much is due to good old condensation.

Interesting info to wake up to. I don't think the microwave is bad. When I wiggled the plug it came back on. I guess I figured the microwave was part of the issue and not so much the outlet. Also, I thought Monaco used these single plugs here for a reason and didn't realize I could put a duplex in. I will gladly run to HD today and get a duplex and a new cord end. I'd rather do that. For checking the amps, I should look for a device that plugs into the outlet and then plug the microwave into it? I have a clamp on ammeter, but I'll either need to pull part of the cord cover off or get to the inside of the microwave so that plug in device seems easier. Yes, wr have run it off the inverter before. It's been a while though. Thank you all.

Update: see several posts down for the outcome. I noticed my microwave had no power so I checked the cord and outlet. See pics. So I have a new outlet ordered from ebay and a replacement microwave from Sharp. Mine is a Sharp r1874 from 2005 Andis a convection oven too. Per recommendations on this site, I called Sharp and they were very helpful. They said there are 2 models that should swap out w no issues. R1874ty and R1881LSY. The r1874ty is more like what I have, but hard to find currently. $1500 on Amazon, $629 plus $100 shipping on another site. So I'm getting the r1881lsy from Sharp $599 w free shipping. I haven't pulled the outlet out of the wall yet, but plan to tomorrow and wirenut it off til the replacement comes.

Just more food for thought here. I once read that around 80% of the dirt (dust) we bring into our homes comes in on out shoes. I try to leave my shoes near the front door to help that out. But, I too, notice the dust. I figure having 2 dogs is a big part of my problem. And this old carpet.

I agree. That's why I waited approx 30min after shutting off the water in each spot before moving to another spot. I hope this is it, but at least I know it's not in the last 6 feet 😅. Thank you.

I have an update to my water leak above my door. I thought I had it, but nope. So today, I started spraying around the door and then waiting 20 to 30 minutes and watching for water. I kept working my way towards the back of the coach and when I got the water to the back part where the awning attaches, the drip started. I found a place where some of the sealant had broken free and I scraped the whole area, cleaned it well, applied eternabond tape on the seams and Dicor to follow. Finished just before dark. I have a pic post scraping, but didn't get one after the sealing. I'll work on that later. Now to wait and see. If that doesn't do it, the next most likely place is the roof vent nearby above the 1/2 bath. Steven

Definition of boat: a hole in the water into which you sink money. That's what my dad always said, especially running 80 miles offshore for tuna in a 31'Contender. We have been enjoying our current boat since 2014, but my wife is asking for a larger one w a smoother ride. The irony 🤣

Maybe the kit you see is for 8? You can add bunches of them. Website says up to 110 sensors for multiple trailers.

Personally I think it's too high. Have you seen this listing? Newer model w higher ceiling. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/276647470932044/

When I bought our coach, most of the gauges did not work. I bought a Scangauge D and hooked to the dx port by the steering wheel. It gives all gauge information except tranny temp. I do not use it for a fuel gauge, but you can tell it how much you have at fillups and it will calculate it. It does not account for the generator. Now that my Aladdin is working, I mainly use it, but I like having the Scangauge as a backup and I keep my main info showing on it.

@6Wheels thank you. Good to know. Good luck coach shopping!

I called Talin RV and Ingrid helped me get the measurements correctly. Since they make the toppers, I wanted to do them their way. @throgmartin

@jad050 Here is a link from my post last year. It may help some. Hey all. I am in need of replacing my bedroom slide seals and will be replacing the slide topper at the same time. I have the topper from Talin RV and need to purchase the slide seals. My wiper seems to not touch the top of the slide currently. I will be ordering guardian plates to install too. I know Steele Rubber is a good source for the seals. My questions: how daunting of a task is this? Is there anything special I need to measure or pay attention to? Are the wiper widths a one size fits all or are they in different lengths? Is there a good step by step source, video for this? Thank you, Steven https://www.monacoers.org/topic/239-slide-seal-replacement-help/?do=findComment&comment=1578

My bedroom slide was leaking and I thought it was from the wiper, however looking closely on the slide roof, there was a low spot w a tiny hole in it. I'm thinking that hole formed due to the water standing there over time. Eternabond tape and dicor and no more leaks. Replaced all the wipers then too.

Just another update if anyone wants to know the outcome. I found a new place that has done the best. Kind of in the corner under the TV cabinet about a foot from the original location. I've just left the sensor resting there but am thinking of a permanent move there. Also, my front sensor is on an outside wall which is not recommended per the AC installation instructions and I found the sensor was turned back in going into the wall. I reversed that and showed a paper towel into the hole and it keeps the Temps better. However, that wall will easily read low 80s on a normal day so I turn that thermostat to about 81 in the day. Keeps the room about 74.

Are you liking the MaxxAire better than the Fantastic Fan? I have one fan I may need to replace soon and am looking into those.

@Bob Jones it's best to measure your current fridge and opening and then compare those measurements to the measurements of the fridge you desire. Those dimensions are on the website where you want to buy the fridge. Equally important is the air flow space requirements on the top and sides which is also listed. Most of us w the furnace underneath have used slotted steel braces and marine plywood to create a new, sturdy floor for the new fridge, so that may need to be done. I had some rot and Mildew to fix too.

I added the GE GYE18... above my furnace. Had to lower the floor that the fridge sits on, but did not have to alter the furnace. I wanted water and ice in the door and have been pleased overall. My MSW Magnum inverter seems to like it just fine and vice versa.

I typically get parked, deploys slides, then dump air, then level (jacks only). I do not have air leveling, only hydraulic jacks. My air dump takes around 1 to 2 minutes, long enough that I put a clothespin under the switch so I can do other things. Once it gets to about 30, it stops on its own and if I want it to get to zero, I pump the brakes or just wait a couple of days and it leaks out. My coach dumps all driver side air before the passenger side, causing a "lean to the left" for a little bit. Recently, I've started leaving the jacks down when starting the engine and airing up and retracting the jacks once the bags are partially full. Due to the left lean, I will not be leaving the jacks down (as in storage) and dumping air as I worry what that angle of lean could do to the jacks. When airing up, there is no angle, so the jacks are straight. I watched a new model Tiffin level and dump and build air very quickly one day. Looked like the cars with hydraulics.

@Paul A. good idea. Thanks!