Steven P

Are the hoses I circled going thru the floor and open underneath the coach?

Eddie, You mentioned needing the propane option of the fridge working to keep food cool while traveling. You can run the genny for fridge power and not use propane during travel. Then you can run your rooftop ACs also to keep the coach cooler. If your trips are just a few hours and your fridge is cold when you start, you could not run the fridge until you get to your destination. Just keep it closed. I'm glad you have found the issues. That's good news. Even though your batteries are new, if just one goes bad, it can ruin all of them. You can usually have an auto shop test them for free. Just take pics of the wiring before unhooking. For reference, your genny should always be able to charge the house batteries. That's part of its job. My Magnum charger has an on/off button for the charger though so you can turn off the charger if needed. With your MH engine cranked and running, your alternator will charge the chassis (engine batteries) as priority, and likely charge the house batteries once the chassis batteries reach a certain point. You would need to know more about the system you have though. I was having issues in this regards and found a bad relay that was not letting my house batteries charge from the engine alternator while on the road. Replaced the relay and working again. One last thing, if those are flooded batteries, check all water levels today and fill appropriately. With all of this going on, you may have low levels. And another "laster" thing, you can use an external battery charger on the house batteries if the onboard charger is not on. I believe (and someone will correct me if I'm wrong, I hope), if the batteries are all hooked up in the coach, just hook the pos and neg cables from the external charger to the same battery terminals that the main house cables are hooked to and set for 12V charging.

I agree w above, it sounds like your generator is not doing its job. That could mean your breaker is off at your generator or your transfer switch is not working. If it all works when hooked to shore power, but no ac power (check outlets) on genny, start at genny. Post pics if you can.

I'd suggest starting with a toner to check the connections first. It is possible that the cable on the coach is just not up to specs and not going to work. Can you find the same type of cable and try it to see if it will work? I have Dish and a Tailgater. I was able to use the coax the PO used for his satellite which is drilled through the roof at the front of the coach. The satellite hookup in the rear bay has never worked for me.

So, you were able to hook the 2 triangular connectors together? The one from FRB and the one next to the driver's seat. Did you make or get an extension? I haven't been able to check mine yet.

Referring to my Magnum inverter and remote, I downloaded a more current manual from Magnum and it helped explain the settings a lot. Having 4 Trojan T105s wired in series parallel puts me at 400ah of capacity. That calculates to 80% charge rate from Trojan's spec sheet. Per the Magnum instructions, I set to AGM2 which is for Trojan, Deka, and some other batteries. AGM is for lifeline (if I remember correctly). Is there a way to update firmware on these? I would imagine that would be something done at rallies...if they come back. Thank you all.

Nicely done! Looks like you are ready for another project. I volunteer mine!!

That's great and makes me wonder if mine has the same issue. Any chance you have pics of these plugs? Thanks.

Update: finally got my batteries. Got 4 of the Trojan 6v T105 AGM Reliant. Wired up and am setting my Magnum inverter up. Currently I am set for 400ah, 80% charge rate, AGM type. Once I installed, everything looks OK. Seeing 14.6V on absorb charge. 23A. I'm hooked to 110v and running a couple lights and fridge. Can someone explain amp hours for me? Battery label shows 171ah at 5 hours each and 115min at 75amps. I'm wired in series parallel. Thanks.

Winegard was actually very helpful for me on more than one occasion. When we bought our coach. It had an older Winegard satellite on it that I was having trouble with. I felt it was easy to get someone on the phone and they even stayed on the phone for 20 or so minutes after hours for troubleshooting.

Wrong post, sorry. Edited to correct.

That's great news. Glad it worked out for you. You should be able to get an extension custom wired for you.

Good luck. I looked for pics and this is the closest I have to describe where mine is.

I may can help a little here with this one after my recent transmission issue. 2006 Diplomat, 400ISL, Allison 3000 tranny. I have a scangauge hooked to the port under the steering wheel and have never been able to see the transmission temp there. My Aladdin shows it, so I'm fine with that. Jump forward: when my transmission went into limp mode last Nov, the Allison tech tried getting tranny data from the ports under the steering wheel and in the FRB with no luck. He hooked into the one under the engine hatch (zip tied to the tranny dipstick) and got all his info. That one is black in color and the other 2 are gray. He explained that there was no tranny info on either of my front ports and that's why I cannot see the temp there. You may wanna see if you have that black port and check there too? If so and it works, reach out to Bluefire? I hope this helps a little.

Good thinking. I bet the Dish remote will control the soundbar too. I certainly like Bose sound and would've loved that for the soundbar. I went w Insignia for a few reasons: 1)small and lightweight. 2 screws hold it up and it is in there pretty tight. 2)cost $50-- I'm working FT so we are not able to use it a bunch, especially this year, so spending a lot didn't make a whole lot of sense in my situation (and I like bells and whistles:) 3) lots of great reviews on Best Buy's website. I debated bw this one and the next expensive one which was like $70. The only reason I chose this one was the smaller size, less weight. For what it's worth, I used the optical cord, but it has RCA inputs if preferred for movement. Good luck!

Our bedroom TV has always been hard to hear. Today I installed an Insignia small soundbar under it and it has great sound. $50 plus an optical cord. Has a remote, Bluetooth, etc...

For the topper, I was on their website earlier searching for some info on the SOK iii. They have a lot of different pdfs on their site and you may find some help there. You might try Googling that awning and look for a video.

I got an email from Steele Rubber and this seems simple enough. I suspect my gaskets are original with the ACs on my coach. I am not experiencing any issues currently, but on occasion I have to tighten the bolts in mine to stop leaks or condensation from dripping. Now that I see how easy it looks to replace them, I am curious to see if anyone has used Steele Rubber for their AC gaskets. Thanks. https://steelerubberrv.wordpress.com/2019/10/29/how-to-replace-your-rv-a-c-gasket/

Would the TV port not go to the TV or to the switch box before the TV? I don't have an amplifier on mine so I'm not sure. Can you post pics of what you have?

Saw this on FB.

Here is the link where I ordered mine from. @Scotty Hutto is right, clip the old wires close to the lights and attach the new wires to the old which allows slack. Whatever connectors that they used in the cap (body) are not gonna fit easily thru the hole and you risk losing the wire in the cap. I also replaced w stainless screws. My lights basically came apart in pieces and I think I had to scrape some parts off. I did not have proflex available and I used 3m liquid gasket maker but only in the screw holes and the center hole the wire comes through. My lights came w a gasket for each that I also used. https://pdxrvwholesale.com/products/amber-and-red-12-diode-led-marker-light-complete-kit-l14-0026ar-kit

The PO of our coach did that. I don't know the source, but he used 12V puck lights and wired to the existing wiring. In this pic, he added this one w its own switch. But if you look further down the image you can see another row.

I have no idea if this will help you but I have a similar wire to the gray jacketed one in my coach that the PO installed. It appeared to connect to a Remco lube pump for his Toad. Other than that, I can say that open ended wire plugs have always bothered me, but unfortunately most cars come wired prepped for all the options w wiring harnesses that are not used. I guess it is cheaper to have everything wired ready for the add on even if they weren't added on. Such as heated seats.

The size you will need is a 1.5DIN radio and there's not much out there. Many of us enlarged the hole for a double DIN radio as Scotty's pic above shows. That is what I also did and would be my suggestion. Car audio shops or Best Buy could do the install for you.

I'll start with the parks since I suggested this topic. Living in S Alabama, one of our places we like to stop for an overnight stay is Tallahassee RV park right off I10. Smaller park, but they have always been nice and have several pul thru sites. I'll attach the website. http://tallahasseervpark.com/