k7jv

Those are nice looking assemblies, and yes, they are completely different from our Dynasty. You mentioned Dremel work. I also had to use my Dremel to remove some protrusions on the lenses I purchased for our coach. Interestingly, I looked really close at the originals that I took off of the coach, and lo and behold you could see where Monaco ALSO had to grind off the same protrusions. Anyway, all is good, and it sounds like you've got yours under control as well. Cheers, and a very Happy New Year to you and to all! Prayers it is better than 2020!! Like the bumper sticker says, "Get in, sit down, shut up and hang on!" 😊

Check out this Amazon item. This is what we purchased for our '06 Dynasty, and they may be the same as yours. They worked out GREAT! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000A6THZI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 They fit the late 1990's Ford Econoline vehicles, as I recall. Not very elegeant sounding for a Monaco Executive or Dynasty, but they have held up well. Bought them in 2013. Different item number for left vs right. You will need two of each. One left (upside down on one side) and one right (upside down on the other side) on each corner. It looks like they are about $19 each, times four. Not bad. If Monaco sold them, they would be over $100 each, I'm sure!

No, I wish it did. We had the choice, but our previous coach had the Spendide unit in it, and we really did like it. We opted for the storage above the washer/dryer rather than the pair. We've spent over 40% of the nights since we took delivery of our coach in November 2005 in our coach, including 15 winters in Arizona. And we've never once used a laundromat. Every single load of laundry has been done in that dual unit. For us, we made a good choice.

Oh, and yes, I am hopeful you have a cupboard next to your washer/dryer, and hopefully the cupboard is on the right, as you view it. There, we have about a 10" x 24" "door" or cover that is easily removed to access the back of the unit. In any case, you should be able to see the electrical box that has the device inside of it. You can't see the device, as I recall, but if you pull the cover off of the box, it is there. At least that's how I remember it on our coach.

Woody, when we talk about 110 V or 120 V, we are talking nominal values, not absolute values. In our area, our utility is supposed to deliver 120 VAC, plus or minus 5% which means anything between 114 V and 126 V is within the "required" range. That 120 volt specification as at the service entrance to the facility. We sometimes see 110 volts or 115 volts on device nameplates, and those voltages relate to the design supply value at the receptacle where the device is plugged in. That allows for about 5 volts of drop thru the service entrance and the branch circuit conductors to the outlet. So really, anything between 114 and 126 volts AC is golden. It is not uncommon to see voltages down to 110 and below in RV parks, as many have old and now overloaded conductors causing significant voltage drop in their system. Also, it is very common to have a few volts of difference between line 1 and line 2. Don't be concerned of those numbers are two or three volts different from one another. Enough on that. Our shore cables and our on-board generators are designed to provide 240 VAC, protected by a two-pole 50 amp (or 40 amp which is common on our generators) breaker to our coaches. They use four conductors to accomplish that. One can be called Line 1, and it delivers 120 VAC (measured from that line to the neutral) to one half of your AC breaker panel to serve those loads. It will be either black or red. A second can be called Line 2, and it delivers 120 VAC (also measured from that line to the neutral) to the other half of your AC breaker panel to serve those loads. It will be either red or black. A third is the neutral. It is actually tied to "ground" at the feed-point of your system. The fourth is the ground for your system. Under normal conditions, you should be able to measure 120 volts AC from either L1 or L2 to either the neutral or the ground. The plug and the receptacle will have three parallel flat connectors. The right and left one are the two "hot" legs, L1 and L2. The offset middle one is the neutral. The round one is the ground. When you look at a 30 amp plug or receptacle, you will see only three terminals. One of the flat terminals is L1, the "hot" lead. The other flat terminal is the neutral. The round one is, again, the ground. So you only have one 120 volt source for your coach. In the 50 to 30 adapters that we use, the "female" plug that you connect to your coach cable ties the one hot lead from the 30 amp side to both of the "hot" lugs on your coach cable. So you wind up with the same 120 volt leg applied to both sides of your breaker panel. All of your 120 volt loads are happy. But anything that uses 240 volts will see absolutely zero volts, as those two lines are connected together in your pigtail adapter. Finally, note that you have a lot more power available to your coach with a 50 amp source as you have two 120 volt legs with 50 amps of capability on each. For resistive loads, you can multiply those two numbers and get the watts available. Fifty amps times 120 volts equals 6,000 watts, or 6 kW. But you have two hot lines, so you can actually receive 12 kW on your 50 amp supply. On a 30 amp source, you have one 120 volt leg with 30 amps of capability. That calculates to 3.6 kW. So you can actually power more than three times as much load on a 50 amp supply than you can on a 30 amp supply. An interesting reality. I hope I didn't over load anyone with this, but thought it might answer some remaining questions. And I'm very glad that you are back in business. Yay! Cheers to all. (I apologize in advance for any typos in this reply, as I'm sure there are several. My fingers don't seem to pay very good attention to my mind, any more.)

Woody, what did you learn, today? Wow. I thought about that possibility, but it would be a very involved process. To do it with conventional devices would require intercepting the 120 VAC power supply to each controlled device and adding a communication path to talk to it, along with developing a control device to make the smart decisions. Another option would be to do it with a LAN, preferable a Wifi LAN and enabled devices. But either way, coming up with a good load management system like I would envision would be quite the process. If I were a couple of decades younger and I was likely to continue RVing in our current coach, it could be worth pursuing. But at this point it will have to go on my "I sure wish I'd done that" list. Now, I look forward to finding out what Woody found out if he was able to do any testing of his transfer switch.

That is interesting. We learned by experience, fairly quickly, that when we were on 30 amp service we needed to tweak the setting on the Magnum to 30 amp, which helps control that demand. And we are careful to only allow one heat pump to have the thermostat enabled and we turn off the 120 VAC on the AquaHot. We get along well with that, but if we don't do the above, I find myself out resetting the pedestal circuit breaker. Dang! Our manual even states, "To avoid shore power overload when hooked to 30 Amp service, determine appliance current load prior to turning on appliances or using interior outlets." Later, it talks about the "Automatic Appliance Selector" which is to prevent shore power overload, but says it is applicable to the rear A/C and the washer/dryer, which was covered in the earlier posts. Note that in reality, those two devices share a common circuit breaker in the panel, so the truly high priority purpose of that particular load "management" device is to keep from overloading the in-coach circuit breaker more than the shore power breaker. I just went thru the '06 Dynasty Owners Manual searching on the word "Load", and there are dozens of places where it warns against overloading the shore power when less than a 50 amp breaker is used. So that is confirming that beyond the settings on the Magnum battery charging system and the A/C and Washer/Dryer device, and an electric cooktop device when it is installed, is the grand sum total of the load management technology in the '06 Dynasty. Interesting, eh?

Wow, Woody, that's crazy! According to Monaco's 120 volt inter-connection diagram, and according to my own beliefs, the shore umbilical and the main leads from the generator both go directly to the transfer switch, and from their to the shore breaker panel. It gets more complicated after that, but that shore breaker panel is where your A/C and your Washer/Dryer are fed so the further complications aren't a factor. So there is virtually no reason why the washer/dryer shouldn't work on shore power UNLESS the contact that ties Leg H2 (Leg #2 or Leg B) thru from the shore cable terminal on the contactor to the corresponding load-side terminal is in trouble. If that were the case, if you still have your Aladdin in service, it should tell you that when you are connected to the shore power and one leg isn't working you have a open leg. Woody, I don't know where else to look, right off hand. You could pull the cover off of the transfer switch and test for voltages on all nine terminals of the contactor. If you open that up, first BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL AS LETHAL VOLTAGES ARE PRESENT AND EXPOSED!! If you aren't comfortable working with that, please get someone qualified to help you. If you do this with shore power connected and your generator running, you should be able to measure 120 VAC (plus or minus 6 volts, ideally) from L1 to ground and L2 to ground on all three sets of terminals. You should also be able to measure 240 VAC from L1 to L2 on all three sets of terminals. Now, turn off your generator and test again. Of course the voltages will be gone from the three terminals associated with the generator, but you should get the same readings as before on the shore connections and the load connections. If you do not, the transfer switch contactor is in trouble. If you do get the same readings, I'm going to throw up a white flag. Lastly, all of the above assumes that neither the washer/dryer NOR the rear A/C will operate on shore power. If the A/C will but the washer/dryer will not, and yet both can operate while on generator power, all bets are off, and I'm stumped and out comes the white flag, again. Schematic - 110V and 12V Inter-connection Diagram.pdf Schematic - 110V Breaker Panel Connections Diagram.pdf

I don't know how your cabinetry is laid out, but in our '06 Dynasty Countess III, I can at least see it in two ways. There is a little "hatch" in the floor of the cupboard above it. If I empty out the two shelves and remove the one just above the washer/dryer, I can lean in and look down and access everything behind the unit, at least with a flashlight to see what is going on. A larger choice is a "door" that they put on the side wall of the adjacent closet unit. Pull that cover and you have fairly good access. The washer/dryer does NOT have to come out to get to the load control device that you are looking for. Also, when you say "power shedding" I am assuming (with all the risks that go with the word "assume") you are talking about the device that routes power to either the #3 heat pump OR to the washer/dryer and that we are on the right track for trying to help you. There are two relays in one of the two breaker panels, but they are NOT power shedding or load management devices. One is the 12V operated relay to route the 120VAC to the engine block heater duplex outlet box in the engine compartment, and the other is for the electric water heater, if the coach has an electric or dual source powered unit on board. The only two true "load management" systems in our '06 Dynasty are unrelated. One is the transfer relay you are looking for that selects either the #3 heat pump or the washer/dryer, and the other is the set-point on the Magnum for shore power availability where you can limit the AC draw for battery charging, when the electric source may be a limiting problem for you, such as when plugging into a 120V outlet at your home to keep the batteries up and the refrigerator cold. Our coach does NOT have any other true load management system(s) in place, and none were made known to us when we were specifying our coach options for manufacture. I truly believe that, since my career was in the power supply industry, I would have been keenly aware of the importance of such options and would not have left it out on our coach. To me, a true load management system would "know" whether 50 amp or 30 amp power was available and would either prevent loads from coming on line that would overload the source or would turn loads off on a pre-established priority when other loads come on to keep from overloading the source. Our coach absolutely does NOT have anything built into it to accomplish that task. I wish it did!!

Just looked at our manual for the '06 Dynasty to see if there were steps you could take to do what "amphi_sc" described, but there was nothing. Rats. Sounds like something that would have been a good idea. BUT, it does say that the fuse for the step is in the REAR run box. I looked at my pictures, and yes, it is there. It is on board #4, in the stack of boards on the left side of the run box. The manual says it is labeled "STP IGN", but on our coach it is labeled "STEP". On ours, it is the bottom fuse and is a 20A fuse. I hope that helps.

You are right, David. I was just using the space heater as an energy comparison, not necessarily suggesting the use of one to do what the OP is trying to accomplish. In our coach, fortunately, the AquaHot is in the same space as the three tanks so virtually all of the heat loss from the AquaHot unit is "used and useful" for protecting them from freezing. Not so much the above the floor, inside the coach plumbing, though. For that, like you said, the other zones would become involved and the electric heating element source alone would really fall short if the outside temperatures get very low.

Look at Vito's comments above. The electric element is rated at 1,650 watts. Many of your common "space heaters" that you bring home from Best Buy or Bed Bath and Beyond are rated up to about 1,500 watts. That is also about how much heat energy your AquaHot is going to be able to deliver using only the electric source. Think of the heating capability of your AquaHot as being about the same as that little space heater. It may do what you need it to do, but often it may fall short. Just recognize that it will only keep it as warm as it can. Quick lesson in basic heat transfer. Your coach interior is at some temperature. The outside is at some colder temperature. The rate of heat loss from inside the to the outside of your coach is directly proportional to the difference in those two temperatures. That heat loss can be measured in BUT per hour. (If you want to play with the math, there are 3412 BTU in one kilowatt-hour. Also, watts is a measure of power. BTU is a measure of energy, which is power multiplied by time.) If the temperature difference between the outside and the inside results in more BTU per hour of heat transfer out of the coach than what the AquaHot heating element can supply, two things absolutely will happen. One, the temperature inside the coach will gradually go down until the resulting difference in temperature equals what the heating element can supply. That will be the best it can do. Two, the AquaHot zone will be running 100% of the time until the outside temperature finally warms to the point that the heating element can supply enough energy to keep up with satisfying your thermostat setpoint. Put simply, if that little space heater would be strong enough to keep your coach from freezing up anywhere (assuming you can get the heat where is needed), your AquaHot will be able to do that same job using just the electric element.

On our 42' 2006 Dynasty I try to keep it between 115# and 120# on the steer tires and between 80# and 85# on both the drive and the tag tires. We've run those pressres for over 15 years. The front tires need all of that. The tire charts actually come in under 80# based on weight for the drive and tag tires, but the note on the sidewall of the tires say 80# minimum pressure, cold. We ran Goodyear for the first 9 years and have been on Michelin for the past 6.

I attached another of my sketches that shows, very basically, what the layout is in our front run box, and you are right, we don't have a board #16. You are right about the cable designators and the J designation. The TS stands for "Terminal Strip". The one I referred to in my drawing is in the upper left corner of the inboard wall of the front run box. I don't know if the relays are all alike, or not. Actually, there are a number of them that are sized or shaped different from others. I am not comfortable with calling a relay an "87 relay". The 87 refers to the normally open (NO) contact. Most, if not all, have one operating coil and one or more sets of contacts. They may be SPST, SPDT, DPST or DPDT. The first two are "single pole" (SP, used in a single circuit) and the second are "double pole" (DP, used in two circuits). The single throw (ST) will be either a normally closed (NC) or normally open (NO). The double throw (DT) will have a common contact that is tied to one or the other of the two remaining contacts. All of that is determined by either the printed configuration on the relay or can be found by looking up the relay device number on the housing. They are chosen in each case depending on the use for that particular circuit. Terminal 30 is the common, 87 is the normally open terminal and 87a is the normally closed terminal. Terminals 85 and 86 are typically the operating coil. Polarity is not a factor, as a rule. Your ABS experience is strange. The interaction you are experiencing makes no sense. My schematic shows the tow harness receptacle getting its signals directly from the steering column via a dashed line. I suspect you may be looking at their drawing #3801001. I've not assigned significance to the dotted line. On my drawings, yes. On Monaco's, I think they just use that as one of several line formats to make it easier to follow it on the drawing. On mine, it shows the functional tie between the operating coil of a relay which may be somewhere else in a schematic than the contact(s). Monaco is giving almost more of a wiring diagram than a schematic in that it keeps device geometry and relative location a factor on the drawing. On my schematics, it is far easier to have the power supply bus at the top and the neutral bus at the bottom, and then to show all of the connections between the two on any part of any system. In my sketch, the brake light relay coil is about mid-drawing, but the contacts in that relay are on the right side in the current path from the fuse, thru the contacts, to the lights and to the neutral. Looking at the first sketch I sent you, there are three sources for control power for the brake light system. It can come from fuse #6 on either board #5 or board #6 as well as from fuse #1 on board #8. Fuse #1 on board #8 is for control from the engine brake system. Fuse #6 on board #5 is for control from the SmartWheel as it is involved with the turn signal functions. And fuse #6 on board #6 is for control from the pressure switches on the brake system, itself. But if fuse #3 on board #2 in the rear run box is pulled, on our coach, there is no way for the brake lights to come on unless the wiring has been compromised, somewhere. I wish I was where you are, to be able to help. But you've pretty much exhausted the information that I have available, particularly where our coaches aren't as close as I would have expected them to be. I would not rule out the possibility that K4 on board #2 in the rear run box might be "sticking". We had that happen on our coach when it was only about 3 years old, but in our case it was the tail lights that were staying on. I wound up replacing the relay in the front run box to fix that problem. I ordered the relay on-line using the part number imprinted on the relay. I narrowed the problem to that device by waiting until the problem happened and then very gently tapped on that relay with the handle of a screwdriver, and sure enough, the lights went out. Hang in there. You'll get it solved, yet. Also, if you want to pop me an email you can do that to k7jv@yahoo.com. Good luck! Layout - Front Run Panel (Front 3).pdf

Good morning, JBB. Some time back, I made a schematic in a format more readily understandable than what Monaco produced. I'm attaching the one I made for the brake light system on our '06 Dynasty. I suspect yours is very similar. You will see one or more question marks on the drawing, and that's because the Monaco documentation that I had didn't give me what I needed to go further, and I didn't chase wires to ferret it out. (Maybe I shouldn't use the word ferret, where you're dealing with your new rodent problem!!) Looking at my drawing, though, the brake lights themselves are powered from the rear run box fuse. The only "tie" to the front of the coach is the control for the K4 relay on board #2 in your rear run box. Looking at my sketch, that control source comes thru that giant front run box connector J3, feeding from terminal TS1 (the fifth one, left to right) in the front run box. But that said, If you pulled that rear run box fuse on board #2, you should have removed the ONLY source of power to the lights, themselves. So even if K4 was "sticking" ON, with the fuse in the rear run box pulled, the lights should not have illuminated. My drawing does not show the connections for the tow plug. That least me to think that "Bliksem"'s lead is a good one. That tow plug is one point where you could be getting a back-feed to the brake light circuit. Hopefully my little sketch can be of help to you, or someone. I'm looking forward to hearing what you find. Hopefully the mice are innocent of any wiring damages in your coach!!!! I've heard some horror stories, but hopefully you found out about them in time and can dispatch them before they hurt anything. Cheers for now! Schematic - Brake Lights.pdf

We had a second outdoor one mounted behind the nose, driver's side, down pretty low forward of the firewall for the outside when we had the Silverleaf replacement for the Aladdin installed. The original was where "Bill B" said his was. Originally, it was tie-wrapped to the front A/C drain hose as it ran down thru that compartment from the top of the drivers-side opening to below the coach. (I took that loose on our coach and tie-wrapped it further down that drain hose so that it just did extend below the floor. I felt that would give it a more true reading than further up in the compartment. I don't know if it helped at al.). I think the "basement" one was mounted to the bottom of the floor (the ceiling) in the passenger side of the wet bay compartment. I think. You are looking for what looks like about a 2" long suppository (Ouch!!) on the end of that thermocouple cable. If you find what you think might be one of them, try immersing it in ice water in a cup, or spray it for three or four seconds with "Brake Clean" or a spray electronics cleaner to really chill it and see if it responds on your display.

Do not be concerned if your AC voltage is somewhat higher than 110 volts. At least in our part of the country, the standard for electric utilities is to provide 120 volts, plus or minus 5% to the service entrance of the home. That means the acceptable delivery voltage to the "home" is supposed to fall between 114 and 126 volts. When you see nameplates for appliances and devices, some will say 110 volts, or 115 volts, or 120 volts. The 110 and 115 numbers should be considered acceptable voltages at the appliance and 120 volts should be considered the nominal supply voltage. The industry standard is 120 volts. If we see less than 110, we are not happy and neither are the motors in the roof units. If we see more than maybe 128, I get a little nervous, and so does some of our electronic equipment and devices. David L was pretty much right on with the DC voltages that you should see. We are used to seeing voltages at or slightly below 12 volts when we've been sitting without charging power available for a while, and we're used to seeing even up into the low 14's, when connected to shore power or running the generator.

The Aqua Hot owners manual specifically says that it is OK to do that, at least for the model that is in our 06 Dynasty.

We have run ours with the fresh water loop "evacuated". We have been about 50/50 on whether we use antifreeze to winterize our '06 Dynasty, with one exception. We ALWAYS run the RV anti-freeze thru the AquaHot part of the system at the end of the process. AquaHot and Monaco essentially say that just doing the AquaHot with air is not an option. Once completed, enough water will flow back down to the bottom of the loops and will freeze and will cause failure and will eat up at least a hundred $100 bills!! At least by using AntiFreeze on that portion of the plumbing only, we minimize the amount of time in the spring to get the AntiFreeze taste out of the coach's plumbing system. Also, as one of the last steps, I blow that AntiFreeze out of the low point drain, as well. That further minimizes the concentration to deal with in the spring, and the only "liquid" remaining in the AquaHot in the spring will be the little bit of puddled AntiFreeze in the bottom of the loops instead of several feet of tubing full of the stuff. Finally, I am relatively sure we have run our AquaHot in years past after winterizing as above. When the boiler is heating, the zone 2 pump runs and acts as a "stir pump" to keep the boiler fluid circulating in the containment. This keeps from having excessively hot spots near the boiler interface wall. Personally, I would not be uncomfortable running the AquaHot for heat with the fresh water loop essentially free of liquid. I will offer a thought and let you digest it, as I will. If the burner is operated and at the same time zero domestic hot water is being used, the fresh water loops should reach essentially the same temperatures whether liquid is inside the loops, or not, as there would be zero cooling effect to the tubing walls from the liquid within them versus air being in them. So my belief is that the only requirement is that as long as any traces of liquid in the bottoms of the loops be unable to freeze at the temperatures they will be exposed to, i.e. AntiFreeze, operating the unit with it "evacuated" should be fine. As Collin Raye would say, "That's my story and I'm stickin' to it."

Any updates, Woody? As several pointed out, you have one of the buttons on your bathroom Intellitec switchplate that enables that AquaHot blower. When a zone calls for heat, two things happen. The AquaHot control board calls for the circulating pump to run for that zone, and 12 volts DC is "sent" to the respective blower(s). You have already taken the difficult troubleshooting step. You have verified that the blower fan on the heat exchanger is good. If you take the front cover plate off of your AquaHot, and you have a volt/ohm meter, you can easily check out the remaining pieces of the puzzle. HINT: Many years ago, I took the front cover plate off and then remounted it so that the right top and bottom screws on the cover plate went into the left top and bottom holes of its original position thus re-secureing the control board in its normal position. I then took the other two screws and secured the right side of the control board in its normal position. That offset the front cover plate to the left by about 9" or so. Now, whenever I open that bay door, I can easily access all of the terminal blocks as well as the reset button and the various LED's. Dealing with that cover plate was a pain in the keister. And my color-challenged eyes see the LED's WAY BETTER with the cover plate off. On the large terminal strip on the left side of the control board, about ⅔ of the way down, you should see two terminals with one labeled "#2 FAN +" and the other labeled "#2 FAN -". With the bathroom thermostat turned on, in the "FURNACE" mode, and set high enough to definitely call for heat, use your voltmeter to test for +12 volts with the black lead on the "#1 FAN -" terminal and the red lead on the "#1 FAN +" terminal on that strip. If you see 12 volts present and your fan still is not working, but it does work when you apply 12 volts to it yourself, then there is a problem with one or both of the conductors that run from that terminal strip to your bathroom AquaHot heat exchanger. If you do NOT see 12 volts present, your problem is with the control board for your AquaHot. The only remaining easy step to take would be to press the "RESET" button on that AquaHot control panel. If you get to this point and you still do not have 12 volts present on those two terminals, let us know. The repair cost may be going up, a bit.

This is a copy paste from our owners manual on our '06 Dynasty. "Winterize the Aqua-Hot: The Aqua-Hot can remain on during the winter months or it must be winterized with FDA approved RV antifreeze to prevent freeze damage. The RV antifreeze must be pumped through the Aqua-Hot until the solution appears at the hot water side of a faucet." They absolutely mean it. Like Speerfamily said, $10K seems to be the number that gets tossed around. From what I have heard over the years, folks that have gotten away with just using air are very fortunate.

Good morning. Wondering if you've had any success, yet. That Intellitec system doesn't really have many wires to check. There is only one 4-conductor connector on it that is part of a "daisy-chain" that goes to every one of your switch panels. It is power and data, only. You can put something like a table knife behind the bezel and it will pop off. It pops off just a couple of nano-seconds before you think it is going to break. Then there are two screws that you will be able to remove to take the switch unit out of the wall. There is a 4-pin connector that you can see on the front, but that is for programming the keypad functions. The connector you need to get to is on the back of the module. For us ('06 Dynasty with virtually the same system), I can either switch OFF and back ON the "salesman switch", or I can open the "house" battery disconnect for a few seconds. That allows the CPU to reset and it has always then been good to go. Knock on wood, right? Wilbo777 is absolutely right. Give a call to M&M if you don't have success. They are GOOD! If you wind up against it, time-wise, and you have to roll, you could take a jumper wire and touch 12 volts from one of the nearby power supply strip terminals to the terminal for the "slide out" or "slide in" connection on the appropriate module that you need to operate. BEFORE YOU DO, if you are going to do that, first temporarily remove that fuse. That will ensure that you can not and do not backfeed the module. That can get you going. Good luck!

Again, looking at the schematic (Attached), all of your inputs to operate the slides come from either the Intellitec modules "A" and "E" or from the rocker switch that operates the generator slide. I think you said that the slides would work if you had one person press the Intellitec keypad for the slide you want to operate and another press the rocker that operates the generator slide. If that is true, then all of the inputs to the HWH board are functional. Also if that is true, then the only circuit that is not working is the input for the pump that comes from channel 5 on the Intellitec "A" module. I believe that the possible failure points would be the wire and any of the connections between module "A" and the HWH box (or the point where that wire ties to the wire coming from the generator slide switch), the fuse on module "A", the "A" module itself or a new problem with the programming in the Intellitec controller that processes the slide operation commands. I am so sorry you are having this problem. If it were me, I would start by determining whether voltage is appearing at the HWH pump connection on the cable shown on the attached diagram when you press any of the slide buttons on any of the keypads. You could check for that at the generator rocker switch or you could puncture the slide pump wire coming into the HWH box to check for it. Have someone press any slide button on any of your keybads and you should see the same voltage there as you do when you operate the generator slide switch. If you do, somethings wrong in the HWH box, but I very highly doubt if that will be the case. If you get different results, something is wrong with one of the Intellitec piece of the puzzle like I described above. Good luck!! System - HWH Slide Connection Diagram.pdf.pdf

Looking again at the wiring diagram, it shows a #18 orange conductor from that terminal #5 on the Intellitec module "A" going to either pin #11 or pin #12 on a connector at the HWH control box. (I expect that box is mounted on your front firewall, pretty much eye level, so it should be really easy to check that out.) There is a second conductor, also implied to be a #18 orange going to either pin #12 or pin #11 on that same HWH control box connector. That second one is "fed" from the generator slide rocker switch in the front run box, which explains why you were able to have the pump operate from that location. For that to be the case, the HWH box is working. The problem pretty much has to be that circuit from the Intellitec module to the box. I don't know if that helps, but at least you know what the drawings indicate should be the way your coach was put together. That would leave the problem to likely be either the output point on the Intellitec module (I don't recall whether the LED on the module is on the module side or the load side of the fuses), the wire connection at that module, the conductor from that module to the connector at the HWH control box, or the connector itself, at the HWH control box (it appears that it might be a 12-pin connector). The drawing doesn't show any intermediate connectors, but I suspect there might be one or more in the path that could also be the culprit. One could likely be in the area of the Intellitec equipment in your closet. I am assuming you verified the fuse to be good at the module.

Check fuse #5 on your Intellitec module "A". That is the fuse that tells the pump to run when any of the house slides are operated. It may be labeled "SLIDE PUMP" and it should be a 5 amp fuse. Good luck. Looking at the schematic, that is the likely candidate for your problem.