granvillebarker

Thanks for the link to the remote sensor Bob. So my plan is to put the Easy-Touch thermostat in the front, replace all three penguin boards with the penguin-2 boards, run a rj-11 cable from the front unit to the middle unit through the ducts to link all three units together. Then repurpose the wires to the rear thermostat for the temperature sensor, replacing the thermostat with the sensor in the back. I could use a pair of the rj-11 wires for each of the temp sensor wires. 3 Penguin 2 boards @ $136 = $408 1 Easy-touch @ $250 1 Remote Temp Sensor @ $29 Not bad really, for remote control of 3 units. I think that's about what one Control4 home thermostat costs. I'll let ya'll know how this goes when I dive off into it. -- Granville Barker 05 Dynasty

Walter, What a great idea, that sounds easy and should work! I could get three of the new penguin-2 boards and an easy-touch. — Granville Barker

So your saying the CCC2 will run older units that the 5 button units controlled? I was looking at the EasyTouchRV, and it says its compatible with the CCC2 units. Has anyone tried one: https://www.microair.net/products/easytouch-rv-thermostat?variant=32199143555156 -- Granville Barker

We should all meet somewhere and have a air-leak party. I’m in the same boat, my tanks emptying overnight. I’ve heard the parking break leaking, I can torque the know and not hear it anymore. I know that doesn’t mean it’s not leaking. I keep a supply of o-rings and o-ring ointment for the HWH air leveling solenoids in the coach, is there a better replacement for them? The last leak I fixed was on the tag axel soleniod, Push to connect fittings had lost its springiness. Good luck chairing leaks. — Granville Barker 05 Dynasty

You might also take the covers off the VIP module and check the solder connections. I was recently following the thread about making headlights brighter and found the VIP module headlight pin had a bad solder joint and had melted the pin. I installed the relay and soldered the wire directly to the board. My 05’ Dynasty only needed a relay for low beams, it already had relays for left and right high beams. Does anyone know why this VIP module is copyright intellitec, just like all the Monaco fuse/relay boards? — Granville Barker

Looking at my schematics, I’d suspect the front/rear switch may be failing. Check to see if the LEDs that are lit up to the right of the rear switches are the same one one with the switch on front and rear. Here are the LED’s active for me. This is with the engine off in the pic below. It looks like the yellow ign relay light would be off if that switch was failing when in the front position.

In my coach the 12V compressor runs anytime you push a raise button with the engine off. My 12V compressor is located just left and fwd of the passenger drive wheels under the coach. About once every two years I have to pull it out, take the rear end off the motor and clean the brush trays so the brushes can move properly. I’ve put a shield under there around the motor, and that cut it down to two years from more often. You need two 9/16” wrenches to remove the 4 bolts holding the whole assembly, unplug the power wire and remove the air line using the quick release. I test it with a 12v power source after fixing the brushes, before putting it back under the coach. An Allen wrench and torx wrench will be needed to get the brush end off the motor. Take pictures and make sure you get it back together right or it might run backwards. — Granville Barker 05 Dynasty

One of my bay door handles broke as I was trying to open the door last night. Any idea where I can find chrome Tri Mark handles like a 2005 Dynasty has? In the past it’s been the clips inside that break, but I try to check them and replace them as needed, I’m not sure how I would deal with it if the handle to the holding tank bay or aquahot bay every fail, you can’t just crawl through from the other side and fix it.

I changed the thermostat and coolant, then checked the hydraulic fan to see if it went full speed with the controller unplugged. It did not, but In reading about the saurer-Danfoss fan controller, I’m not sure that’s a good test. Does anyone know the size/type plugs I need to plug the lines to see if the fan goes full speed? Mine are 3/8” and 5/16” flare fittings but I’m not sure about the flare angle. Can anyone confirm that unplugging the controller on a 2005 dynasty makes there hydraulic fan go full speed? — Granville Barker 2005 Dynasty

Yes, I insert them in on each side of the drive axle, between the big rails. I’ll measure them next time I dig them out and post pics. I cut them 1/2” shorter than I really wanted, I plan to weld a 1/2” plate on each end, but they are super strong as is. It’s thick steel pipe we use to build oil pots for pressure sensors for elevated water tanks.

Do y’all think the engine running hot could have been attributed to the transmission speed sensor issue? I wish there was an easy way to test it without driving up another mountain pass. — Granville Barker 2005 Dynasty Countessa

We decided to take a trip in the old Countessa to Colorado. Driving across northern TX, the silver leaf jumped to the coolant screen when it hit 215, it climbed up to 220 for a few seconds before I could get it moving back down. Finally got it under control and checked the fans speed controller, coolant, etc at the next stop all was good. The next day we moved on to Pueblo and it hit 218 on the biggest climb, I don’t drive these inclines much so I’m still figuring out what gear I should be in. It seemed to stay the coolest when I would get the rpms around 2000 - 2200 on the climbs. Got to a fuel stop and decided to check the trans level got the dreaded ol -95 message, then when we get to the campground, I crank up after registering and the check-trans light is on. After a minute or so it let me shift into get and got me to our site. The diag code said 22 14, issue with Input speed sensor. I crawled under the coach today and tested the resistance on the input speed sensor, it was in range. So I pulled the big transmission connector apart cleaned all the contacts with alcohol, put it back together and the oil level sensor is working again and the input speed sensor error is clear. If your servicing your Allison on a 15 year old coach, I’d recommend cleaning that connector. Safety related, I have some 3” steel pipes I can sick between suspension areas with the air bags inflated to make sure I don’t get crushed under the motorhome. They are also handy for holding the coach up while you change an air bag, that’s what I made them for. I plan to replace the thermostat and coolant next week to hopefully fix the engine temp issues. The side radiator looks pretty clean, but it’s really hard to tell for sure. Any advice on how to clean it, or other things I should check that could cause the engine temp to get so high. We have been to CO before, and never had temp issues. One last issue, the dash oil pressure gauge, sometimes the hand goes max off the scale, but the oil pressure has been fine when checked with Aladdin or the silver leaf. — Granville Barker 2005 Dynasty Countessa

Have you tried blasting some air up the drain tube?

I was just looking at my HWH notes, and noticed there’s a hidden fuse in the D/S armrest, it says look for Plug #43A. I have a 2005 Dynasty, but it’s likely you may have the same fuse.

I had trouble with my HWH power, the unit was getting power but not coming on. HWH wanted allot for a new unit; I took it to an electronics friend that found a bad Power diode On the board, replaced it for .20 cents and back going.