amphi_sc

As you used some proprietary Apple format I can't view your pictures but will assume yours broke as mine did a couple years ago right about in the middle of one side. I just went to the hardware store and bought a 10 foot stick of conduit, removed the rungs, cut the other, slid the conduit inside joining the broken parts together on both sides, drilled holes into the conduit to rebolt the steps. It's a little heavier now but works fine.

BTW, it looks to me like the pressure switch is too low in the air line and could collect moisture. I think I would raise it above the pump outlet and position it so water could not settle into it. i.e. let gravity drain any condensed vapor away from the pressure switch. While you are replacing stuff I'd probably replace that pressure switch while you're redoing the plumbing....could just run a short airline up from the T and zip tie the pressure switch in a higher location. I also can't tell if you have a check valve in the airline. You don't want any between the small air tank and the pressure switch as any leak in the line/fittings would cause that line to drop and short cycle the pump while the tank could very likely have air. You would want the check valve between the pressure switch and the pump. (Somehow my coach had it in the wrong location and when a T developed a slight bubble leak the pump would cycle on for 2 or 3 revolutions every 5 minutes as it quickly rebuilt air pressure in the short air line.) FWIW, JMHO

I know in my case the factory had the check valve in the wrong location for the "auto fill" function. It was possible for the pump to be running when the Aladdin system decided to. open the fill solenoid valve, and with the check valve in the wrong place the pump would suck water out of the tank only to back feed to the fill side and thus return into the tank never building up enough pressure to turn the pump off. Relocating the check valve between the pump output & fill solenoid input fixed that situation.

FWIW: We were traveling with some friends and one grassy site sloped up a fair amount at the front and up toward the door too. When they leveled the back of the coach raised fairly high (but wheels still on the ground) and the passenger front was so low the double step couldn't swing all the way down and out, so we had to dig the grass & dirt down almost 2 inches to allow the steps to come out and lock in place ... just barely clearing the ground. So make sure your new double step can swing down and all the way out whenever you park. BTW, our step is a double "Coach Step" that slides out on glides vs swinging down from a hinge point. So sometimes it'll wedge itself into grassy dirt. Not too often, but very dependant on the slope of the site. And sometimes on sloping sites I have to check to make sure the coach hasn't (or won't) settled down onto the step maintaining auto level mode. At least the controller senses the high current and cuts off the power no matter where it runs into something vs some other physical limit switch design. Also comes in handy when accidentally parking too close to a curb. And if I'm street parking for a few days I make sure the steps aren't over the curb/sidewalk in case the coach "auto" settles a bit.

I'll admit I had a boo-boo 2 years ago hitting a piece of concrete turning right at the same constant angle as the concrete in the blind spot of the passenger door pillar ... enough to not hurt that tire, but bent the edge of that rim just enough to warrant replacement for peace of mind. Drove with that old tire on a new white steel wheel for 1800 miles until I had time to catch up to a new polished aluminum wheel, and then while I was at it (and I could find the tires in stock ... remember this was a couple years ago when supplies were having problems), mount new steers on the new Accuride and other original wheel. I now carry that emergency steel wheel & mounted old tire as a "just in case" spare on a home made 'receiver attached swing down carrier' similar to the Roadmaster design, but clears my bumper and allows straight thru hitching of my toad (I posted pictures of that homemade carrier on another post many months ago). The D-hole wheel pattern is not made by Accuride anymore so they recommended this replacement wheel as the equivalent, but with a round hand hole. (I couldn't find a used Monaco D-hole polished front wheel anyplace.) I put it on the driver's side so I wouldn't have to be reminded of my boo-boo every time I came in the door. I got the concrete just "right" for the wheel, but it missed the steps and coach body so the only casualty was the original factory wheel. I had about a 5 hour delay waiting on roadside assistance to find a wheel that could work, and they inspected the tire & mounted it as it never went flat, and I was on my way again. End of long but "lucky" story...

There's an adapter piece that screws into the 1 1/2" threaded inlet that the normal sized sewer hose slips over and is clamped onto, and that adapter usually also has the little grey water bypass tube.

What is the new part number? I can't read it from your box picture.

The wheel has been superceded with a new number, but the warranty dept says the new design was just slightly enlarged hand holes for lightening.

No, they said to discard the bad wheel. No need to ship it back to them.

Mostly good news. Accuride is shipping a new wheel under warranty. Bad news is getting a tire shop to swap it at my cost. And the wheel won't ship out for 10 days so looking at Thanksgiving week to get somebody to do the work. Would this unmount/mount be covered under my FMCA roadside plan?

FWIW: My Beaver came with a 240V dryer from the Oregon factory. The actual amp load when running is a balanced 7-8 amp load on the two hot legs. (So I can run 3 A/C's and the dryer at the same time - no problem on shore or 10k gen.) It has a separate sub panel at the dryer for the 30 amp 240v DRYER breaker. Power from my transfer switch comes into my first main electric panel (over the driver's seat) via a 50 amp breaker. The main lugs of that panel then take that power via 10/3 w/ground to the rear of the coach and the dryer sub panel. (As an aside, the main panel powers the A/C's, Aqua hot, block heat, ... and 2 individual 30 amp breakers to the Magnum dual in dual out inverter which then feeds back up the another sub panel by the driver's seat for the fridge and all the sockets.) So one option could be tap into the shore power cord coming into the transfer switch as that is likely easier to gain access and run the wires through the basement ceiling. And put a sub panel by the dryer. In effect about the same as my coach EXCEPT it would not be running through the 50amp breaker of my main panel but you would still have the 50amp breaker of the pedestal for load protection of the shore power cable. As in my case, the 240 dryer won't run on a standard 30-50 dog bone nor his 8k Genny. But with careful/creative use of an appropriately sized center tap transformer and electrical knowledge beyond basic flipping on a light switch, I can run my 240V dryer from a standard 30 amp campground pedestal. Remember you can't create electricity from nothing ... understand induced current and how the windings on an iron core work. It's more than just stepping voltage up from 120 to 240. Anyway, while the dryer load is way less than the 30 amp 240 breaker, that is what the circuit was factory sized for. Check the specs on your potential dryer to see actual loads. Pics of the factory sub panel and current load when my dryer is running. Current drops off significantly when the thermostat cuts out the heating element. Just food for thought.

I don't believe that would have been standard practice at Les Schwab. But I wasn't allowed in the shop ( insurance regulations I was told ) when they mounted this tire and the corresponding passenger side steer.

Hello Frank, Yes, I am the original owner of that wheel. 2 years in service, rounding to approximately 30,000 miles on that tire, both tire and wheel were new when installed at that wheel position by Les Schwab in 2021. No flats or under/over inflation or anything of note on that tire since installation in 2021. I use a TPMS. Caught it when washing the coach today. GLAD I saw it before driving any further!! Monday I'll see if I can get anybody's attention at Accuride. Supposedly the "finish" has a 60 month warranty, but don't know about any metal fatigue warranty. Anybody know the best contact at Accuride? Otherwise I'll try the standard 800-869-2275 number.

It's an Accuride (Accu-Shield) ACC/42644XPC. 22.5 x 8.25 for 295/80 22.5 tires. Special ordered 10/20/21

Why is this wheel splitting? If I ran into a pot hole or curb I would think it would bend and have a flat spot from an impact. But why is the bead edge splitting away? Two places: 2 & 4 o'clock Obviously I need to order a new wheel.

Final update as it's been over month since unplugging and replugging all the light bulbs. That seems to have cured the problem of the light circuits turning off by themselves. The lights had resumed to working normally when I made it by Paul's on the way by and he graciously backed up my CPU "just in case" of a future catastrophe. Such gracious and knowledgeable hosts, and a great tour of all he has going on at his place.

5 months ago I picked up a kit from eBay for $25.49 plus tax from a marine store. Looks like the price has gone up substantially now, but I believe this and the similar listings are the same parts: https://www.ebay.com/itm/264225299069 BTW, the motor bearings are typical roller blade bearings. I replaced those 5 years ago. I take mine apart and clean / inspect at least once a year, sometimes twice a year. Simple preventative maintenance.

If the moderators think this post is "beating a dead horse" go ahead and delete it. My experience: I have 3 Heat pump units originally controlled as front 1 zone 5 button, middle and rear controlled from bedroom 5 button as zones 1 & 2 on that original thermostat. Front original Penguin compressor lockup during COVID supply chain crisis. No physical room on the wall for the new 10 button thermostat so ordered new penguin II heat pump and "dumb down" conversion board. Months later supply opened up and the unit shipped. (I then noticed more stock was on hand so ordered 2 more new Penguin IIs for when the others die...). Installed the "dumbed down" board taping up the unused wire rather than cutting it. Worked well A/C, heat, and Aqua hot) with caveat of noisy fan as old style thermostat only knows two of the 3 fan speeds. Months later middle heat pump dies but in the intervening time I picked up a Micro Air thermostat at a FMCA convention. In talking to the reps there I decide to get the model for the NEW Penguin IIs rather than the MA model compatible with the 5 button. The MA is only slightly wider than the 5 button so it could somewhat fit on the wall between the cabinet door and bathroom door where the original front 5 button was. Still have to watch opening the bathroom door as it will contact the thermostat at the extreme open open position. So moved Dumb Down board to new unit installing in the middle & easily restored the new Penguin II board into Front unit as wire was taped and not clipped. That was easier than moving the physical unit. So now middle and rear controlled by old style 5 btn and front new style Penguin II and new style MA thermostat. When the final rear unit dies I'll put the new style board back into the middle unit and use a new style thermostat for those two units. (And be able to sell/donate/trash the dumb down board.) Wall space is not an issue in the bedroom. All easily done with the help of a long extension ladder to slide boxed new unit to the roof using the ladder as an inclined plane & and a couple of neighbors on the roof to follow my positioning instructions as they lowered it into the duct work. Boards are easy to swap but must use the "dumb down" board with a heat pump as the reversing valve comes into play and the default positioning is backwards between the old and new style units. If just an A/C unit with no reversing valve then that is a different story on compatibility. Moderator EDIT. The following from the original text has been enhanced as it states the solution and summarizes the issues.... My understanding from the OP post is he purchased the MA thermostat compatible with the 5 button old style units and not the version compatible with the new Penguin IIs. So I would conclude he needs the "dumb down" board to work with other old style unit and old style MA thermostat. When the other unit dies he'll have to choose between another dumb down board or upgrading (factory re-flash???) the thermostat to take advantage of the three fan speeds of the new style units (and to work with the redesigned reversing valve logic).

Prompted by several threads on Cummins engines ( such as "2005 Sig - ECM Failure - Need Monaco parameters") I'm wondering what I need to ask my CAT service center to backup my ECM "just in case". What software do they need to read the CAT ECM including the "custom features" beyond basic "get the engine running again" and do I need/want an electronic results file or paper copy? My 2007 Beaver shares a lot with the similar Monacos.

In my homemade carrier case I flat tow so no hitch weight other than the tire weight itself. In the rare time I hook on a flatbed trailer I remove the carrier & extender and carry the tire strapped on the trailer. I do use the hitch tighters to minimize receiver play.

I'm happy with the 100-03S in my coach. Good heat retention with the volume of antifreeze it holds - rarely turn on the diesel side. It has a single electric heating element. I prefer the 03S over a 400 or 450. When on the road overnighting without hookups I still have a good shower in the morning without turning on the diesel burner (unless of course IF I use it for overnight bedroom heat then the burner is turned on when no electricity). Been in Low teens and diesel plus elec kept us comfortable.

From 411 we cut over 136 by Talking Rock and continued onward to visit Paul overnight...and then onward toward Ocala Florida to visit my sister and other friends. We'll put close to 20k on the coach this year wandering around North America...be over in Calif for Christmas and then Rio Grande valley for some of the winter. (My tires never age out before they wear out.)

And that's why I carry a mounted spare, 6 foot breaker bar/torque wrench, and 20 ton jack. Traveling through the Yukon is worse than Alaska ... 200+ miles to the next cell tower and even with a satellite phone / Skylink WiFi call can be a very long wait for a service truck who still may not have a tire in stock. Just this past year I had to run on a spare over 600 miles to get to a place to buy a tire. I got lucky in that they had the size and brand on hand, and the date code year was within the last 2 years. YMMV

We just came down from Sevierville via 441 west to 411 thru Marysville, Benton etc. Stayed off I-40 and I-75 until south of Atlanta. Pleasant drive missing Knoxville and Chattanooga traffic enjoying the countryside. 45' with toad.

Got back about a month ago from our third trip to Alaska. I prefer Whitehorse to Dawson City - ferry across the Yukon River to Chicken then Tok, that way I only experience that awful Destruction Bay to Tok section only once on the way south. But some people are afraid of the Top of the World highway. I think that gravel road is in better shape than the Alcan between Destruction Bay & Tok, however Chicken to Tok has some pretty good frost heaves & cracks outside of Chicken. At Whitehorse visit the Lumel studio and blow some glass ornaments. Side trip to Skagway or hit Haines & Skagway from the other side. At Homer I've used Inlet Charters for both Halibut fishing and bear viewing flights. Several options on bear viewing... seaplane or wheeled, the Falls or beach... etc Boat cruise: Columbia or Meares ... I prefer Meares where you can watch it calve into the water. While going down the Kenai peninsula take a side trip through the Whittier tunnel. Several options and places to catch a helicopter ride to a glacier...and a sled dog ride on the ice. Side trip to Stewart/ Hyder and my favorite glacier ... the Salmon glacier While at Denali book a Canyon Run rafting trip with Denali Raft Adventures Your time will just fly by. PS, hang a sign at Watson Lake sign post forest.