rpasetto

@KevinH, There's a VIP Diagnostics document recently added to in the files section. I've been using it on mine. On another forum someone mentioned his problems started with wipers going on when wheel is turned... (sort of what I was seeing a few days ago).. but then this post went on to say eventually everything controlled by the VIP wheel stopped working, which is where mine is now. Questions: Could that be the clock spring or SM210 master controller? Could a flaw in clockspring cause the SM210 to fail?

@Paul, I agree, the controller is reasonably priced; and changing it relatively simple task compared to a lot of others with these coaches.. I was mainly interested in jury rigging the horn so I'd have that working until I get home.

Every time I check fluid level it is after a relatively long drive with fluid warmed to operating temperature. If trans is not sufficiently warm there's a code number displayed instead ot the "OL xx xx" mesage.

Checked fluid with the "arrow" method and it showed "LO 5". Opened up the access cover and pulled dipstick, engine not running, and fluid was right on the mark. I'm assuming the electronic 5qt low is more accurate so I added 2 1/2 qt fluid, not wanting to overfill. I've heard that when trans is low, you should add less, then check again I added 2 1/2qt, half the amount, with plan to check again\\. Reading using arrows is now: LO 3 qt. Is this method correct? eg should I "sneak up" on the full level?

Jumpered in horn; ran a wire up thru driver window to a momentary switch. Used it once in 350 mile drive. new VIP SM210 on order. If that doesn't fix it I'll have to dig into wiring.

Now nothing is working from the smart wheel. Ran through first set of tests in the VIP trouble shooting guide up to the part where it says to check for power at J6 (the 12v wiper power) on the box which is supposed to show 12v. But J6 on my coach is connected to Ign feed. Next steps talk about taking steering wheel apart so that will have to wait until coach gets back anyway. Thinking of jumpering the wiper motors to headlight switch so they work if it rains. I don't plan to drive in dark anyway. I could also jury rig IGN power to horn relay via a switch ... raining right now so that will need to wait.

I think it was a couple of wires loose when I bypassed the current limiter. So far works OK.

A few months ago I had a problem with my Girard Patio Awning (G2000?) stopping before it was fully retracted. I called Girard support and the told me to bypass the current limiter box and then re-adjust the "out" and "in" limits with the hex tool. Did that and all was OK... for months. Yesterday, awning goes out not in... tried it a few times... waited then tried again. It had been out for a few hours so I don't think it's an overheat issue from bringing it out then in multiple times.... Anyway I brought awning in manually. I'm now on the road, not ready to do any tests but wonder if anyone has had this issue after bypassing current limiter. Has anyone had this issue?

Thanks again, Kevin. When I went to clean contacts on control box there were burn marks on pin 2 of J12, which I believe is the headlamp power feed. I don't know if that's related or just another problem. second picture of connector on box blurred,

@Kevin, Thanks for the clear picture . I can't tell, where is that adjustment? on the last picture? Update. We thought the problem had to do with the wheel turning but it seems to happen going straight even when concentrating on holding the wheel position straight. Sometimes we go thru lots of curves with no occurrences. The only consistent thing so far is either the wiper on in regular mode or the one time wipe that activates.

Noticed this yesterday, but it may have been going on for a while. Occasionally when turning the wheel the wiper would go on. Sometimes it's the regular wiper, sometimes just one pulse from the intermittent one. For a long time I was thinking this was just clumsy me hitting the button. During the last long drive I made a conscious effort to avoid the button and I saw this happen a few times. Also, for quite a while the washer will give a short pulse with not much water and then none at all until I turn it off and back on. I had thought that was a clog or maybe washer pump going bad. Is this an indicaton of problem in the key pad, the smartwheel controller or something else... or a coincidence? Tryung to figure out what to do next. Meanwhile I will read the VIP diagnosis document I just saw here.

Bill, I never would have guessed that the low pressure device was the culprit. It was dropping about 80-90 psi overnight, same as what Dandick66 reported.

Update. I tested the pressure control for the door air seal off the coach with my air compressor. The leak is easy to hear in the quiet of a garage.... hard to see bubbles. This pressure control is like the tag axle control except it's rated at 4psi... very low pressure so maybe that's why it was easier to hear then to see bubbles. Hotrod told me about a solution; indentation in the rubber stop where the plastic pin from the diaphragm shuts off the air flow. Not a good picture below but the worn part shows where the pin is not seating. Bill told me to sand down the rubber until flat. Put it back together and I could not hear leak, thanks to Bill. I don't know how long the sanded-down rubber seal will last. Hopefully long enough to go on to the next fix-er-up project.

Put a shut off valve on the feed to the MAC valve for the step cover solenoid. Now another leak ... the control for the door air-seal. Sprayeing multiple times with dawn solution never produced bubbles but my wife heard the leak. We couldn't pin the sound down to whether its the Norgren pressure control or the valve (?) to the left in the picture below. The Norgren control seems to be part# ??07-100-RN. The valve has the label KIP Inc Valve No 1x1181. Doing some searching after I test to see what's actually leaking in the assembly. If anyone knows that part#, let me know. V\

Each time I find a leak and fix it there' little change. Last week I found the pneumatic cylinder for the step cover leaking. I shut it off but the air loss still remains. Overnight the air pressure goes down to the 40s. I've been spraying with dawn solution everywhere I can. That's how I found the leaks fixed so far. Trying a mechanics stethoscope to see if I can hear; don't know if that will even work if there is a line leaking.

If it's the links on the rear ride height valves, would they deform slightly to affect the ride height setting and then stay that way or would they just break completely once they weaken? Back to air-related issues, is a sticking front travel valve on one side also a possibility? e.g. if one travel valve in front opens more than the other would that send more air to its side? As far as the front ride height valve goes, if one side has bags 1" high and the other side 1" low it seems it would average out to satisfy the ride height valve.

Interesting. Could it be our ride height valves get "sticky"? Maybe after years of driving some corrosion sets in. Would giving them a shot of WD or PB blaster help?

Aha! I didn't think of loose links in the ride height valves; will check that.

I tried the suggestion of a garden sprayer from @miacasa_2000. Used the same Dawn solution but now with a pumped-up garden sprayer my spray range was about 8' or more. That enabled hitting every fitting and line visible from either side. No bubbles. Wondering if the Kids Bubbles would do any better than a Dawn solution. I know I have a leak in the step-cover pneumatic cylinder, but I turned the screws all the way down on the MAC valve. I think somewhere else is still leaking. The airbags stay firm with the HWH system shut off so I think that eliminates anything on the bag side of the HWH 6-packs. Has anyone tried an electronic leak detector?

I heard, somewhere, that one test for the system: Start out level, then lower one side in manual mode, then start engine and see if it raises that side and goes into travel mode. I tried it; did both sides a few times and it takes about 1 1/2 to 2 minutes for the low side to come up. However either way the low side doesn't come up all the way it remains slightly tilted by an inch or more to the side which was low. Is this normal? ... or is there a problem somewhere?

Thanks, Ivan, I didn't think of looking there.

Mine is an '05 too. Spent a lot of time still looking for the small leak. Airbags are staying filled, never go soft. Lines feeding the ping tank should be coming from the HWH manifold according to diagram from a few days back. So it looks like the ping tank and hoses on the airbag side of the HWH block are OK. @Bill Groves explained to me how to force the two check valves closed by rapidly dumping the wet tank. So testing with tanks separated, it appears there's a leak in something connected to the front tank. Fittings at tank show no bubbles so I'm looking at six or eight possibilities like the air chuck, step slide, etc. I'm still having trouble finding the Vac. Generator. It's going to be tough finding it if there's a hole in the middle of an airline. Search continues.

Add me to the "slow-leak" list too. Recently replaced the two big ping-tank-to-airbag hoses on passenger side front. That helped; now the leak down is slower. My wife says she can hear a faint leak. Did some dawn spraying yesterday; more spraying is scheduled as soon as weather permits later today. I suspect leak is in line which feeds ping tanks; it's hard to see all of it. [Diagram from Monaco air-line book is confusing. I'd expect to see lines from Ride Height valve to HWH-manifold but it doesn't show it that way. HWH book shows lines from RH valve to one set of manifold ports, then on to airbags, but Monaco diagram seems to show wrong ports going out.]

QUestion, I heard all the solenoids are the same (RAP1940?). But are all three manifolds the same, front, drive and tag?

When we travel from MA to TX we usually take I-84 into PA, thru Scranton, then south on the I-81 into TN, and vice-versa. We've found that generally less traffic and fewer slowdowns translate into a less harrowing trip and possibly better fuel economy despite it being a few dozen miles longer. I agree with Roy about northern NJ; also western CT, RI and eastern MA are somewhat "big-rig-unfriendly", so watch the overheads, especially overhanging tree limbs. We lived in northern NJ a long time, including our early motor-homing years before we were able to escape the congestion. We avoid the NJ Turnpike, Garden State Parkway and the interstates (I-287, I-95 and I-80) in the more congested areas. Not to knock the northeast area completely; there are some beautiful, scenic places. Unfortunately many are "on the other side" of congested areas. Send me your tentative route when you have it ready.