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Since 2018 the US has hit the top of the import/export curve. It's been a long time since we were importing 50% of our production; it's maybe a decade. Source: (US Energy Information Administration https://www.eia.gov/) Unfortunately those wind turbines and solar panels need to have materials mined, refined, metal alloys smelted, forged and machined to manufacture those solar and wind systems. All that manufacturing uses energy too, as does the manufacture of the silicon for solar panels and the electrolysis of bauxite for all that aluminum needed to make solar panels, batteries and the like. There's the explanation for why wind and solar represent such a small share of the energy production today. If a solar-electric powered motorhome comes out I'll be rushing to see and test drive it for sure; however it is just out of the range of practicality for the forseeable future. Maybe our great-great grandkids will enjoy power from more efficient systems, but up to now motor vehicles rely substantially on oil... except for those all electric vehicles which get their energy predominantly from Natural gas, Coal and Nuclear sources.

This is typical here in TX. Prices for Diesel usually runs less than Premium, sometimes as low as Regular gas. Diesel ranges between $70's to $2.10s depending on location. This picture taken in Spring Branch TX, between San Antonio and Austin. I think prices are low because we are importing less oil, producing more domestically. Electric vehicles are still dependent on Natural Gas, Coal and Nuclear today. We have a long way to go before the manufacturers of Teslas and other electric vehicles can claim they are running on electricity produced using renewable sources. (source of the above: US EIA, https://www.eia.gov/outlooks/steo/report/electricity.php)

I was wrong about the Aladdin. I couldn't find it in my Wiring Diagram book either, probably the same diagrams as yours for the most part. I made a bad assumption that Aladdin gets voltages from the ECM, like VMSpc which plugs directly into the diagnostic connector to get ECM data. I did find a passage in the Aladdin Troubleshooting book which says: "DCI (DC Interface) - Module measures voltage and current of the house batteries and solar panels. Location: On the module board in the cargo bay area." So it seems the Aladdin DC interface is picking up voltage readings from wiring somewhere. but I made enough bad guesses. (By the way If you don't have that Aladdin Diag book I'll email it to you). So if I understand correctly, at road speed, the alternator should be producing its max voltage output, internally regulated, I think, to around 14.0 to 14.2v. I am think that the voltage drop which occurs going down the road may be related to load on the alternator so my next step is to clean those terminals pictured in the earlier post.

@Tom Cherry: Thanks for the testing suggestions. I found "spare cable" in my WD book which I need to check out. The diagram shows a few wires already going from under dash to the rear of the coach ao I need to find two that are working to hook up a VOM to watch while I drive. @ Rick N: Thanks for your reminder about Monaco bad grounds and suggestion about taking pictures of the generator. I think the next step will be to unbolt the two big cables, + and -, and clean them. But there are 2 small wires also which I am not clear about. Could it be one is an "excite wire? Just a guess; the other for voltage output to the ECM? I have no clue here and the Monaco WD book didn't help in this case since the print from the WD book (below) shows only the + and - connections. I'll appreciate it if anyone has a more detailed diagram for this. Based on the other diagrams in the WD book I think I need to disconnect batteries, not just flip the switches.

First concern is the significant voltage differences between idle and driving down the road. Based on the VMSpc/Aladdin values, the difference is as much as 13.8v to 13.0v. Second concern is the ~0.4v difference between voltage readings at the engine battery and what the Aladdin & VMSpc show; both get their data from the ECM. The latter is probably a ground issue; the former appears to be the difference between idle and Engine running under load. Your 05 Exec probably has the same Leece Neville 270amp alternator as mine. Do you get such a difference between engine idle and engine load?

It is puzzling, because on my last trip these were not the numbers I was getting on VMSpc and Alladin. Voltage showing ranged in the low 13's, sometimes down at 13.0 to 13.2. It has occurred to me that I use a charge line connected to my Jeep when I'm towing, but I've always had that. A short run without toad in the next week or so is in the plan.

I made multiple tests today. First with the chassis batteries only and House battery bank disconnected, at fast idle 1200RPM; let it idle for a few minutes. I get 14.1v at the chassis battery terminals but 13.8v readings at VMSpc and Alladin. Next I connected the house battery bank, fast idle at 1200RPM waiting a few minutes. Turned on headlights and the inverter with refrigerator on. Engine battery voltage readings 14.0 - 14.1v House batts: 13.7-13.8. VMSpc and Alladin readings: 13.4 to 13.6 Next Headlights off, dropped idle to 1000RPM. Engine Batts: 14.0 - 14.05, House Batts: 13.80 to 13.84. VMSpc and Alladin reading 13.5 to 13.6. Seems that the alternator and battery readings are marginal and are affected by RPM and load but not much. The coach is new to us and I do not have records of the last time batteries were purchased. Engine batteries are X2-Power SLI31AGMDPM, Group 31M, rated 1150 CCA. The eight House batteries are Duracell Ultra SLI GC 115's. Both appear to be lines sold by Batteries plus. The old invoice which I did find in the coach records is from 2011 for Interstate batteries, so if those were kept around 5 years this set would be 4 years old. About three months ago, I removed all cables from batteries, cleaned and reconnected; also cleaned ground and starter connection. Maybe I missed something. I am guessing that the easiest thing to do is to take out the two chassis batteries and have them tested... Next easiest is probably is to take the alternator to be tested... Checked the belt tensioner; it will need a 3/4" breaker bar.

Thanks for the advice. After pouring thru wiring diagrams I learned that the alternator directly connects to the chassis batteries; the Big Boy doesn't get in the way. (This was unlike my previous 03 Dynasty which had a diode-type isolator between alternator and battery banks.) My 05 Sig Wiring book shows only two connections, one direct to chassis batteries and the other ground. Looks like my next step is some testing voltages, although I am becoming increasingly suspicious of the alternator. Toughest thing in removing that will be to move the belt tensioner which looks like it's made to be moved using a 3/4" drive breaker bar which I don't have.

I've been noticing that the voltage, as displayed on the dash gauge, the Alladin, and my VMSpc, seems to be getting lower. A few months back it was in the 13.6 to 13.8 range, but in my last trip it seems to be showing lower, down in the low 13's. As I was driving I noticed once in a while down at 13.0 to 13.2. Does this indicate problems with the BigBoy? ... or Alternator? ... or something else? Where do I start diagnosing?

I read the table wrong. 6020# it is.

I had M144's on the drive axle of my Dynasty; they were great. The "agricultural aroma" went away in a few months. From the Toyo 2019 book, the M144's rating max is 7830# at 125psi; However I think your wheels may have a 120psi max. Load infl. table from their book is below; you would need to run them as higher than 90psi to carry that 11,990#.

Yes, the 295/80 Conti is rated at 7830# at 120psi. That's the same as the Mich XZA2 Energy 295/80. But the Mich X Coach HLZ is rated higher, 8270# at 120 psi. (source this time is from Mich 2019 book). I guess I'll be checking into Conti's when "tire-time" comes around.

In the 2020 Conti book, For the HSR2SA in 315/80R22.5, although approved for 8.25" wheels it is de-rated to 7610# at 120psi max. That's still more than the 295/80 size of the same tire model at 6945psi. The same derating is on for the 315 size HSA3 and HDR2 Eco Plus on 8.25 wheels. Since Michelin now disallows 315's on 8.25 wheels, could it be the design of the Conti tires is different from the Michelins?

Good point about the 12R's vs 11R's regarding dual spacing. I checked the Continental load inflation charts and didn't see anything like the "Not approved for use with 8.25 wheel." about the 315's, like Michelin is now doing. I did notice a statement "Always use approved tire and rim combinations" but did not find their list of those approved combinations.

Glad to hear about your experience with the Continentals. I've never used the brand on a coach but have also been looking at them for eventual use. Looked recently at the 2020 Micheliin's Truck tire book. Looks like they've now footnoted: "Not approved for us e with 8.25 wheel." on the 315's. Wonder if they've been having warranty problems with them or just avoiding the "de-rating" issue. I'll definitely look into Conti's when the time comes. Keep us apprised of your experiences with them.

Back to the OP. Re: Solar. I recall having problems with the solar controller years back on my 03 Dynasty. I was able to send it back to the manufacturer for repair. I think the manufacturer was Heliotrope. Hope this helps.

Adding to the topic of tires, there's a Continental model HSR2SA, available in 295/80R22.5. Their book shows max load 7830# @120psi. The Michelin XZA2 Energy in that size is also rated 7830# @120psi. Toyo publishes an RV inflation table chart which shows 7575# @120psi. Haven't used Continentals, but if the load carrying at lower psi is proportional it appears that Conti also has the same advantage over Toyos.

Right now in the middle of my own "to-do" list on a new-to-us 05 Sig. Here are comment and suggestions. 1. Tires. I did the move steer-to-tag a few times with our older 03 Dynasty, based on roughly swapping steer to tag every 5 years, replacing drive tires every seven. @Ivylog made a good point about using 11R's instead of the 295's in the rear. I haven't done that yet since my 05 came with 2-year old Michelins. Some have mentioned Toyos. I did use M144's on my Dynasty drive axle & they were great. I won't comment about other brands. 3. Steering. There's also a Watts-Link setup which was designed to alleviate some of the disadvantages of Monaco's Panhard-Bar design on Roadmaster chassis. It is particularly popular the non-tag models. Many here on the forum know much more about it than I do so I'll defer to them. 5. Fridge. My current 05 Sig is factory equipped with a Residential. My 03 Dyn was not and I installed a Samsung RF197; should have done that sooner for many reasons. Liked the Samsung French Door model a lot better than this whirlpool side by side, but as long as it keeps up working there's a whole bunch of other stuff on the project list. 11. Engine Monitoring. I agree with Chet on VMSpc. I've used it since my 2000 Diplomat. 14. Surge Protector. I put a whole-house surge protector on my 03 Dynasty, same as the one in my house. Surge Protector is also on my project list for the 05 Sig. Also, Check coolant hoses, belts. Change them if there's any question in your mind about them. Check air system for leaks if you have not done that yet. If you're losing air quickly that could be many things besides the air bags. Remove side radiator Grille and wash using a Simple-Green-Pro solution with a little Dawn added. There are probably many posts here on doing it. Check Battery cable ends for corrosion. clean as appropriate. If you have an Alladin and the tank levels are wacky you may need to replace sensors, especially black tank. Finally, if you have not yet had an oil analysis of Engine and Trans, have it done and consider regularly having this done.

Thank you, Jim. I know I need to get a steering wheel puller. This looks like a delicate operation... advice appreciated.

Looks like the problem is not the control unit. Swapped control units and nothing changed. went thru the VIP test at the yellow & brown wires at top connector of clock spring VIP guide says I should get 7-10 volts, i get just a few mv. Next question: How do I replace clock spring? Update: Repeated the tests in the VIP diagnostic guide and got same result, so I removed the column shroud and disconnected the bottom end. Three of the four wires have continuity; the yellow wire is open; That's the one I think carries the MUX signal. Clock spring, #1900043 is on order. Advice on taking column apart will be appreciated. Hopefully others here have done this.

+1 on Coach Net

Had a leak which began as seepage just barely noticeable. Glad we got home before it went wild. There was a broken hose on the air tube feeding the compressor. It must have let the metal part of the tube bounce or rub on the fuel line below it. Replaced the hose... apparently the bouncing made a pinhole leak in the line below it so it was spraying fuel. Now my question is: With all the suel-spray and air from the engine compartment which went into the compressor, is there anything that should be checked for in the compressor to be sure it is still OK?

We've been doing the same; did it on our last coach and continue to do so with the "new". Suggestion to OP: Set up a separate bank account to be used only for repairs and not maintenance. If your bank website has the feature, schedule automatic transfer into that account. How much depends on what costs you expect to have and what you can spare. Or roll the dice. If you want to cover tire cost, or other "normal" replacements, add a monthly amount based on the cost you expect for the items and the time until you expect replacement. Take inflation into account.

Mine didn't produce a lot of oily residue until the last 500 miles. I discovered oil residue on the Passenger-side drive axle outer wheel. Checking he pumpkin tomorrow. That may be the culprit.

Made it home, another 1100 miles. Trans fluid still at the "LO 3" level it was when I added fluid back on Thursday. Toad and back of coach covered with oily residue; engine coated with oil, especially on the passenger side. Cleaned with simple-green and Dawn solution, twice, then rinsed and ran engine in place after most of the water dripping stopped. Sheets of cardboard underneath don't show anything... yet. I'll wait overnight and plan to run engine more tomorrow. @George, thanks for the tip. Hydraulic fluid is right at the full mark, same as when I started trip 2200 miles ago. Plan is to remove that crazy engine cover in the bedroom to add more trans fluid. (Cover is a floor section, held in with a dozen or so screws. It was a pain to get hold of to lift. But I guess that would be more appropriate in another thread. I'm used to the ones with two deck latches-flip and lift.) Thanks to all for your advice. Another thing: the car and back of coach don't have the "smell" of trans fluid, more like engine oil smell, and the color of the residue on the back of the coach when wiped off is black, no sign of red in it. Car got most of the residue in the last half of the trip when the trans level stayed roughly the same. I cannot estimate how much oil is in the residue I found; if a pint could be enough to make the thin coat I might not have noticed that change in the engine oil, for example.