rpasetto

@Mocephus, Well done. Curiously, I was working on something else in my FRB and noticed that pin2 on J12 is starting to show burn signs. Another project added to my list.

I recently got the Borg dually valve kit to get rid of those braided extensions on the drive axle. One was leaking a bit when I had a tire service do the changeover. The young man who did the job was very careful and skillful installing the inner valve and the rubber stabilizers. Glad to hear the install of replacement tires went well for you. I was always concerned that some tire shops might be unfamiliar with these stems.

I have a feeling that the relays in the SmartWheel controller are either inadequate or fail with age. The headlight relay in particular with the heaviest draw; connectors and wiring should be sized to handle the load, but wondering if they are. The crimps on the mate&lock connectors could be the problem too. Moe, can you measure the current draw on that new 10ga line? I'd like to compare it to what the same headlights draw via the normal Smartwheel setup. If resistance is nominal we should see nearly the same thru both... if not there may be significant resistance somewhere.

I recall doing this years back. I just cut off the wires mentioned below. (However, if you remove them from the connector you could always reinstall them if you decide to go back to 'factory'. There is a tool used to install & remove pins from these connectors.) Remove wires p1 and p2 from connector J12 and also remove wire p6 from J11 (Wire from headlight switch). Connect the p6 wire from headlight switch to the coil of an 87 type relay (see diagram); pins 86 and 85 connect to the coil so you could connect headlight switch wire, P6 to 86 and 85 to ground. Pin 30 of the relay should get the 12v power via the headlamp fuse in your front electrical box, that's p1 if I recall, and p2 would connect to 87 to power headlights. I strongly recommend fusing both circuits: the coil (85-86) and power (30-87) just in case there's a short somewhere. Hope this helps.

Puzzled by your statement, I looked at my owners manual thinking 'is there a way to turn on the headlights from the smart wheel?' there's no "Headlight On" button there. ... sure enough I learned that any wiper function turns on the headlights until IGN is turned off or the headlight switch is operated to ON then OFF position. (Still learning after almost 2 decades driving these; reminds me of how little I know about this coach.) @StephenW, hoping this is not hijacking your thread.

I do not know if you have the same type smartwheel controller as shown in the diagram below (Check your wiring diagram book). If it is, as a temporary fix you could unplug connectors and use the signal from pin 6 of J11 to control a 87 type relay wired to connect power between the Headlamp Source and Power (pins 1, 2 of J12). Similarly J11-p12 could be used control marker lamps (tail) via J12-p3,4 and a second relay. I recall being in a similar predicament many years back and made a temporary fix like that. You'd still be without other functions of the smartwheel controller box which are controlled by the MPX signal to the box. There's possible workarounds for those too, but I didn't explore that.

The idea of electronically controlled engine valving seems to be a logical step after other improvements to internal combustion engines like ECM controlled ignition and fuel injection over the old distributor-e or the ECM controlled fuel injection in our newer diesels which had previously been cam-driven. I hope I'm still driving when such engines become available to the general population. However, before one compares 'carbon footprint' of todays fossil fuel engines with electric motors, recall that about 2/3 of the electricity generated today is based on natural gas, coal and other fossil fuel products. Who knows what the future will bring... maybe nuclear power scaled down to motorhome size... https://www.publicpower.org/system/files/documents/Americas-Electricity-Generation-Capacity_2021-update.pdf

The front and rear Faria gauges are available on eBay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/FARIA-GE0055A-RV-MOTORHOME-FRONT-AIR-PRESSURE-GAUGE-WHITE-FACE/312773539212 https://www.ebay.com/itm/FARIA-GE00056A-AIR-PRESSURE-GAUGE-WHITE-FACE-CHROME-BEZEL-MARINE-BOAT/233346308381 Like Paul, I have a flaky fuel gauge on the multifunction Tach-Fuel-Voltage gauge. I just looked at the diagram in the Owners Manual and the positioning is flipped from the way it is on my dash ... but everything else looks correct. Could it also be that the connectors are plugged in the wrong way?

I heard about the 'Ugly Fix', if that's what you're referring to. I've heard about it with the DD60 and some with the ISX. It is in the compoany's product list but I never before heard a motorhomer with it installed on the ISM. I've looked on mine and cannot even locate the atmospheric sensor which it's supposed to replace. By 'chipped' do you mean the Ugly fix for the ISM or something else?

Connectors are the same on both sides of the old pump as shown in the earlier picture. I know the threads for input and output ports are 7/8"-14 UNF as per the Racor spec on the 790R30. However the hoses are different than any shown in this thread or in the earlier thread to which I provided a reference. If I have to cut off the old fittings, which I would need to do if the quick connects don't release properly, what fittings fit those hoses? I prefer to have parts on hand or readily available before I start a project. ----------------------------------------- Update --------------------------------------------------------- My 790R30 arrived and I had no trouble getting fittings to fit the ports of the filter (ORB # 10, 7/8x14 UNF) and the shutoff valves down to a 1/2" JIC male fitting. But there should be a connector to that 1/2"ID yellow plastic (nylon?) hose. How's best method to connect to that darn yellow hose? (see below) The hose inside measures 1/2" but it's tough to push on either regular 1/2 barb or 'push-fit' barb into that opening by hand. For now, I easily inserted the next lower size, 3/8", and they are leak tight using clamps. Engine starts and runs fine, but I am concerned that the 3/8" barb will be a restriction in the 1/2"ID fuel hose at heavy engine load. I don't want to risk fuel starvation. So far I haven't found where I could get a tool to insert 1/2" barbs into this hose. Recommendations? Also haven't found a truck place where I could get a "field attachable' fitting. I see many field attachable (reusable) fittings online, looking like the one below, but they all seem to be for a specific hose type. Tomorrow, another try, another trip to a few hydraulic hose places. If anyone has found the right connection method for this 1/2"ID, 5/8"OD yellow plastic hose let me know.

I already ordered the 790R30 unit, which is the filter head with integral pump. My question is: what fittings do I need? I already know the threads for input and output ports are 7/8"-14 UNF as per the Racor spec on the 790R30. My question is about the hose side; these hoses appear to have been molded onto the old fittings. Like I said I have never seen this type of fuel hose. Can you tell me what type of fitting to use on it?

The problem is my fittings are sort of molded on to the yellow plastic hose. If I break them I would need to get the re-usable (JIC?) type and cut off the old ones. There's a black plastic connector with the red clip... I am guessing that somehow the clip pulls away to enable the fitting to come apart allowing me to unscrew the hex part of the fitting. I have never before seen such a setup.... hoping someone here knows.

After dealing with an intermittent pump for too long it looks like the best path is to replace the old, obsolete 12962/48027 system. Fiddling with the control switch and wiring to get the pump to run has been a recurring problem. Replacing the element is also more of a hassle because of the connections for 'Drain water" feature which was never used anyway. I probably should have replaced that old unit sooner, but 'stuff happens'. If you decide to go ahead and replace yours, we both may be doing this project at about the same time. My concern is with the the fuel hose and quick connect fittings on mine. They are somehow molded into a plastic hose... most others seem to have a black rubber hose with what appear to be factory crimped fittings. Do you have the rubber hose connections like Charles' picture?... or the plastic? I am hoping someone else here has experience with the same type of fuel hose and connections as mine. I am also seeking advice on this.

Does yours look like this one? With this switch? The pump on mine is intermittent. I do not recall the old replacement but the new Racor recommended unit is the 790R30. A number of monacoers here have recommended I make the change and it has been on my "to-do" project list for a while. See this thread for more info: I am hoping to be able to re-use the quick-connect fuel fittings shown in picture above... if I can take them off without breaking them. 🙂 Paul Whittle did the upgrade and installed shut off valves which are a good idea. I will also do that after I figure out what fittings needed with the hoses on mine, which seem to be different.

Check the Monaco Parts list as well as looking for matches to the DOT number on the lens. Once you have that info check selling sites, local dealers or sellers on the internet may have what you want.

Could not have said it better!

If your two ACs are controlled by separate thermostats, swapping them would tell you whether it's a thermostat problem. If they're on the same thermostat one of the AC's would have a remote temp sensor which might have gone bad. Try Steven P's test first if the AC which is affected is on that sensor. Sensors run about 20 - 30 bucks, IIRC, so a temporary plug in of a new sensor in a different location may be a good test. Snaking the wirint would be tricky if you had to replace the sensor though.

Welcome, Tony! There are many very knowledgeable members here. Your M11 engine, and the ISM, have a great reputation. Safe Travels. Welcome Jonbrooks. That's an amazing job you did on your Aquahot heating coil!

Ya mean we gotta use corecct sppelling, and graamer? 🙂 Just to lighten the mood. Seriously though, you do raise an excellent point here, Scott.

It looks like your experience is very similar to mine. So the question is, are temps over 150F expected when climbing hills? My boost yesterday was about 31psi when I saw Manifold Temp going 150F+. Either we both have the same problem or it's not a problem at all, I'm puzzled. Questions to the group: 1. What's the expected temp rise on an ISM on a hill climb with 30+psi boost? 2. If 150F+ is not normal could it be a bad intake manifold temp sensor?

We took a short outing, the first after a few months. I noticed my ISM500 Intake Manifold temperature, rising to 140F, sometimes 150F on hills. The reading came off my VMSpc. Meanwhile the engine and trans temp ran the normal 180s to 190s. When I got back I did a cleaning of the CAC, Radiator area using a Dawn solution/Simple Green mix. Was expecting to see a lot of dirt come off but the drippings were clean. We're still in our first year with this coach; I do not recall this happening last summer. Nor do I recall such temps with our old Dynasty ISL. Recommendations will be appreciated. Update: Checked VMSpc for recent diagnostic events; none shown.

When I got my '05 Sig, decided to replace the 4 rad hoses. I don't know how close my ISM to rad connections are the same as yours but here's the Gates webpage which I went thru after taking measurements: https://www.gates.com/us/en/fluid-power/engine-hose/coolant-hose.html The result was a list of the 4 hoses. I was able to get these at Oreilly: The bad news is one of those 4 did not fit; the measurement error was mine. Now I had the old hoses off so I went to Oreilly and two NAPA stores with the old hose to find a match. I think the one I had wrong was the lower hose toward the front of the radiator. I think I have a corrected list somewhere; will post it if I find it. Hope this helps.

It could be that the outlet was wired incorrectly or the wire at/from the switch is incorrect, if you do have a switch that is. Reversal of the hot& neutral wires at the switch would have the same effect as reversing them at the outlet.

Dennis, I agree with you 100% on following traffic laws like speed limits, weight limitations etc. I was not referring to taking big vehicles on switchback roads clearly marked, but rather on CA roads where commonly commercial 45' buses and other vehicles drove, but 40+ MH's were technically restricted. I've heard of RVers getting summonses back in the day but it was on rare occasions. However if you re-read my original post on Tuesday 12:45 I referred to 2000's restrictions on 40'+ MH's and other private vehicles, while not restricting the commercial ones. (CA did this while collecting the sales taxes on these private vehicles, sold in some cases from dealer lots right on these roads.) In that post, I didn't bring up traffic laws such as weight limits on bridges or speed limits however may have later reacted to what others had said. Not trying to start an argument or lead the thread off topic but evidently I did. My original intent was to point out how CA was restricting use of 40+' MH's on certain roads, while collecting sales taxes from many buyers both in and out of state, while allowing 45' commercial buses on same roads. I don't know if they do the same as they did 20 years ago.

I'm not talking about the roads with hairpin turns, but CA highways, other than interstates, which were not approved at the time by CA for recreational vehicles >40 ft; recalling that there were many 42-45' MHs & buses on those same roads. That experience takes me back to the early 2000s. That was a time when Beaudry, Evert and other dealers were selling those 45'ers and CA was happily collecting tax and fees on the sales. I also recall a lot of activity on forums about it back then but don't know if there's anything online left. I didn't keep record of communications but do recall writing to various persons in CA govt. and getting non-answer boilerplate letters and emails back. It was enough to convince me not to get a bigger coach. I never questioned speed limits or weight limits, not sure why that is brought up in this context.