rpasetto

Yes, but the brochure also describes it as "Semi-monocoque design, with its bridge-like superstructure..." the same description is in the Dynasty and Signature brochures. The only difference is they also mention the RM10H for the larger Dynastys and Sigs. The picture looks the same on all three excepting that the Dyn and Sig show the tag axle chassis. Apparently they didn't use the "S" designation yet back in 2002. A sure way of telling is to use a strong magnet up top to find the steel superstructure.

But how is that backup copy made? I've heard that software from the Intellitec company is necessary to do it (PMC if I recall the acronym). This is not something I've seen for sale on eBay or anywhere else, only the modules.

@ Roger S. I think Thomas was referring to the Monacoers, i.e. the topic this thread. Perhaps your post about Ramblin Pushers should be a separate thread.

Other than using Dicor caulk or Permabond type tape, has anyone tried using body filler to patch old screw holes in the roof? I have a few, presumably from old devices which had been removed. Now they have a short screw with some Dicor over them. Am thinking of recoating roof using Rustoleum Deck paint; possibly before that using a filler on the holes. Has anyone done this? Which type of Bondo or other filler was used?

Sad to hear this David, The 2020 gathering was my first and it was a very informative experience. Are you considering other possible venues?

@Granville, Interesting project. Keep us apprised. You may find more competitive prices online for the 3312022 boards than the one I posted earlier.

@Walter I see how similar they are now looking at the wiring diagrams. Not quite though. Looks like some terminal designations changed.... if I understand what the schematics show: - T2 on the new board now gives a connection to medium speed fan, OK, nop problem there. - But on the old board, T2 is wired to the control the reversing valve with other connection of valve going to the C terminal on the run cap. On the new board, either T4 or T7 serves as control for the reversing valve and the other (internally connected to T6?) gets to the to 'C' on the run cap. Not sure of best way to deal with this, maybe testing with a meter should show which is which. - Relays appear to be simple on-off, no momentary "pulses" as I thought there might have been. K6 of the old board controls the compressor as does K2 on the new, so no diff there. It is unclear what K1 on both boards do, but hopefully that won't be an issue. - Other than that the connections appear to be the same, [although mysterious things go on inside to interpret signaling from their respective thermostats. 🙂 ] The new ccc2 control boards are going for low 100's and up, but there may be a few available which were pulled when new Penguin units were converted to use the old CCC thermostats. I'll check eBay once in a while. PS: I'm not in TX now but when I'm there you're probably 1.5hrs away.... or 'just down the road' in TX distances. I'll be back in the fall so if you decide to do this project & the timing is right I could come help.

Yes, I agree, an old-to-new board changeover would be a lot easier than reverse engineering the outputs of the CCC2 thermostat. But the latter is evidently what 'EasyTouchRV' had to do for Dometic as well as Coleman. For the old-to-new board swap, a different and admittedly easier task. While a good meter to check voltage levels may do it, a scope may be necessary if pulse width is involved int the signals. What do you think the thermistors are for? Overtemp? Anyway the new control board runs over a hundred bucks; not cheap but it sure beats shelling out for a new AC. The open question is: who tries it first? I vote for you since you already have a lot of info and likely the know how to do it. 🙂 @William here's new control board... may be less elsewhere: https://pantherrvproducts.com/dometic-3312022-000-replacement-ccc2-electronic-control-board-3312227-000/

#Walter, Not planning on doing either but if someone who has the tech info on the Penguin ACs and the CCC's and has done it I'd be interested in knowing. To adapt the new CCC2 type board to the older AC requires knowing details about the internal electronics of the units and the control signals, or trial-and-error with a lot of luck. I have neither. 🙂 Ditto for reverse engineering a thermostat control signals for the Penguins. After a few years, if EasyTouchRV stays around, that might be a viable option. I learned a lot here.

Most home-type therms are powered by 24vAC (with a few which can work on batteries). Going from 12v to 24vAC is the smaller problem. The difficulty is dealing with the control signals. Home type thermostats usually separate heat and AC controls to different wires but the Dometic Therm's somehow encode/multiplex their signals to work 2 AC's and heaters (or up to four with CCC2.) In order to replicate those signals there's a lot about the Dometic therms which is not documented; determining that is the big part of such a project. There are risks with going with one of the newer RV-thermostats from unknown companies. Well known co's like Honeywell for example are more likely to be around, and have an available replacement if the old therm goes bad.

Here's a page from the 07 Sig WD book which pretty much confirms what you said. The diagram doesn't appear in you WD book or mine but I doubt too much has changed. Note the "Bathroom Dometic controller" (in the Penguin II) connects second in the Daisy chain from the Bedroom AC. Too bad that " EasyTouchRV" thermostat wont work with holder Dometics. Wondering if any of the "smart" thermostats for houses could be adapted to work with both. Dometic-AC-to-Aquahot-wiring-from-2007-Sig-WD.pdf

So if I understand this correctly, the AC's are daisy chained with the 4 conductor RJ11 phone type cable and the connection to the aquahot zones is from each AC is another (2-conductor) cable. I never knew that; never found that in the WD book. Assuming the rear thermostat goes first to the rear AC and then the mid, sort of the reverse of the above diagram, then the mid AC and its Aquahot zone could be isolated from the rear and controlled by the front CCC2. That would be desirable in my setup; too bad there's no "new" control board available for the old penguin AC units.

The reason I asked is I am not sure how the aquahot control will work. Currently the only communication from thermostats is first to the AC unit and, presumably then to the Aquahot. So the front Therm. controls the front AC via its RJ12 "telephone" cable and somehow gets the signal to the Aquahot for its front zone. But how the rear thermostat gets its signal to the Aquahot for zones in rear is unclear to me. Does the cable from the Therm "daisy chain" to rear AC, then to mid AC and then to Aquahot? Or other possibilities: Therm -> RearAC -> MidAC -> Aqhot ... or Therm-> RearAC-> Aqhot-> MidAC ...? I looked in my wiring diagram book and could not find that info; depending on how control cables are connected seems relevant.

I think most if not all 42' and larger coaches were set up the way yours is, with the rear Thermostat controlling the mid unit (near-front). You raise an interesting point about changing cabling from the CCC2 to run a new mid unit from the front. Let us know how it works out when you do it..

@Mike H: A splitter might be responsible for the readings of the "unknown" cable. That is the one for which the other end was not found. However for the cable that was successfully working until a few days ago, I doubt that there was a splitter on it. @quick-tox: It's a digital meter, apparently not very accurate at low capacitance ranges given the non-linearity the measurements have shown.

Update: After reading a few articles about calculating cable lengths using capacitance measurements I figured I'd give that a try. Using the only one of my multimeters which has a capacitance scale I took more measurements. The front-to-rear cable which used to work, the "B" cable to my DISH receiver, measures about 146 pF at the connector in front cabinet. At 16.2pF / ft that comes to about 9 feet. Measurement of the other cable end in the front gave 143pF, also about 9 ft. So if the measurement and calculation is correct, the break would be around 9ft along the cables toward the rear. I decided to check some known cables to see if the readings are consistent with the 16.2pF/ ft. Checked 10 ft cable gave 59pF for about 6 pf/ft; a 20 ft cable 202 pF, about 10pF /ft. Then checked a longer cable, 24.5 ft. The reading was 286pF, about 11/7pf/ft. So it could be the meter is only accurate at higher capacitance levels or the length of the leads affects readings or both. With all this I think the break could be somewhere between ten and twenty ft. from the front.. maybe in the ceiling.

The first thing I tried was shorting one end of cable while using Ohm meter to check other end. with one of the two it showed non-zero; I later tried using a cable tester like the one Mike H had recommended earlier. The other cable-end in front cabinet never had continuity with the rear one, or with any other cable-end I tried; same with the cable end in rear cabinet. But for sure, one pair of cable ends which did check out good are now failing the test using the cable tester. More checking to follow. .. Rick P 05 Sig Conquest

OK now, back to RF cables. It appears that one of the two RF cables between the front and rear AV equipment cabinets which used to used to be OK is no longer working; continuity check today shows it also is open. It seems that whatever happened to one of the two has now happened to the other. Cables run from rear cab down and under slide floor, then into floor to carpeted piece (not sure what to call it) . Questions: where is the most likely place for a cable break? How do I remove the carpeted piece between cabinets and floor? Has anyone run new cables front to rear? Rick P 05 Signature Conquest III

Did it remove the way normal spin on filters remove? Mine looks like it has been on for many years.

Sorry, I should have said "Compressed Air Filter" for the compressor intake. Anyway, has anyone changed theirs? It does not appear in any Monaco maintenance documents I've seen. .. Rick P.

Actually I first was using a terminating resistor (about 90 ohm) and a VOM in resistance mode or a clip lead to short the other end. The only advantage to the $20 kit is it will show which one of up to four is at the end of a particular cable. No method has been successful in showing whether there's a bad connector, a break somewhere or if the cable ends I found are all different ones routed to different places not yet found. Tom (Moderator comment) This was posted twice and I killed one. Good comments.....

I got the explorer test kit with the two remotes. It works as advertised. If the cable(s) are open it cannot tell where the break is, but continuous cables with good connectors test correctly. For example: There are two cables which run to the rear from my passenger equipment cabinet and two cables show up in the rear bedroom TV cabinet. One of the two cables test good and now is hooked up to carry the "SatB" port to my second receiver. (I was planning to use the other one to carry the antenna signal.) In addition to that unknown cable in the PS compartment there are two cables in the DS overhead cabinet labelled "Bedroom TV" and ""VCR". I now know that none of these connect to that cable in the Bedroom TV cabinet. In every test I get an "open"... that could be a break in cable or bad connector at either end.

Thanks for the suggestions and recommendations. I ordered the Klein tracing tool so we'll see how it goes.

In the electronic equipment cabinet (over the passenger seat) there are many cables. Two RF cables go out the rear of the cabinet, presumably into the roof. One is labeled "rear" with a piece of masking tape, the other unlabeled. Front satellite receiver just installed works from one of the new sat cables I put in from the new dish; I was expecting to route another sat output cable from that cabinet to the rear TV. To test I put a 90ohm terminating resistor on end at rear cable and measured R at the front... was expecting to see at least one cable reading around 90. Both showed infinity so I don't know if there's a cable break or if those cables route to another location. Up top, there are also two old cables which look like they are from from the original satellite dish. These cables are not black like all the others, so they may go to a splice and then on to one of the black cables..... somewhere. I know the rear TV is not original; presumably other things have also changed. Suggestions will be appreciated. Rick P 05 Sig ConquestIII (new to me)

Update: I found this in Cummins Quickserve online: Cummins Quickserve lists part# 3683458. It is described as: "Compressed Air Filter" for the turbocharger intake. That crosses to Fleetguard# AF26113 or WIX 49458. I do not know if anyone has changed it.