rpasetto

I think the concern was the similar look of 30a 240v dryer plug (old style) and a 30a 120v RV plug (See Ray's post of a few days ago); the latter having many adapters to a 50a RV socket. Combine that with the OP describing himself as a "Green horn" with no voltmeter, and not seeing a wiring diagram showing how he adapted to his dryer plug. There were safety questions raised, I'm sure. I know some of the members here have strong concerns for safety above all. No offense to to the OP (Scott), but speaking for myself I would rather provide more detail than less.

James, The plug and outlet pictures you posted are devices designed to connect 240v AC, not 120v AC as a 30amp RV plug and outlet. When wired in this way, there's 240vAC between each of the angled slots in the outlet. A 30 amp RV plug may look sort-of like the dryer plug, is made to plug into a 30 amp 120v RV outlet; voltage between the two angled slots should be 120vAC. This is why we've been asking you to measure voltage between the two angled slots. Your 2004 Endeavor is equipped with a 50amp plug for a 50 amp outlet which when used for an RV, supplies two separate 50 amp 120v 'legs'. Depending on how you adapted the 240vAC plug on your coach to the 240vAC dryer plug in your house there may be some resultant damage or not. Do not plug in until you have a properly wired 50amp receptacle or an RV 50 amp to 30 amp adapter. Also heed Tom's advice about your auto transfer switch and, if it is the recalled unit, obtain a safe replacement. Once you are able to safely plug in to proper power, you can then test your appliances to be sure they're OK. The diagram below shows the voltage readings you should expect with that 50 amp outlet. For a coach, the 120vAC readings, labelled "Hot1" and "Hot2" represent the Leg1 and Leg2 referred to earlier.

Bill helped me with coach problems more times than I can count. He taught me to do things I never thought I could do. More than that, Bill was a friend. Rest in peace, Bill. You and your loved ones are in our prayers.

That's good news so far. but before you plug the coach back in test the voltage at the outlet you had plugged in to. Look at the pictures Ray posted above. Does the outlet look like the middle one or the right hand one? The middle one is a 30amp RV outlet. Voltage between the 2 angled pins should be 120v AC. If you are plugging in a 30amp RV plug, measure that voltage to be sure. The Right hand one is a 30amp Dryer outlet. These are wired so the voltage between those 2 angled pins is 240vAC. Do NOT plug a 30amp RV plug into that. On the other hand if you plugged your 50amp RV plug into a NEMA 14-50R receptacle like the one below amd if that was wired for your 240v dryer, it should be OK. In any event check voltages before plugging in: Voltage between the 2 flat slots at the sides should measure 240vAC. Voltage between either of the side flat slots and the flat slot at the bottom should measure 120vAC. The voltage between either of the 2 flat slots at the sides and the 'Ushaped" one at the top should measure 120vAC.

I don't recall exactly but in the middle bay where the HWH 'brain' was mounted, it had one or two connections labelled for "travel" mode. That's why I had said wire(s) 🙂 I recall laying in the bay looking up at the HWH box, disconnecting it and labelling all the wires while Bill (Hotrod) was explaining to me what to do, using the signal from one of the wires which was 'hot" when the key was on. IIRC, HWH charged me around $100 to repair the box... still easier than getting under coach to change a valve or two on a six pack.

Ray's post made me think of a way to check to see if the problem is the control box signal to the travel solenoids. After checking all fuses and making the necessary disconnections you can jumper 12v to the wire(s) which send the travel signal. Start engine and if all airbags comes up properly the signal is the problem. I recall having to do this a year+ ago when I removed the control box to send to HWH for repair.

Bill, This picture below may help explain things. When your HWH system is in leveling mode, the four "raise/lower" valves control air to the air bags in each axle position; the travel valves are closed so not air gets to the valves through the ride height valves. When in "Travel mode" the travel valves open to allow air to pass to the air bags via the one ride height valve in front, the two ride height valves for the drive axle and the tag axle regulator. For example, the left travel valve feeds air to the 2 left airbags via the left ride Ht valve, the right travel valve feeds air to the 2 right airbags via the right ride Ht valve. In front the both travel valves connect thru one ride height valve to feed all four of the airbags. That is, if everything is working correctly. When you are driving, in Travel mode, if the travel valves do not open properly there is nothing the ride height valves can do to get air to the bags, even with the green travel light on. So one thing that needs to be checked is that the valves on the 6-pack are opening and closing properly; valves can stick in either position, or the solenoid can go bad, or the wrong electrical signal can be getting to some of the solenoids. Once you are sure the 6 pack valves are working like they should in travel mode the ride height valves can be checked. Hope this helps.

I already have Star Tron Enzyme Fuel Treatment Super Concentrated Diesel Formula and Hammonds Biobor MD Marine and Over the Road Diesel Additive on my "to order list".... However it seems so far that the Biobor product may be the better alternative to the Startron, if a few bucks more. I'll wait a week or so; by then everyone will have "weighed in" on the subject. I don't mind spending the bucks to provide protection against the "unknown". The Biobor MD 32oz bottle should treat a tankfull plus. I've been away from the coach for more time than I planned this winter so I know I'd better do something when I get back to it. Thanks everyone for all the info.

The Biobor JF bottle shows a "maintenance" dose with the shock dosage being double. I've been using it at the "maintenance level" every other fill up (maybe I should step that up)... But when you use the Startron do you skip the Biobor or do both as the same time?

That Progressive Industries 50A RV Receptacle Tester does not appear to test the voltage difference between the two legs, so It is sort of the equivalent of plugging one of the $10 GFI testers into outlets on both L1 and L2. I like that idea of a light on the test box to determine voltage between L1 and L2. Searched and there are a few devices out there, even cheap meters, so I will add that to my tester.

Yes, the "fake 50amp-1" had a 50 amp breaker. It's pretty easy to find if you check voltage between the two "hot" pins on the 50 amp and get 0. (Either "hot to neutral should be 110v to 120v. Voltage between the two hots should be 220v-240v if the outlet is properly wired.) I recall vaguely that this happened more than once to me.

@Dennis, I built something very similar to yours; use it in suspected/unknown CGs but probably should use it every time. I'm puzzled by the term 'fake 50amp'. I've run into some pedestals where both 'hot pins' on the 50 amp are connected to the same 120v leg, I'll call this "Fake-50amp-1". Normally the "hot" legs on a 50amp are have a difference of 240vAC between the two. Then each leg serves as a return for the current drawn on the other leg with the neutral taking care of any imbalance. If both legs of the 50 amp are actually on the same leg (the voltage pin-to-pin will be zero); any heavy current draw could overload the neutral which must serve as the return for both hot legs in that case. I can test this on my device using a voltmeter between the 'hots' of the two outlets. The other thing I've heard about, call it "Fake-50amp-2", is where the legs are opposite, but fed by wiring which has lower current carrying capacity than 50a, maybe one wire is feeding a 30amp receptacle and the other a 20 amp on a different leg but in the same pedestal. Not sure how to test for that except to check that connections aren't getting hot.

Saw the reference to ping tanks in earlier post so I thought this may apply. If there are braided hoses to the ping tanks, a leak may go unnoticed. My 05 has these big (1"?) braided lines from ping tanks to airbags. After spraying everything else, I decided to give those lines a heavy spraying using dawn solution in garden pump sprayer. After using maybe a quart, the 'beard of bubbles" appeared at one bend on one braided line. Replaced them.

For wood blocks I've made some using 2x6s with a piece of 1/2" OSB in between. Adhesive used is both ext. glue and construction adhesive, both sides of the OSB. They're put together using screws until adhesives are fully cured; then screws don't matter anyway.. Result is a 3 1/2" x 5 1/2"; Lengths run about 12" to 16". I believe these are less likely to split when stacked than 4x4 or 4x6.

@Dennis, I'm in the same boat with that pump. Mine works now, but I get the feeling it is not long to "give up the ghost". Someone here (? or another forum) moved his forward to the water compt, replaced with one made by Viair. I'm thinking of doing that myself... one of my projects in the "eventually" list. I remember my old pump on my 03 Dyn was replaced with a Viair too. It's noisier, but being forward, it didn't matter that much.

I had the problem with my 03 Dynasty. In my case the HWH board was fried, a dead short somewhere IIRC. The 03 has a different HWH system than 05's so this may be different. Anyway, I took the HWH brain box out, sent to HWH for repair and was able to jumper the IGN on to the travel mode signal. I recall wiring up a relay to supply 12v to whatever wire tells the HWH 6packs to go into travel mode. Memory is foggy on this. Don't remember the exact detail. Hotrod was parked next door and he walked me through what to do. Hopefully he will weigh in here.

I've been to that area quite a few times but there's no one there I can think of to recommend. Not saying there are none. Now if you're heading to AZ, Phoenix area, there may be some who can make recommendations.

@Dennis, I like the idea of a Coach Project List too. Boxes get checked but somehow the 'to do' section grows 🙂 I've been running two categories in the to-do part; The second in "Eventually" ; lots of stuff there too. Recently aded one other category, "Deferred" and a "Cancelled". Don't know how long those will stay. You have a beautiful coach! One of the Monaco models we were considering when we 'pulled the trigger' on out "last" coach upgrade.

We had our 03 Dyn for 15 years... Sold it, always wanted a Sig. We have a bit more luxury now. Continue to love these coaches. We discussed lots... decided if we ever 'trade up', an S10 Monaco is the only direction we go... That was our opinion and we stuck to it. Took years to find a Monaco we liked better that our '03. The S-10 chassis was designed to live under a coach, not truck or other. I was honored over a decade ago to meet an engineer who had been a designer of the old WW-II gliders, the ones which 'landed' at Normandy... He explained to me the 'hows" and 'whys" of semi-monocoque chasses... he talked about forces, vectors, trusses and all that. He owned a Monaco.

Surprised to hear about the rear main. When we sold our 03 Dynasty last year it had 160k+ if I recall... was talking to the mech about valve lash... don't know when that is due. What I remember... watch fuel leaks, they can mess up wiring long-term... Don't let anyone who doesn't know what they're doing touch injector lines; that includes C. Get a mech who looks you in the eye when he talks to you. That's not ISL specific. 🙂 Enjoy, you seem to have a great coach. I see you're in the ballpark with MPG. 🙂

On our Jeep Cherokee and RAM pickups, the dealer told us it takes about a mile+/- for the sensors to detect the correct tires. Not sure how, but I suspect there are more than one detector so the TPMS can locate sensor by distance, direction or both. By the way, tire rotation for our vehicles, all 4WDs, calls for moving rears to front and crossing front to back, the "forward-cross" method.

Jim, I have an older TST system. Bought it back in the early 2000s so it's 15+ years old. I never experienced the false reading problem in all this time. Will the new TST color monitor work with my sensors?

+1 to what David L. and Bob N. said. Nuclear is a realistic source of energy, compared to solar and wind. Sadly politics and "crony capitalism" has continually maligned Nuclear while inaccurately lauding wind and solar. For example: Solar energy density at the surface of the earth is 1kW/square meter. Solar panel technology is at best 20% at the panel and use of storage batteries, inverters and cabling to deliver electricity brings that number down significantly. Let's call it 10% to be generous. Based on this, at noon on a sunny day, 10 sq meters of solar panel surface produce a kilowatt of electricity. When sun is not directly overhead, results are somewhat less (one can figure that out using trig). To get 100kW at the noon hour, you'd need 1000 sq meters of solar panel, about a quarter acre. Rather than go more off topic, here's something which definitely relates to Diesel fuel cost. There has been substantial research on production of clean diesel fuel from coal. This is conceptually related to the Fischer-Tropf process but is significantly different. Profs. Alan S. Goldman, Rutgers and Maurice Brookhart, UNC, have received a patent for this over a decade ago. (https://patents.google.com/patent/US7902417B2/en). The theoretical and lab science has been done, but a lot of R&D remains. Due to the catalytic process they designed, the process is capable of producing clean fuel, unlike Fischer-Tropf, to which it has been incorrectly compared. https://chemistry.illinois.edu/system/files/inline-files/CHEM535Spring2011_WangAbstract.pdf https://science.sciencemag.org/content/312/5771/257/tab-article-info

Back in the "olden days" Diesel was produced with sulfur content in the 5,000ppm range. The EPA began regulating sulfur content in 1993. By the late 1990s thru the early 2000's when many of our engines were built, the standard was Low Sulfur Diesel. LSD had a requirement of 300ppm (or less). The requirement for Ultra Low Sulfur diesel is 15ppm. ULSD was "phased in" between 2006 and 2010. (https://www.epa.gov/diesel-fuel-standards/diesel-fuel-standards-and-rulemakings#:~:text=EPA began regulating diesel fuel,low sulfur diesel (ULSD).) Although I've heard claims that ULSD improves performance, efficiency or emissions of the earlier non-DEF engines, which were designed to run on LSD I have not seen any substantiation of this. I am sure many of us recall the days when Diesel was less than Regular gasoline, the refining cost for diesel at that time was lower. My recollection is as these regulations were imposed it increasingly raised the costs of diesel fuel, evidently due to refining cost. In the years when both LSD and ULSD was available, the market prices for the former were lower, when you could find it. When ULSD became the only diesel fuel diesel prices seemed to run higher than premium gasoline and both have been pretty high ... until after 2018 when US net import of crude hit zero.

The OP was about diesel fuel prices. I thought my first post was relevant, that is, about what the diesel prices are and how it relates to the energy picture in the US. I apologize to Bob If I went off-topic there in that first post. I fueled up today in that same station and the prices were still substantially the same, there and in the surrounding area. @Pampero. If you want to start a thread about electric vehicles and solar and wind power I suggest: (1) you start a new thread, (2) provide substantiation for your claims, (3)leave out sweeping statements like "still importing almost 50% of our consumption" and "you have free energy for a long time" unless you can substantiate them.