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Thanks for the info on removal. Hopefully I won't have to do that. I removed the outside access panel and found loose fiberglass behind the refrigerator and some dropping down towards the coil area below. Underneath was extremely dusty; I did a first pass vacuuming underneath; went to take a break as I write this now. Plugged the reefer in and it looks likes it's started cooling. there's a lot of dust (probably some fiberglass shreds too) underneath which I will go back to removing with a refrigerator coil brush I now have and more vacuuming. I will eventually make a semi rigid foam block to secure the reefer compartment. [No way will I put loose fill fiberglass back in there.] So if it works reliably after all the airflow blocking dust is removed, I may not need to pull it out to test components in the rear. It looks like the evaporator fan & motor are accessible from inside the freezer compartment but repair to Condenser fan, motor capacitor and other parts require rear access.

We discovered the Whirlpool Reefer in the coach was at 70F in both compartments last night. Seems it just suddenly stopped working. It seems to be the OEM model (gs2shexns00). Just now looking over the various diagnostic steps for what could be wrong; some parts, like the Condenser fan, require getting to the back of the refrigerator and I have no idea how to move it out of the cabinet. THere doesn't seem to be anything bolting it to the floor. Suggestions will be appreciated.

I've never used the LED tube replacements for the fluorescents. I have used self adhesive LED strips which can be wired directly to 12v. I just disconnect ballasts from the circuit and leave 'em in place as they don't seem to get in the way. Did them all on our last coach but your post reminds me I have a few yet to do on this one. 🙂

+1 on contacting Centroid; they are very helpful. As a quick test you can try disconnecting the wires to the fuel sending unit.

Outstanding work, Jim.

The files section has two wiring files which, may be close to your '94 Dynasty. Hope these help. Congrats on your battle with Ca! Blessings and safe and healthy travels.

Travel with a toad? Keep extra coach key in toad; also extra toad key in coach (somewhere... maybe different for everyone).

I remember replacing it a few years back on my Dynasty. You're right, they are contacts designed for a mopar minivan sliding door. Mine stayed together after that. It could be that the one you bought was a poorly made copy. You might want to try another source; stuff from Amazon may get delivered fast but is not necessarily the best quality.

Have you tried the signal without the toad connected? ... or ... Does the problem occur that way too? If it only happens with toad connected there could be a a bad ground or some other wiring problem in the toad's wiring. If the problem is still the same with the toad NOT connected, check for a bad ground in the RH lighting wiring.

Roy, Great job on the installation! New "handle-less" RF18 has a nicer look than the OEM residentials Monaco used. Looks like you 'repurposed' the old drawer fronts as cabinet doors up top. You may be able to sell the doors in eBay to someone looking for panel doors on their Norcold or for using the wood panels for another purpose. Those pics of the cabinet inside looked so familiar, reminding me of some years back, when I did the RF197 install on the '03 Dynasty I used to have. Then I saw your signature 🙂

Booked our reservation.

Is the Ugly fix in the same category as EGR delete? Apparently they're selling them online. https://www.theuglyfix.com/default.asp

If you ae getting any voltage (more than millivolts) between a probe in the actual ground and the "ground" of the power post, there's a grounding problem somewhere in the power distribution circuitry. Your neighbor's test run of genset proved that.

Paul, have you thought about 3D printing the 6-button covers? If you do you can put me down for a couple. I also have a "wide" 6-button panel that's as wide as my 10 button panels; wondering if there are working switches are in the empty positions on those too.

@scottjo02, Yes. I recall having to tighten the fittings on the 7.5 Onan in my Dynasty. I always thought that working from underneath made tightening those fittings more difficult. The 12.5k and 10k have a door for side access; that makes changing the oil filter an easy task, but on mine, the fuel filter change is a knuckle buster... there's barely enough space to make a 1/6 turn with a flare wrench. A flare crowfoot would make that a little easier. My 12.5 has a steel fuel line going from the fuel pump thru an internal wall. One way would be to get a shorter steel line from the pump thru the wall, then go the rest of the way with a rubber hose. Hoping someone has done this; looks like you need to take the case off. The newer 12.5 has rubber fuel lines both to and from the filter, and they're curved and long enough to actually pull the filter out. Filter mounting looks completely different ... see below.

Did Genset service this AM on my Onan 12.5 HDCAB. The worst part by far was removing and reinstalling fuel filter. The fuel line coming from the pump is steel, the one to the engine is rubber. How much easier it would be if that steel line was rubber too, like the newer models. Then I could just bring the whole assembly out to change. Has anyone changed that fuel line on a 12.5HDCAA or 12.5HDCAB?

Covered a piece of plywood and fashioned brackets. Front brackets go to screws of windshield defogger registers; rear brackets to top screws of center console. there's a 3 position 12vDC outlet suspended from each front corner. Laptop runs Street Atlas and VMSpc. If I ever want remove it, dash top remains completely stock.want to I know I need to straighten up the cables, haven't got there yet but it needs to be done.

Do you have HWH air leveling? I believe it could also be the LH rear travel valve sticking.

So anyway if anyone has this type of fuel hose, there's a way. I spent some time looking for re-usable JIC fittings and learned there are fittings for all sorts of hose types rubber and silicone wire impregnated and otherwise... not for this hose. I carried my sample around... no luck. Thinking about the original fittings somehow got pressed into that fuel hose ... there had to be a way. So I started a search for tools to do it; learned a lot. There are plenty of such tools, the least costly one I found was a $300 one with variations and add-on adapters to handle various size hose and fitting combinations but I figured without part numbers and still learning all the designations of hose and fittings it would take me some few hundred north of that and a lot of time anyway. Right about then I realized how nice it would be to have a machine shop and know how to use it... no chance there. So I went to the woodshop. The device below is made of wood, bolts, threaded rod and nuts, all stuff found at Lowes and Home Depot. It clamps on the the hose and pushes it on to the fitting. Test setup shown below. The green arrows indicate nuts used to clamp down on the hose. The yellow hose is a cutoff used for testing the "press". In actual use, the hose is wrapped with double layer of electrical tape for protection before going inside the clamp. (had that piece since the old hose needed to be shortened a bit). The red arrows indicate the locked nuts used to "wrench" down the hose over the barb once it's clamped in place. I actually used a drill to do some of the bolt turning once the hose was started on the barb. The brass fitting (orange arrow) is just a test part, not the 1/2 barb to JIC one. Thanks to the DW for helping; this was a two person job; much trickier than it looks, working in the tight quarters of the engine compartment. So if any of you all have this kind of hose and run into a situation where you need to press fittings on, give a holler; maybe I can help.

Finally completed the install of my 790R30. Thanks to Paul Whittle for suggesting the shutoff valves. I was still uncomfortable with the idea of using the 3/8 fittings with 1/2ID hose so they were replaced with 1/2" barb to 1/2" JIC. The trick was to get the barb fitting into this plastic-nylon-?? fuel hose. Could the 3/8" be too much of a restriction? Would it wait to remind me when I climb the first big hill? What the heck, it should be possible to press those fittings into that ?? hose. It was tough, a project in itself figuring out how to get the 1/2" barb into this 1'2" ID hose. I used the clamp as a 'backup"' just in case... figured it couldn't hurt. I still don't know what the hose is made of but after some research and delays on other things I came up with a solution...

Josams did a front and rear alignment on my Dynasty and I plan to have them do one on this Sig too.

@Paul A. @Mocephus An excellent idea, Paul. This way you'll know what they'll do in advance.

@Batmobile, @Scotty: Bob did a fantastic job and I know many followed his lead in doing their Samsung install. One caution however it that the current RF18 model is slightly different in dimensions than the RF197 so that should be checked.

@Mocephus Thanks for the pictures. I'm going under the coach at first opportunity and takin a look at mine. I will try get gussets installed here, as I suspect they're not on my coach either. Otherwise may need to go to Josams too. If anyone with a newer Sig (06? 07?) has them (gussets, that is) a picture will be appreciated.

Back when we had our Dynasty we replaced the Norcold 1200 with a Samsung RF197. We dodged the proverbial bullet, noticed ammonia smell from the 1200 and shut it down. Back then I did a power consumption comparison. Comparing the "amps" is meaningless; the ampere is just a measure of current flow, when the device is running. The key is comparison of the power (KWH or WH) drawn over a given time. Any good comparison should consider the appliances running under the same conditions, eg. same ambient temperature and same target temperature inside the refrigeration and freezing compartment. The 197 kept temperatures in both compartments lower than the 1200 ever did. House batteries were adequate over night for dry camping for each. with the 197 drawing somewhat more electric power than the 1200 did when it was running on gas. The 1200 on electric would kill the batteries in no time so we never tried that. I recall doing the math but don't have those figures handy. Ran the genset to recharge the next day either way.