Ivylog

Air chambers push and a weak spring returns it…lengthen the rod.

I do drive at night and yes the stock headlights suck. Just replacing the bulbs with LED isn’t going to do much other than blind oncoming traffic. Need a projector headlight designed for the LED bulb provided. I experimented with several different LED spot lights and the below were by far the best plus they are adjustable in all 3 axises… need for the curved front. Mounted next to the mirror bases for a better angle downward. Added a foot switch to control them,

I would love to drive your rig before and after putting the bolt back together or better yet, drive it without knowing if it’s connected or not and post the improvement in handling. Yes, I’m doubting Thomas as I put in 12+ hour days on the S-10 chassis (100,000+ miles) on the Watts Link improving its handling???

Unfortunately it’s no longer a seller’s market. I looked at 01 Dynasty non tag prices and I wish the majority good luck selling at $45K+. I’ve bought 4 DPs and haven’t paid more than NADA low retail without adding any options… $33,400 for your rig. The AquaHot, tires, and batteries are a plus and the low mileage may not be for some. I see storm clouds on the horizon and the first thing to go are the toys. Sorry, not what you want to hear and I’m usually an optimist person, but we are in deep do do as a nation. Will it hit the fan in the next year, probably not.

Mike, the dash temp gauges could be off but having both in that range suggests they are fairly accurate. My 04 Dynasty would run hotter than that on long climbs, geared down and 1800 rpms. By now, I wouldn’t worry about the past stop light.

You may be able to tighten that clamp… doesn’t look to be that bad of a leak. Since you pulled a 6600’ pass as usual, you have a gauge issue. At altitude it’s normal to get a puff of black smoke when you first accelerate. DO NOT take it to Floyd Truck repair, not that you need to take it anywhere…stop looking at the gauge.

Software version of the display…ignore it.

THANKS!

Anyone replace their Kenwood radio (KVT-M707) and the LZ-702W touch screen display? The touch screen has stopped working on the display and before I replace the screen I’m hoping someone has the LZ-702W display laying around. Would be interested in buying both items. Thanks

So much for needing to change the fuel filters every year.

A WIX 33783 isn’t what I’d put as the 3rd filter…1st yes as it’s a water separator filter.

About the only time I raise my tag is when changing the tires.

Might want to watch the video again. The truck was passing the other truck fast enough that the gap closed up before the idiot got there. The truck almost swerved left and braked enough as another foot and the RV would not hit the truck. Look how small the gap is when the RV gets alongside and how far to the left the truck is and the gap between the 2 trucks would be much smaller if he hadn’t braked hard. Fortunately the dash cam proved he was not at fault.

Yes I’m still using and like it. The motor doesn’t stick down further than the front cap plus being at the axle, never gets closer to the road. Could use a little more adjustment so I would use a 6” stroke. I looked at something like that but only 220lbs bothered me. The S-T-+ mounting arm limits the mechanical advantage to 3 to 1 so I would use the below. This arm that pivots would have to be a little further away for the 3” of travel towards the mounting plate and the longer length of the activator.

The truck was ganing/passing the other truck with lots of speed difference. The MH missed judged (should have braked) and clipped the truck that tried to move over to the left. After the dust settles only 2 vehicles came through…. so much for the line of vehicles behind.

I’d go with something like this…EBay

The higher voltage with the engine running will take care of an extra 100 amps starting. Like Counyry B, my condenser is up front, but behind the front axle. I recently added a starting battery beside the generator so definitely wouldn’t be an issue for me. IF something major goes bad at the back, I’d seriously consider this.

I removed a S-T-+ stabilizer until I could adjust it on the fly…made driving tiring. https://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/making-a-safe-t-plus-adjustable-451209.html

You should have 2 control knobs on the left, the Silverleaf and a camera selector to try and see which cameras are working. At least you’re gaining and a place in IN wanted an additional $1000 to install the system.

Does the camera select switch on the left console do anything?

Yes you have a BIRD…follow the small green wires from the BigBoy all the way to the right. If the BigBoy is hot to the touch, the BIRD is working (have to be on shore power and charger turned on). If not hot, check the two 7.5 amp fuses on the BIRD board. If hot, check that the voltage is exactly the same on the 2 big lugs at the bottom. In not the same, the contacts inside need cleaning.

In the dash there’s a video switcher… 4 cameras in and one video out. I’d try plugging the right camera into the working left RCA plug.

The newer software will not work with the square sensors and maybe Vito went to round ones???

While the exact location may not be the same here’s my locations. IF you have 4 screws then the bottom ones will be 6 3/4” lower.

If you have the Vorad radar cruise, this may be of interest. Pretty amazing that 15+ year old coaches had this feature as an option. Recently mine would stop working after 4-6 hours but after turning off for an hour it would work again. Retrived a engine communication fault code out of it. Had previously bought a used truck CPU off EBay but it didn’t do much of anything when I swapped it. Fortunately one of the original developers still works on them so I sent both CPUs to him. Surprisingly the used one was in pretty good shape and with the updated MH software it worked. He had to rotate the gyro in it so it mounted in the same direction. He updated the software in my original one as one of the fixes is better communication with the engine… he couldn’t get it to fault on his test bench. I’d read where the entire side console and switches had to be removed as it’s mounted behind it. Fortunately only the top 2 screws held mine in so I estimated where the screws were and drill 1/2” holes through the fiberglass console. Getting it out was fairly simple and back in took 15 minutes. Had already made a long square bit (naturally they didn’t use Phillip). Will be a couple months before I’ll have the MH out to test it.