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Everything posted by Ivylog
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I haven’t found corrosion to be a issue for starting batteries… yes for house and agree AGMs there is worth the $$$. Most 31s starting batteries are 950 cca and some even 1150…the $450 Lifeline GPL-3100T AGM is 1120 cca, BUT at 70 degrees, not 32. Not sure how 4 batteries that weigh the same, put out more amps ??? 4 1400 X $235=$940. I just bought 3 950 cca 31s for $105 each… $315 and 2850cca. What amphibious plane do you have? I also use AGM in my airplane
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I’m with you and IF he’d left off “deep cycle” then yes the group 31 size battery is what’s usually installed for starting.
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I did much the same as Richard^^^. 1000W PSW inverter with a transfer switch as the other was MSW. Added 2 more 12V batteries and a 100A charger to decrease the generator run time.
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Just putting in a led bulb to replace a halogen bulb (1st pic) may be brighter BUT the led light source is not as concentrated (bigger area 2nd pic) and may even decrease your sight distance…not as much of a spot light. I put in LEDs that let me rotate them to a 3-9 o’clock orientation knowing even those wouldn’t increase my sight distance. Did it to reduce the amps through the Smart wheel controller instead of adding relays. If you go LED, you need to buy a projection headlight designed for the led bulb. I experimented with several different led spotlights on my SUV that has very good headlights. The cheapest ones were definitely the best for increasing the sight distance plus they were the only ones adjustable in all 3 axis… need to mount on the curved front cap. 3rd picture I did a post on this previously:
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RV salvage yard near you. Search for one near you.
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Air filter vacuum gauge
Ivylog replied to Steve P's topic in Engine, Transmission, Engine Cooling, & Hydraulics
Only in the MH world do most change the oil every year regardless of miles and crank the engine and generator every month. In the making a living world it’s 15,000+ miles and even longer if you oil sample. Farmers do not go out and crank their machines every month during the winter or during the summer if not being used. Recently there was even a recommendation to change the air filter every year on another forum. In the real world, we take it out every day and tap it against something to knock the dust out of it. Once a week we swap it with one we’ve blown clean and maybe after 5 years we buy a new one. IF the filter minder doesn’t move a little when you reset it (push on the end) I’d take the hose off at the other end and suck on it. If it doesn’t move, time to check for a leak in the hose.If it’s reading around 18-20 I’d change the filter when convenient. -
Air filter vacuum gauge
Ivylog replied to Steve P's topic in Engine, Transmission, Engine Cooling, & Hydraulics
It looks like the gauge is reading 16 and won’t turn ted until closer to 25. You can test the accuracy of it with a 5’ small, clear plastic tube with 30” of water in it. Hook the tube to it with the water almost at it in a half circle. Lower the open end until it turn red and then measure the distance between the upper level and the lower level in the other side. -
Air filter vacuum gauge
Ivylog replied to Steve P's topic in Engine, Transmission, Engine Cooling, & Hydraulics
To the left, out of sight, there’s another small window. When it’s red in it, it’s time to change the filter… likely around 20+ inches of water. -
Slide drifting in on ‘05 Beaver
Ivylog replied to tmw188's topic in Body, Awning, Roof, Slides, & Steps
I would hold the switch on for several seconds after the slide stops moving so hopefully the debris is moved from the valve. My 08 bed is hydraulic. -
2005 Signature (and others) 18" third brake light - DIY Replacement
Ivylog replied to pwhittle's topic in Electrical Systems
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While not a fan of Jeeps, they are a very popular toad. Buy one with a aftermarket steel bumper and a used tow bar… EBay or FB Marketplace
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V band clamp
Ivylog replied to Rikadoo's topic in Engine, Transmission, Engine Cooling, & Hydraulics
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Fortunately my tag’s regulator went to over 100 psi on a rainy day. Noticed that the compressor was cycling more often and that the psi in the tag tires had increased more than normal… didn’t have temps. Stopped and could hear the regulator leaking and the gauge about maxed out. Cycled the knob back and forth and finally got it back to the 45 psi I use. Have no idea why and that was 10+ years ago… never messed up again.
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Outlets not working - sparked outlet - 2007 Diplomat
Ivylog replied to Coach J's topic in Electrical Systems
You have a short (pin breakers keep tripping) probably where it sparked previously . Dynasty and above have 2 GFI breakers in the main panel. -
Outlets not working - sparked outlet - 2007 Diplomat
Ivylog replied to Coach J's topic in Electrical Systems
Pin breakers on the side of the inverter is where I’d start. -
X2 on full fuel and water tank plus I go 5 psi over the tables as when the horse is headed to the barn, it makes no difference how strong the crosswinds are… big difference in tire temps on each side.
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While the TSD card is great compared to the bend over price… paying with your checking account negates the 5% (15-20 cents) back with a Sam’s or Costco credit card plus their price is as good as most discounted price.
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On the 42’ Dynasty it was close (R front airbag because of the step well) but never rubbed. 45’ Navigator… plenty of room.
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Tom, thanks for the heads up although I‘m well aware of the specifications of the BigBoy and how the voltage is pulsed. I was replying to those who have a “Little Boy”… Trombetta 114-1211-020 which is a continuous duty solenoid.
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Yes Yes, reducing the weight on the front will reduce the harshness of the ride. With 15K on the front you needed 120 psi in your 295s. Once you get the front below 14K (it’s rated 14,600) you’ll likely need 110 and 85 in the drivers, and 75 in the tags. I run 315s on the front because I can reduce by 10 psi what’s need to carry the weight… softening the harshness. I run 11Rs on the rear but they require 10 psi more to carry the same weight as a 295… not a problem on the rear and they are the same diameter.
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With a ISL your drive axle is rated 20K and tag 10K (23/12 with a ISM). Unfortunately all the big Monacos are heavy on the front axle and to take as much weight as possible off it you need to load the drive to its max (20K) by reducing the tag’s airbag psi. I would use 40 psi when you weigh next, based on 80K mikes on a 42’ Dynasty weighing many times. These things have a way of gaining weight so I would shoot for 19K on the drive.
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Yes, you can wedge something under the boost switch to charge the house batteries.
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Which engine do you have?
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What were your axle weights and 80 is almost double what I run.