Ivylog

Power at the brake switch means the switch is bad… switch supplies the ground for the brake lights.

Not sure why most make them so long Had two scrap 4’ 2X10s and piece of plywood.

You have a 12V fuse panel often near the 120V circuit breaker panel, something in the bathroom or wherever. Power comes from that 12v source.

I’ve re-sewn 12 toppers so far (3 different rigs in the family) and can do 3 of the 4 by myself. Couple years ago while on the road, I couldn’t get the wife to stand on a short ladder to help put a new spring in the topper roller…first time in 30 years I used a dealer. At 77 I still do all my own repairs, upgrades, MH oil changes (take the cars to WalMart for $20) and still put in multiple 12+ hour days to/from CO. Last year I had to replace the aluminum oil pan on my ISX. Should have put down something softer than cardboard on the gravel. I believe in “Use it or loose it” so have no plans to stop doing my own whatever. Your mileage may vary. May have been a little optimistic buying a new skid steer and F350 last year but like it says on the back of the MH….

I’ll assume you are checking the 120V at the control board on the roof?

One of the reasons for using a Samsung is the DC compressor runs well on a MSW inverter. I would check the voltage of the inverter power….problem may be the inverter, not the Samsung.

You can put a new end on your cable as a new 40’ is $165.

Many years ago I tested the AGS to see if it worked…never used it as I monitor my battery voltages when dry camping. Don’t need it starting during quite hours. Current rig I’ve not bothered to see if it works as most mornings even though the house AGM battery voltage is usually 12.2-.3, the generator will not start unless I use the boost switch. Fairly common problem with the long battery cable runs. Adding another battery next to the generator is only on my “some day” list. I have a 300amp diode I’ll add to the current 12V cable before the new battery so the house batteries cannot draw it down but it will still charge the new battery. On second thought, it’s probably on my I “doubt it” list.

I was able to reduce my voltage drop from a little over 1V to 0.4V by tightening the multiple of connections. This was when drawing 100+ amps which I rarely do as anytime I’m inverting that many amps, I crank the generator if quite hours allow. Yes, it helps when charging but by the time the battery voltage gets above 14, the amps have decreased to where there’s maybe 0.1V difference. Contrary to many, Lithiums can be charged using a AGM setting…they are not that picky and 13.4V is 99% charged.

On a 3012 with the same remote it stays solid green. The charger light will blink if you turn it off. Welcome to the learning curve.

For decades I’ve been adding a small amount of 90 weight gear oil to my many trailer bearings instead of repacking if the bearings are tight. Fill the dust cap with the oil and slap it back on. Softens the grease up but not enough to leak. Do the same thing to the MH’s front axle bearings by taking the aluminum cover off, drilling & tapping for a 1/4” pipe plug in the center. Squeeze about half a cup of 90 weight in and put a pipe plug in. You can see with the cap off that the tapper bearings force the grease to the outside where it just sits there. Softening it up let’s it move back into the bearings.

Do a 2 point turn…overshoot the turn with the nose over and pointing into the ditch/grass past the driveway. Turn the wheel all the other way and backup. Now you should be able to complete the turn with plenty of room. I rarely raise my tag as it doesn’t make much difference.

Richard, when it was time to replace the front tires on my 04 Dynasty, I put 315s on instead of 295s reducing the psi by 10. Without 295s on the front, I went with 11Rs on the rear by adding 8 psi to the fairly low pressures need on the rear and they are the same diameter as a 295. Have you’ve put enough stuff in your “new” Dynasty to go weigh it? My educated guess is with 40 psi in the tag’s airbags you will have 14K on the front, a little less than 20K on the drive axle, and 6K on the tag requiring 115 front, 90 in the 11Rs and 80 (minimum psi) in the tag regardless of size. .. I go 5 over the charts because of driving in strong crosswinds except in the tag on the Dynasty. I put 6 11Rs on the back of my much heavier 45’ Navigator and run 105 in the 11Rs and 105 in the 315s on the front. Again this is +5 psi over what the charts calls for. Monday I helped a 04 Executive that wouldn’t start get back on the road and noticed it had 8 11Rs on it. Helped him put 125 psi in the front 2 instead of the 110 all 8 tires had. Reduced the tags down to 85. Recommend he replace the front 2 with 315s ASAP.

Alternator light coming on when driving with the generator running is normal. Turning your headlights on will stop the light from coming on.

“they have TWO fixed axles, which naturally resist having their direction changed” I thought the drive axle was mounted to the same squirming H frame?

15 years ago I made my own out of a 1.5” air cylinder I had for $20…mainly air line fittings and tubing. Takes 30 seconds to put the cord around the brake pedal and connect the air quick connection. Need to bleed the vacuum brake assist off or it will slide the tires the first couple times. Rubber bungee strap pulls it back

Not a motor overload. The multiplex system keep doing what’s it told (intermittent wipers) until it’s told to do something else like stop… the wipers are not getting that command.

Having to change the fuel filters after running a tank dry or close to empty is BS. I run to near empty all the time… having put 160 gallons in a 150 gallon tank. The pickup tube is at the bottom of the tank… takes fuel off the bottom all of the time. I usually get 25-30K miles out of my fuel filters which I only change when the engine will not make 100% power.

When putting in air , do both gauges go up and then come down at roughly the same time? If they do then the leak is not inside the dash and is on the supply side of things. That large a leak will blow the bubbles away…hardly have time to form.

Two of us took a 1200 out the door of a 03 Sig and it took 3 to get the Samsung in without removing the passenger seat. Did cover it with a piece of scrap carpet. In our 04 Dynasty I removed the driver’s side window (not the seat) and removed the 1200 by myself onto a forklift positioned outside. Wife and I bought in a 21 Whirlpool (non counter depth) and installed having lowered the floor 3/4” to make it fit perfectly.

Unless you can plug-in at the shop, you need to remove everything from the residential refrigerator and turn the inverter off. Often there is a big difference in displayed voltage and voltage at the batteries. Plus as 96evo said, the voltage will increase once the load cuts off complicating what lbco you set and Lithiums can be drawn down even lower. When dry camping my rule of thumb is crank the generator whenever you are going to draw a lot of amps, like making coffee in the morning, assuming quite hours allow. If not allowed I’ll get out the propane single burner and make coffee the old gas way instead of further depleting the battery.

“lithium-ion batteries can be charged from 32°F to 113°F and discharged from –4°F to 140°F” not 90 degrees as previously posted. Instead of a DD to DC I’m going to try switching the alternator on-off on a yet to be determined cycle… $7 programmable remotely controlled switch.

Kind of hard to loosen the lug nuts with the tire in the air…500+ torque.

My educated guess is it’s an intermittent electrical issue. Maybe, in servicing the engine, a wiring harness is moved (reaching into the engine on driver’s side) causing the problem.