Ivylog

Transfer switch will only connect to one source so having both powered will not hurt anything. Turning the inverter on (not sure why you’d turn it off) isn’t going to change anything… the transfer switch in it will still pass power through. If you only use a inverter to power a refrigerator (not likely) and if the current inverter is a MSW and you are not powering a Samsung, then another 1000W PSW inverter would reduce your power usage BUT unless you dry camp often, not worth the effort.

Only 10” long.

I replaced with a cleat cover and added LED panels plus a strip above.

Check the pin breakers on your inverter.

Hasn’t in 39K miles that I can tell although I’ve been told there’s a cheaper way… metal freeze plug in the EGR tube where it bolts to the intake manifold. With no EGR, the exhaust gas is going to be hotter so you do not want to lug your engine… manual keep the RPMs up if necessary.

Complicated trimming system and not sure I’d spend $1000 to fix. I remove a S-T-+ until I could trim it on the fly as it made driving noticeable tiring.

It’s probably just a $150 resistor that tricks the computer into thinking you’re at 10,000’ closing the EGR valve. I’ve read it sometimes turns the check engine light on but doesn’t derate the engine.

My point was KISS

“I’d love to do a electronically controlled Air suspension so that I can vary the ride height as it's driving. Drop the suspension height as you pick up speed, for that road hugging handling and improved aerodynamics.” Mount 3 of these instead of the ride height rods. Have the lowered fully retracted so they are equalize the length.

There’s another aux air post with 4 pages below your post. Near the end of page 4 I posted info about my pump and what I was replacing it with. Adapting to the air output was the hardest part. If doing again I would put a barbed fitting in a short section of the yellow line.

A 03-04 Executive will be close enough or a 03 Navigator even closer. https://library.rvusa.com/brochure/03Executive.pdf https://recreationalvehicles.info/2004-monaco-the-executive/amp/ https://www.rvroundtable.com/wp-content/uploads/holiday-rambler/Navigator/2003.navigator.pdf

That’s fine BUT the micro and some outlets are still powered through it…has a transfer switch in it.

Unless you are actually bidding on an item, you will not see the last bid if it sells. Pice hasn’t updated since .42

Supposedly 150 psi but using the coach air is easy as I have front and rear outlets.

Decided to remove and inspect my aux compressor from behind the front axle because it took for ever to build pressure and it’s very noisy. All of the inside is black due to poor filtering of the air and the cylinder is scored badly. Honed it and sanded the lip of the piston. Still just as noisy and I’ve already mounted another compressor up front next to the generator. Has to be a better location and it’s a lot quicker than the Power Gear.

I would start at the steering column switches.

Length of the door is the important thing, not which year.

Please post what it sells for. I see it’s currently at $15K but the insurance company has a reserve price on it.

Both front and rear?

Guess I’m going to have to think about the lower pressure???

Having owned a 04 Dynasty for 14 years… sold to our daughter so 19 years, it’s a great rig on the good handling S-10 chassis. Should have the adjustable TRW steering box. Looks to be a 40PBDD with a ISM (good engine)…needs both batteries to be the same age. Only one LR slide is a plus as you have a bigger Girrard awning and the bays are easier to access. I would not worry about repainting the black as it’s strictly cosmetic and will come back if you repaint. I would definitely replace the No Cool fire bomb with a residential. A 21 Whirlpool only requires an inch more height while a Samsung requires 7”. A diesel Onan is only good for 20,000+ hours and the chassis should go 500K. Not a deal breaker but the window at the head of the bed will be cold in ID. Not having the house multiple system is a plus… hard to beat rocker switches.

Something about “Happy Wife” moved adjusting the door to todays project. She was having problems pulling on the outside handle enough to open it. While the video below is good, I’m surprised he only adjusts the 2 nuts at the latches… there’s a 3rd adjustment that was more important in my situation… the 2 nuts (in the video) only needed half a turn…not much. The 3rd adjustment is just below the handle but you still have to loosen the door’s inner lining to get to it. Item 13 is what lets you shorten the rod but it’s not a turnbuckle (no lefthand thread) so you have to take one end loose to turn CW. Mine took 2 turns so both rods moved immediately when pulling on the handle. I can now open with one finger. Make sure you look at which way the black screen door latch points. Hate to admit it took me awhile to turn it around so it pulls the screen door with the main door. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=D6-SFexjNuU

Tom, thanks for the additional info…guess I assume too much. Hope the pain gets better soon.

Read the above twice and still scratching my head. In the summer we dry camp a fair amount and only got 10 years out of Interstate 31 starting and AGM house batteries in our 04 Dynasty with BIRD and BigBoy… yes, had to clean the contacts every 4-5 years. Had to change the battery type in the Magnum to AGM2 instead of flooded.

On a cool, damp morning you should be able to see where’s the bracing