Ivylog

Interesting that the flooded absorption voltage of 14.6 is higher than any other battery type other than custom.

15 years ago when I went to AGMs my research favored the AGM2 setting… don’t remember the difference and I only got 10 years out of them, dry camping most summers. Recently went to Lithiums I’d assemble/built for $2/AH and the AGM2 setting only charges them to 99.8%. Biggest problem is that setting won’t start charging until they are down to 40%…thinks they are fully charged until 13.0V. The best reason to go Lithium is for dry camping and the increased cycles they are capably of plus like AGM, no corrosion and mount in any orientation. Instead of spending $200 RC-50L (Lithium) I’d buy an additional 100 amp charger that can be set to 14.6V. This will decrease your generator run time (AGM or Lithium) and let you start recharging sooner. I power mine off the block heater outlet.

You have an additional 12V fuse panel inside your rig. Sometimes in the bathroom or next to your 120V panels. In addition to the Ahot and refer, it should have a fuse for your Tstats. It is separate from the salesman circuit… powered straight from the house batteries. You can use your pliers to jumper the solenoids to see if you have lights.

As long as the key is on, yes tapping the foot switch turns them on. Not sure why you think that’s not legal??? I’ve ordered a small red indicator led light that will come on too…will probably mount it at the bottom of the dash.

I did measure the amps these draw… a little less than 4 amps for the pair. They also appeared to have the beam pattern as pictured in blue when I tested them on the front of my SUV.

OK, I screwed a old style foot switch to a wooden block glued to the floor. Powered it with a 12V that’s only on when the key is on. Ran a single wire through the rubber boot at the bottom of the steering column to the left light. Loosen a adel clamp on the firewall and put the ground wire under it. Ran 2 wires to the light on the right.

Sorry headlights seem to be the norm. I installed led bulbs knowing they wouldn’t increase the sight distance… wanted to decrease the amps through the VIP controller. Experimented with various led spotlights and the cheapest one were definitely the best plus they are adjustable in all 3 axis… needed for mounting on the curved front cap. Mounted them next to the mirror mounts at the max legal height of 55”… second and third pictures. 4th picture is OEM high beams… you can see the neighbors landscape light too. 5th the new spot lights and the center of its beam is 6” lower then the high beams.

With the engine running do you have 12V to the small wires on the solenoid…energized? Where do the small wires go? Doubt you have a BIRD.

Until I recently went to Lithiums, I used 12V AGMs mainly for the no corrosion. 6V golf cart batteries are the cheapest option. Unless you dry camp a lot, I would go with 2 good 12V deep cycle.

Haven’t raised my tag in 10+ years except to change the tires. Very little difference in turning radius and our tires age out before they wear out. Standing next to the tag, do you hear a air leak? If so, it’s like a blown rubber diaphragm in the raise cylinder… easy to replace.

The primary filter is on the suction side of the lift pump…might syphon some fuel out with the filter off.

Bob, what rig is having this problem…apparently it’s not your 09????? I’ll assume you tried unlocking from the keypad beside the bed??? When the wife pushes the unlocked button, the top multiplex relay in the closet… just below the 12 V fuse board lights up. I would make sure it lights up like pictured and that all the fuses are good on it.

Looks like the fitting is leaking where it threads into the tank. Doubt you can get a full turn so remove the airlines… push in on the ring, remove fitting, put Teflon tape on threads, and put back in.

I built my own using a 1.5” air cylinder I had… no regulation of air pressure needed once you bleed the boost off by pressing the pedal a couple of times. Biggest expense was the airlines and fittings for coach and toad. Sorry, can’t find a picture and it’s 600 miles away.

NO way would I accept deep cycle batteries… you want starting batteries with only a CCA rating. 15 amps is not going to overpower (hurt) 2 batteries. Maintenance free are not… under the hard plastic top are caps for each cell. I add water to my starting batteries every 4-5 years.

Finally finished up my two 280AH Lithium batteries…used plastic strapping to band the cells together and then a wooden box making it one unit that will fit where I removed 8 AGM batteries. Already built 600 AH 2 years ago so 1160 AH. Did a 2 day test run at the Tampa Super RV show and the only issue using the AGM2 setting was until I drew them down to 40%, the charger thought they were fully charged… wouldn’t start charging. I do have an additional 100A charger that will. While my box is not pretty, it’s a good fit in the compartment.

Jim, it’s kind of hard to upgrade from a 600 HP Signature, but a Newell 2020P will do it. Congrats and getting even further into the woods.

Agree more pictures needed. My guess is it’s a support for a basement bay… jack it back up, weld and then plate it. I’ve been banned “ForEver” on IRV2… criticized a Mod during Covid because his signature was political after he said I’d been political…. No sense of humor. Did me a favor as I was spending too much time on there.

Ray is correct that it’s a TRW with the adjusting screw and the Pitman arm clamps on. That small of a leak I would not worry about… keeps things from rusting.

I can pickup the PPs signals on my toad from 100’ away. Try mounting the monitor so it’s antennae is in the side window.

That’s what I’d do BUT you need to weld a doubler around the new end.

Don’t take me wrong, I am sorry about what’s happened to you… changing rigs is a lot of work even if side by side. I lucked out and bought a early 08 rig… not knowing about the Konsberg issues. Granted not everyone knows what a disaster a Konsberg coach can be… you’re not the only one with a boat anchor, but at least you’re going to get paid…lucked out. You’d almost have to give me one for what the parts are worth. Guess you could buy a big wrecker and tow it everywhere instead of parting it out. It would make a nice home on a permanent site… sell the drivetrain and generator.

I would say you’ve lucked out.

Those outlets are powered through the inverter with 2 pin breakers on the side… one for the microwave and other for your problem . We’re you running a heater?

When you have unlimited money, replace every 7 years. In the real world, if it’s not broke, leave it alone.