Ivylog

X3 on in gear… 04 Dynasty & 08 Navigator.

Yes, at the bottom of the steering column and agree a minor correction isn’t enough to worry about. NOW, if the whelk was more than 90 degrees off… yes it needs to be corrected some other way.

Only one end of the drag link is adjustable requiring removing the pressed fit tapered 3/4” bolt…obviously you’ve never tried to remove one that big. Also is one turn at a time enough or to much? Takes less than 5 minutes to remove the 1/4” bolt on the Ujoint to center.

Actually they know more about it and as David explained above, there’s only one tie rod. Yes, IFS or rack and pinion suspensions have 2 so the toe can be set with the wheel centered but not with just one. Taking a pall joint out (not that easy or accurate) will usually damage the rubber boot plus you have to put it back in hoping you turned it the correct amount. Moving a steering wheel from 10 or 2 hasn’t changed the gear box center enough to worry about.

OH, the good old days when Monaco would fix one item for free at a rally.

Scrape lumber screwed and glued.

I’m of the “oil is cheap” school so put a diaper around the end to catch it. I would try putting repeatedly, Lucas transmission seal fluid on the ram at the seal. I would put the remainder in the in the hydraulic reservoir.

If you mean the same size in all positions, in 09 the Signature came with 315s on the front and 295s on the rear. Once I needed to replace my 295s I went to 315 front and 11R on the rear. I ran 315s on our 04 Dynasty for 8+ years and I’m at 3 years on our 08 Nav. My research leads to the 8.25” rim can be overloaded if you put more than 115 psi in a 315 used as a single. IF you needed that much weight carrying you’d be overloading the front axle too.

Strange as there’s plenty of room on our 45’ 08 Nav. They were tight on our 42’ 04 Dynasty

Corrosion around the studs is not reason to replace your rims which are 8.25”. Clean the corrosion off and spray with the below… good on corrosion everywhere. If your Dynasty is 45’, there’s plenty of room to go to 315s on the stock 8.25” rims on the front, reducing the need psi by -10.

Not talking tire pressures… ran 04 Dynasty at 45 but I was heavy on the back. Have to run my 08 Navigator at 50, again heavy on the rear. Picture is probably OEM gauge on the 08… goes to 160. I’ve read a lot of threads on other forms and 40 psi is the norm for the tag’s airbags.

Brett, I originally thought about offering to pay the $10 for you to weigh and seriously I hope you do and I’ll happily pay…I think it’s that important. In 09 the 650 Sig’s hitch was uprated to 15,000 lbs provided you didn’t lift the tag axle. From my research, nothing was changed on the hitch…it’s that well designed on all the S-10 chassis. I’ve been lifting 1800 lbs on it for 17 years.

Had similar on our 04 Dynasty and changing filters didn’t help plus it was all of the time above 45 mph. Replaced lift pump before I learned it only runs for 30 seconds to aid in starting…didn’t fix the problem. Over the weekend found the troubleshooting guide for the code: 1) change the fuel filters… done. 2) check for air in the fuel. Bought 6” of clearance plastic tubing. Installed before 2nd filter and could see small bubbles in the fuel. Because of a big change in temperature, the big fuel hose at the tank (which was very tight) let air in. Put back on, not near as tight.. bubbles were gone and problem solved.

For a 06 Sig I would increase to 40 without much tongue weight on the hitch… tow bar only. Fortunately you have a 23K drive axle (at 30 you are likely over 20K) and 40 will decrease porpoising. In my opinion, the only way to know for sure is to weigh, as you might have guessed.

I’m impressed as I have over 125K miles behind the wheel of a S-10 chassis and doubt I could set pressures by the feel. Why pay $10 to weigh… ignorance is bliss. At 60 psi in my tag’s airbags, it weighs 10,500. I wonder how much over its 12K rating it’s at with 90 psi??? No problem, I can feel it’s OK.

My tire only have 78% Nitrogen in them and a 10-15% increase in psi is normal on most days. Will see slightly more when it’s really cold when you start and if it’s a really hot day. Most of my trips start with the temperature outside in the 70s and I do not adjust the psi again even though the temp some mornings might be 50 or 80. I do put +5 over the the chart as I’ll still go with it 25 mph crosswind. If I was starting a trip with it really cold out (going to be warmer) I’d only inflate to the chart psi. Once I get south I’ll have my +5 psi.

Congrats and it’s a great coach having had a 04 Dynasty for 14 years.

Panel snaps on…just pull it off.

Should have a access panel on the left side of the cabinet.

Pull the inside covering away (below the window) as you pry it away from the edge of the door.

And you can feel that difference on the rear of the MH? I’m running 315s on the front where I can feel the difference over a 295 at 10+ psi. OH, never mind.., you win!

While Moxy’s psi happened to be close, they have little similarity to your 06 Dynasty. His 01, first year for a tag on a Dynasty with only 275/80/22.5 tires plus it weighs a fair amount less than a 06 Dynasty with 4 slides. Do a EBay search for Hankook (or any other brand) 295/80/22.5 tires and then Hankook 11R22.5. Yes, the 11R is less expensive than a 295 but good luck finding a 295 on the road when you need one. The only reason to run 295s on the rear is because they are the same size as the front but not necessarily for the amount of weight on the rear axles, unlike the front. I wonder how many miles the previous owner successfully put on the 11Rs on the back of the rig? I’ve put over 50K miles. As posted, you should be able to get $100+ for the takeoffs, especially the 11Rs, probably the most common truck tire. There’s a lot of nothing between SLC and Flagler Beach…good luck getting a tire installed, assuming it didn’t destroy anything important, in the middle of nowhere and at a reasonable price. Good Luck as it looks like you’d already made up your mind before posting. The least I’d do is 2 new on the front as a Big Bang on the back is not near as exciting as one up front. Also the 11R22.5 Goodyears on the rear are like not the same as the Badyears on MHs.

I would go to two 12V AGM batteries, replacing what you have to start… may be all the AH you need. IF you decide you need more AH then add them to the box in your picture. You can add up to 3 more 100W solar panels to the one you already have using the current 30 amp controller. No it’s not very efficient, but good enough for what you’re trying to do.

Didn’t answer how many days dry camping you expect to do??? One fallacy of solar, unless you are FTime, is in the summer I search out shade and elevation so I do not need to run the AC to keep cool. Instead of getting 70+ amps charging from my 1000W of solar ( only at noon with the panels tilted) I’ll only get 15-20 amps in the shade at high noon. This is not enough to keep up with our power needs and why my solar is more a feel good situation than actually being cost effective.

It’s on the grey tank, as the labels implies. My labels are above the valve and reversed. Nozzles are on passenger side and on the back side of the tank on my rigs. After removing the screws that hold the nozzle on the tank, you can unscrew it without cutting the plex water line.