Ivylog

The inner drum in the Arister washer got so loose it would barely spin, a terminal problem… not repairable. Decided on a Samsung replacement which got delivered yesterday but the in “home” delivery doesn’t include RVs by 2 strong guys. Tried to shame them into doing it as the DW and I had replaced a Splendide in our 04 Dynasty by ourselves…nope! If you have to replace , there’s a trick I came up with to make it easier. The hardest part is getting it out the door and holding on to the top is nearly impossible. By putting a strap around the machine near the top (machine goes out the door on its side, bottom first) you can pick it up without being on your knees and smashing your fingers underneath it. Fortunately Monaco’s have a large door, in the closet, that lets you get to the back of the machines… combo units have a cutout at the back of the shelf above it. Had to move the dryer ahead to get to the water valves and the screw holding the electric cord. New hoses didn’t have a 90 on one end so had to reuse the old ones.

Like the above, our 200 in 14 years provided enough hot water for 2 back to back showers. Only time I used the diesel is when dry camping letting me service it every 4-5 years.

Non-fixable loose drum required replacing the working washer. Removed, without cutting, everything other than the water valves. Too good to throw away so $100 plus shipping.

Yes, but his memory must be going south. The problem was not the control board. That’s been my issues too although this time the cam had slid sideways. Hopefully bending a metal arm will keep it in place.

Rick, I’m sure we all thank you for taking the time for your good, long posts. I might have 24 hours/year of below freezing temps…not enough to spend any money on. I’ve been using a switch to disable by BigBoy (house battery charging) for years getting 10 years out of the AGMs in a previous DP. Current rig is still using some AGMs …I disconnect/isolate the Lithiums and store at 50% while snowbirding for 4 months in SE Fla. Yes, the panels along the rail can be flat or tilted the opposite direction… picture below.

I’m a horse is headed to the barn person too… three 12+ hours days are not a problem.

Where to begin from my perspective, also a EE but never worked in that area other than aviation electronics years ago. I would not draw Lithiums down to 0 SOC.. 10% left in them will increase the cycles/life. You can discharge Lithiums below freezing, but don’t charge them. IF I need to charge them I’ll put a 120V heater in the compartment to get them above freezing. Yes a charger that only has a AGM setting will work, but will only charge to approx 90%… same as a alternator. Instead of a $$ dc-dc charge controller, I added a $5 timer to the BigBoy control wire so I can cycle the alternator’s output on-off. I added a remote temp probe on the alternator to get a baseline on its operating temperature. Haven’t finalized what % of the time to let alternator charge. 9 months ago I built 600AH of Lithiums for $1200 plus 10 hours of my time…$2/AH. In October I ordered 8- 280 AH cells for $375 which would make my DIY price less than $1/AH. They have yet to arrive and after filing a dispute with Ali Express, they have refunded my $375. With the current shipping delays, they may still arrive at which point I’ll pay for them. Below is another to good to be true…a 200AH Lithium battery for $230 but March delivery. There are plenty of 200AH Lithiums on Amazon for $650 delivery in 10 days. Wait 6 months and no telling what the price will be. I installed 1000W of solar on my 08 Navigator with a 80 A mppt controller for $1200 so topping off will be possible on a sunny day.

Hopefully this is not a annual thing although I learned a lot about its operation last year with same problem. The control board has 15 led lights across the top and blinking #11 (fault codes can be found in the manual) means faulty micro switch… same fault as last year which required replacing one of the 2 switches on the flush mechanism. Post on that repair here: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/dometic-electric-opus-toilet-won-t-close-520280.html This time the cam that activates the micro switches had moved so they were not being activated. There is a arm that’s supposed to hold the cam in place and by holding against the base and bending the arm, hopefully it will stay in place. Put the toilet back in place and couldn’t get the ball valve to move while trying different positions on the service switch. Decided to manually move the arm that moves the ball valve… have a hole on side of the toilet so able to move without moving the entire toilet. Fortunately some combination of trying to flush and service switch got it to work. Sometimes about happy wife!

I’ll add that once I get West, I’m game for about any road as long as it’s not gravel for very long… OK, Taylor Park to Cottonwood Pass was a long gravel road (it’s now paved) but shortest way to Leadville by 75 miles.

Sorry, but having been across Kansas too many times (25+) and with only one good way to see it…from 30,000’ and with nothing in the middle of the country I want to see again, I still do the 1500 miles to CO in 2 days. Helps that the S-10 chassis is a great handling rig with a big fuel tank as I can average 62 mph driving 66…12 hours/day and have no plans to stop doing it this way at 77. IF (hasn’t happened yet) I get tired or sleepy, I’ll stop and take a nap as we do not make reservations. Last summer headed West, I decided to get off the interstate in Paducah, KY…everyone says it’s better off the Interstates. What a mistake as I’m surprised I still have a driver’s mirror.. over width load on a narrow 2 lane road with a 6” drop off… no shoulder. Scrubbed the R front tire on a narrow bridge because a 18 wheeler wanted all of his half of the road and some of mine. OH, and having the windshield shake when meeting one on a 2 lane with a 130mph closing speed, 3’ apart… is that safer than the Interstates? 2x2 and 2 nights would be 15 days to CO… you’ve got to be kidding although my personal best is 4 miles in a day. Rant over!

OP, I have multiplex boards behind the front TV, not just in the BR closet.

SAE Standard specifies the major dimensions and tolerances for all Engine Flywheel Housings and the Mating Transmission Housing Flanges. This includes starters and their mounting bolts… can’t put it on wrong.

Sorry should have been clearer…Yes, it’s the same for a DD60. And yes, prices are all over the place for it. I went with the $130 one on EBay.

I do not find any difference in a -4440 or -4430 as either is being used on the same engine I went through much the same for my ISX, even not putting on a -4440 because of the fewer teeth. Through more research, the teeth on a Denso are off center…must be mounted with the motor down. I finally put the -4440 on early this year when the Delco would barely turn it over. Hardest part was getting the bolt behind the starter out with a 18” extension negating a impact getting it out, unlike the others. The Denso would start my ISX with just one of my 3 batteries where the Delco required all 3 plus the boost. .

The front center 12V windshield blackout shade string broke SO today I decided to fix it. Pry the 2 holding clips loose dropping the entire shade down, mark one of the 2 12V wires with fingernail polish (polarity sensitive) and figure out how it works. The yellow plastic tubes slide on the aluminum drive tube. String broke at the bottom so still enough to fix. Slid the alum tube out of the yellow tube for the broken string. How to pulling the string back through the holes in the shade was the biggest issue as I didn’t have a small diameter wire to pull it back in place. Tried making one out of twisting a small electric wire unsuccessfully (2nd picture). Finally realized by taking the outer coverings off a coax cable (3rd picture) I had my solid wire. Bent the end 180 and hooked over the string 4” from the end…pulled it through the multiple holes easily. Tied a small nut around the end of the string, equalized the lengths of the 2 strings, slid the alum tube back into the yellow tube, and reinstalled. Works like it should… hope this helps someone else fix or equalize theirs.

Controlled by the multiplex system and one of the many boards in the BR closet…good luck. I would start by unplugging the cable on the back of the keypad and back in… might fix and easy enough to do. Next step is to turn the 12V power off to the multiplex system which will re-boot the system…same as your computer as this system is computer controlled. Have to disconnect the solar too, not just pushing the salesman switch.

Guess in NE you need one although cycling the key a second time should heat the air enough to start. I use the outlet to power an additional 100 A battery charger. They make external heaters but not sure how well they will work with the 40’ long heater hoses?

Like you, wanted to save the drawer below. I thought I'd found one that would fit perfectly in the 1200 hole...ended up 1/2" to tall BUT it's not counter depth...had to take the driver's window out. Not that bad a job and a forklift helps to get it in. DW and I did it ourselves without removing the drivers seat.Whirlpool 21 top freezer... WRT311FZDB/black, white, SS. It's now made in a side by side WRS321SDHZ that is 66 5/8" high. Whirlpool WRS321SDH is black.Here is my DIY install...unfortunately some of the pictures are no longer available. https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/f...print/true.cfmHere is more info on the side/sidehttps://www.whirlpool.com/kitchen/re...rs321sdhz.htmlFor those worried about boondocking with a residential...This EnergyStar Whirpool 21 CuFt Refer has a energy guide of $44/year and 410 kWh/year or 1,123 W/day or 94 AmpsHours/day... So out of my 500 AH battery bank I can go 2+ days before getting to 50% and needing to recharge. 2 extra batteries are enough. $44/year is 12 cents a day... It's amazing how energy efficient they have gotten these things.I have comfirmed the above with a KW meter...1.2 KW/day and it draws 8A DC measured before the PSW inverter...96 watts.

Nice looking Dynasty with a great floor plan. Like the N-S bed with the TV hung from the ceiling, did the same thing in our 04 Dynasty. The residential refer install looks good…did they upgrade the inverter or is it a Samsung? The Dynasty gives the most bang for the buck of the S-10 chassis plus it has the adjustable TRW box…great handling rig without any upgrades! Put 80K mikes on ours over 14 years.

I added a SilverLesf monitor that plugs into the OBD plug…only gives about 40+ readings.

The breaker the heater tripped is hard to find on the side of the inverter mounted on the ceiling of a basement bay. They are small round push to reset.

After having a foot switch on my 04 Dynasty, I added one to my 08 Navigator as it lets you coast. Before adding, I raised the Jake on/off switch up (didn’t put all the way back in) so it’s easy to feel. Unlike the Dynasty which shut the cruise off when pressed…I liked being able to tap it to disengage the cruise, this switch doesn’t.

I soldered on the back side a 2 plug connector bypassing the burnt plug. The board is only rated for 9 amps but it usually takes 10+ years before probably corrosion builds up and it overheats.

Wife sold her half of our 182RG to our so-in-law who recently upgraded to a glass panel… OH the learning curve. Even with a background in aviation electronics, amazing what all it will do, IF you can remember how. Did haul a Grob 109 motor glider in a 28’ enclosed trailer for several years.

I hope you have better luck with the led strips than I have. Multiple chips stop working and within less than 100 hours the remaining ones dim. Have replaced several used as night lights under bathroom cabinet. Instead of using a strip under the upper kitchen cabinets, I installed six 48 chip voltage regulated panels instead. Not as nice looking as a strip, but in 3 years, with a lot of use, every chip out of 576 are still working. Guarantee if I’d used a strip, that would not be true.