Ivylog

Try shutting the inverter off while on shore power… button on the display.

Why not hook up the chassis’s voltage wire and see how it goes?

For the cost of a trailer you can buy a powered motorcycle ramp and base plates for your PU. Your Exe won’t even know your PU is back there.

I recently replaced my headlight bulbs with LEDs…haven’t driven at night with them although I doubt they are all that much brighter. I didn’t measure the amps before or after…hard to get good help these days. Research says a LED headlight bulb draws 1/4ths the amps and easier to do than adding relays, which I’d bought but never got around to doing. My “opinion” is that over time, 8-10 years, the resistance builds up in the connection causing it to overheat. Cleaning the connection every couple of years might solve this problem???

Have read where a 500W inverter will run a Samsung because of the variable speed DC compressor. I added a 1000W PSW for my 21 Whirlpool…1000W because I also powered a Sat DVR receiver and the TV in the bedroom and on occasion, a 120V fan.

Ivan, can you post a picture of the main breaker panel? The hash marks, mean for me, not used.

Why have 2 outlets???

In 20 years we have NOT stayed put because of weather…yet. Did spin one evening in Amarillo ready to move, watching the local TV station track a tornado that crossed the interstate, 10 miles away. The Zoom Weather app let me shoot the gap between two very large, hot thunderstorms near North Platt, Nebraska one evening. We had 5 seconds of heavy rain, but clear sailing after that.

My understanding is that the ice maker is on the inverter (04 Dynasty was that way) so it would make ice going down the road while on propane. Takes fewer amps to harvest the ice than to power the heaters.

If you’re a amp counter. boondocker, a motor looses approx 10% efficiency powered by a MSW inverter. Instead of 8 amps DC (96 Watts) on a PSW inverter, a refrigerator on MSW power would draw 9 amps. Not that big a deal considering mine only runs 8-10 hours/day…a 10AH increase.

You’re mistaken. You’re not wrong.

Doubt a 03 Patriot has a 3012 inverter unless it replaced a 2012 MSW inverter that likely came in a 03 rig.

What about your 120V outlets and TV? If not, on the side of the inverter are 2, hard to find, push to reset breakers…one may be tripped. 120V motors do not run as efficiently on MSW power… often it’s the controller electronic that do not like the MSW. Samsung work well on MSW power because the compressor runs on DC current, not AC.

Wooden 6X6 won’t help for the front. Instead of metal posts 9” long, why not 12-13” to put in after raising the coach up?

$2400…I installed a 21 cuft Whirlpool ($450 scratch & dent) in my 04 Dynasty and it almost fit perfectly …1/2” to tall. Lowered the floor 3/4” and had to remove the driver’s window as it’s no counter depth. Created a separate batteries- 1000W inverter-100A charger-transfer switch to power it. Today they make it in a side by side for $1300.

My O4 Dynasty has it and the unit is mounted on the ceiling of the bay with the inverter.

I’ve done it a little differently than the above. I turn both water valves off and loosen the hoses, not removing. There should be a access panel in the back of the floor above the washer…hidden in the carpet. Like the above, I put the antifreeze in the drum but start the wash cycle for a couple minutes and then go to the spin for a couple minutes, as above.

Pretty sure since you may have a BigBoy relay, the solenoid is in there too, not up front.

There may be several solenoids that look the same. A 12V test light or meter will help in the troubleshooting. A 1402 needs 12V power for the control board.

I would start by checking the solenoid ^^^^ and it may be in the Rear R Box. The refrigerator not powering up bothers me unless it’s not a residential… NoCold requires 12V power.

Guess you could block after driving onto ramps (no need for ramps for the tag) for even more clearance but with the rig raised up and the blocked there’s a fair amount of room plus in some places by the axle you can almost sit up. Problem with ramps you still need to lower the rig once on he ramps to see how much clearance you really have…about 5” less.

No, they go side to side on top of each other for 18” (actually 16.5”) high. The picture is the ramps I built out of scrap 2X10 and some plywood. 3’ long down to 25”. The plywood helps to keep the 2X10s from splitting.

I’ve built 600AH 6 months ago for $1200. Have ordered 600AH of cells that will bring the price down to less than $600. …some have said “too go to be true” which I do not disagree with. With the current backlog of ships waiting to be unloaded, no telling when I’ll get the cells. The BMSs I ordered have arrived (shipped by air) and I really don’t need the cells before next June. Here is the link to the thread I started on this:

OK, I admit I’m frugal… I figured the ramps pictured above cost $200 for 8 2X12 10’ long plus they are fairly heavy. You also do not need 2X12 as your tire are not even 10” wide. A 10’ 6X6 costs $40 and each 40” section is manageable and 3 should fit under the hitch after you raise the coach up. With ramps you need to lower the coach down as that’s the clearance you are worried about. With blocks under the hitch the rig is not going to get any lower.