Ivylog

Actually I’ve had more interesting conversations with the car folks than the truckers, some who seem to resent us using the truck lanes. One of the few times I’ve used a truck stop, the truck finally moved ahead so I could fuel, but 5 minutes after I finished fueling, it sat there unoccupied. I can back up so I was able to go around it. “to those with something to prove”??? Interesting comment, probably aimed at me, so I did some math. 100,000+ miles over last 16 years so 15,000 gallons at only a 60cents savings is $9,000… it’s probably more $$$ so Thank you GasBuddy! No hits, no key scratches, and no one giving me the finger…. your mileage may vary.

Your inverter/charger is a smart 3 stage charger…not going to boil the water out of the house batteries. You need to confirm it also charges the engine batteries… pretty sure it should. Rarely do I disagree with Vito, but in my 04 Dynasty, all of the outlets (except washer/dryer) are powered through the inverter. One small electric heater will not pop the hard to find breakers on your inverter that feeds the outlets so it should be OK.

Exactly the same as the above post in our 04 Dynasty but 10 years ago. Put in a 21 Whirlpool and the 2nd charger puts out 100 amps reducing my generator time from 2 hours to 1-1.5. Did add extra batteries so the refer power is stand alone or can be combined to the house batteries. Best mod ever and should have done it sooner…bought into the no boondocking with a residential BS.

I don’t do either… park it and leave it until ready to go again.

No need to take your iron pills anymore. Having grown up on well water with a high iron content, it’s must be cosmetic as I’m still here decades later plus we’ve always drank the water out of our various RV’s tanks.

There isn’t an adjustment. It’s a spring in the air chamber on the drive axle. Agree it may be because there is to much travel…slack adjusters not adjusted correctly. I would take it back as you probably do not have full braking too. Doubt they left the T headed caging bolts in the air chamber as you wouldn’t have any rear brakes.

I’m surprised it doesn’t bother more that before the TSD card, you were paying 75 cents/gallon, or more, for the privilege of using a truck stop… my savings averaged over 75 cents over the last decade using GasBuddy. Within a mile of the Jax TA above, and a block off I-95, I could get fuel for $3.00…34 cents less than the TSD price and 82 cents less than the bend over price. Sorry but if the truck stop price was only 15 cents more I’d still go elsewhere as I refuse to reward their decades of gouging us…for me it’s not just about the savings.

Since I usually fuel in K City, currently on my route, the best MF is $3.03, TSD $3.14 and Sam’s $2.84 ($2.70 with 5% off)… not sure I’d get 5% off the MF price??? Picture below is what pulls up for the MF station and getting to it looks difficult. For 33 cents or 45 cents TSD ($67 savings) I’ll go to the Sam’s that I’ve used with their slow pumps although if not busy I’ll use 2 pumps.

Frank, the subject was blocking a S-10 up using wooden blocks under the hitch (not the receiver)… some said it wasn’t strong enough to hold the coach up…looks like it is.

Sorry but the opposite is true. If you increase the weight on the tag 1000 lbs, the drive decreases 1200 lbs and the steer increase 200 lbs on a 45’ rig. There is no fulcrum in the middle, it’s a arm and it’s on a 280” to 44” ratio …6/1 approx.

I made the mistake of not going residential sooner because we boondock often during the summer. A modern residential is very energy efficient…1.2 kw/day or 8 amps DC (less than 1amp AC) 40% of the time. I power a 21 cuft Whirlpool with a 1000W PSW but a Samsung will operate on a 750W MSW inverter (or your current inverter) and will come in the door by taking its doors off.

My 04 Dynasty Diamond 4 was well balanced so hopefully your 06 is too. Yes, it makes a difference if one side is 1000 lbs more than the other. I go +5 psi over the load table because I’ll travel with heavy crosswinds which shifts a lot of weight.

Must have been without lawyers involved. If your near Blairsville with your Exe, there’s a scale here where you can get one side off it so you can get 6 weights.

Don’t get me wrong, compared to what you’ve been paying for years, the TSD card is a great improvement. Pilot/FlyJ, Loves, TA did me a favor with their high prices… haven’t used In 13 years. GasBuddy has saved me thousands of dollars over the last decade while many have been hosed by them. The only vote I have is my wallet and I choose to not reward them now plus 90% of the time I can beat the TSD price by a substantial amount. Ben Franklin said $1 saved is $1 earned but today I have to earn $140 to have $100 to spend after all the taxes we pay today. That $75 savings above is actually over $100.

Mudflap requires getting a code and taking it in before pumping. “What's not to like? “ The price! I have a 2 mile limit out of the way for fuel and 5 mile for Passport America CGs. Currently the best TSD price on my usual route West is $3.14 before KCity. The Sam’s there (half a mile off my route, first picture) is $2.79 less 5%=$2.65. Using TSD $475 verse $400 at Sam’s…$75 savings and I didn’t have to wonder around looking for it…that’s what Google Maps is for. I do send the DW in to buy our $3 lunch while I’m fueling. I admit I like the challenge of putting my rig where many would not. If you can’t get into these fuel islands, how do you get into a CG site, even a pull through…2nd picture.

Haven’t bought fuel from Pilot/FlyJ in 13 years…ever since they became the same company. Maybe 1 in 10 fill ups I use the TSD card and have yet to use my $10 credit on Mudflap as I can find equal or better price using GassBudy plus additional 5% using my Sam’s credit card. Probably 7 in 10 I fill up at Sam’s as they usually have a better price than TSD or Mudflap. Yes, it takes longer to fill and run my card 4 times, but I clean the windows and do a walk around temping all tires and bearings. Like others, I take a picture of the pump when finished when using TSD…price has always been what the app showed it should be.

Propane smell is likely a leak at the regulator on the tank. ..recent thread on which regulator. Your diesel 10K generator is probably in need of a new fuel filter (cheapest place to start) but the electric fuel pump (Amazon has them) is also known to weaken and not supply enough fuel…10K should run at a constant speed.

I have AHot so heating isn’t a problem and about the only other option is some type of propane. I would look into Passport America 50% camping…that time of year you’re more likely to be able to use it.

Of the 6 western NPs we did in July, Zion was the only one very crowded. Crowds were not as bad this past summer, compared to 2020. By November you shouldn’t have any problems other than the cold, but probably the best time for Moab. We are no reservations types staying mainly in Public CGs but many of them will be closed by November. Plenty of dispersed sites that never close. I would get the apps BoonDocking and FreeRoam-boondocking.

Should have proof read my psi recommendations… 70 for the tag (not 60) which is the minimum to keep the tire on the rim. Doubt your drive will be over 21,000 lbs, even when loaded for travel so 85 until you weigh loaded. Agree you need to find someplace where you can weigh each side… in the early years of adding slides many had 1000+ heavier on the side with the slides.

01 is only the second year of the Exe having a tag… just starting to need one as the length increased over 40’, slides were added, and bigger engines. By 04 the front axle had gone from 13,000 to 15,160. In 07 the tag went from 10K to 12K. Around 06 the fuel tank was moved from just behind the front axle to help its overloading. The 09 Signature (Exe had been discontinued) came with 8 315 tires. I’m running 315 on the front and 11R on the rear of my 08 Navigator. You probably have 9,000+ lbs of CCC…fuel, water, and all your stuff…for F Time that can be 5-6,000 lbs. Weighing before your loaded up, ready to travel isn’t going to tell you much. My educated guess for your psi is 100 front, 85 drive and 60 tag until you weigh. Most use 40 in the tag regulator but I’d start with 35. Having run 315s on 8.25” rims for 10+ years, the issue is a 8.25” rim is only rated for 7600 lbs. A 315 as a dual is not derated because at max psi (120 psi) it is NOT exceeding 7600 lbs... I kept reading the footnotes on derating. Today fewer manufacturers list a 8.25” rim for a 315... more lawyers have gotten involved

I see in another post you’re probably near Atlanta Commercial Tire… I’ve gotten good prices from them and you could check the dates codes before buying. While I pick the tires up, they have guys that will change the tires in their parking lot. I would put new 295/80 on the front and maybe move the steer to the tag (easier to remove the tire than polish the rims). A 11R is slightly taller than a 275/80 so at 60 mph you’d actually be going 62. 315 may be overkill for your 01 Dynasty, but not for my 08 Navigator. -20 psi is not slightly less. PS: You’d have to pay me to use G670s.

Thanks, I missed that correction.

Bill, would help if you included your 01 Dynasty 40’? in your signature. Pretty sure the OP knows what size tires he has plus the brochure for a 01 Exe says 295/80. 01 Dynasty calls for 295/75???

Not sure what 11R you are looking at as the ones I’m using have a slightly higher load rating than a 278/80…5840 at 105 instead of 5750 at 105. Discussion was the OP’s 01 Exe with 6 295s on the rear, not 275s on a non tag coach. Yes, I have to increase the psi by 12 in the 11Rs over a 295, but when you start at 90, 102’s ride is not noticeable on the rear. PS: already running 315s on the front…another reason to not use 295s on the rear. My drive axle is over 22K.