Ivylog

A 1000+ lbs hanging off the rear makes a BIG difference… probably go to 50 psi and then weigh.

40 psi in the tag’s airbags is a good starting point but on the first year of a Dynasty with a tag axle, I doubt you need that much.

This summer I ran a combination of AGM & Lithiums house batteries… built the Lithiums sooner than I really needed as the AGMs still have several years of life left in them. With the recent drop in cell prices I should have waited, never thing you could build a 12V Lithium for $1/AH. You can charge a lithium to 90% of capacity with the chargers that are in our motorhomes. I have my doubts that you need a DC to DC limiting device because the wire from your alternator isn’t capable of passing more amps than what the alternator can take. I already run the generator in the morning before leaving after dry camping so that the alternator doesn’t have to charge the batteries as much. I’ve already installed a remote sensing temperature probe on my alternator to get a baseline of what is normal for it so when I start charging Lithiums with it, I’ll have a better idea if I really have a problem.

I would think a Cummins place would have cameras.

For half the money I would buy a pulse maintainer 3 stage charger. Does it desulfate a battery??? The one I have seems to bring back to life a battery that is very low on charge BUT with nothing to compare it against, who really knows. You should have a equalization cycle in your charger and rice a year it’s not a bad idea to let it charge your batteries at a higher voltage… not AGMs.

The price of Lithium cells (build your own batteries) has come way way down in the last couple months…BUT the current backlog of container ships may require waiting on them for months. I recently ordered 8 280AH cells … enough cells to make 2 batteries for a total of 560AH. Including a basic BMS and probably 10 hours of my time the cost will be $1/AH, about the price of lead acid golf cart batteries. The Lithiums should last 5X and you can use 90+% of their AHs instead if 50%. Battle Born wants $7+/AH. It’s really not that hard to build…plenty of videos on how. 6 months ago I thought I’d done well building 600AH of batteries for $2/AH…$1200 instead of Bend over Born’s $4800 price. Yes, you cannot charge Lithiums when frozen…can still discharge them. Charging takes a slightly higher voltage but a AGM setting will do the job.

20 years ago I made the mistake of believing the BS of 36’ max for public campgrounds… Cost me a lot of money upgrading and now we’re finally at 45’ because they don’t make a 50’. Out West we dry/public camp 5-6 days/week without problems finding sites and this is without reservations, even the last 2 summers that have been busier than normal. $100K for a 06 Sig is a really good deal… I thought I had done well at $110K for a 06 Navigator for my daughter six months ago. There are lots of posts on here about the poor handling of the non-tag Monaco motorhomes so do yourself a favor and go big and get it over with.

By 2004, the big S-10 chassis Monacos, HRs, & Beavers we’re all made on the same assembly line… biggest difference was Beavers got Cat engines. I have never seen a Big Monaco, et all, with basement air…they have 3 roof heat pumps plus AquaHot. William a budget would help.

If you read the OP’s first post carefully, he included Country Coach (last made in 2009) in what he was looking for. He’s not looking for new and hopefully something 08 or older… in the $200K max range. PS: didn’t know you could get a new Newell for only $1.5 million as a friend paid $1.3 11 years ago for one… got to love inflation.

Should be a small lever on the side of the bottom cushion…actually 2 as othe reclines the seat.

Without a budget and usage, it’s hard to answer your question. Since Newell’s bring a premium my guess is a $200K budget. Took me 3 rigs to find what works for us as half timers… 04 Dynasty 42’ with 4 slides and thought we’d age out before it did. Son wanted it (still in the family) and knew I wanted another S-10 chassis (10 airbags & tag axle) because of the good handling and 8000lbs of CCC. Not worried about it being a orphan as others than the fiberglass front/rear caps, Monaco didn’t actually make much else. OK, they made the chassis but from parts still available that rarely need replacing. Not a fan of IFS as there’s 15 more moving parts than a solid front axle plus a S-10 chassis doesn’t need handling improvements that a IFS is supposed to increase. Agree you do not want a 07 or newer engine, BUT my 08 HR Navigator has a 06 engine as Monaco bought a bunch of extra 06 engines. EGR started on engines built after 10/2003, but it’s fairly easy to delete…so I’ve been told. DPF (regenerating exhaust filters) started in 07 and give a fair amount of trouble. I’ve said for years the perfect coach is a 06 Monaco Executive or Signature with a DD60 engine…recently helped our daughter buy a 06 HR Navigator with a DD60 engine. They had a successful trip out West this past summer without any problems… had a few small items that needed fixing before they left.

Did you see black smoke before it gave up…excess fuel for the amount of air/boost. Your injection pump has a air pressure sensor that controls the amount of fuel…limits the amount of fuel if not enough air. Like Woody ^^^ I would consult another shop (tell them what’s supposedly has happened) and get another opinion as what Cummins has told you doesn’t add up.

I have good luck finding things on EBay…. either 1/4” Pipe thread for $11 or 1/8” for $9.45. On at 90 and off at 120. Sorry but I haven’t figured out how to post a link to the item with my phone.

Found angled ones on EBay but holes are 5.5” on center…same price as ones out of stock on Amazon. For as little as they got used I would not worry if they were not LED.

And make sure everything is ready to go, including the roof antennas.

On a system that works well, the compressor doesn’t run all the time as there is a frost sensor in the evaporator that keeps the fins from icing up by shutting off the 12V to the compressor. From my experience it shuts the compressor off more than necessary, not just on my MH. On my air conditioned equipment I pull 50% of the cap tube (sensor) out of the evaporator coils so the compressor doesn’t shut off as often. Instead of on for 30 seconds and off for 30, it’s on for 45 and off for 15 increasing the cooling substantially. On my MHs I rarely have to run the generator/ACs as I completely bypass this sensor by plugging the two wires into a 15A fuse so the compressor does run all the time. Out West it usually takes 6+ hours before enough ice forms that the air volume starts to decrease while running the fan on high. In the East (higher humidity) I have to shut off the extra switch I added to the 12V compressor circuit every couple hours (for 15 minutes) to defrost the evaporator fins…you still get cold air as it melts the ice. On my 08 Navigator I had one crimp at the fill port that was not crimped enough… tried a portable crimper unsuccessfully and finally stopped the leak by adding 2 small exhaust C clamps over the crimped area after splitting the sleeve in 3 areas with a cutoff disk.

Guess I’m 16 years later on changing the fluid...will be 17 next year.I did the filters probably 8 years ago on the 04 Dynasty and I do check the level, look at, and smell the oil on the stick occasionally.

Many years ago at a rally the best explanation of our dash gauges was it’s an entertainment center… the reason I put in a Silverleaf system. Our fuel gauges seem to get less accurate with time. I reset my odometers and mpg at each fillip. The bottom of the short nipples on my 150 gallon tank are below the top of the tank by 1” or more. The vent must be on the driver’s side as I can lean away and put 15 more gallons in without it putting fuel… unlike the passenger side. The fuel pickup is on the passenger side and having run out within sight of the station, I leaned the rig to the right and primed 4 times (2 minutes) so it cranked up and got me to the pump…put 160 gallons in my 150 tank. I do not lean and fill if I’m headed to a CG as there’s very little air in the tank and the ground is usually colder than the air…fuel could warm and expand onto the ground. Like 96 EVO ^^^, I don’t buy into you’ll get more crap if you run the tank down to near empty. The pickup is very close to the bottom of the tank and it’s cut at a 45 degree angle. It’s always getting the fuel from the bottom 1” of the tank. Only time I don’t put in 130+ gallons is when I top off near home when it will sit for several months. I usually get 30,000 miles out of the primary fuel filter and 40,000 on the secondary… no I’m not into annual much of anything. Your mileage may be different.

Chargerman, I’ve decided it’s not worth the effort.

Source Engineering has “Comfort Ride Valve Kit” that restricts air out of the airbags helping to reduce roll. A lot easier to install than a roll bar. Newer rigs have “ping tanks” that help to decrease roll by increasing the volume of air. No offense to short wheelbase rigs BUT their better turning radius hurts their straight line control compared to longer rigs.

I disconnected the S-T-+ until I could make it adjustable on the fly. Made driving in crosswinds tiring having to hold the steering wheel off center against it. One reason I’ll always own a S-10 chassis is the rock solid handling that makes 12+ hour days a pleasure. A steering stabilizer seems to help the most on shorter rigs because it makes it harder to oversteer it but that’s not going to help with gusty wins where the sooner you react, the less you have to. New tires on the rear can make for squirrley handling until they get broken end… I didn’t believe this until it happened to my 98 Beaver, especially if they are overinflated for the weight.

One of the few advantages of the house multiplex system.

“Cat eye” indicates hopefully you left off the power to the ECM… a communication error.

I’ve helped enough people adjust their tag pressure to know what happens so I’ll let you go to a scale and see what happens when you increase the tag’s pressure. “Just like a teeter totter.” is where the fulcrum in the middle came from. I do like someone who doubles down.

A 04 Cheetah probably has a BIRD and BigBoy boost solenoid (located in the RRB) that automatically connects the two. The contacts in the BigBoy are known for corroding and not connecting them together…fairly easy to clean. Easy enough to put a jumper on the 2 large lugs on it.