Ivylog

Common problem and easiest solution is to run a new ground wire to the metal instrument case.

I’d put a jumper wire between the 2 battery banks.

One easy test I do on my starting batteries is to disconnect them and see if each one (I have 3) will start my ISX. Helps that I have a Denso starter. One battery (1 of 2) would start my ISL 400 without a Denso.

Doubt a cigarette lighter outlet in the dash is powered by the house batteries

Rules out a bad ground. There may be a inline fuse… Good Luck finding it.

Her problem is not 120V. GN ^^^ Covered where to start. I would add try plugging something else that works in.

A properly working air dryer should result in no water in the system and NO need to do anything different for cold weather operations. I would have drained the water and replaced the air dryer filter BUT I’m not into doing much of anything some say we should do annually.

Having spent war too much money on a NoCold 1200, no way would I put one in as the coils are the same size as the smaller 9 cuft units. I finally replaced mine with a 31cuft Whirlpool resulting in the best mod EVER!! Don’t know enough about a Dometic but it can’t be worse than a 1200. Good luck. Yes, you can lay them on their sides… turning a 1200 upside down was one repair method although tapping on the coils did the same thing. The roof vent is 3’ long so I doubt it makes any difference which side the flue is on.

Can’t copy-paste a EBay link but the below lists having 2. for$335.

Not sure I’d give the clock spring 99%. I wonder how much money was saved hiding the SM211 controller in the dash? Posting the following troubleshooting guide which has pulling the cover off…no 5mm bolts. It also says 9amps max for the headlights. https://www.imminet.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/01460-I1V-_A.pdf Found multiple SM211’s for $360 (2 on EBay) and a used one for $160. https://rvchassisparts.visonerv.com/cgi-bin/md/M121277/s2.pl

Good luck finding all of the leaks! Like many on here, I’ve spent hours underneath our rig chasing and fixing air leaks. I still have a leak on the right rear which puts it in the six pack solenoids that you can’t see the leak. Haven’t gotten motivated to buy the Orings and rebuild the solenoids. Fortunately our rig has a switch for the aux compressor in the console next to the driver’s seat. Like Bill’s 06 Windsor, it takes 4-5 minutes to build press and get to ride height each morning. After 30 seconds our 04 Dynasty was read to go and would stay level for a month.

They are located behind a metal cover near the top of the unit. They are normally close snap disks and you can jumper them closed with a paper clip at the connector after testing that it is open, not closed.

I put in a dual induction cooktop and was surprised how much power it draws waiting to do something…added a power strip to take it offline. Instead of multiple power strips I use the bottom circuit breaker in the inverter box to shut off everything at night. Does require using a 12V outlet to charge the phones. Agree AGMs are worth the extra $$… been using for 15+ years BUT the price of Lithium cells have come down to where I’m building 600AH for $600. This puts them in the AGM price range plus they should give 3X the cycles.

Not that familiar with the OP’s ISB engine and where the lift pump is located. While a bad lift pump on a ISB will result in loss of power, on larger engines it will NOT…on a ISB it runs all the time but only on startup on ISC, ISL, ISX engines for approximately 30 seconds. Putting a $1000 Fass pump on a larger Cummins engine to replace something that runs 30 seconds is not on my list of “upgrades”.

Having modified the S-T-+ bracket, it’s probably 500 ft lbs… had to put a pipe on the 3/4” L handle to get them off. Used the same amount of force to put them back on… not worried about the exact torque.

Hopefully it’s not a transfer switch problem…the two sensors that feed the monitor are in it. Switching to generator power will not make a difference as the sensors are on the output cables.

The OP has AGM batteries that complicates things…you really need to find a SOC chart for your particular AGM batteries, not a generic one and definitely not a lead acid flooded although adding 0.25V gets you close. I like the below chart as it a range of voltages for each SOC acknowledging different AGM batteries have slightly different voltages. Downside it this chart is the voltage is after resting 12 hours further complicating things. *I did find a chart for the OPs Trogen AGM batteries… 2nd chart.

By tightening ever 12V cable connection I could find and cleaning a couple that looked suspicious, I decrease the difference in battery voltage and display by almost 1 V (1.2 to only 0.4 with 100A load and 0.2 difference at 40A load). Without a load there isn’t any difference in the display and at the batteries.

Duplicated your conditions but with 15A of inverting. Voltage dropped from 13.6 to 12.4 once I turned the solar off and 12.6 once I turned the inverter off. My 700 AH of AGMs are probably down to 60% of their capacity and will replace with Lithiums assuming the cells I ordered show up… have cleared US Customs. Would say your readings are normal.

Richard, aesthetic’s doesn’t bother me much but as Jim said ^^^ yours was pretty “gross”. I did the front of my 04 Dynasty using a heat gun and plastic razor blades to get the film off and the citric air freshener to melt the glue. My go to cleaner is now a 50/50 mixture of water and citrus concentrate.

Thought I’d posted this yesterday and Yes, the 2 nozzles are in only one side/fill…a tight fit and not coming out. X4 or is it X5 on overfilling plus been doing it for over a decade. Never had a spill until the “new” rig and haven’t since adding the saw blade. 20 extra gallons equals 1/6th fewer fuel stops and a extra 120 miles before getting fuel. I still put in 12+ hour days, it’s 1500 miles to Co and do it in 2 days… nothing I need to see again in between. I only have to get fuel once/day at the best price having researched before leaving.

Yes, it should be close to 0 volts difference when the engine is running BUT it will only be the difference between the house and engine batteries (0.2 to 1 volt) when engine off and not charging the house batteries assuming the batteries are halfway good…not 12-13 volts.

Does it shut off before spilling fuel? If a station is not busy and if the pump on the other side of the same pump has diesel too, I’ll put 2 nozzles in the same nipple (tight fit and not going to fall out) as I’m usually getting 120+ gallons.

It does have a working BIRD…comment was more for what those without could do to keep going.

If my alternator stops working I’ll wedge the boost switch on and start the generator to keep going. Probably worth making a jumper to tie the 2 battery banks tougher…that way I’ll not need it.