Ivylog

I would start by checking the solenoid ^^^^ and it may be in the Rear R Box. The refrigerator not powering up bothers me unless it’s not a residential… NoCold requires 12V power.

Guess you could block after driving onto ramps (no need for ramps for the tag) for even more clearance but with the rig raised up and the blocked there’s a fair amount of room plus in some places by the axle you can almost sit up. Problem with ramps you still need to lower the rig once on he ramps to see how much clearance you really have…about 5” less.

No, they go side to side on top of each other for 18” (actually 16.5”) high. The picture is the ramps I built out of scrap 2X10 and some plywood. 3’ long down to 25”. The plywood helps to keep the 2X10s from splitting.

I’ve built 600AH 6 months ago for $1200. Have ordered 600AH of cells that will bring the price down to less than $600. …some have said “too go to be true” which I do not disagree with. With the current backlog of ships waiting to be unloaded, no telling when I’ll get the cells. The BMSs I ordered have arrived (shipped by air) and I really don’t need the cells before next June. Here is the link to the thread I started on this:

OK, I admit I’m frugal… I figured the ramps pictured above cost $200 for 8 2X12 10’ long plus they are fairly heavy. You also do not need 2X12 as your tire are not even 10” wide. A 10’ 6X6 costs $40 and each 40” section is manageable and 3 should fit under the hitch after you raise the coach up. With ramps you need to lower the coach down as that’s the clearance you are worried about. With blocks under the hitch the rig is not going to get any lower.

Time to enlarge the deck.

OK, what’s the ceiling height? Any pictures of the entrance?

Lower the floor or deflate the tires??? I was concerned the raised rails would impact getting the Navigator into the MH bay in my house…fortunately it just fits.

Agree it sounds like a multiplex problem BUT I didn’t think a Dynasty got the multiplex system until 07. OP, do you have rocker switches or pads will buttons that light up when pressed? Congrats on a great coach having owned a 04 Dynasty for 14 years.

Doesn’t make any difference which leveling system you have…you’re adjusting the ride height valve/rod The S-10 chassis is 9” front/rear but I went to 10” on the front so the front cap clears curbs better when making tight turns.

Hopefully it might be in the Bville area…would love to drive it. How much of a difference did the Watts make. From the sounds of things if I had the Watts, I could put the cruise on and get up and go to the bathroom.

One person posted a drive axle of 17,000 lbs but mine is 23,000 lbs…a 6,000 lbs difference and why I’d be dragging the hitch. Also, you couldn’t adjust the amount the tag supports.

I don’t see how a coil spring does anything more than support weight in a linear way. If I had coil springs on the back of my rig, the hitch would be dragging the ground in the slightest dip.

Pretty sure the house + batteries cable is a Y to the inverter and the Rear Run Box. Everything the “Salesman” switch controls is powered from the RRB. The alternator charges the engine batteries and once they get to 13.4+/- the BIRD energizes the BigBoy in the RRB connecting the 2 battery bank’s together letter the alternator charge the house batteries…this could be hundreds of AHs that go unmetered. Sorry, but I think you’ll be wasting $40 and the time to put the shunt in the wrong place at the inverter.

Guess I should have said around 2006 Monaco moved the fuel tank on the S-10 chassis (Dynasty and above) to the second bay.

Van, thanks for taking the time to explain BUT there are 4 (guess they are P H Bars), 2 on each side from beside the frame to the H frame that keeps the H frame from twisting in your shaft and wheel example??? Guess my question is: do the 10 bushings in the 5 P H Bars wear over time so the H frame can twist… does the handling start out OK and gets worse as you put miles on the rig?

Around 2006 Monaco started moving the fuel tank from just behind the front axle to the 2nd bay taking a fair amount of weight off the front axle. My 08 Nav’s axle weights are 14, 23, & 10 (60 psi in the tag’s airbags). Not sure why you are using 315s on the tag…I’m using 11Rs.

The shunt needs to go between the batteries and the ground, not at the inverter… you have other things drawing on your batteries than just the inverter and my alternator charges my house batteries. Like Ivan ^^^ I went with a $40 SOC/shunt on my 600AH of Lithium batteries I built. Was able to mount the round indicator in the BR…handier than the basement. Planning on adding another 600AH of Lithiums with another $40 SOC/shunt with the indicator in the BR too. I need to run 120V power to the battery area so I can heat it (light bulb or heater) when it’s below freezing. Will run the indicator’s cable through the same hole in the floor… hopefully one already in it.

I still put in 12+ hour days to-from the West…impossible to do if the rig didn’t handle well. A tag axle rig doesn’t porpoise as much as a non tag which may explain the better handling. The front suspension is the same on tag and non tag rigs…my 04 Dynasty and 08 Navigator do not wander down the road., I love driving them for over 100K miles. Guess I’m still confused. If the amount the pan hard bar moves the H frame side to side results in wandering, what about the changing steering input from the tie rod when the axle moves up/down??? The side to side movement is on a 200+” arm (rigs wheelbase) while the tie rod moves a 12” arm. Yes, the tie rod is longer than the p hard rod but it still affects the steering but not adversely??? Has anyone put a Watts link on a S-10’s front axle? I would love to drive it to see what I’m missing.

I have a 80 gallon tank/pump/long hose in my PU but it had off road diesel in it… I stay legal in what goes in the PU’s tank. I would not use it as a toad (to heavy) or use it to transfer fuel (10 gallons/minute) as I go into the cheapest stations with my rig. The time involved taking the truck to get fuel and then transfer it into the MH exceeds even my frugal nature. OK, I have used it to gas my boats instead of the local marina and then I’ve put high test in one tank of the airplane but these’s a $2 price difference.

ABS is idiot proof braking… you cannot lock the brakes up making it easier to steer around the object you are about to hit. Not having ABS on slick pavement might make a difference but on dry pavement it may actually increase the stopping distance, slightly.

Made a quick trip to Tampa in my PU…580 miles. Didn’t take my TSD card as it’s best price was $3.38 (a good discount from the $3.90 bend over price) as WalMart was $3.32 (2 blocks off I-75) less 16 cents with my credit card… $3.16 so filled up there in both directions.

For the front I made 2 ramps out of scrap lumber I had…I glued and screwed the 3 layers of 2X10 together plus used one layer of plywood. They are 3’ long and have not had any issues driving up on them although I did cut the ends of the 2X10s at a 45. For the rear, once on the ramps, I raise the coach up and put 40” long 6X6 crossways under the hitch, not just the receiver. Won’t post the picture of a wrecker towing a rig by the hitch so we don’t get off topic again. The hitch structure is strong enough to support the back of a S-10 chassis. I don’t like steel on steel supports/Jack stands as it only takes a slight angle to have them kick out.

The only easy adjustment is “toe in” on a solid front axle. On car tires I jack the tire up and mark a line on the tread as I spin the tire so I can measure the distance between… front and back. You want 1/8” in. On truck tires, I find a raised rib or edge on the side of the tire near the tread and measure those distances. I like 3/16 toe in on that big of a tire. Two people can check this in 3 minutes.

I would wrap the metal lever with 3” wide, hopefully black tape, even making it stick out at the top as you wrap multiple layers. If not black tape, paint it black when done. She’ll learn how to use it.