Ivylog

EBay but you shouldn’t need any.

Welcome to the Monaco RV world and you save a few steps by going with a 43’, but it concerns me that you do not know the age of the tires. Like Richard, I tend to go 7 years on the front and 10 years on the rears BUT only if I’ve put all the miles on them , properly inflated for the weight, and use them regularly…sitting is hard on tires. On the rear of these rigs you do not need a 295 tire…often on the front, you need a 315 but not on a 01. I just replaced my rear 295‘s with 11 R 22.5‘s, probably the most common truck tire…6 tires was $2300 installed, out the door… PS: The tires I took off, prematurely, were Michelin‘s because of excessive sidewall cracking.

OP, unless you’ve moved from Fla, you do not not need a B. You can drive a non commercial Motorhome with a regular Fla license. If it’s tagged in a business then yes a B. Makeup oil for the tranny requires the hatch in the bedroom opened… not the one in the closet.

When in storage you only want Lithiums at 50-60% charge. IF the Amp-Echo charge voltage is only 13.15 (Lithiums 50% voltage) they could be left on all the time. Like AGMs, Lithiums do not self discharge like L-A batteries. If you do not dry camp and only go from FHU to FHU CGs, you only need one 12V AGM (no watering) house battery… no need to go Lithiums.

When I built 6-100AH batteries out of 26 cells I matched them up and kept the 2 extra as spares if a cell goes bad. With only 8 cells it will be harder to get as good a match. At the current prices, I really don’t care that a 310AH cell is only 300AH. Over time a BMS will match the cells within the battery. Less than a year ago it cost me $1200 to build 600AH of Lithiums. Today for $1200 I can build 1200+AH.

My shade tree answer was 100 before reading the other posts as it’s not something I’ve ever used a torque wrench on.

Ran nothing but Michelin for 40+ years until they would not stand behind the XRV tires (10+ years ago) that had serious blowout problems. Today there are plenty of good radial tires and Toyo and Hankook being at the top of my list for the rear. Have used Firestone and currently Continental 315s on the front… took off cracking Michelins when I bough the rig 3 years ago. Currently there is a shortage of truck tires so not many choices. Decided I’d rolled the dice on the other 6 Michelin’s long enough and the only guaranteed fresh (2321) 11R22.5 my local guy could get and that he’s been using successfully were Americus, made in Thailand…$2247 out the door for 6 tires or $375 each. Asked if he would try and sell the Michelin’s… NO Way and rolled them to the junk pile shaking his head that I’d run them as long as I had.

Did you read my first post at the beginning?

Boy, this sucks. While I understand how a multiplex system works… have no idea about the chassis system’s components. Any chance the lights (power) in the round trailer plug on the hitch works? Ofen problems with the house multiplex system were poor grounds. I would unhook and plug back in every connection I could find on the components, making sure it was firmly re-connected after checking for any corrosion.

Usually in the front run box.

While 200+ degrees on level ground seems high, we’re you in a high headwind situation? Would explain the poorer mpg.

This will happen when running the generator while traveling…2 charging sources and it’s normal. Yes, putting a load will lower the voltage and make the warning light go out.

Yes, above the starter and a leak will put a small puddle on a hard surface.

In Deland after New year for 3 months…assume the Ohio location closed then as it’s a father-son operation. A 07 Dynasty is likely to have a 07 engine (unlike other models) and I can guarantee a 08 Dynasty will have a ISL 07-08 particular filter engine.

My 08 Navigator only has the house multiplex system. The Kongsburg chassis multiplex system started in late 08 and 09 which is the OPs headlight problem, not the house lights, slides, AquaHot. By now any issues with the house multiplex (often a loose ground) have been resolved and parts and service is available but mainly by M&M in Ohio and Deland, FLa during the winter. In 3 years I’ve had one problem which was fixed by unplugging the switch board. I did have M&M do a backup of my multiplex in Deland for $175…cheap insurance. This enables them to program a new switch board (so it controls the same things) and it’s then just plug in the new board… there are 13 in my rig. I would not let the house multiplex be a deal breaker, but I would for the chassis multiplex. I would also want a 06 or older engine… my 08 has a 06 engine. I would add a 600-650HP ISX engine to the list of things you do not want!

This ^^^ got me to thinking as I already have a switch that lets me disable the BigBoy when dry camping… it’s about a 4 amp draw all the time which adds up. Bought a $5 programmable timer that I’ll add to that circuit so I can cycle the charging of the house batteries similarly to the $172 BIM. 1PCS Multifunction Digital Time Infinite Delay Switch Timer Relay Module DC 5V / 12V / 24V If you go to the Amazon link below, at the bottom of the description there are several videos of what you can do with one. https://www.amazon.com/UCTRONICS-Programmable-Multifunction-Segment-Automatic/dp/B07BT32T1M/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=1PCS+Multifunction+Digital+Time+Infinite+Delay+Switch+Timer+Relay+Module+DC+5V+%2F+12V+%2F+24V&qid=1632857777&sr=8-8 As for a alternator not fully charging a LifePo4…13.6 is 100% which is well within a alternator output voltage. Table below is for a LifePo4 12V battery. And to further hijack my own thread… when not using Lithium batteries for several months, it’s better to have them at 50% (13.15V) so the lithium anode doesn’t degrade.

I’m not convinced that the alternator is going to put out its full 200A just because it’s charging Lithium instead of AGM. I have a dedicated 100A charger for my 600AH of Lithium and the most it’s ever put out is 67 amps into them… 11 amps/battery even though each BMS is rated 60 amps. When they get near fully charged, the amps decrease as each BMS takes its battery out of the loop… all the way down to 6 amps. When I build 2- 300amp batteries I’m not going with an expensive 300A BMS for each battery. 150A would probably be enough, although I’ve bought 2-200A, as I can’t charge 300A and the micro (biggest amps) draws less than 200A.

The pressure adjusting housing was leaking on the end of the pump. Removed (4 screws) and stretched a small O ring around it and reinstalled. Changed the adjustment in the amount the O ring moved the housing out and all is well.

Contrary to the advice on IRV2, (VIP smart wheel) you have the Konsburg chassis multiplex system which is no longer supported. Diagrams above look to be for that system but it could take someone fairly smart hours to figure it all out. I would read up on this post as the people in OR are probably your best source on the Konsburg system. https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/smart-steering-electronics-need-help-429296-3.html

I have 880 AH of AGMs and will run the generator for an hour in the morning before getting on the road. That still puts a good load on the Alternator so I put a remote temperature probe on it. Unfortunately I cannot monitor charging amps from the drivers seat, just voltage, but 185 is the highest temp I’ve seen in a engine compartment that runs 280 (180 not 280) degrees. I’m not going to use a DC-DC buffer to start with and if the alternator doesn’t get hotter than 195 charging the Lithiums, I will not add one.

Supposedly 30 days… will see and post. Building your own battery is not that hard and even if your charger doesn’t have a Lithium profile, using a AGM setting will get you to 90%. Agree if you are a 50 amp to 50 amp CG person going Lithium, even at lead/acid prices is probably not worth the DIF effort although like AGM, corrosion is not a issue.

I figure nothing ventured, nothing gained… finally got payment confirmation of the 310AH cells. Vito, I don’t need a WiFi smart BMS so one that requires some soldering. I did but a monitoring system (below) and will buy another one when I DIY these cells. AiLi Voltmeter Ammeter Voltage Current Meter Voltmeter Ammeter 100V 350A Caravan RV Motorhome 999 AH 8-80V,0-350A Purchased 1x.Last purchased on May 19, 2021 $44.00$44.00

In another post I mentioned I’d built 600AH of Lithium batteries for $1200 plus 15 hours of my time making them price competitive to AGMs but 5X the life. Searched AliExpress and found 8-280AH cells for $358…560AH of batteries for probably $500…90 cents/AH. Today I searched again and found 8-310AH cells for $346. Add $84 for 2 BMS (200A is big enough) and $50 in cables… 620AH for $580…91 cents making them as cheap as lead/acid but probably 10X the life. Sorry but the address I copied for the cells did not paste but searching the Ali site you should be able to find them. Below is a 8 month old Video on making your own batteries. A BMS that requires soldering the cables on is only $40.

So working backwards your steer are 18,500, drive 24,000, and tag 15,500… more or less. So the tag is probably putting 3,000 lbs on the steers so the drive is legal at 24,000. Time to put the tag in front of the drive like they were years ago.

Normally you may be starting with some air in the system… mine takes for ever to build if I don’t increase the rpms to 1200. I do a brake test once the compressor unloads at 135psi… release the parking brake and put the brakes on and hold for 30 seconds. Pressure should lower but then remain the same while holding the brakes on. After releasing, the psi should not change for 30-45 seconds. If doing a CDL test you hold for a minute but allowed a 4 psi drop.