Ivylog

Front are the same as the back… air hole may be different requiring reusing the bushing. There’s a check valve that’s supposed to stop the air from going out… not sure where. I carry one of the below as a spare.

May not help but the door has 2 spring loaded pins, in the front door jam, that provides the power to the door lock. Make sure they move freely and come out when the door is open.

Another member with a 08 Camelot posted this picture… in plain sight and easy to replace. On my 04 Dynasty and 08 Navigator it’s between the radiators and transmission (driver’s side) underneath.

“There are 2 on each universal joint” I know they exist but have never seen 2 in 60 years.

Step cover on our 08 Navigator is electric and not part of the multiplex system…simple rocker switch. Assume the fuse will be in the FRB. 04 Dynasty was air.

Your skin replaces itself every month.

30 zerks??? I have 8 on the front axle and 3 on the driveshaft that I grease every 10-15 K miles… the 4 on the tag!s drum brakes get a single shot so 15 total. On my 04 Dynasty I never got any water when draining the air tanks over 14 years…air dryer must really work well. Other than initially, 08 Navigator is the same but only 3 years. The 03 Dynasty schedule above is probably 3X what I do.

I had hoped to put 11R22.5 Hercules Stone Guards on the back of my 08 Navigator but they were not available. Settled on fresh Americus 2121-2321 tires.

Bridgestone/Firestone are good tires. I’ll try one more time. You do not need 295s on the rear…11R22.5 are the same diameter and have plenty of load carrying and cost $400 or less installed.

Working items are on the engine batteries. What’s the voltage of the house batteries at the batteries?

These things aren’t that bad…hose real and impact tools??? I have to add air to my tires a MAX of 2 times a year, usually just once. I use the Type C quick connection under front cap for the air and a cheap 25’ plastic spiral hose for the front tires. Have a 25’ rubber air hose to add for the back tires. I also use the rubber hose to supply propane to the fire pit or a single burner stove. Fortunately I have a compartment (usually for house batteries and not the one easy to see below) just behind the tag axle that holds the majority of my mechanic’s tools and a 20T jack. Tool box is your normal top lift out tray with a area below. Instead of a impact I have a good 20V drill and a smaller 4.8V drill/screwdriver that gets used the most. Lots of screws involved in most projects. With 8000+ lbs of CCC, it’s impossible to overload a S-10 chassis, but you do need to load heavy items in the rear.

Hopefully there’s not a pun in there. I doubt the OP supported his rig before tightening the 4 screws and taking the pictures. Fortunately he didn’t loosen them as there’s only 8” of clearance when aired down.

Even though the “new” SpeedCo is not as RV friendly, it’s still a good alternative for oil changes. No need to take up the shop foreman’s time or talks to the men doing the work…pretty sure they can handle it.

I do much the same with my toad that weighs 4200 lbs. The front axle weight increases almost 350 lbs when lifting from the ball… 8%. My swag based on the longer overhang to wheel base is 4,000lbs extra on the front axle. No, I wouldn’t tow very far and would increase psi to max in the tires. My point in posting the first picture is the hitch structure on a S-10 chassis is massive, even going to 15K in 09 (no structure changes) provided you didn’t lift the tag.

By being 40” long you are supporting straight up to the rails on the S-10 chassis like the OP has. Have no idea how strong the hitch is on a R8RR chassis. And to add fuel to the fire, I would have my rig towed like the below… no driveshaft removal or cap damage.

“Lake Township Police Chief Mark Hummer said that Brian Collins, 33, was working under a motor home in the driveway of a private residence when the jacks apparently shifted killing him.” I do not like metal jack stands on a metal frame^^^^. I support the back of my Navigator by raising it all the way up and then putting 40” long 6X6s crossways underneath the hitch, not the receiver, as the hitch is strong enough to support the back of the MH. In this situation I would lower the back onto these supports before working underneath. OP, after bleeding all the air out I would undo the four screws and see if there happens to be a O-ring in there, instead of a gasket. New valves are not that expensive.

Good luck finding a matching oval hole new rim as they are very scarce… going used from a RV salvage yard is about your only choice.

Don’t do what I did, Amish cooling unit, new control board, extra fans, more insulation, you name it, I tried it… what a waste of money. I bought into the “no residential for a dry camping” which is NOT true. It takes 1 extra battery to power a residential refrigerator, IF you dry multiple days the. 2 is better. I had to take the drivers window out to get a Whirlpool 21 in that was almost a perfect fit… 1/2” too tall. Required lowering the floor but saved the large drawer below. BEST MOD EVER and I’ve done quite a few… 04 Dynasty. Unfortunately some of the pictures are no longer available in my DIY install. https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/29110550/print/true.cfm

Take a hacksaw blade and cut the nylon down to the top of the aluminum threads. Use the tip of a good knife to pry one side of the nylon threads up.

I considered not replacing until June 2022… before our next big trip. Like Woody ^^^ tires are in short supply and I do not see it getting better. Would have preferred Toyo or Hankook but not readily available so went with what my tire guy recommended… Americus, made in Thailand. In 7 years it will be interesting to see if I replace them or go for 10 years. By then there will be more info on how good a tire they are.

Powering the headlights and clearance lights should be fairly easy so you can go on with your life as full timers. M&M got into the Intellitec multiplex repair because they had a customer with problems. Hopefully they will do the same with the chassis multiplex…sounds like they are working on it.

I would add a row of high amp 12V switches and find the large wires (after the multiplex relays) that go to the lights you need and power them from the new switches. The brake lights probably work when you supply the ground, so no switch needed for them, just power to the circuit. I would just power the wipers on when needed and use RainX so one speed will be enough.

I can run all 3…04 Dynasty and 08 Navigator although I do not remember all 3 on at the same time as it doesn’t get that cold in SE Fla. Some units have load shedding with the dryer.

It’s not as simple as just putting a new unit on the roof …you have to replace all of units plus a new thermostat. Karma may work on a 98 Jeep. i’ve been using propane ever since R12 went away and I can see, in a car in an accident, having propane fan the flames might not be a good thing.

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